Convert Your Pool Light to Color LED Pool Lighting

convert your pool to color led lighting

Modern pools use high-intensity, low-energy LEDs. Not only are LED pool lights brighter, but they can save 80 percent of pool lighting costs. But wait, there’s more! LED pool lights create deep, rich colors in thousands of combinations, and can be synchronized and choreographed for a rock ’n’ roll style pool light show!

 Benefits of LED Pool Lighting

  • LED lamps last up to 20 times longer than R-40 bulbs
  • Low temperature LEDs are cool to the touch
  • LED lights use up to 80 percent less electricity
  • Safer lamps are all plastic and low voltage
  • Deep hues really make your pool pop

Selecting the Correct LED Pool Light

You’ll need the proper LED pool light to fit into your light niche. The light niche is the sideways “bucket” that holds the pool light into the wall. At the rear of the light niche is a hole for the light cord to run through as it exits the niche and runs in a conduit pipe over to the junction box, where it connects with the power source.

How to choose the right LED pool light

Not all LED pool lights will fit in all pool light niches. If you have a Pentair light, you can use the Pentair IntelliBrite LED pool light. If you have a Hayward pool light, you can use the Hayward ColorLogic LED pool light.

Or you can use the Hayward Universal LED pool light. This lamp will fit pool light niches by American, Anthony, Hayward, Pac-Fab, Paragon, Pentair, Purex, Sta-Rite and Swimquip. It’s universal because it will fit into most any other pool light niche. Unlike other lamps that void the warranty or remove the UL listing when installed in other niches, the Hayward Universal LED pool light is UL listed as safe for use in nearly any light niche.

Hayward Universal ColorLogic Pool Light

The Hayward Universal ColorLogic pool light is cheaper than the standard ColorLogic LED pool lights, but there may be a small additional expense. Universal ColorLogic lights are available only in 12 volts; they don’t make a 120V version. This is another reason, in addition to the all plastic construction, that the Universal Color Logic is able to be UL listed.

Hayward Universal ColorLogic Pool Light

Twelve volt lights are just as bright as 120V lights, and in fact, the Universal ColorLogic LEDs are up to twice as bright as current LED pool lights, and they’re safer to use.

In most parts of the country, you can use 120V or 12V pool lights. In some areas, local code requires a 12V pool light to be used. If you have a 12V light, you will have a transformer installed by your time clock, which looks like the one pictured here.

A transformer reduces voltage, from a higher voltage to a lower voltage. Pool light transformers reduce the voltage from 120V down to 12 volts to power low voltage, 12V pool lights. If you have this already because your area requires 12V pool lights, then you’re all set!

Installing a Pool Light Transformer

If your current pool light is a 120V pool light, then you’ll need to have an electrician install a transformer between the power source and the junction box. The Junction Box, or J-box as it’s sometimes called, is the point where the wires from the pool light meet the wires from the breaker box. The ends of the wires are usually connected with wire nuts. J-boxes are commonly located off the pool deck and raised a foot above the ground.

Installing the J-Box Retrofit Kit

An easier, cheaper and faster method by far is to use the Hayward J-Box Retrofit Kit, which allows you to insert a small transformer directly into the junction box. Purchase the Retrofit Kit that matches the manufacturer of your J-box.

If you are replacing several pool lights with Universal ColorLogic lights in your pool, it may be cheaper and easier to have an electrician install one standard pool light transformer, back by the circuit breaker box.

Installing the Universal Hayward ColorLogic LED Pool Light

After removing the single screw, you should be able to wiggle the light free from the light niche, and unless it’s full of water, it should pop up to the surface. Place the lamp to the pool deck and cut the wire behind the pool lamp. Make sure the power is off at the switch and breaker and use wire snips to cut through the wire.

Hayward Universal ColorLogic LED Pool Light

Locate the light junction box and remove the lid. Loosen the clamp holding the other end of the pool light cord and begin pulling the wire up until it all comes out. Then insert a fish tape into the conduit and push it in until it comes out through the light niche.

Wrap the new cord wire tightly around the end of the fish tape and pull your new cord through. Leave enough cord on the pool side to allow you to bring the LED pool light up on the pool deck in the future and cut the excess cord off at the other end, about 6 inches above the junction box.

Wire your new Hayward universal color LED light into the J-Box Transformer or to wires connected to a transformer back by the pool electrical panel. Then close your junction box.

The next step is to insert the universal LED light into your existing niche. For some Pentair niches, you may need to use a spacer, and for some Sta-Rite or Swimquip niches, the bottom tab may need to be removed from the Universal ColorLogic light ring. After attaching and securing the new color led pool light into the niche, secure the trim ring as shown above.

Pool Light Show!

Now you’re ready to test out your new color light shows! You can select any of seven pre-programmed dazzling light shows or set it on one of 10 single colors. If you add Hayward’s Pro-Logic controller to your pool system, you will upgrade to 101 colors and 11 light shows. All are adjustable for speed, motion and brightness.

LED pool lighting is an easy way to reduce your pool’s impact on the environment, and you’ll also reduce the amount of money you pay to the electric company each month. LED pool lighting is also much cooler and more fun than traditional incandescent pool lights.

If you have other questions on converting your pool lights to LED Color pool lighting, see our pool lighting pages, or call one of illumination experts in our call center for a quick answer.

50 thoughts on “Convert Your Pool Light to Color LED Pool Lighting

  1. Bobby Jones

    I’m so confused lol. I need to replace my dead incandescent light bulb and would like color changing LED as an option for my pool and spa. My pool is 17 years old and I assume it is 120V. I use a Jandy Aqualink to turn the lights on and off.

    I have looked behind the pool light and it’s a hayward fixture but I don’t know much more than that. My local pool company estimated about $1700 to put LED lights in which given it’s two bulbs seemed insane, but when I can see LED bulbs online for a couple of hundred bucks I think there must be a better way but then I think I’m probably missing something if the pool company think it’s such an expensive job.

    • Hi Bobby, I doubt the company is just replacing the bulbs, I’m sure they are estimating replacing the entire lamp with an LED lamp, probably Hayward ColorLogic. $1700 would not be too much, if they are replacing two lamps, which can be $700 each. Maybe they are just replacing bulbs, you might want to ask for a written proposal.

  2. Daniel Parker

    Hi Davy,

    I’m confused? So if I buy a Pentair Intellibrite LED to replace my halogen pool light, I don’t need to install a transformer? I’m reading some questions and answers and some of your answers talk about installing a transformer, except for the Pentair, where you say you don’t need one? Help, I’m so confused???? Thanks

    • Transformers are used to reduce voltage from 120V down to around 12V. If you use a 12V lamp, you will need a transformer. If you use a 120V lamp you will not need one. Some states or counties require low voltage lighting (12V), while most others do not. It’s not about brand (Pentair), but about voltage – LED lights are available in two voltages, 12V and 120V.

      • Thank you. So any suggestions on a 120V LED? And since it’s 120v, I’m guessing I won’t get the energy savings? Thanks for being so quick on the reply!

        • Hi again, energy savings come from wattage, not really related to voltage. Lower wattage bulbs consume less energy, and most LED lights are pretty low in watts. One way to do it easy, if you have the Pentair Amerlite, is to replace with the AmerBrite LED color replacement bulb. Or you could do the PAL Evenglow Light, which does include a transformer (because they are 12V). The J&J 120V LED lamp is a good one, at a good price. Or you can also use the Pentair IntelliBrite, or the Hayward ColorLogic. IF you have a Pentair or Hayward Niche, best fit is to use the corresponding Pentair or Hayward light, or the PAL or J&J will also fit either.

  3. hello,
    please i want to ask about pool light if i can install a flat led light without placing a niche,is it possible to do this or it is not recommended?if yes,am i restricted to certain type of tubes to put such as pvc,or i can use the normal plastic ones that are being used in house electric installations
    Thank u Sir

    • Hi, the way to do it now is to use a hammer drill or side-mounted core drill, to drill a hole in the wall, about 1.9″ wide, and then place a 1.5″ PVC pipe in the hole, and seal-up effectively around pipe to prevent leaks. Then install LED lights like PAL Treo or PAL-2000 lamps, or other 1.5″ “nicheless” led lights. The cord runs into the pipe and connects to a transformer/controller device, usually mounted by the filter equipment. It is recommended to use an electrician to make the connections for safety.

  4. Hello Dave, I am replacing 2 – 12V Hayward colorlogic 4.0 LED lights. do I need to lower water level to pull new light wiring through niche/conduit? my concern is once I remove the current light/wire from conduit, water will enter conduit. (if its not already in there). I see there is a waterproof caulk around wire, leaving Niche into conduit.

    • Hi Scott, you do not usually need to lower the water. And water is always in the conduit. The caulk or silicone you see might mean that the conduit is leaking, or may have just been precautionary. Remove the caulking first, as it will plug up the conduit and make pulling the new light cord thru difficult.

  5. Trenise Foster

    Hi, I just had a pool installed. I now wish I would have upgraded the light to the color changing. Is all I have to do is put a color changing bulb in the existing housing or do I need to upgrade the entire housing to switch to a bulb that changes colors?

    • Hi Trenise, you can do either. J&J makes bulbs that fit into incandescent style (normal) pool lights, or you can replace the entire lamp with a new lamp.

  6. Gary Dinda

    Hi Dave, hoping you can help. My 120v Hayward light went bad in the niche/fixture(8 yrs old and water leaked in I assume) and I am leaning toward 12vac and the transformer option. A couple of questions I have an I was at first going to go for the Pentair Ameribrite and saw it was discontinued and then Amerilite which appears to be a screw in LED(True ?). Anyway….. questions:
    1. Which Pentair LED light will fit in my housing which I believe is Hayward SP0607U?
    2. Are the niches/ housing susceptible to not outliving the LED’s?
    3. When the LED ‘burns out’ how much to replace that item?
    4. Do the 12vac options, aside from safety, provide better longevity, meaning pulling in a new one from the pool housing to the el panel?
    and 5. Are the all plastic options better(and newer), and cheaper, the the one’s I am looking at?
    As you can tell I am looking at a smart option, and maybe more expensive initially, that won’t be the next time?

    • Hi Gary, the Amerlite does have an LED bulb you can buy that will screw in like a regular bulb, which is called the AmerBrite… which has been discontinued, but some are still available. 1. Pentair lights will fit the Hayward niche, yes. 2. Niches can last 50 yrs or more. 3. You replace the entire lamp, not the LED usually. 4. 12V is not necessarily safer, if wired or grounded incorrectly, they can be hazardous, and I don’t believe they have a longer lifespan than 120V. 5. Plastic is less susceptible to salt corrosion.

  7. thomas martin

    I have a breaker box for pool and light and another smaller box next to it but it has been painted over. The smaller box then runs down to a even smaller black box on a riser pole into the ground. Is the small box next to the breaker box a transformer? What is the smallest black box on a riser running into the ground?
    Thanks

    • Thomas that might be a junction box for the pool light, perhaps? These boxes sometimes have some clues printed on them, or wires that can be followed to determine their use. You can send me a picture, to swimmers -at- intheswim.com if convenient for you to do, I might be able to ID the items.

  8. I have Fiberstars Fiber Optic FX Light 120v and I want to replace it with an 12v LED light. Can you tell me what model would be best to replace this with. To convert to 12V my options seem to be to install a transformer near the pump or replace the junction box near the light with a Hayward J-Box tranformer and convert to DC there. The distance from the light to the pump area is 80-100 feet. Can you run 12v DC at that distance?

    • Hi John, 100′ is about the limit for the 12V light, further than that may result in some loss or voltage drop. Be sure you have an electrician do the work, grounding and bonding is very important, and 12V lights mis-wired have resulted in a few electrocutions in the last few years.

      • Davy: my third (in 7 years) Hayward ColorLogic is bad. The light is intermittent, but mostly off. The cord is 100’. Is it maybe the cord length causing issues? Do you know of a more cost effective replacement. I think the niche is LFGUY1000.

        • Cord length should not be the issue, but if the lamp is 12V (not 120V), 100 ft is the limit, because 12V lamps have some voltage drop over longer distances. The J&J LED Lamp is a good replacement for a Hayward niche.

  9. Oliver Street

    Your installation instructions … you wouldn’t wrap the cable around the fish tape, you’d overlap the cable and fish tape by at least a foot and wrap electrical tape around them both at 6″ intervals. Some cable pulling lubricant aka conduit wax would make getting the new cable through the conduit much easier if its more than a few feet. That said, using a fish tape is unnecessary, the fish tape will rust from being used in water if it isn’t wiped with oil as its wound up, and it makes the job more difficult than using 1/4″ braided nylon line anyway. Just overlap the nylon line with as much of the light cable being withdrawn as available and wrap them together with electrical tape. As the pool light cable is withdrawn from the conduit the nylon line will be pulled down through to the niche and up onto the deck. Use pulling lubricant aka conduit wax on the nylon line as its pulled in to make pulling the new cable up easier. Its quicker to just cut the wrapped part of nylon line and lose a foot of line than to unwrap the tape from the old cable, unless you need the rope to stay full length. Next overlap the end of the new cable and the nylon line and tape those together, and then pull the cable up to the junction box. Use pulling lubricant aka conduit wax on the new cable as it goes in to make it easier to pull through. Its not really necessary for a 10′ cable, but longer cables can have a lot of friction.

  10. I have a 12V transformer next to the junction box. I have three lights in the pool, one of my lights is a 120V 4.0 color logic led and the other two are Hayward UCL 12V leds. How can the 120V led work in this system with the 12V? Also can I switch out the remaining 12V leds with 120V 4.0 color logic leds even though I have a 12V transformer? I’m confused on how I have a 120v light working in this system now. Thank you!

    • Thomas, the 120V light must be tied to a breaker directly, it is not wired thru the transformer. If you were to replace the 12V lights with 120V, you would not use the transformer. Some states are required to use 12V lights, so check with your local building and zoning, if so the 120V light may not be allowed. And if you start changing things, please call an electrician to do the work, and verify the local codes, it could be dangerous to do yourself.

  11. I bought a house with a pool that is about 20 years old. The only light in the pool needs to be completely replaced. It was a (I think) a Pentair with a partial label marked – Series 77XXXX, 250 watt, 120 volt, T-4 bulb type. I do not see any transformer box near the light. There is a switch near the breaker box. Could the transformer box be within the housing of the diving board? Can this light be replaced with an LED light? What would be required for that kind of installation? What kind of light should I buy? This light seems smaller than most pool lights for sale, similar in size to a spa light. Thank you for any advice you can provide!!!

    • Hi there, the 120V light would not have a transformer, but if you mean a junction box, there is usually one directly behind the light, off the deck, or sometimes they are back by the breaker box. I believe that your light is a Pentair SpaBrite lamp, and can be replaced with the Pentair Intellibrite Spa light.

  12. Hello! I have an old Paragon incandescent pool light (brass fixture and brass niche) that has developed a short and that I would like to upgrade to LED. What are my choices for this particular (flooded) niche? The junction box for it is rather low to the ground (maybe an inch from grade), and the 120V supply line (GFCI-breaker in the panel box) enters the same junction box via another conduit from the house. Unfortunately there is no switch for the light right now – it has to be turned on via the breaker. If I had to convert to a 12V system, could I put that transformer right in the panel box in the basement? Thx for your time!

    • Steve, I would recommend that you bring the pool lighting up to code, with a new breaker, new conduit from breaker to a new j-box, behind the deck, and 12″ above grade, and new conduit from j-box to light niche. You can also install a switch at the same time. Don’t do 12V because you think it’s safer, because if wired wrong, grounded wrong or not maintained, it can also be dangerous. I would recommend that you hire an electrician to at least plan it out and do the connections. You can dig the trenches and glue conduit together, and backfill, if you really want to help.

      • Thanks Davy. So any advice on LED fixtures that will fit in the Paragon niche?

        • Yes, the Paragon niche is a unique, very shallow niche if I recall, only about 5″ deep perhaps? Measure the depth, and use that to compare to printed spec sheets of lights, which will show a line drawing with length, width and depth measures. You’ll also want to measure the width of the niche, which I don’t recall. The Pentair and Hayward LED lamps are about 10.12″ OD, but they fit a niche width of about 9-10″. The J&J lights are also the same size. https://www.intheswim.com/images/products/E3767/E3767_brochure.pdf hayward and pentair lights have priced themselves higher for 2020, and restricted light sales to brick & mortar only, making the J&J lights much more affordable. Only 3.4″ deep, that could be a good choice for your niche. https://www.intheswim.com/p/j-j-electronics-led-inground-pool-light-fixtures

          • Thx! You’re memory is very good – the niche is about 5” deep with an ID of Just about 10”.

  13. Hi Davy,
    I have a Hayward light (model SP-581, 12v) that I would like to replace with LED. I’ve been looking at the Hayward Colorlogic but $750 seems quite high for a light. Is there anything else that won’t break the bank and still fit in my Hayward niche?Thanks,
    Joe

    • Hi Joe, last year Hayward raised prices on their lights and pulled most lights off of the internet, by not allowing us to sell them anymore. J&J Electronics has made LED lights that will fit the ‘big-3’ manufacturer niches (Hayward, Jandy, Pentair), and they (J&J) actually specialize in LED technology. They also make the LED bulbs with a medium base, that you can use in your existing lamp, replacing the incandescent bulb. See J&J ColorSplash 3G bulbs. We carry the J&J lamps too, but currently not their 12V model.

  14. Hi Davy, Can you recommend a LED light replacement for the Jandy WaterColors LED120V light and niche. I do not want to use the WaterColors light. I have had to replace the LED light 2 times in three years. They work great for about a year, and then they stop after a minimal number of hours used. 3-five hours/night. Three on weeknights, 5 on weekends. This is nowhere near the 20,000 to 50,000 hours of use that is stated in the specs for the WaterColors LED. No rhythm or reason. They just quit. So, I want to find a reliable LED light that will retro-fit to the Jandy niche. I do not mind installing a 12V junction box if necessary to convert to a 12V system if I have to. Thanks.

    • Hi Teri, the J&J electronics LED light would fit the Jandy Niche. You can also use the Hayward ColorLogic lamp.

  15. I have an in ground pool with an Anthony pools model 30 light. Is there a led replacement that will fit directly into the existing niche?

    • Hi Ian, the Pentair Amerlite makes the closest fit to that light niche. You can also use the J&J lamps. Pool lights are purchased by Voltage, Wattage and cord length. Measure from your junction box (usually behind the diving board, off deck), to the edge of the pool, and add 10 ft. Most Anthony pool lights are 500W, 120V. https://www.intheswim.com/c/in-ground-pool-lights

  16. Howard Abrams

    Hello Davy,
    I recently purchased a home with a pool and the light wiring was toast. Seriously fried. I had an electrician update the panel with a GFCI breaker and a new 12v transformer, an Intermatic PX100S. The electrician does not install replacement pool lights but took the wiring all the way through the J box. Now it’s on me to find the replacement LED light that will fit in the niche that once housed a Hayward Astrolite. I am not sure if I can buy an LED light fixture that draws more then 15-20 watts. I’ve read some things that seem to indicate the 100 watt transformer will not be enough to power anything greater. I thought the transformer should be powerful enough to support up to 100 watts but maybe that s not the case. Any advice on if I need to upgrade the transformer to 300 watts?

    • Hi Howard, the 300W Intermatic transformer is normally the one we see for 12V inground pool lights. Intermatic PX100S, I think can do it also? Not quite sure. The Color Logic LED light will fit in your light niche.

  17. Andy Muniak

    Hi Davy,

    I have an old Lumenyte Pipe Lyte fixture that I want to upgrade to LED. Do you know if I would be able to use the Universal Colorlogic as a replacement? I’m not sure currently of the fixture size or style on the pool wall?

    • Hi, the Colorlogic light measures 10.64″ outside diameter, with an ID of less than 10″ it is only 2.5″ deep.

  18. Richard C Silvestri

    Can a standard pool light such as a Hayward with about a 12″ niche be converted to the 1.5 ” lights fed with a optic fiber cable?

    • Hi Richard, well, no – not yet. I’ve looked at the Hayward Crystalogic 160/320 owners manual, and it does not reference a “Niche Adapter” that would allow use of the new 1.5″ style lights, in the standard 12″ light niche. There may be plans to make an adapter in the future, but I’m not sure. In any case, the 1.5″ lights would be much less bright than the larger traditional lamps, so Hayward would not want to make it seem like the 1.5″ LED would be a suitable replacement for the 12″ lamp. The 1.5″ lamps are mounted in 1.5″ pipe (running in a pipe, placed in a hole drilled thru the wall), and most pools would need 2 or more lamps to adequately illuminate the pool.

  19. Hi Dave,

    I have a very old pool light that is being replaced. The fixture is a Sp0540-z-18 Hayward. I want to replace it with a a new hayward Led crystal logic light but the reviews on amazon are very bad. Can I use a Pentair or is it just easier to stick with hayward.

    • Hi Jeff, the hayward and pentair niches are not exactly the same size. The Hayward is about 1/4″ larger. You could use still use a Pentair however, with some modification, or if you don’t mind a less than perfect fit. How about the Hayward ColorLogic light, have you looked at those?

  20. David Ebner

    Hi Davy,
    I am looking to replace my current pool light and my transformer is right at 50 ft but I don’t think that a 50 ft will be sufficient. I am thinking about going with an led instead of the current incandescent. I am not positive but I think that the transformer is bad as well because it makes a load buzzing sound and then trips the reset button. Does the new led light come with it own transformer

    • Hi, the LED lights do not have their own transformer. They transformer you have may be bad, or it may have some corrosion or insect issues, or wire connection issues. It may not be the transformer that is causing the breaker to trip in other words, altho it can be!

  21. Hi Davy, I’m an in the swim customer and I love the products. I want to replace the bulb in my inground pool and want to know if I can just replace the bulb with a color changing bulb. My fixture is the Hayward sp572-L and I want to have the right bulb without having to change the whole fixture. I was also told that I have to change the gasket but the name has been washed away. Can you help me, my pool needs light to come back to life.

    • Hi Tracey, yes that bulb seems to fit the Hayward SP-570 series. SP-572 is the 12V fixture, so should match up fine. Yes, good idea to change to gasket, SPX0580Z2 is the Hayward part number.

  22. Leo James Flick

    I have (2) 120v sam lights in my pool, what LED lights can i buy to replace them.
    The one i’d need a 20′ cord and the other approx 50′
    Thanks in advance

    Leo

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