Hayward Pool Pump Troubleshooting

We carry the other brands, but Hayward pumps and filters have always been our flagship line.

Reliable & durable, Hayward pumps will still likely need some type of troubleshooting at some point during your relationship.

Often what appears to be a pool pump problem is actually a filter problem or a valve problem, so the first step is to rule out any mis-aligned valves or obstructions in the filter or pipes.

Barring problems with other pool equipment, a pool pump problem will either be an electrical issue or a plumbing issue. On the electrical side, problems can occur with the electric motor, timeclock, breaker or wires. On the plumbing side, you can have problems with air leaks, water leaks or just getting the water to flow properly.

Hayward Pool Pump Electrical Problems

Pump Won’t Turn On

intermatic-time-clockintheswimMakes No Noise: If you flip the switch and nothing happens and you hear no noise at all, check the circuit breaker by flipping it Off and then back On again. If you have an mechanical time switch or digital time clock, look into the Visual Motor Check, to see if the tiny motor gears are turning. If there is a GFCI outlet wired into the system, check that the red button is not popped out.

If power is reaching the time clock or switch, check the wires running from the switch to the pump for any signs of damage, and inspect the connections on each end, for loose wires or insect infestation.

If no power is reaching the time clock or switch, the tiny motor is dead, or the switch or breaker is bad, or the wires from the breaker to the time clock are broken or loose.

Makes Noise: If the pump motor makes a humming sound when trying to start, you likely have a bad start capacitor. On Hayward pumps, these are the black cylinder mounted at the rear of the motor. They are easily removed and replaced.

hayward-motorBefore ordering a new capacitor however, be sure that the shaft is not “froze-up’ with rust. To spin the shaft, disconnect power at the breaker and remove the capacitor (at 9 o’clock) and the thermal overload (at 12 o’clock) so that you can slip a 7/16” wrench onto the slotted shaft.

Use the wrench to wiggle the shaft through several revolutions to break any rust that has formed between the stator and rotor and free up the shaft. Carefully re-secure the capacitor and thermal overload switch.

Pump is Shutting Off by Itself

Not a good sign usually. If it turns back on after 15 minutes, it likely has been overheating. Provide shade if necessary, and make sure that air is circulating freely under all parts of the motor, remove any leaves or mulch.

Other causes of a pump shutting itself off include loose or broken wires or incorrect voltage, more than 10% more or less of the rated input voltage.

Pump is Smoking or Sparking

smoke_rising_anim_150_wht_13070Whoa, shut the pump off quickly. Smoking pump motors are usually caused by connecting 230V to a motor wired to receive only 115V. Check the motor diagram for the Low Voltage / High Voltage wiring diagram. An incorrectly installed shaft seal can also produce friction smoke, and a blown capacitor will throw off a lot of smoke, following the small explosion.

Sparking motors can be caused by loose wire connections or two wires or terminal connections touching each other, which is usually easily fixed. Sparking can also come directly from a short in the windings of the motor, which usually means the motor is near the end.

Pump Trips the Breaker

When the breaker trips when trying to turn on the pump, most likely the motor shaft is frozen, the impeller is stuck, or the capacitor has blown. In some cases, it can be a bad breaker, especially one that is used often to turn the pump on and off.

If the breaker trips while the pump is running, the pump is likely drawing more amperage or voltage than the breaker rating. This could be caused by incorrect voltage or from clogged or restricted pipes, valves or impeller. It could also be just a bad breaker.

Pump only Runs for 5 seconds

If your Hayward pump runs for only 5 seconds and shuts off, check the incoming voltage. Most inground Hayward pumps are shipped to accept 230V, and if you only give it 115V, it can’t get up to speed.

Many inground pumps are have ‘reversible voltage’, and can be switched from 230V to 115V by turning a tab or by switching a few wires on the terminal board.

Hayward Pool Pump Plumbing Problems

Pump is Leaking Water

water leak

A pump that is leaking water is usually a bad shaft seal or a loose pipe connected into the top of the pump. Leaks can also come from loose drain plugs or loose on bolts on the seal plate, connecting the motor to the pump.

If the water is running down between the pump and motor, determine if it’s dripping out of the plumbing fitting on top or the shaft seal on the bottom.

If you have just replaced the seal, it may have been placed on the impeller backwards, or the seal plate gasket is out of position, or the diffuser is misaligned and the seal plate is not sealing up against the pump body.

Pump Basket has Air Inside

bub3The opposite of a water leak, and air leak pulls water into the pump, and is always located in front of the pump impeller.

Common air leak sources are a loose or cracked pump lid or dirty lid o-ring, but most often the cause is the threaded fitting coming into the pump. Pool putty can make a semi-permanent repair, or the fitting can be cut out and replaced.

Other causes of air leaking into the pump is from leaky valves in front of the pump, low water level in the pool, or a skimmer weir stuck in the up position.

Pump is not Pumping Water

If the pump is not pumping water at all, check that all suction and return valves are open, and the pump lid is on tight, with the lid o-ring in place. Lubricating the lid o-ring regularly will help improve the seal. Check that the drain plugs are tightly inserted with Teflon tape, and that the pump basket is inserted in the proper way, and is sitting all the way down.

prime-the-hayward-pool-pumpIf the pump has lost prime completely, fill a bucket with water or bring over a garden hose and re-prime the pump manually by filling up the pump. If the pump won’t catch after a several attempts to fill with water, check for an air leak (see above) on the suction side of the pump, an obstruction in the line, or low water level.

If you just pulled the pump to check the impeller or replaced a shaft seal, make sure the seal is installed correctly and that the diffuser and diffuser gaskets are seated firmly.

Pump Flow Rate is Low

When the filter pressure is high, the filter is dirty ~ and when the filter pressure is low, the basket(s) are dirty. Lower than normal pressure on the filter corresponds with lower than normal flow rates.

pump-impellerCheck the pump impeller by removing the pump basket and reaching through the hole to feel for any debris or rocks stuck inside the impeller. If you feel anything unusual, remove the bolts to pull the motor out for a good cleaning of the impeller.

An air leak (see above) will also reduce water flow rates, as air is drawn in to the pump, and a dirty pool filter or baskets can clog up the works, and reduce the flow rate.

Pump is Loud or Noisy

noisy-pump-motorA loud or noisy pump can be either a plumbing or electrical problem. If the pump sounds like it’s gargling rocks, or there is heavy vibration noise, it may be cavitating, a term that means it’s starved for water. It’s either too powerful for the incoming plumbing, or too many suction lines are closed, or the skimmers are clogged.

A motor with a more high pitched squeal or screech is usually in need of shaft bearings. There are two sealed bearings inside pool pump motors. They can be replaced, but unless the motor is quite new, most pool owners will replace the entire motor.

That’s all Folks! If these quick tips didn’t solve your problem, feel free to call our pool tech supporters at 1-800-288-7946 for more Hayward pool pump troubleshooting.

And if you are in need of Genuine Hayward Replacement parts, we have Hayward pump parts and motor parts stocked in 12 warehouses for fast delivery with same day shipment!

Davy Merino
InTheSwim Blog Editor



Hayward Pool Pump Troubleshooting — 208 Comments

  1. Hi Davy, my pump is on a timer and will occasionally fail to turn on in the morning. When I then switch the pump breaker off and then back on again it springs into life (every time). Do you know what the problem is?

    • Hi Phil, hmmm, could be a breaker that is going bad – they tend to wear out after 20 years or so, especially if they are used often, as a switch. I would also check all the wire connections (power off) to be sure they are tight, on the breaker and on the time clock, and also inspect for insect infestation, or lizards, mice, etc. Hmmm, now if the breaker were stopping the power from flowing to the switch, the timeclock would lose time, and would not turn itself on. You can check the visual motor check (if you have an intermatic clock), to see if the motor gears are turning, which means the timeclock motor is good and the power from the breaker is good. Next time it happens, check power on the timeclock, or inspect the motor, looking thru the ‘visual motor check’ window (again, only on Intermatic clocks), if no power is getting to the clock, replace the breaker, and/or wiring. Better call an electrician for that though…

  2. Hi, my pump has power and makes no noise. I checked the voltage at the back of the motor and have 240 volts. Both the pump motor and Polaris are wired out of the timer and the timer seems to be working correctly and I checked it by checking the voltage at the motor with the switch in the off position and then again with the switch in the on position. No loose wires or insect infestation. Why would the pump and Polaris stop working at the same time? I assumed electrical issue but when I checked the voltage at the back of the motor and it was good I am at a loss. Please help!

    • Hi Bobby, so you have power at the motor, but no noise. If the wires are tight, I would suspect a bad capacitor, or wiring to or from the capacitor. A wire connected to the terminal board may be loose or burnt. You have both filter pump and polaris pump on one timer? I think you need two timers, usually, unless it can deliver 240 to the filter pump and 120 to the booster, at the same time. ?

  3. Have a Hayward variable that was replaced last year. After Irma came through, we were without power for a week, the pump won’t run on low speed and when it runs at high speed, it overheats after about an hour and shuts off. I’ve checked the voltage coming in before the breaker and after the breaker, (at the motherboard location), replaced the breaker just to be safe, but still, overheats. Any thoughts?

    • Hi Kevin, I think I would check the capacitor(s), maybe replace them if they test weak, or look cracked or damaged. An electric motor shop local to you could test them, perhaps for free or low cost. Overheating pumps are usually DOA, in my experience, but there may be hope.

  4. Hi
    Got a new motor, it made humming noise since day on,if i help it spin it works so I changed the capacitor and still the same, humming and if I help it to spin it goes fine, any suggestions?

    • Hi Ernesto, hmmm, I’m not quite sure, but sounds like it could be either low voltage, or a loose connection, or something mis-wired between the terminal board and the capacitor…?

  5. Hi Davy, I’m trying to remove the impeller from a Hayward 1 HP superpump. Directions say to hold motor end of shaft with wrench and to turn impeller counterclockwise (by hand). My pump impeller does not budge. Is there a solution for this problem? Trying not to damage impeller.
    Thanks, Jim

    • Jim, they can be sticky sometimes. A large pair of channel type pliers can be placed on the impeller, over a cloth, and given some persuasion. Open faced impellers need very large pliers, or a strap wrench, some have special tools to remove open brass impellers. But most plastic impellers are ‘closed’ nowadays, with non-visible vanes. So, grab the opening portion with pliers, while the wrench is holding the shaft still, and turn counter clockwise, it should come off, if it breaks, a new impeller is needed, but that’s rare, they usually will budge…

  6. Hi, we had very heavy rain the other night and I’m quite sure the rain at least briefly submerged the Hayward 2300 Variable speed pump I have. It does sit in a low spot and has happened once before, but I do have a solution to prevent it from happening again. But this pump smokes when I try to turn it on (guessing motor burned out from being submerged). Also the pool breakers are loose now. Is that a result of all the water that got in the equipment during the storm? I will be purchasing a replacement pump and have it installed, but I wonder if I’d need to just have the breakers tightened in the panel box? The breakers still seem to be working since when I turn the breaker on and the timer switch for the pump, it does send power to the pump.

    • Hi Andy, breakers are not usually screwed down, they snap in place, you can try pushing firmly on the front of the breaker with fingers, to be sure it is seated properly. All breakers have some wiggle to them usually, but a very loose breaker could be a hazard for arcing or even fire so should be checked out, if so…

  7. I have a Hayward Super II pump that has had a small leak between the pump housing and seal plate. I just replaced the seal and all of the gaskets along with carefully cleaning the grooves that the gaskets rest in and greasing them thoroughly with Jacks. I put the pump back together and it still leaks. I even tried another new housing gasket and it still leaks. What do I need to replace – the seal plate, the diffuser, the pump housing? My diffuser does not tightly fit into my seal plate. Could this be my problem?
    Thank you.

    • could be the motor, if the shaft has worn unevenly, or if there are grooves or rust on the shaft. A common mistake is to install the spring seal half backwards. Should have the hard plastic side facing the motor and the soft rubber side facing the impeller.

  8. Hi, my name is Javier
    I just have a problem with the motor pump, I turn ON Saturday morning and left all day working, On Sunday morning I try to turn on the pump but it only make a noise but water don’t flow then it stop working, then on Monday do the same thing it only make noise for 3 minutes then it stop working

    • Hi Javi – the capacitor on the motor may have failed. The capacitor is like the battery in your car – it’s needed to help get the pump up to speed (3200 RPM’s) fast. If the motor shaft and impeller is spinning freely (not clogged or bound-up), then remove the rear cover to the motor. First inspect wiring, to be sure everything is tight and secure, and there are no loose wires, or anything that looks wrong back there. The capacitor is the black cylinder on the left side, you can replace the capacitor at a low cost. We have a few of them, but maybe not the correct one for your motor, replace with the exact same MFD number, printed on the cap. A local electric motor shop should have them, or easy to find online. Just disconnect wires, and replace. If the capacitor doesn’t fix it, you may need a new motor, or pump, barring other issues that can be seen readily.

  9. I purchased a SP1580X15 Hayward pump July 2016 and began using it this year 2017. I shut the pump down the other night and it will not run. I check electrical from the panel breaker, to the timer to the circuit breakser to the switch to the outlet, through the wire to the pump and power is getting to the pump.

    I did find the black power wire lose on the pump when checking the wire connections, so I reconnected it but to no avail. Power is getting to the pump but the pump will not run?.

    I even plugged in the old pump and that too did not run? Excuse my ignorance, but what could be the problem?

    • Hi, is there a GFI on the outlet? A TEST button that is popped? Pumps need 120V, +/- 10%, so maybe the voltage is fluctuating, from loose connection from breaker to outlet, or a loose breaker. Breakers and outlets do go bad after many years, usually last over 20 yrs, but can fail sooner. The loose wire you found in the pump, that was a good catch, there should be no hanging wires in the rear of the motor, all wires from the terminal board, to the switches and capacitor should be tightly connected, and the metals ends should never touch any other metal parts, except the terminal they connect to… Retrace your steps to recheck power to the motor. I’m assuming that the motor makes no noise at all? Is the shaft spinning freely? Does the capacitor look bulged, cracked or leaking? That’s all I can think of now…

  10. Just purchased a Hayward SP32002VSP. Will be using it as a stand alone. I connected Line 1&2 plus bond. Pump is grounded. I basically removed my old pump and instalked the new one. The display shows nothing as if it is not getting power. However, when I check the connection at the wired, there is definetly juice there. I’ve tried connecting direct from circuit breaker, as well as bypassing with a timer. Nothing seems to give it juice. I checked the prong connector and found no juice there. I may have purchased a defective pump??

    • Hi Lo – in checking the owners manual https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/tristar-vs-S3202VSP.pdf, it suggests bypassing the timeclock and wiring direct to the breaker. Are you getting 230V (207v – 253V) at the pump? Are all connections tight? Is the wire size correct? If your previous pump was also 230V, as it likely was – I’m not sure what could be the problem, probably not a bad pump, but maybe some wire is disconnected, from the terminal board to the capacitor, for example, or otherwise mis-wired, internally perhaps? Tough one, good luck!

  11. Hi, I have a filter timer and a cleaner timer that are side-by-side. The filter timer will not turn on at all, even when trying manually but the cleaner does. Could this be an issue with my pump?


    • Hi, if the switch won’t flip to on, the timer tripper could be right at the point where it is about to trip, making it hard to turn to on. IF the switch works, but the motor does not come on, then I would first look at the ‘Visual Motor Check’ on Intermatic clocks. Use a flashlight, and you should see gears moving thru the small view hole. If the gears are not moving, either the motor for the clock is dead, or insects or lizard is stuck in the gears, or the breaker is tripped or off, or the breaker is bad. If the gears are moving, then power should be coming out of the timeclock to the motor. Check for power with a multimeter, at the timeclock and at the pump motor terminal board. If you have power coming into the motor, but no pump noise, check (Power off) that wire connections are tight, and inspect the wire for breaks or damage. If still nothing, look for damage in the rear of the motor, something burned, melted, loose, or pinched or cut wires.

  12. Hi,

    Good day!

    The pump does not start. So,as a first step to see if the power outlet is broken or not, I tried to charge my cellphone to the power outlet and it is charging. Then, I tried plugged the pump into another power outlet and it still does not work. Does it mean the problem is on the pump itself ?

    Thanks in advance!

    • Bobby, yes that would rule out the power source, or the outlet as being the problem. So, it could be a problem with the cord, or the connection on the other end of the cord, likely if the motor is making no noise at all. If there is a little noise, check the motor capacitor, or look at the motor switches in the back, look for anything that looks or smells funny. 🙂

  13. Hello, my motor runs for 20 seconds then stops. I removed it from the pump housing to troubleshoot — it was pumping weakly before stopping. It spins easily by hand and doesn’t make any noise. If I let it sit I can turn it on again, but just for about 20 seconds. It had been running ok this summer.

    • It shouldn’t be overheating, not in twenty seconds, but I suppose it could. Does it turn on again by itself, about 20 minutes later (after cooling down)? Could possibly be loose wires on the motor or timer, possibly a loose centrifugal switch or stationary switch on the motor, or maybe the windings in the motor are shorting out. If you have a local electric motor shop in town, you could drive your motor over there for testing. My guess is they would pronounce it DOA, but may find something interesting, or may find no problem at all, which would lead you to suspect the wiring, breaker, timer – the source of power. When it shuts off, you could also test power, to be sure power is still reaching the motor, with a multimeter tester.

  14. Good morning. Many years ago I had to replace my Hayward motor. I
    put in a new motor and had the old motor repaired. This week the motor
    died and I put in the old repaired motor. The hub was leaking and had to be replaced. I also replaced the seals. The motor runs but does not
    pull the water through. I replaced the impeller ring and noticed it
    spun and is loosely spinning. I also noticed that the repaired motor
    was spinning counter clockwise. I used electrical tape so the impeller
    ring won’t spin loosely around but it didn’t seem to help. Your thoughts?

    • hI, the impeller ring should go small side toward the impeller, they are often marked as such. You are also using the diffuser? The plastic shroud or cover over the impeller? Oftentimes I reassemble the pump only to find the diffuser laying on the ground (doh!). The motor spins CCW? That’s not right – if it is a 3-phase motor, perhaps the wires are switched, but for a regular hayward pump (residential) 3-phase power would be very rare….

  15. Hi my spa empties into the pool when the spa is turned on. I’ve read online it is most liked a valve that is faulty in some way. I had my Hayward pool/spa installed about 4 years ago. How can I locate and check if a valve is faulty. Thanks

    • Hi Bill, when it goes into ‘spa mode’, the spa drain valve should open, and close off the pool suction valves, so that all the water is coming into the pump from the spa only. On the return side, after the heater, the return valve should also move, with Spa Jets fully open and pool returns fully closed. If the spa is draining while in spa mode, it must be sending some water back to the pool, either the valve is not closing all the way, allowing some water to return to the pool. By looking at the return valve, you should be able to see if it is squarely closing off the pool return pipes. Many valve actuators have a small toggle switch that can be used to activate the valve motor, to turn the valve, it may have gotten switched accidentally and is closing off Spa Jets (when it should be closing off pool returns). Flip the switch opposite, and you should be all set. hopefully.

  16. Hi!
    I’m having a problem with my super pump. I just want to clarify..we had a problem with the fuse box and its just been changed. The pump starts up fine and draws water but then it starts clicking as if its shutting off and on.
    Could that be the voltage then or is there another possibility?

    • Hi Kathy, the clicking could be the start switch in the rear of the motor, not fully disengaging. Could be insects or the copper ‘arms’ are bent, or something caught up in the works, This is usually directly in the center of the motor – a centrifugal switch, steel with side springs, and a triangular shaped switch attached at 6 o’clock, but contacting the cent. switch in the center. When it gets up to speed, the switch is supposed to release the capacitor. Or, it could be that the motor is cavitating, and restricting the return side somewhat may balance the flow, if you have a valve or bypass arrangement, or can plug one of the returns, for testing. Finally, could be that the voltage is not quite right, one of the legs (power wires) not providing enough power. The pump may be reversible, able to accept either 115V or 230V, so the incoming voltage must match the set-up, +/- 10%. If it is reversible is lists voltage on the label as 115V/230V, but if 230V only, it just says … 230V.

  17. My Hayward Pump Super shuts off and then starts then shuts off and then starts again. My pool guy went directly to saying I need a new one. We knows its not electrical. Could this be true? I just bought this pump 3-4 yrs ago?

    • Hi Theresa, if the pump is overheating, and shutting off for 20 minutes to cool down and then starting again, that’s not usually a good sign, altho could be incorrect voltage or loose connections. Loose connections or insect infestation on contacts, or loose breaker etc, could also cause a different type of start/stop problem, very rapid. Could be a problem with the centrifugal switch, located dead center on the rear of the motor, or the stationary switch, located beneath it, and contacting each other in the center.

  18. Hi Davy,
    I just replaced a Hayward 2 hp SP2615X20 that started making a loud noise while still pumping, so I figured the bearings or something were gone, with a Hayward SP3015X20AZ 2 hp. The last one lasted about 3 years. This new one when turned on seems to start, and pump, but the breaker shuts off in probably less than a second. I rechecked the wiring, everything seems good. Am I doing something simply stupid, or should I call the pool people tomorrow? Thanks, Steve DeGray

    • Hi Stephen, could be a loose wire, not just the power wires, but other wires inside the back perhaps, or loose wires on the timeclock or breaker. Or a loose breaker. Possibly a bad breaker, they do wear out after 20 yrs or so. Did you rewire the time clock too, or just the pump motor? Motor wiring is pretty simple, green to ground and the other two wires, doesn’t matter which one, go to terminals L1 and L2. Hmmm, should work…?

  19. Hi –

    Have a Hayward 1HP self priming super pump on an older pool – the motor bearings are screaming. So – changed out the motor with a Century model. When starting up when the pump gets to 75% almost pushing the air out – the pump starts to pulse with a click in the motor – like the click you hear when a motor starts up. Thought he motor was defective. Got another one, it too is doing the same thing. WTF! I put my old AO Smith original bearing screaming unit in – FULLY primes – pushes all the air out – runs fine. BUT THE BEARINGS. What is the problem with those other motors? They do not seem to have enough ‘stooch’ even though they are rated at 1HP – like my original motor. This is weird, no?

    • Hi Ric, is the SF service factor rating the same on both motors (new and old)? Your old motor may have been uprated, and new one full rated? But the clicking, that sounds like a centrifugal switch, on the rear of the shaft, which could be a voltage issue?

  20. Hello, I’m having an issue where my variable speed pump is pushing de back into the pool however it only does this when it’s running at a lower RPM and does not exhibit this issue when running at priming speed or a higher RPM.

    This issue started immediately after I changed the filter grids on my FNS plus 60 filter. I completely back washed and clean the system two times making sure the filter was put together properly and there were no holes in either the manifold or the filter grids. The issue continue to happen so I called a pool repair technician and he came out and verified that the filter was put together properly and also replaced the O-rings in the backwash valve. He did notice that there was de inside of the filter grids so prior to putting it back together we completely flushed each of the grids making sure to get all the de out from inside of them.

    It has now been two days since the technician was here and the pump is still pushing de into the pool at lower RPM speed. What could I be missing that would cause this?

    • Hi Larry, When DE is coming back into the pool, it’s usually:
      1. Holes in grids, or stitching coming apart
      2. Missing air bleeder sock or strainer cap
      3. Missing standpipe o-ring
      4. Grids not aligned properly, thus not pushed fully up into manifold
      5. Missing push-pull valve o-rings

      DE powder getting inside of the grids however – that’s something notable and the fact that it only does it on Low Speed, also unique. On a DE filter, water enters the tank through the bottom tank bulkhead, and is when the tank fills up, water is forced through the grids, and then up thru the manifold, and down the standpipe to the top exit bulkhead – DE inside the grids, must have been missing an o-ring before, a push-pull valve plunger ring? If the wrong o-ring size was used, that could cause the problem. They have to stick out about 1/8″ wider than the plunger disk. You can pull out the plunger and inspect, and see how it fits the valve body, at the top, should contact all sides, and be lubed well, twice per year. i hope this helps, but I am also maybe missing something…

  21. Hi there, I made the very unfortunate decision to rent my home to a “friend”. I just got my home back, I walked outside and pool level was well below jets. Knowing prime was lost I filled the pool and the filter housing up with water. I flipped on the breaker and the pump made this god awfully loud noise, immediately flipped it off. Do you think my pump is gone or is it just needing more water to achieve prime again?

    • Hi Tommy, very loud pump – could be that the pump overheated, because it lost prime, and this either damaged the shaft bearings or melted/warped the impeller and diffuser. So, it either needs a new motor, or new internal parts, or possibly a whole new pump. Pull the motor out of the pump and turn it on briefly, to see if the noise remains. If yes, the motor bearings are the problem. If not, the parts internally, some parts, need replacement. Third possibility is just that the pump capacitor is bad, if the motor won’t turn over, wont’ spin…

  22. hi quick question, i have replaced the bearing for the pump but when i reassembled the pump i’ve noticed that if i shut the pump off and want to turn it right back on most of the time it hums like the start capactor is not working but if i shake the pump it will start up. or if i let it rest for like 10 to 15 min it will start right up on its own when i hit the switch. i know there is a low spead and hit speed switch when i take off the cover but it looks ok. it seems like the contacts get stuck together preventing the pump to turn on?

    • Hi Mike, it could be the start capacitor going, or it could be that one of the bearings is not quite perfectly flat, and if the shaft stops rotating at the right spot, it has trouble making the shaft turn, until bumped. Capacitors are cheap to replace, order the exact MFD number, printed on it, or you can pick up local at a motor shop.

  23. I have a Haywood swim pro voyager and it is making a loud vibration noise. What seems to be the problem. Thanks

    • Hi Marsha, I’ve had this question a lot this year. On your filter (X-Stream and Voyager) there are two large wing nuts under the lid which secure the pressure gauge and air bleeder. Check that they are tight and haven’t come loose. That is usually what causes the rattle. If they are tight, pull out the cartridge and drain the tank – whatever it is may be laying in the bottom of the tank.

  24. At the end of last year, I had a leak in the diverter valve. I had it replaced. During that time, the pump got really hot and melted the fitting on the top. I closed the pool for winter. This year, I have replaced all the plumbing from the pump to the filer. The pump acts like it wants to pump, but doesn’t. Any suggestions?

    • Hi Thomas, the fitting that goes into the pump, was it also replaced? It likely also got hot and the threads shrunk, now drawing in too much air for the pump to catch prime. You can patch the fitting usually with pool putty or silicone, but the best repair is to replace the fitting. Sometimes pump lids can also warp or even the pump housing or internals, in cases where the pump got REALLY hot, but that is rare, but if the cause, you’d need some new parts, or new pump.

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