Above Ground Pool Maintenance Guide

aboveground-pool-maintenanceWhen I became a proud owner of an aboveground pool, I had no clue about how to maintain a pool. Luckily, I just started a career at In The Swim and found all the help I needed!

Aboveground pools are no different than inground pools, although the equipment is usually easier to operate. At a minimum, all pools need regular cleaning, daily filtering and a constant chlorine level.

Cleaning

Keeping an above ground pool clean is not much less work than cleaning an inground pool – and the tools and techniques are the same. If you have trees and a breeze, you’ll need to do skimming, vacuuming and brushing.

Skimming: The wall skimmer will get some floating debris, but a wind storm will be too much for it to handle. Attach a leaf skimmer to the pool pole and pull it across the surface. A bag type Leaf Rake works best when you have lots of leaves, and you can use it to scoop stuff from the pool floor, too. A flat skimmer net can be used for a quick skimming of a few leaves.

Vacuuming: You can set-up an automatic pool vacuum by connecting suction type cleaners into the skimmer, or by dropping in a robotic pool cleaner. But when leaves are really deep, or for algae blooms, you may want to vacuum it the old fashioned way. To vacuum an aboveground pool, put the vac head on the pole, and connect the vac hose. Put it in the pool and then hold the other end of the hose over the return fitting to fill the hose with water. Push it into the hole below the skimmer basket and now you’re vacuuming ~

Brushing: All pools need to be brushed, and many people could stand to brush their pools a little more often. It helps circulation, and removes invisible films and the small beginnings of algae blooms. I brush the pool once per week, usually from inside the pool, which makes it easier to get the walls. Be sure your pool brush is in good condition – when the bristles wear down and the edges get rough, it could damage your pool liner.

Filtering

Run the pool pump every day for 8-12 hours (at least). If you miss even a single day, the water can turn cloudy and green. For best results, use a pool pump timer, backwash when the pressure gauge tells you to, and clean the baskets often.

Pump Timer: For aboveground pool pumps that plug into an outlet, the easiest timer to use is a plug-in pool pump timer. They are also the cheapest pool timer to buy and install. Set your clock to run about 10 hours daily, or longer for hot periods, or when the water looks like it  needs more filtering.

Backwashing: Sand filters and DE pool filters have a valve that is turned to reverse the water flow through the filter, which flushes out all of the dirt that the filter has trapped. Do this when the pressure gauge is 8-10 pounds higher than the clean, starting pressure. A cartridge filter is not backwashed; instead the pump is shut off and the filter is removed and hosed clean – again, when the pressure gauge has risen 5-10 lbs, or if the water flow drops off noticeably.

Baskets: You have a skimmer basket and a pump basket. The skimmer basket will need more frequent cleaning, but don’t forget to empty the pump basket after vacuuming or about once a week. When replacing the pump basket, be sure that it’s positioned properly and the pump lid is screwed on tightly.

Chemicals

To maintain your pool water, you need to test the water a few times per week, to be certain that the chlorine level is constant and consistent, and to see if you need to adjust pool water balance.

Testing Water: Either test strips or a test kit can be used, as long as you use it! I use the 7-way test strips most of the time, but I also have a dropper type test kit that I also use.  They agree with each other most of the time. Liquid kits are more accurate than test strips, especially if you are a bit color-blind!

Chlorine Levels: Use chlorine tablets in a floater to keep a constant level of chlorine in the pool. At least 1.0 ppm – around the clock, is important to prevent anything green from growing. The minute you let your guard down, algae and bacteria will begin to take over. Use granular shock (powdered chlorine) to boost chlorine quickly if it drops near zero, or if algae is spotted.

Water Balance: Aside from testing chlorine levels, check pH, Total Alkalinity once or twice per week. Add pool pH or alkalinity when levels are too low or too high. On a monthly basis, check the Calcium Hardness and Cyanuric Acid levels, which are slower to change but important to your overall water balance.

Protecting Your Investment

An aboveground pool can cost a lot of money – protect it from damage to the pool walls, pool liner and the pool equipment and it can last for decades.

Pool Walls: Anything bumping into the outside walls of an aboveground pool can dent or crimp a steel wall panel, more easily than you may think! Kids on bicycles and tricycles, or using the pool as a baseball backstop can damage the walls, as can standing or sitting on the top rail of the wall. Tree limbs can really do a number on pool walls, even small branches.

Pool Liner: Protect your pool liner by keeping good water balance, and by not running your chlorine level super high all the time, which can make the vinyl brittle. Holes or punctures to a liner are caused by all sorts of things, but especially non-pool toys and street clothes. Most dogs will not damage a pool liner, buuut… you never know.

Pool Equipment: The pool equipment – pump, filter, heater; is made to work outdoors and made to run around the clock; pretty sturdy stuff. It can be damaged by falling limbs or flooding, but rain and snow won’t normally hurt. Pool equipment can also be dangerous; these pressurized filters, electric pumps and gas heaters – so do be careful, OK?

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Sheryl Sollis
InTheSwim Staff Blogger

74 thoughts on “Above Ground Pool Maintenance Guide

  1. what can I use when the pool becomes cloudy and slimy?

    • HI Melly, I would first balance the pH level to around 7.3, and then shock the pool with 3 lbs shock per 10000 gals. 2 days later, add a dose of clarifier. During the process, run the filter 24/7. Afterwards, run it longer than you think necessary. If your filter is small and/or tired or has a worn out filter cartridge, that’s a big part of the problem.

  2. Jan Caster

    Our pool is 14×33. We got a lime green color in the water, added 3 lbs of 4-1 Shock. It cleared the green, but the water is not clear. Added a bottle, 16oz., of clarity. Still not clear. What’s next?

    • Davy Merino

      Hi Jan, next is to recheck water balance measurements and be sure that calcium, alkalinity, pH and chlorine levels are all good, and then keep filtering – 24/7 if possible. You are on the right track – shock it, then add clarifer 1-2 days later, and keep running the filter. Smaller filters just take longer, and in some cases, if the filter cartridge or filter sand is old, it can really struggle – If it drags on for weeks, try new filter media. Keep the pool clean, keep the chlorine high, keep running the filter. You can redose with clarifier, being careful not to over-dose, in 4-5 days after the original dose.

  3. Bobby Rutherford

    I have a 27ft A/G Blue World Pool I cannot get the water clear.The water is green I ‘ve cleaned and treated with bleach and a bag of salt and filtered ph levels are good basket/filters are clean. This is a fresh water pool. What can I do ?

    • Hi Bobby, for green water, you just need to add enough chlorine (with a suitably low pH of 7.2-7.4), until it turns blue, before your very eyes, within minutes. If it stays green, keep adding more chlorine. Salt won’t do anything, unless you have a salt chlorinator, aka salt generator, aka salt system. It just adds TDS to the water, and makes … salty water! 🙂

  4. Elizabeth Cooney

    Hi! I have an above ground pool that this morning appeared crystal clear. I put a chlorine tablet in the floater and in a couple of hours the water is green. HELP!!!! What have I done? Could it be the metal in my water? I have a personal well which has three different filtration systems on it.

    • Have you checked the chlorine level? 1 tablet is not much, and it takes a few days to release enough chlorine to control algae. My guess is that it is too little, too late. Check the pH level, and be sure that it is 7.2-7.4, and then shock the pool with granular or liquid chlorine, enough to turn the water back to blue, and then run the filter continuously until clear.

      • Elizabeth Cooney

        Thank you for your prompt response. The green color is not algae. It seems that it was an almost instant chemical reaction with the iron, that exists naturally in well water here in Maine, and the chlorine. I called a local pool store and they recommended a mineral eliminator which I have put in the pool while running the filter over night. Still green this morning, but have hope that it will clear soon.

        • Ah OK, yes high levels of iron or copper can make an intensely bright green color. Sequestering agent (aka Stain & Scale chemicals) are used to absorb it back into solution. Culator is a product that is unique that it is not a sequestering agent, but a packet that actually absorbs metals. If your pool is still green after another day, give another dose of the ‘eliminator’. Also be sure that pH and alkalinity levels are good, and don’t shock the pool until those metals are reabsorbed.

  5. We don’t have a skimmer on our Intex type pool, so I’d like to know how high the water level should be. Will it hurt the pump if it’s above the water return? Thanks!

    • Rebecca, the water level should always be above the return. Intex pools water level is generally about 4-6″ from the very top. It can go higher, no worries, but keep it 1-2″ from the top by siphoning water, or opening a release valve as needed, when rains have overfilled the pool.

  6. Debbie Ruggles

    I cannot keep the rust stain from coming back.
    I get red of it and as soon as shock it it comes back.
    How can I have Clear water and no rust stain

    • Debbie – if you have a vinyl liner pool, the issue is likely high iron content in the water. If you have a plaster pool with a small rust spot, that is likely a piece of rebar or a rebar tie wire beneath the plaster that has begun to rust.

  7. I am brand new to pools- have been reading the questions here…I need to know specific chemicals to adjust the ph and such….

  8. I built my own pool as an experiment- turned out so well that now I need to maintain it. My question is, if I buy a small pump (enough to circulate my 5,000 gallons) can I drape the hoses over the side of the pool? I dont want to put holes in my pallet wood or liner.

    • Hi Cindi, sure you can do that! I have done that before on inground pools that had complete underground plumbing failure. My only concern is the hazard of suction entrapment, or someone getting sucked into the suction line. But, with a small pump, the danger would be low. However, I would put a Tee fitting on the end of the suction pipe, pulling from the floor of the pool, and place two small grates on either side of the Tee, like Hayward SP1026. If you decide that a skimmer would be a worthwhile installation, ABG pool skimmers are only about $25, and easy to install for a handy person like yourself!

  9. Abel Vasquez

    I just bougth an Above Ground 118” x 78”x 26” Pool and i have no idea about how to maintain the water so is always well balance for swimming.

    I plan to use the pool at least every weekend, max 4 people.

    Could you guide me on how to applie the correct maintain for my pool?

    For the moment i have a pump of 1000 hp, but dont know if only power it up when i use the pool or i’ll have to power it up every day regardless i used the pool or no?

    Also, i have a floater for chlorine and a cover for the pool.

    thanks you in advance, for your help

    • Hi Abel, yes to running the filter every day – even if no one is using it, the pool needs to filter every day, for at least 8 hours, and better at 12 hours. Some folks run it 24/7. Use the floater with chlorine tablets, using enough tablets to keep chlorine at a constant and consistent 1 to 2 ppm. Check the pH level twice per week and adjust if needed, to raise or lower the pH level, so it stays in the range of 7.2-7.4. Every two weeks, or if water quality deteriorates (algae, cloudy water), shock the pool to raise the chlorine level above 10 ppm, using granular or liquid chlorine, and following dosage instructions on the label. Use your pool cover when not using the pool, to preserve chemicals and keep the pool clean. Finally, enjoy!

  10. Jodi Malcolm

    I need a pool and spa person. Cant find one to do my above ground pool. West Bountiful Utah

    • Hi Jodi, for many pool repair or installation jobs, a Handyman service or even HVAC or plumbers, or college kids on summer break could manage the job. Need not be a pool person for many jobs, just someone who can watch a video, read an owner’s manual and get ‘er done!

  11. Kristen Roden

    Is a 3 inch 4 in 1 chlorine tablet in a floater too much for a 10×30? Do I need to shock it or should the chlorine be fine?

    • hi Kristen, your test kit or strips will tell you if 1-tablet is enough to raise the chlorine level to between 1 to 2 ppm. If low, add another one. You should still shock the pool, because some microbes (from poop) can resist normal chlorine levels, and other harmful bacteria can survive for extended periods, making water unsanitary. Especially in pools with small filters (like yours), shock will keep your swimmers healthy.

  12. I have installed a 18 x 48 above ground pool We have filled it with water then put the shock in. When shock was added it turned a green color, What needs to be done now to get it clear again. We have well water.

    • Davy Merino

      Hi Debbie, that is strange, but likely what happened is a green metal (likely copper) was forced out of solution when the water underwent the shock treatment… to avoid that, be sure water is fully balanced before shocking, and more importantly, use a sequestering agent to keep minerals and metals in solution, during strong chemical reactions, like shocking the pool. Our Super Stain Away or Jacks Magic Blue Stuff, or Metal Free are all good options. Follow label for dosage – usually a high initial dose (16 oz or less for your pool), then weekly or bi-monthly small doses of a few ounces. Used regularly, it will keep the metals from coming out of solution again, and in your case, should absorb most of the color back into solution, along with running your filter non-stop, perhaps using a clarifier may help as well. I could also recommend the Pleatco Pre-Filter, used on your garden hose, to remove metals, etc from your fill water.

  13. I have a small sand filter for my pool. Completely drained and refilled. I am confident with the rest of the pool and chemicals but not sure what to do with the filter. Do I replace all the sand or is the sand from last year still good?

    • Davy Merino

      For small sand filters, those typically found on aboveground pools, the sand may not last as long as for larger inground pools. If your filter has less than 100 lbs of sand, it might be good to change it every 1-2 years. As an alternative, or to stave off a sand change, you can use a Filter Cleaner, to remove oils and scale build-up in the sand. There is nothing that tells you by looking at it, that sand is bad (unless you use a microscope to see the wear/tear), but you can gauge the time to change the sand, when backwashing is needed more frequently, and the water just doesn’t get as clear as before…

  14. Hi, we purchased a home in January that had an above ground pool—not the reason we purchased the house. That being said, the Coleman 16′ x 48″ steel pool was frozen (which it was when we saw it in November) and the cover was in the bottom. We are pretty sure they didn’t drain anything related to the pump so it may have to be replaced. The weather is now in the 50’s and of course, water is not frozen anymore. But we know nothing about what we’re supposed to do between now and then to make it usable in the next 4 months when it’s June. What should we put in the pool now or later to get it prepared and make sure there’s nothing dangerousin the water because our grandkids will be using it.

    • Davy Merino

      Hi Jo; the first thing to do, when appropriate, is to remove the cover and if it is laying in the bottom, finding the leak in the pool liner, or replacing the liner if needed. Normally, pools are about 3/4 full or more during winter. Also inspect the pump, filter, and pipes – looking for any cracks, or add water to see if they leak. later you will chlorinate the water, keeping balanced pH, and run the filter every day, to be sure the water is safe for kids. Also consider safety pool ladders, and other means to prevent use by curious kids when not supervised.

      • Thank you! How do we chlorinate or know what to buy and how do we know if it’s got a balanced pH and is safe.

        • Davy Merino

          Hi Jo, you chlorinate (constant and consistent) using 3″ chlorine tablets, which slowly dissolve when placed into a chlorinator, which is installed after the filter – you can also use a floating chlorinator. Every few weeks, or as needed, you may “shock” the pool, with granular chorine, to raise chlorine level to 10-20x normal levels, to remove bather waste, chlorine byproducts, algae and bacteria. Chlorine works best and swimmers are more comfortable with a good pH level, in the world range of 7.2 – 7.6 – and you will need to make adjustments periodically, using ph up or ph down chemicals, to keep pH in range. To do all this, you will need a good test kit too, to check chlorine and ph levels, a few times per week. I like Taylor test kits, K2005, or K1725(?), the “Taylor Troubleshooter” kit…

  15. Caroline

    Hi, I just purchased a house (yesterday was closing) that has an above ground pool (I did not buy the house for the pool :)). Unfortunately, I have never owned a pool, and to make matters worse, it’s mid-winter. The pool does not have a cover, but more importantly, when I arrived to the house the water is FROZEN. I’m not sure what to do? (I live in TN – just some background info to understand weather.) Any suggestions??

    • Davy Merino

      Hi Caroline, if the pool was not winterized, there could be some damage. Water freezes inside of all pools during winter, but that’s not the problem. When water freezes inside of the pumps, filter, heater, and pvc pipes, they can crack. Check to see if the drain plugs have been removed on the bottom of the pump and filter, and if the skimmer and wall return lines have been plugged with winter plugs. It not, remove the equipment drain plugs and put blankets over the equipment, after inspecting for any specific cracks to pipes, valves, equipment, etc. If the pool was winterized, then rest easy. Next year buy a pool cover for winter. If it was not winterized, expect repair bills of $500-$2500, possibly more.

  16. Hi. I have a 8feet round steel frame pool. I’m using a sandfilter pump and running it 10h a day. My problem is the debree/sand at the bottom. What is the best automatic cleaner be to install with the pump?

    • Davy Merino

      Hi Leandra, I’m not sure that any pool cleaner would work with the standard filter/pump on an 8 ft pool – they just don’t have enough power in most cases, to operate a pool cleaner effectively. However, if you have changed the original system to a larger filter with bigger pump, then something like the Intex pool cleaner or the Hayward aqua critter cleaner may be a good choice.

  17. I just purchased a used 30’x 54″ above ground pool. Should I set it up and get it ready for the winter, or can I store it util spring?

    • Davy Merino

      Hi Cheryl, if you haven’t installed it yet, I would wait for next spring. If you are itching to get started, you can spend the fall prepping the area for installation. Most locations need quite a bit of work, to remove 2″ of turf, soil, rocks, and put down 2″ of sand, and to keep water away from the pool, it’s a good idea to install french drains around the perimeter topped with gravel, and some yards need some grading, reshaping of the land to be sure that a heavy storm will not flood – up against the pool, all points should drain away from the pool. You also will need to plan for power, you need a dedicated GFCI outlet and even better, a small sub-panel installed, next to the equipment location (pump/filter/heater), and perhaps a nice concrete pad to set the equipment on, adjacent to the power supply. And if the nearest hose spigot is too far, consider trenching a new water supply line, with a spigot and garden hose available next to the pool. Also plan for pool safety. Lots to do, even before you put up the pool…

      • Thank you for the useful information! I like the idea of working on the process a little at the time instead of rushing through it. I was concerned because some were telling me that if I waited to set the pool up then I’d have to buy a new liner because it would not store well.

        • Davy Merino

          Hi – yes no worries about the liner, store it indoors if you can though, just the liner, or above freezing temps. Cover everything else with a tight tarp if it’s not inside the garage or somewhere covered.

  18. Lawanna Andrus

    Hi, WE just installed a steel sided 24 x 54 ft AGP. We are having to fill it with our well since we live out in the country. It is filled almost to the point of us being able to hook up the skimmer and pump. What I need to know is do we need to add anything to the water while it is filling. The water looks a little dirty and we want to make sure to do this thing right. What do I need to do to make the water clear and nice. I don’t have a clue as to what to add or how to take care of the water since the pool is up. PLEASE Help.

    • Davy Merino

      Hi Lawanna, for well filled pools, using a stain and scale chemical can be helpful, to prevent stains and water discoloration, so treat with Metal Free or Stain Away, or other ‘sequestering agent’, a group of chemicals called stain & scale. Use maintenance doses during summer, following treatment guidelines, because it degrades over time. Then, onto water balance. The correct levels are: pH: 7.2-7.4, alkalinity 80-120 ppm, Calcium hardness 180-220 ppm, and cyanuric acid 20-50 ppm. The most important of the five is pH and cyanuric acid, but low alkalinity or calcium can also cause water problems. Use pool shock every few weeks, about 2 lbs to kill anything that your chlorine tablets have missed. Use enough chlorine tablets to produce a consistent and constant 1-2 ppm free chlorine level. Which is usually about 1 tablet per 5000 gallons, more when the water is warm and used often. Your test kit will tell you if you are using the right amount…

  19. I have an 8′ x 16′ Intex above ground pool with an upgraded sand filter that I run for 12 hours a day.
    I have everything pretty well balanced and am adding about 2oz of chlorine granules that I dilute in a bucket before adding to the pool every week to keep the chlorine level where it should be. The pool is about 2800 gallons.
    I was told not to use a floating chlorinator by the pool supply store near me, but I’m thinking they were wrong.
    If I add a floater, is there a good kind and any idea how many chlorine tabs I would use at a time?

    • Davy Merino

      Hi Tom, totally disagree with the store, a tablet floater will deliver a constant and consistent level of chlorine, which granules cannot do. Any pool chlorine floater will do – there are dozens on the market. YOu don’t need a big one, because you may only need to use 2 tablets at a time, and then set the openings to release enough to produce a constant 1-2 ppm of chlorine in the water. They will last about a week, and then just pop in 2 more tablets!

  20. Tammy Mansfield

    I have a Coleman 18′ pool and we have been using the pool shock treatment. We are getting a black algae on the bottom of the pool what do I need to do?

    • Hi, that’s not good news! if it is indeed black algae, it can be a never ending battle. Sometimes blue/green algae will pose as black algae, but it easier to kill. OK, here’s what you do.
      1. Start keeping the pH around 7.2 and alkalinity around 80 ppm, if that’s different than now.
      2. Shock the pool very heavily, with 4 gallons of 5% or 6% Bleach, add it all at once.
      3. Brush the pool, with a nice brush (buy a good one if needed) and pole. Twice, very aggressively.
      4. Run the filter all night, Brush again in the morning and clean filter. Check pH and adjust downward if needed (bleach has a very high pH level).

      After treatment, dive in the pool with a mask to inspect the algae heads. Try to brush them off, or gently scrape off any remaining heads. Vacuum them out of the pool completely, and brush/vacuum until the pool sparkles without any remaining algae. Replace the filter cartridge, and any soft material items used in the pool, like pool noodles, lounge chairs, sponge balls. Many aggressive algae species come from lakes and oceans, so burn all your swimsuits (!) if so, or just try not to use them also in the pool. Black algae has distinct raised heads, very thick and hard to penetrate, and once the heads are scraped off, chlorine needs to penetrate the root immediately, before it ‘skins over’. True black algae may be only a plaster pool problem, where it can really put down roots, you may have a large-head variety of blue green, and not black, consider yourself lucky if so…

  21. Christine van

    My cyanauric acid says apply through the Skinner, but my Intex 20’x48′ doesn’t have one…so what is the best way to add it?

    • Hi, you can just pour cyanuric into the pool, but for vinyl I would suggest pouring it into a bucket of clean pool water, stirring to dissolve, and then pour directly into the pool.

  22. Hi. I am so glad I found your site. We recently bought a 15 by 36 bestway above ground pool. We read so much info that keeps giving us different suggestions. Our neighbor says they use [the local home store brand] so currently that is what we are only using. I don’t that’s helping enough. I notice there are little white, hazy floaty stuff coming up. It’s not green, yet, thank goodness. I do not know how to clean the filter in the pump. All the water starts rising and gushing out. I don’t know what to do and go about that. Is it supposed to gush out that way? By reading what you posted it gives me an idea what to do but would like to hear from you. Thank you.

    • Hi, using liquid chlorine bleach is fine, and produces the same active chlorine as tablets or granular, but the problem is that it gets added only daily, or less, which creates peaks and valleys of chlorination. A better solution for consistent and constant chlorination is to use tablets in a chlorine floater, for daily chlorination, and use liquid bleach or granular for shocking the pool (raising chlorine very high) for those times when the water looks bad, or you forget to add tablets, or the filter breaks, or you spot algae, etc. For the filter, in order to clean the filter, you should have two valves, one on each side of the filter, to shut off the water flow, so you can clean the cartridge. If you don’t have valves, you can plug the skimmer and wall return fitting with a suitable plug, or anything that will fit in the hole to stop the water flow, even a rag stuffed in there… Remove the filter and hose clean – should be done weekly or so…

  23. Johanna A

    Hello I’ve just used a test strip that was givin to me and I’m unsure of the reading when it comes to the chlorine (which is what im using in my pool). Can a test strip that says free chlorine (FC)/ Bromine ppm read the chlorine levels in my pool? Because to my understanding bromine is a lil diffent than chlorine. Any ways my results were 0/0 what needs to be done? Thank u for your time.

    • Hi Johanna, you are using the correct strip if it says it test free chlorine/bromine. The test for both is the same, only bromine is 2.25x heavier than chlorine, so the reading is always 2.25xx darker for bromine. If you use a chlorine test kit to test for bromine, one would just need to multiply the result x 2.25 to obtain the equivalent bromine reading. Now for your case, since they both read 0/0, that indicates no Free Chlorine in the water, so you better add some fast. Add 1 lb of pool shock per 15,000 gallons to raise it fast, and fill a floater or chlorinator with tablets to take over in a day or two – use enough tablets to maintaini a consistent and constant 1-2 ppm. If it drops to zero or close to zero, add some granular or liquid chlorine (bleach) to the pool to raise the level quickly to 3-4 ppm. A full shock treatment of 10ppm is generally used monthly, or as needed, to kill bacteria, algae or other things, seen and unseen. Also important is a pH level in the 7.2-7.6 range. If too high, chlorine works very poorly. Also important is stabilizer for a sunny outdoor pool, if too low chlorine burns off too fast, if too high, chlorine is very sluggish. maintain cyanuric acid levels 20-50 ppm range.

  24. hello, we just purchased a bestway steel pro above-ground pool and we don’t know how much chemicals to put in the pool. i filled it up yesterday and i don’t have a pool cover, they’re sold out. PLS HELP!

    • Davy Merino

      Hi Raiven, what you need (fast) are some chlorine tablets, about 10 lbs to start, and a floater. We can have you those items in 1-day in most cases. Secondly, you need a test kit to check pH and chlorine, see our Basic Test Kit category, I like the Taylor Troubleshooter, or the 7-way test strips. You will likely also want to use clarifier and algaecide, buy 1 qt of each, and add following the label instructions, each week, to help your filter, and provide back-up to the chlorine. Put 1-3 tablets into the floater, and release into the pool. Use enough tablets to maintain a consistent 2 ppm of chlorine on your test kit. When the tablets dissolve, replace them quickly, or chlorine drops rapidly to zero, then all hell breaks loose 🙂 . If that happens though, bring the chlorine up quickly with 1/2 gallon of liquid bleach, or dissolve 1/2 lb of granular pool shock into a bucket of water, and pour into the pool. For the pH level, test 2x weekly, and adjust up or down, using pH increaser or pH reducer, as needed, to keep the pH in the range of 7.2-7.8. And, that’s about it! Have fun!

  25. We just purchased a Coleman 18×48 steel frame pool. It is now installed and the water is filled. What do I do next? Do I shock it and then check the levels. Will 3″ chlorine tablets work and how often do I put the tablets in. Also, I’m using the standard small filter system it came with but plan to upgrade. How many hours a day should I be running this “generic” filter system?

    Thank you!

    • Davy Merino

      Hi, for now, I mean NOW, add some chlorine shock to the pool, just 1 lb. But don’t just pour it in, unless it is non-chlorine or lithium shock. If regular cal hypo shock, dissolve it by pouring it into a clean 5-gal bucket pre-filled with water, and then stir to dissolve. then pour it around the pool edge, into the water. Test your water with a good test kit, like the K-2005, or the 7-way test strips, so that you can check and adjust the pH and Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness and cyanuric acid levels, and also chlorine levels.

      Add a small amount of cyanuric acid, if the pool is in a sunny area, aka conditioner or stabilizer, cyanuric will protect chlorine from the sun. The granular pool shock is used occassionally, to boost chlorine levels quickly, if they get too low. Also used to kill algae or correct cloudy water after an active use day. Generally used every few weeks. But, TABLETS are used everyday, for your everyday chlorination. You must maintain a constant and consistent level of chlorine, until the day you close the pool, to prevent cloudy water and algae, and bacteria. Tablets and a chlorine floater are the easy way. Add enough tablets to maintain a tested 2-3 ppm of chlorine. For your pool, that’s probably 2-3 tablets (more as it gets warmer) per week. Remember to replace them before the completely dissolve, and you’ll be golden. If you forget, pull out the shock and raise the level quickly, and then over-filter for a day or two. Run the pump as long as you need to, to maintain clear water. I would start with 12 hours daily, but be prepared to bump it up to 18 or more, if the water quality doesn’t look quite right, or if algae is spotted, especially in August when the water is warm (hot). Use a plug-in pump timer, to automatically turn it on/off, or you will forget, one day…

  26. Shoua Moua

    Hi, we just bought a Bestway 14′ x 42″ steel pro pool. I’m not sure what kind of chlorine to buy and if a floater is needed.

    • Hi Shoua, the best way to chlorinate any pool is with a constant and consistent means of applying chlorine, to avoid peaks and valleys, and especially low chlorine situations. From the moment the pool is filled, you want to add a chlorine floater, and use enough tablets to create a consistent 2.0 ppm of chlorine. for your small pool it may be only two tablets, and the floaters have adjustable openings on the bottom to regulate somewhat. When those two tablets dissolve, you have to be quick to refill, probably every 5-7 days. If your chlorine dips too low, the water usually first becomes slightly hazy and dull, and as you get good at it, you can tell by looking at your water, if chlorine is low. But – test your water pH and chlorine level every few days, to be sure that chlorine stays 1-3 ppm, and that pH is 7.2 to 7.6. Then, as needed, for cloudy water, algae, high bather load, high debris load, chloramine removal, bacteria removal, or if chlorine is discovered at zero (tablets take too long to dissolve and catch up) use a liquid or granular chlorine to superchlorinate the pool, to raise it up to 10 ppm. For each 10,000 gals of pool water, 1.5 gallons of 6% liquid bleach, or 1 lb of granular Cal Hypo 65% shock, would get it to 10 ppm, with a good pH level, preferably on the low side, 7.2-ish.

  27. Linda Fink

    is it possible to leave an above ground pool up over the winter months. the pool is 22’× 58″ it is a coleman

    • Linda, if it is a softsided pool, like Intex easyset or frame set pools, they should be taken down. Aboveground pools known as ‘permanent’ pools, are left up all year long. That being said, I just looked at a picture of your Coleman 22′ Power Steel Frame pool, and it is a softsided pool. If you live in a mild winter area, without long freeze periods, you probably could cover the pool, winterize it, but in colder areas, the pool will freeze and the ‘Power Steel Frame’ will not be as powerful as the ice pushing outwards. Now you could leave the pool open all the time, not winterized, although you could still cover the pool, or use a Leaf Net over it to help keep the pool clean and reduce chemical needs. BUT, you must be sure to run the pump system, at temps below 35 degrees F, or it will all basically crack in half.

  28. we have a new 14×42 above ground pool and our filter is constantly green no mater how often we clean it, the water is clear it uses a/c filter. can a bigger one be bought and used for this pool and if so which one will fit? the pump is the type that hangs on side of pool. what do i do about the filter getting green so quickly? thank you lots alethea

    • Hi Alethea, youir situation is all too common unfortunately, as manufacturers continue to put tiny little filters with their pool packages, at behest of retailers who want a lower price point – sigh! Anyway, yes you can improve filtration by installing a larger system. See this blog about how to upgrade, or see this other blog on the same topic. For some pools, adapters are now available to convert Intex wall fittings and hose, to use non-Intex brand systems. But, there are at least 5 Intex filter systems you can use, from 530 gallons per hour, up to 2500 gph, and sand filter systems also in several sizes (go big). Installing a filter two sizes larger than what comes with a pool will make your life so much easier, and save money on chemicals too.

  29. Linda Fink

    is it possible to leave an above ground pool up over the winter months?

    • Hi, Linda – most abg pools are left up all year, if they are considered permanent abg pools. Intex style pools are not intended to be left up all year long, those easy set or frame set style pools

  30. Robin Flatt

    I have an above ground pump. Do I need to turn the pump off to check the filter inside?

    • Hi, yes, turn off the pump first, then close the valves on the suction and return pipes, to stop water flow from the pool. Open up the air release knob on the filter top, and then you can open up the filter and pull out the cartridge, and hose it off well. Replace and reverse the process.

  31. Cecilia Trevizo

    My two year old pooped in pool but his diaper held it all. Although I am sure some came out. How should I clean it. The pool is new and we were just filling it up and It was about half way. We didn’t want to dump the water out. I took kids out, continued to fill and plan to run the pump all night. Suggestions on how to best clean the water out now.
    Thank you.

    • Hi Cecilia, balance the pH level, bringing it into the low end of the range, 7.1-7.3, then add enough pool shock to raise chlorine level to 10 ppm. For most aboveground pools that would be about 2 lbs of shock per 10000 gallons. Tell the other kids not to drink the pool water, lol.

  32. Andrea Shamblin

    Hi, I just purchased a smaller above ground pool. My question is how often should my chlorine floater be in the pool. Also how much of the pool shocker should go in once a week? I purchased some one pound bags. The pool is 10’x30″.

    • Hi Andrea, Keep the floater in the pool 24/7, with enough tablets to produce a constant and consistent 1-3 ppm of chlorine, verified by your test strips or test kit. Also check and adjust the water pH level as needed, to keep it bwtween 7.2 and 7.6 pH level. For the shock – you only have about 1500 gallons in a 10′ round pool, so you only need about 1/4 lb of pool shock, for your pool. It can be hazardous to store open bags of shock, (half used), so store open bags inside of a heavy ziploc freezer bag.

  33. Thanks for these helpful breakdown of task to do. I currently have a pool that is drained out. There is a bit of water on the bottom (from rain) and yes, it does look green and algae are having their own playroom in the bottom. Any suggestions in terms of what the best approach is since I don’t have water in it yet. I plan to fill up the whole pool throughout the course of 2 days. Should I check to make sure filter and liner are good before putting in the water? When should I begin the chemical/shock? When water is half-way filling or when completed.

    • Hi, if you want to suck out the water into a shop vac and then pump out the shop vac over the wall, that’s something I’ve done before. Or you can fill it about 3″ deep and then brush the floor, maybe add a cup (8 oz) of bleach, brush and skim the water, then drain again with a small pump. You may want to check over the liner, visual inspection to see if there are any tears. Check the tightness of the skimmer and wall return fittings, connect the filter system up, assemble everything so you don’t have any surprise leaks. You can calculate your garden hose rate of flow by filling a 5 gal bucket, then ‘extrapolate’ for your pool size, to see how many hours it should take to fill.

      You can begin adding a little chlorine to the pool as it fills, by adding liquid bleach or pre-dissolved granular chlorine powder (shock), to raise the chlorine level high during and just after filling, then you use a chlorine tablet floater, with 2-3 tablets, replaced every week, or when they are dissolved. Also check and manage the pH level closely, so your chlorine will work well. If the water turns from blue to hazy, cloudy or greenish, shock the pool again, following label instructions, to raise level high, and make sure the chlorine tablets are floating. You need to keep a consistent and constant chlorine reading in the water, 24/7, from the day it opens until the day it closes. Even 12 hours without chlorine and you can see the difference on some pools, 24 hrs and stuff starts to grow – especially in warm water temperatures, less fast when water is under 65 degrees F.

      And run the filter as much as possible, also very important to clean/clear water. It’s not all good water balance and sanitation, but circulation and filtration are just as important.

  34. I AM TRYING TO CLEAR MY ABOVE GROUND POOL IT IS SO GREEN. MY QUESTION IS I HAVE TO KEEP CLEANING OR CHANGING MY CARTRIDGE WILL THAT AFFECT MY CHEMICALS

    • Hi, changing the filter cartridge is sometimes the trick. Most A/G pools have woefully small cartridge filters, and after one season, they are shot. A new cartridge wont’ affect your water chemistry at all, but it will filter the water much better, and last longer between cleanings. For a green pool, make sure the pH is low, around 7.2 and then add LOTS of shock, usually a double or triple dose, or until the water turns a blue / gray color. Then, run the filter pump 24/7 – don’t shut it off at night. Recheck the ph and chlorine the next day. If chlorine is zero, repeat the process again. Use a pool clarifier to help your cartridge filter, and if drags on for weeks – consider installing a larger filter, which will save you time and money in the long run.

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