Pool ladders and hand rails are an under-appreciated pool accessory. Not something you think about often. But pool ladders and steps are an important (and required) safety accessory for any pool.
Today we review the types of pool ladders, rails and steps available for inground pools, then we’ll cover pool ladder installation, and common ladder and rail repairs and maintenance.
Inground Pool Ladders
Inground pool ladders are usually a 3-step design, but there are 2-step and 4-step ladders for use in different depths.
They are constructed of stainless steel tubes, of 1.9″ diameter. The tubes are bent, drilled and given a high gloss chrome finish. Shipped un-assembled, pool ladders also include ladder treads, ladder bumpers and hardware (bolts and nuts) and escutcheon plates.
Ladders don’t include any deck anchor sockets, to secure the rail. These are installed separately using the standard 1.9″ OD anchor sockets used for inground pool ladders.
There are two types of 3-step ladders, the first is with plastic treads and suitable for most residential pool environments. Holds 250 lbs and installs into your existing 1.9″ diameter deck sockets easily.
For commercial pools, our heavy duty pool ladder has stainless steel treads, 33% thicker steel tubes, and extra wide 22″ treads. Classic 3-bend rail design meets all NSF standards for public pools.
There is another type of pool ladder, known as the in-wall pool ladder, which uses 2-4 plastic recessed treads, set into the wall (concrete or vinyl pools), and Figure-4 Grab Rails which slide into anchor sockets mounted to a 8″ channel.
The in-wall pool ladder design is not often retrofitted to an existing pool, but could be installed to change the pool appearance or to replace standard ladders that won’t work easily with automatic covers or safety covers.
Inground Pool Rails
Hand Rails for inground pools are used to give a tired swimmer a helping hand when climbing out of a pool, but more importantly, they assist in a safe entry and exit of the pool.
There are two main types of rails, both with an elongated Figure 4 shape. Made by Inter-Fab, both rails are made of 304 stainless steel, .049″ wall thickness, with a standard 1.9″ tube diameter.
Our standard 3-bend stair and step rail is rated for residential use and can be mounted in the pool deck or in the top step for a pool or spa entry. Hand rail tubes mount into brass or aluminum sockets placed 8″ apart.
Our cross braced 4-bend stair and step hand rail is also rated for residential, and is mounted into deck anchors set on 8″ centers. The additional bend dips the rail below deck level, makes exiting easier.
Inground Pool Steps
Pool ladders can be difficult to use for many people, and for this reason, in-pool steps are quite popular. If your pool was built without built-in steps, it’s a major job to retrofit them later.
Drop-in pool steps for inground pools solve this problem in an affordable and sturdy pool step that can be positioned in many locations in the shallow end.
Normally used on above ground pools, there are two pool steps that are made for inground pools. The Grand Entrance step and the Curve Step System are easy to assemble and last for years.
Both steps are adjustable for the slope of the floor and snug up tight to a curved wall to floor transition. Use in shallow areas of 36-42″ depth. Fill the ballasts with sand or pebbles to hold step in place.
Inground Pool Ladder Installation
In ground pool ladders are secured into the deck into brass or aluminum anchor sockets, which are mounted on a steel 20″ channel, so they will set in concrete at the right distance apart and at the same level.
- Refer to the ladder spec sheet for measurements
- Mark the deck for cutting, double check measurements
- Cut the deck with a concrete saw, break up rubble
- Place anchors into deck, connect bonding wire to lug
- Tape the top of sockets, and pour concrete to the rim
Pool Ladder Repairs & Maintenance
Pool ladders don’t give much trouble. Pool ladder parts are all replaceable, with the exception of the rails.
Over the years together, you may need to replace a broken ladder tread or missing stainless steel bolts. Ladder bumpers and escutcheon plates (trim rings) or anchor socket wedges may need replacement at some point.
Pool ladder repairs are all DIY friendly, and the only real maintenance is to replace worn treads or bumpers and tighten the bolts if a tread feels loose or wobbly. Keep your anchor sockets clean by flushing them out with a hose.
Pool Ladder Accessories
The Safety Step Kit, by SR Smith replaces your existing thin ladder treads with 8″ wide super heavy duty resin box steps that touch the wall, to prevent getting caught behind the ladder. Kit also includes side rails that prevent side slippage, and block pool cleaners, too!
If you have an automatic pool cleaner roaming your pool surface, chances are at one time or another it’s going to get caught behind the pool ladder. Ladder Guards are made by Hayward, Kreepy, Polaris and Jandy – just for this purpose!
Kool Grips are soft neoprene covers for pool hand rails and ladders. Fits snug around the hand rail, and zips tightly closed.
Kool Grips keep your rail cool to the touch, no matter the temperature, and the non-slip surface gives a better grip for safe entry and exit.
For pools that use salt chlorinators, the salt can corrode shiny chrome surfaces like pool ladders and pool lights. Attach this zinc sacrificial anode to the ladder rail to protect metal parts.
That’s all Folks! Drop us a line if you have other questions about inground pool ladders!
Hi. Help! Concrete guys are coming this week to pour the deck around our just installed pool. We just bought a ladder and the 2 4″ AS-100B bronze anchors for it but find that our installers won’t install the anchors into the cement. So, ignorance alert. Internet gives much conflicting, confusing info. Do we have to attach a copper wire from the mid center bonding screw on the outer side of the anchor to a rebar in the concrete before it’s poured? Does that effectively ground the whole thing? Do the 2 2o” apart poles at the deck level fit directly into the anchors? Just push down in summer and pull up and out for winter storage? Assuming the anchor bolt on the top rim tightens to secure it to the anchor and loosens for removal? What is bonding agent? Is it something to coat around the anchor between the bronze and cement? Do we need to stick a skewer or chopstick down the drainage hole to allow for drainage while they pour the cement? Then out again before it dries? And any other info that we can’t even think we need to know? Thanks is inadequate here…
Jana, the bonding lug on the back of the anchor is meant to connect a bonding wire, which can connect to the rebar in the deck for an ‘equipotential bonding grid’, where the rebar at another location is also connected to other metal components, like a metal pool light niche (unless plastic is used), or metal slide legs or diving board jig, and then connects the pump and heater if you have one, and filter if it is metal, most are not these days. And then the bonding wire is connected to a grounding rod. I am not an electrician, but I think I have that right. “Bonding” is a continuous loop of bare #8 copper wire, connected to all metal components around the pool, a little different than “Grounding”. The anchors should be placed 20″ apart, on-center, and at the level of the finished deck height. Wrap them with wire, to the rebar, to be certain that they don’t tilt or move during pouring and troweling. Cover the top with duct tape, so concrete does not get inside the anchor. Yes the anchor bolt is for loosening and tightening the anchor wedge against the rail. Never heard of the chopstick idea, but should not be needed, as it will be sitting on gravel.
Hi Davy
Hoping you can help. We have an In ground vinyl pool with a ladder that has bumpers on it. I think that previously(to us buying the house) the bottom of the ladder tore the vinyl side And the person installed bumpers and repaired the vinyl – that are in good shape. Unfortunately for us, it seems the Pressure of the ladder against the repaired side eventually seems to weaken the repair and we get a leak.
Our liner repair guy has told us we need to move the Ladder – or we could use pool noodles as additional protection. I’m thinking you may have a suggestion?
Thanks so much
Moving the ladder seems kind of drastic, but I can understand how the friction of using the ladder could cause a patch to peel off or come loose. You could try not to use the ladder…? Or maybe that’s inconvenient, or just using the ladder… gently. A larger patch can be made, that may help. And additional padding, yes maybe a pool noodle, that could help. No new ideas, but I wouldn’t move the ladder, although that could be an option if needed.
Good morning, I live in SC and have a sport pool (4 feet on each end and 6.5 feet in the center). We have stairs on one end. Is it mandatory or required to have the ladder?
A ladder is probably not required if you have the steps, and also because of the design or size. There are laws about how many ladders there needs to be per square foot of pool, but if you don’t want to have a ladder, take it out! If you are building a pool and you must install one to pass inspection, you can always remove it afterwards. But with the small footprint and the walk-in steps, it may not be required. If you want to be certain, call the building and zoning dept for your city/county.
Davy,
We’re looking to replace our inground pool ladder as we believe it’s contributing to metal staining on our vinyl liner. We had the pool company come out to replace the ladder, but they said it had been cemented in and they were concerned about cracking the cement decking so would not take on the job.
It looks like there is some kind of collar on one side and a brass socket on the other. Why do you suggest to remove the old ladder?
Phew! These guys, the best tool would be a 4″ grinder, but you could also use a reciprocating saw, with a fine-tooth metal blade. Just cut it off as low as possible, then use another type of grinder with a masonry blade, to grind down the metal edges, or – use your 4″ grinder and cut a deep groove in the concrete that is around the rail sockets, all the way around, and then use a sledge hammer and large chisel, or mini-jackhammer, to cut out the entire socket. Then refill the holes with concrete, and put your initials 🙂
I recently had an inground pool installed. The installer did not make sure the sockets were positioned correctly and now the handrail to the stairs and the rails for the basketball hoop are not straight.
How can these sockets be replaced while maintaining the bonding wire?
Hi Zak, great question. For those that don’t know, there is a bare #8 copper wire that runs around the pool and back to the pool equipment, connecting everything metal in a huge bonding loop, to capture any stray voltage, per Article 680 of the NEC. The answer to your question is that while you are digging them up, cutting out the old anchors, you will locate and expose the bonding wire, usually attached down low, on the rear of the anchor body, and before pouring concrete around your replacement, you will cut and attach the bonding wire to the new anchors. A brass pigtail is typically used to splice the bonding wire. PS – I’m not an electrician, so please consult one for the best information!
Hi.
I would like to dyi an inground concreet surface mount pool ladder. What would be the problem with that type of mounting instead of socket mounts?
Hi Steve, if you use the surface mount anchors, instead of the recessed, flush mount anchors set in concrete, it will be harder to connect the bonding wire, required for inground pools. It’s not easy to connect it to flush mount anchors either. The bonding wire is meant to pull stray voltage away from the pool, should a leak occur, from the pool light or motor. But, if you are not having an inspection, it is your choice as to install the bonding wire or not. Another possible issue is that a winter pool cover may snag or rip if in contact with the raised, surface mount anchor. Surface mount is definitely easier to install than flush mount…
I have an inground vinyl lined pool with a 3 step ladder in the deep end. The ladder bumpers are too far away from the wall of the pool and caused a tear in the vinyl last season. We bought this house last summer and this is our first time dealing with a pool. Are there bumpers that are thicker and would prevent the ladder from bumping into the wall? Thank you
Hi Julie, yes there are! The (Blue) SR Smith bumper is more substantial and stays put well, Also, did you know that there are Male and Female ladder bumpers? The Female ladder bumpersseem to stay on a bit better.
I have an oval 17 1/2 x 33 pool. 3ft shallow end to 8 1/2 ft deep end. There are 2 sets of ladders, 2 step and 3 step. Which ladder is supposed to go in the shallow end and which goes in the deep end?
Hi John, put the 3-step ladder in the deep end and the 2-step ladder in the shallow end.
I have a brand new in ground pool with a liner. We have not poured the deck yet, do the cups and channel come in a kit? Also when setting the ladder, does the bottom of the ladder touch the side of the pool, thus rubbing on the liner?
Thank you Jeff
Hi Jeff, you should use two ladder anchors mounted on a 20″ steel channel, so they will be properly spaced and level. The bottom of the rails do touch the wall, but the ladder bumpers on the bottom of the rail prevent damage to the liner. Female bumpers may be safer to use than male, which can fall off the ladder rail more easily.
Good Afternoon,
I have an inground pool with built in steps, the ladder handrails and the 3 bend step handrail are removed every winter when closing pool. But, I have had different pool companies over the years say the handrail holes should be plugged to keep water from collecting and freezing which could damage the cement pad. While others say leave them open, should i put plugs in to keep water out?
Hi Andrew, there’s no need to plug ladder anchor sockets. Many have holes in the bottom to drain into the soil, but if they do not, the brass metal, encased in concrete is tough enough. Expanding ice will simply expand upward. I have never heard of plugging these before, or heard of any damage from not doing so…
I have a in the wall pool ladder. The hand rails are set in concrete. The concrete around the rail is coming up on both sides. It’s looks like it is bubbling up. I tried repairing it by scraping the cement down and then putting new cement around it, but the new cement around the rails bubbled up. Any suggestions as to how to fix this.
Hi Karin, probably the best way is to cut & chip the old concrete and replace with new. Need a grinder with a masonry wheel, to cut around the socket on all four sides, remove completely and set into a new concrete pad, with rebar pieces pegged into holes drilled into the sides of the existing concrete. Big job! But the only way to really fix wobbly hand rails or loose ladder sockets.
Thank you for a quick response. Although the ladder is not wobbly at all. It’s mostly the cement coming up around the rails that are in the concrete. I did cut out the bad cement and replaced it but it did the same thing.
Hi Karin; sounds like maybe the concrete is ‘spalling’, or flaking up in chunks? That would probably be a bad mix of concrete, or overworked concrete (too much troweling), or most likely it is just too thin. There are some concrete patches that work well for 1/2″-1″ depths, and those that work better for deeper or thicker. You may need to chip down to a deeper depth, or use a concrete patch that is meant for shallow depth repairs. Hope that helps, I think I’m on the right track this time…?
I want to add a deck mounted hand rail to my pool, How would I bond it to the system?
Hi John, great question! And, it’s not easy to connect a new ladder socket to the existing bonded system, but a few ways are to connect it to the rebar in the pool deck, which is connected to the equipotential grounding system, or another way is to run the bare cable in (a large) expansion joint, to connect with another ladder, slide or rail that IS connected to the system. A third way is to cut a channel into the deck, behind the rail, where you can run the bare #8 copper wire (bonding wire) out of the end of the deck, and run it back to the equipment pad, where you can join up with the bonding wire, via pigtail connector. Fourth, you could just forget about it, as some people do, but that’s up to you or your inspector!
I have stainless steel inground pool rails that are on the surface (not in the pool), and I live in a cold climate area (Pennsylvania). The hole and anchor wedges/sockets are so tight, that the ladder is very difficult to remove and re-install. Does it need to be removed for the winter?
Hi Juan, good question, thanks! No, if you have in-the-wall steps, and handrails on the deck, you can leave the handrails in place during winter. Especially with the angled type of anchor, I understand, they are difficult to remove. The only problem is the extra weathering on the rails, and if that bothers you, the rails can be polished and waxed for shine and protection.
Installing a new pool and debating on whether to install the ladder in the deep end or not? 20×40 pool with 9′ deep end and 8 foot steps in shallow end. Do I need the ladder or can I go without?
Hi David, Ladders are usually required if you have a diving board or slide in the deep end, required by code, I mean. Otherwise not required (I think, your local building inspector may say different?). You could also install a swim-out in the deep end, a sort of ‘love seat’, which can be used in lieu of a ladder in many areas, and is also usable by (large) dogs and wildlife that fall in the pool. Ladders are for convenience and safety – but if you don’t’ need it – and it’s in fact optional, my personal preference would be no ladder, just for the clean-er look to the pool.
I have a vermiculite pool with a new vinyl liner the walls have a slant do you know of any steps i can buy most steps seem to be stright
Hi Ryan, your walls have a slant? That would not be usual, maybe not done on purpose, but over the years soil pressures or lack of water in the pool can cause walls to bend inward. If leaning outward in the shallow end, that could be creep or deck slippage. But to answer the question, I don’t know of any steps that are slanted, as you mention they are all straight or plumb 90 where they meet the pool wall.
Hi Davy. Similar issue. I moved into a home with an older amoeba shaped concrete inground saltwater pool. I’m guessing 1950’s or 60’s. At the end of last season, my pool company told me I’d need a new ladder. They recommended and purchased a Saftron Elite 3-Step (resin). When they came to install it, they realized that our pool walls are sloped/curved so that as they descend they curve toward the middle of the pool (kind of like a bowl). As a result, the ladder cups won’t sit flush on the pool deck. Wondering if anyone has run into this and how they’ve solved for it. FYI, we would prefer a resin ladder so that we don’t need to tear up the pool deck to bond the ladder. Thanks in advance!
There was a ladder called a sloped ladder made by KDI Paragon with a 15″ angle to the rails. I don’t think it is made anymore, but there are replacement treads available if you still have the old rails. An idea is to modify the wall in that area, to cut out a 90° notch in the pool wall, so the Saftron rails will work. You can also cut off about 1″ of the bottom, horizontal section after the bend, to fit better.
This is very helpful, Davy! Thanks so much!
What size wrench do I need to remove the ladder treads. I have tried everything. It’s the nut that goes on the bolt with a curved head.
Hi Tony, those ladder tread bolt nuts – are commonly a 1/2″ standard nut. Never metric, unless the bolt is not original.
I’m trying to replace the tread on my ladder. It has the tread bolt that is curved and flat to fit flush with the ladder. But we’re trying to tighten the bold, and it’s just spinning. How do we keep the curved flat end from moving as we tighten the bolt?
Hi Tanya, hmm normally the curvature of the curved bolt head will keep it from spinning, are you using the (SS) washer on the opposite end, under the nut? Normally the nut spins easily on/off the bolt, not overly grippy. Burrs on the bolt threads or if using a non-standard nut, with nylon insert, that would make it extra grippy. You could try to bend the curved bolt head more with heavy pliers, or grip the bolt head with pliers are tightening. the nut does not need to be overly tight, just snug.
Hi, I am a property manager for a mobile home park and I started a to have the Community Pool Re plastered back on March 12th 2018, they came in and stripped it started the tile and coping but it all came to a fast stand still, they are claiming the rails are a special order so my question is are all railiings a General Standard size or are there such things as a “Speacial Order” or am I just being Swindled ?
Thank you
Jennie M. Gonzalez
Property Manager
Hi Jennie, some pool handrails may need to be custom shape perhaps, but the vast majority of ladders and handrails and grabrails and assistance rails are a standard 1.9″ OD tube, and fit into standard 2″ anchor sockets. However, even standard rails may need to be special ordered (from the manufacturer), if local suppliers don’t stock your particular ladder or rail. However again, I can’t see how a handrail or ladder would hold up a pool replaster job – they are not really related that way… so yes, they may be telling you a story and the real problem may be a lack of workers, or a plaster trucks in the shop, or other ‘busy-ness’ problems.
i am trying to remove a ladder from a gunite pool for winter.
it seems to be “locked in” and I can’t pull it out of the sockets. what is the procedure for releaseing the locks. I’ve tried multiple screw drivers but can’t get the locks to release the ladder
Hi Teddy, for most inground pool ladders, pull up the escutcheon plate or trim ring, and the anchor wedge is removed by loosening the 1/2″ bolt head, turning counter-clockwise until it rises about 1/4″-1/2″, and then hit the bolt head with a hammer or heavy wrench to knock it downwards. Then pull up on the rails, wiggling a bit to work the rail out of the anchor sockets.
Does a ladder anchor that is bonded to the equipotential grid of an inground pool meet the bonding requirement for the ladder itself? (Assuming that the anchor wedges are tight.)
Hi Joe, I believe so, as long as the anchors are metal (brass – aluminum may also be acceptable), and not fiberglass anchor sockets, which are not very common. That is the typical way to bond the pool ladder. For specifics however, consult your local inspector, who is the ultimate authority on the matter, in his jurisdiction.
I have a pool ladder, known as the in-wall pool ladder, which uses 3 plastic recessed treads, set into the wall (concrete), and has Grab Rails which slide into anchor sockets. Two steps are broken. Is there an easy way to replace? Is there an inexpensive solution?
Hi Denis, the steps are available for repair. They are sold in a set of 3, in white, black or grey. I’ve replaced them before, and it’s not easy. An inexpensive ‘solution’ is to fill the cracked step with concrete and plaster, or fix smaller cracks with pool putty. But for replacement, the entire step is cut out, with small power saws and jackhammers. Then the back area is drilled and a few pieces of rebar are epoxied into the holes, sticking out a few inches into the area where the step will be. the area is cleaned and prepped with bonding agent and then the new steps are parged in place by filling them full of a concrete or plaster mix, and pushing them into the wall, then using a ladder or boards to help hold it while it sets up. Following a cure period, the external areas can be cleaned up, and then patched with a plaster mix, around the step. if done at the time of replastering, the patch will be hidden, otherwise, noticeable if looking at it closely.
[…] A Guide to Swimming Pool Ladders – In The Swim Blog […]