In-Floor pool cleaners have been around since the 70’s when they became the answer to the complaints about traditional pool cleaners. Free from hoses, whips and cords, in-floor pool cleaners operate by creating currents that drive debris towards the skimmer and main drain. They are especially popular for desert pools or pools without a lot of tree leaf litter, as they can become overwhelmed with heavy debris. Here are a few of the most common in-floor pool cleaner repair questions.
In-Floor Pool Cleaner Repair FAQ
I checked our help file, and dug up some good In-Floor Pool Cleaner Repair Q&A about common problems with in-floor pool cleaner systems.
Q: DIRT COLLECTING IN ONE AREA OF THE POOL?
If dirt has begun to collect in one area of the pool that normally stays clean, the first thing to suspect is the overall water flow and operation of the system. The last thing to check is the pop-up heads themselves.
- Check and clean pool filter
- Check and clean pump and skimmer baskets, or main drain Leaf Traps.
- Check return valves after filter for proper water flow / pressure.
- Check pop-up heads and inspect for clogs or damage.
- Check the water flow valve or distribution head for assembly and operation.
Q: SOME POP-UP HEADS ARE NOT POPPING UP?
If all of the other banks of pop-up heads are working properly, or 2 out of 3 heads are coming up, but 1 or 2 heads are not coming up, you also want to check the flow first before you start digging into the distribution valve or pop-up heads.
- Check and clean pool filter
- Check and clean pump and skimmer baskets, or main drain Leaf Traps.
- Check return valves after filter for proper water flow / pressure.
- Check pop-up heads and inspect for clogs or damage.
- Check the water flow valve or distribution head for assembly and operation.
Q: POP-UP HEADS NOT COMING DOWN?
If you are wondering if debris or coins or something can get stuck around the pop-up head, while it’s in the up position, you are correct. Pop-Up heads usually come up in sets of 2-5 floor jets, and some types rotate as they pop-up. After the flow ceases to the bank of floor jets, the pop-up head should settle down neatly back into the hole. If it stays up even after water flow has moved to other jet banks, take a dip with a mask or goggles, and see what may be obstructing it. The pop-up may also have rotated out loose. You can reinstall the head by pushing down and rotating counterclockwise, although you may need the installation tool. Finally, you may have damage to the pop-up head, that is preventing the operation.
Q: SYSTEM IS STUCK ON ONE ZONE?
If your in-floor cleaner system is stuck on one zone, and is not advancing through other zones like it should, you first want to check the pressure, and secondly want to inspect the distribution valve. Make sure all systems are clean and water is flowing only to the valve (and not to the spa or wall returns). For the valve, loosen the union and loosen the band clamp to gain entry. Inspect the gear assembly, piston assembly, o-rings, balls and other parts to be sure all parts are present. Then look closely for any signs of damage or wear. And don’t forget to clean the intake screen! Check the parts schematic to determine more easily what you are looking at.
Q: MULTIPLE ZONES ARE ON AT THE SAME TIME?
In-Floor cleaner systems work by directing the water into only one pipe at a time. Each of the 5 or 6 pipes feeds several pop-up heads. If your cleaner head stops rotating between zones, but gets stuck on one, or stuck in between pipes, first check water flow as described above, to be sure all the water is coming into the valve, and not flowing into a spa or waterfall. Clean the pump basket, pool filter, and some systems have a small strainer on top of the cleaner valve. If that checks out, then you can go inside the valve head by loosening the union nut and removing the clamp band or bolts. Look for missing port o-rings first of all, and then inspect the gear assembly for any obstructions, misaligned gears or missing parts.
Q: WHAT BRAND OF IN-FLOOR CLEANER DO I HAVE?
There are several notable manufacturers of in-floor cleaner systems, identifiable by the pop-up heads, and/or by the distribution valve design. They all use either a ball valve, piston valve or T valve head that cycles between the ports connected to the pipes.
- Astral Jet N Clean
- A & A Manufacturing: Magna Sweep, QuickClean, California Clean, Turbo Clean, Jet Clean, Gould
- Pool Valet: Pool Valet and Pool Valet RetroClean
- Polaris Jandy Caretaker and Caretaker 99, Caretaker 8 Ultraflex
- Paramount In-Floor Systems
Q: I THINK MY IN-FLOOR CLEANER IS LEAKING. CAN I DO A LEAK TEST?
There’s a few ways to test to see if the in-floor system is leaking water. First is to shut off the cleaner system. If you have alternative wall returns or spa return, turn the valve to send all the water away from the in-floor head or distribution valve. Then note the water loss carefully during 24 hours, compensating for any rain caught in a poolside bucket. Then do the test again, running the in-floor system for 24 hours and also measure very closely any water loss and any rain during the period.
If you have water loss only when running the in-floor system, the first step I would take would be a shovel right near where the pipes enter the ground, below the water valve. Dig down a foot or two and if you hit soggy soils, you may have found the leak. If not, the next logical step would be to pressure test each individual line with water and gas, while measuring water pressure and listening for gas bubbles escaping. You may have to cut off the water valve to pressure test properly, and to try and locate which line is leaking (out of 5 or 6 pipes), and hopefully not more than one pipe is leaking.
Q: ONE OF MY IN-FLOOR PIPES IS LEAKING UNDER THE POOL?
Leaking in-floor cleaner pipes can be found and fixed in most cases, but depending on where the break is, you may exercise the option of abandoning the pipe underground, and connecting the abandoned pipe into another pipe, or to a system bypass arrangement. But don’t let me scare you, usually when a pool leaks, it’s not the in-floor cleaner system, but something else.
Q: SHOULD I REBUILD OR REPLACE MY VALVE HEAD?
Yes, you have the option, for many manufacturers to rebuild the valve head, with the proper rebuild kit, or replace the entire valve for a higher cost. Rebuild kits are mainly just o-ring kits, essentially, although some manufacturer kits include new pistons, or gear assemblies. Most any part you need for in-floor cleaner water valves is available, and you can in some cases, switch brands of water valve, and use it with different pop-up heads.
Q: HOW DO I REMOVE THE POP-UP HEADS?
The standard pop up head has two slots on either side of the head, to mate with the head removal tool, which is made to fit onto the end of a pool pole. The way to remove them is to twist it with the removal tool about 1/4 turn, counter-clockwise, and then let the water pressure blow it out of the hole. Then you scoop it up with the net. The tool doesn’t really have enough grab to lift it out of the hole usually, unless you hook it just right. In any case, all heads just drop down into the hole and twist to install and twist to remove. When they don’t want to come out easily, they may be damaged. Use the tool to remove heads (not screwdrivers), or you may damage them yourself!
SO, there you have it – 10 ways that your in-floor pool cleaner system may attempt to befuddle you, and hopefully at least 10 ways to counter the issue, troubleshoot the problem and fix your in-floor pool cleaner!
Is there a higher volume check valve type plug to blow out my paramount floor cleaner six zones
I was hoping to use a cyclone air blower to blow out the lines with higher volume
Hi Pete, you can use the Cyclone, hold the hose over the port, and once it is blowing well, very quickly remove the hose and plug the port (fast!). that’s how I do it. There is no plug that would work with the cyclone.
Question about rotation around pool:
I have 6 zones. I could swear they used to rotate in order clockwise, making their way around the pool. After having work done, now the zones go in a different order. One zone will go at the end of the pool, next zone at other end, then side, then spa, then other side. Does the rotation order matter?
(Also, my swan and solar globes would float around the entire pool before, and now they just sit at the beach entry and never go to other sections of the pool. Is this related?)
Hi there. In a traditional setup, the jets work to push the dirt from shallow end to deep. So in a pool that has some length to it, first would be shallow steps, then shallow floor, mid-floor, then deep end, to push the dirt toward the deep end. But it could be different, for a different shape or size pool. Not sure why they would switch, unless the top paddle wheel was flipped over, so that it spins in the opposite direction with the water flow. You could open up the valve and flip it back over if you want.
Hi
We have an infloor cleaning system in our concrete pool. Recently it has become very loud like it has air in it. The pop ups are working fine but they seem very noisey
Hi, there is likely some debris inside of the valve, or it could be air. Air can draw into the filter system, always before the impeller, and usually either the pump lid or the pipe that screws into the pump. Open up the air bleeder on the filter, and let all the air escape and if it is an air noise in the valve, it should stop.
my in floor cleaning system (jets) used to be very powerful when on the high setting. The jets barely rotate the water now. Everything sits on the edge of the pool. Seems like there isn’t a low and high setting anymore, just barely on. Any suggestions?
Hi Gretchen, if the system is cycling thru all of the banks of jets, then at least that’s good. For low flow, there often is a strainer located before the valve unit, to catch any debris, This often is located inside of a union fitting. Otherwise, check the pump basket, pump impeller, and filter for cleanliness or an obstruction. Check that all valves are open. If you have wall returns also, switch to all wall returns and see if the flow is the same – if so, further evidence that it is not a infloor valve problem, but problem with pump or filter or even could be an air leak, in front of the pump, drawing air instead of water.
We are getting ready to put in a pool. One of the companies we are considering is urging us to get a separate pump for the pop up cleaners. Is it necessary?
Maybe not necessary or usual, but would allow the system to operate independently of the filter, and not put backpressure on the filter pump or filter. I like the idea, although I’ve never seen it in action.
We are also looking to heat our pool and trying to understand the efficiency and cost benefit of Pentair 400k ETI v BTU heater. Is it just the speed to which it heats or will it save money in the long run?
The ETI heater is a hybrid heat pump and gas heater. It will use the heat pump heating when it can, when outside air temps are above 65 degrees or so, and when colder, it will switch to the more expensive natural or propane gas heat, using about 4 gals per hour of operation. Which may cost, let’s say $12/hr. The heat pump, by comparison, may cost only $2.50/hr to operate (unless you have very high local electricity rates). Depending on how you use the heater, it will save money and pay back over the cost of a gas heater alone. But, given that it costs over $6K, and a gas heater only $2.5K, it will take many years for payback. If you are only heating during relatively warm months of May-Sep, just buy a heat pump. But if you want to heat nearly all year round, this will save money, in the long run, over just using a gas heater.
Hello, I have a question regarding self cleaning system (A&A).
About 5 months ago my pool replaced the gear unit which turns the pop ups. He never does this type of service, but said he would give it a try. Fast forward now, and the unit is vibrating/humming when the pops turn on on the steps? o you know what could be causing this?
Thank you!
Hi, make sure the cleaning heads are not restricted, and are popping up cleanly and easily. Secondly, when this starts, the noise, check the gear assembly for a piece of foreign material, grit in the gears…
I appreciate your reply, my pool guy will checking this out on his next visit. Hes not a repair guy, just maintenance. I noticed today the vibrating occurs when its on full speed mode, it doesn’t do in clean mode when the pump is running low speed. I will pass this info on to him and let you know what he discovers. Thanks!
could also find something loose in there, which vibrates only at higher speeds. And only when on the ‘step pop-ups
my pipe leading into the bottom plate is leaking..looks like just around the connection…will pipe cement around the pipe fix it or is it more serious..thanks
Hi Jeff, you can try to get some glue or epoxy putty or silicone on the inside, where the plate hole and the pipe come together, that may seal it up.
is it possible the o rings inside the dome were not all in….would one make it leak and where would it leak? everything else is tight…tried glue but hard to tell just where its leaking..thanks so much for your response..
Hi Jeff, those o-rings really just seal up the water valve to the bottom plate, they don’t actually seal the bottom plate to the pipes, those are a PVC cement seal.
How do I prevent debris from getting to the screen on my caretaker valve. This reduces water flow greatly.
Hi Tim, to get there is has to pass thru your pump basket and thru your pool filter, so you would want to see how to stop it from getting thru the filter. You can use a nylon stocking on the pump basket, or a skim filter on the skimmer basket. Your filter valve may also be bypassing material, or the filter could have internal issues allowing debris to bypass. In fact, I would bet on it, because it is not normal for the strainer to clog up often.
My Caretaker 99 heads will sometimes come out of the pool floor. I double check with my tool that they are secure, but sometimes will come out.
Hi Bob, usually that is a worn tab(s) on the side of the head. Replacing the head is the usual fix.
Hi, I have a Polaris in-floor cleaner that’s about 8/9 years old. It doesn’t collect any leave debris in the dedicated floor drain but the heads are all working and seem to have good pressure. Any suggestions on what to check first? Thank you!
Hi Anna, you can check that the pop-ups are facing the best direction, to direct debris towards the drain, and not overshooting it. There are different nozzle sizes that can be used, to create stronger or softer flow from the pop-ups. Even optimized, the drain will still not catch all debris, but could probably be improved.
We have a A & A 6 port in floor cleaning system. It is stuck on a zone. We replaced the gear assembly which included the gears, the washers, the shaft, the t-valve, and an o-ring for the lid. It still gets stuck. We noticed that the check valve next to the cleaner is worn and cracked. We have that on order. Can a bad check valve cause the floor cleaner to get stuck?
Also, we replaced the DE filter, o-ring, and pressure gauge. The spa also needs a new check valve. Now, when we turn off the floor cleaner and turn on the waterfalls, the spa will not fill up with water. Any advice is appreciated!
Hi Janet, the check valve, if not opening all the way, could cause some problems with flow. Are you using the strainer to strain the water before it gets to the unit? These are usually inside of a union, and is meant to stop small bits of debris that can clog the gears. The spa not filling up when waterfall and floor cleaner is on sounds normal, try closing the spa drain most of the way or all the way. Most spas keep the drain closed all the time. A bad check valve can cause low spa level too, so that may help.
Yes, the check valve solved the problem of the spa not filling! We have replaced all the gears, the shaft, the washers, and the o-ring for the quick clean system. However, it is still getting stuck. It goes through zones 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 then back to zone 4. Zone 1 is the spa. It started its cycle in the spa, circled around the pool. When it was supposed to start again in the spa, it instead skipped zones 1, 2, and 3 and went to zone 4 and stayed there. If we shut if off and start it back up, it does the same thing. Is there anything else to replace? We have the 6 port system with the clear lid (Quick Clean).
Hi Janet, check that the diverter is not damaged on the underside of the lid, and also the flappers (if your system has flappers, not balls), be sure they are not damaged or misaligned. For more help, you can call A&A, 1-800-851-8492.
I’m building a new pool and some builders we’ve talked to advise against an infloor cleaning system. They say it’s not very effective for the cost and will make the pool more prone to leaks. They recommend just getting a Polaris instead. Do you have any thoughts on this? It does seem like maintenance becomes a problem since you’re adding more parts to your pool.
Hi Mo, great question thank you. I would generally agree. They are great for circulation, which results in a cleaner pool, but for the cost – I would also rather have a Polaris with booster pump cleaner. However, if you don’t like the look of a cleaner hose in the pool all the time, this is a good option. I dont know that they are very prone to leaking, that’s not been my experience, although they certainly can. They do require extra steps for winterizing the pool, but maybe that’s not a problem for you. I am not opposed to an in-floor cleaner system, but if you have heavy tree debris around the pool, a Polaris may deal with it more effectively.
Just had my pool replastered and have removed all of the in floor directional heads as that was a recommendation from the pool plaster folks. However I have had trouble determining when to put the heads back in – 7 -10, 14 days or more after refilling and doing all of the care required for new plaster. Do you have a recommendation?
Yes, I would wait even 30 days, and the reason why is that some of the floor jets can be quite forceful, and I’d be scared that it may produce some markings or shadings in the range of jet motion, if the plaster was not solidly cured yet. I wonder what they advised, 14-days? If they have a recommendation, I would go with that.
I have a summer waves sand filter on my brand new pool and we initially back washed and rinsed like the manufacture suggested to get the sand seeded and then we started our filter. When the filter was first turned on there was a huge amount of pressure and with in 30 seconds there was zero pressure. We turned unit off and then back on and it pressure was huge then it stopped again. We cannot figure out what is going on? It is a brand new sand pump. Is the pump broken or am I doing something wrong???
Jayne, sounds like an air leak, somewhere before the pump, maybe a loose hose, or loose pump lid, or loose adapter, or union nut without an o-ring, something on the suction side, infront of the pump, is leaking air. Or the pool water level is too low. Or the hose is crimping.
In think my pool cleaner is taking off some of the marsonite on my pool. Thoughts?
Hi Pat, that could be possible, marcite is a soft subtance, and if your pool cleaner travels over one spot repeatedly, and perhaps runs too often, I suppose that could happen. However it is not common, and not something that I’ve ever noticed, personally.
Hi,
I have a paramount 6 port in floor system. I just tried to replace the old module (it was 13 yrs old, cracked, not doing much) but when I ran the filter the pressure surged 15+ psi. My filter typically runs at 19 psi starting (after backwash/fresh DE). It has never run above 30 psi- in fact, the pressure release valve on my heater is set at 30, and it’s the original one, so this has been the case since the former owner installed the pool. Something’s not right here. Could a pipe be obstructed? Thank you.
Hi Jon, using the floor cleaner will typically raise pressure by a few psi, but 15+ does sound like an obstruction, and if so, the pressure should drop when it moves to the next pipe. If you winterize your pool, there may be a winterization plug that got caught down there, and often it will be stuck at the 90 fitting, just a foot or so underground. A flashlight, or a snake camera can verify. If so, it may be grabbed with a long mechanics grab-tool, or blown out backwards with water pressure (removing all pop-ups in the bank, plugging all but one, and using a Drain King, to pressurize the line)
I have a Heyward filter and noticed when I was vacuuming in on the waste setting that water was coming back through the return. Is that normal or signs of a problem?
David, that would be a problem with the multiport valve, specifically the spider gasket probably. Remove all of the screws and lift up on the handle, to pull off the cover and rotor assembly, then inspect the gasket on the bottom of the rotor. It is likely worn. You can replace the rotor, or replace the entire “Key/Seal assembly” or everything that came out, which is a much easier repair.
I read some of ur answers and I am not sure what u r saying.
I had someone test my caretaker system by plugging the heads in the pool and filling the pipes up to the master 5 way cylinder and plugging. There are apparently about 9 zones with about 20-25heads.
The the pool guy unplugged at the lines at the cylinder, it seems that about or 6 of the lines and about 15 heads are leaking
Is there a way to fax and is it worth it?
Do I just abandon the entire system and if so how do i.plug all these holes permanently?
Thanks
Greg G
845 304-1234
YEs, you should abandon, if there is that much going on. I assume you have wall returns that you can use instead, then just remove all the heads, fill each pipe with concrete, and let it cure for a few days, then cover each with a 1/2″ of pool plaster mix, and fill the pool immediately, they will cure underwater. Cut the pipes below the valve head, at ground level, and glue a cap onto each of the six pipes.
Hello, we have a paramount in-floor system that has been working great for 9 year. Now we notice that the headsets don’t have enough water pressure and not cleaning properly. Any ideas as to what may be causing this?
Maria, most in-floor systems have a strainer that needs cleaning, usually its located in the PVC union, above the cleaner head. Or, it could be that flow is reduced to the heads because the main pool filter is clogged or having trouble (is the filter pressure high?). Or, if you also have wall returns, the problem could be that too much water flow is going to the walls. Close the valve to divert more water to the cleaner head. Also could be a clogged pump impeller, if flow rates in general are down, and filter psi pressure is lower than normal.
I have a fiberglass pool with a vantage plus inground system. The drain doesn’t have a cover. I am hoping to find what cover I need and how to install it.
Hi Barbara, most residential pool drain covers have the screws 6″ apart, and the drain covers are 8″ in diameter. Hayward is most common, but there are others. The Hayward VGB WG1048 is most common nowadays and retrofits to many old drains. See if you can measure the screw hole distance. You will need stainless steel screws and be sure the screw holes are not filled with sand, flush it out with air or water pressure. https://www.intheswim.com/c/safety-drain-covers
Hi, I have a Master Pools In-Ground Cleaning system.
I want to replace the Valve Cycling Cluster (5-port)with something other than that. I am continously chewing up gears.
(Every 2 weeks), + the gears & parts are quite expensinve in comparison to other brands.
By the way it is operating, I feel the outer gear teeth in the housing is worn out.
Does any of the other Mfgrs make a 5-port valve that will retrofit in place of the Master Pools valve-port assy?
Thank you
Hi, I believe that you could use the Caretaker 5-port valve to replace the Master Pools valve. The pipes spacing may be slightly different? I don’t have measurements, but they look very close.
Davy, Can one replace the in ground pool pvc pipe that the pop up goes in without draining the pool? Thanks
It could be done, by removing the pop-ups and plugging each hole in that bank or set of pop-ups. Then you could replace the pipe, up to the point where it goes under the pool. Not an easy job. If you are talking about replacing just the part that the pop-up fits into, you’d have to drain the pool, so you could use a small jackhammer.
Hi! I have a Paramount in floor system and I have a leak in the Jacuzzi side that I’ve isolated to the popups. Am I able to just replace the nozzles with Pool Valet Retro Pressure Test Plugs (004-502-1642-00) to isolate that side. The pool side does not leak. Thanks!
Hi Rob, the pressure test plugs are used to pressure test the lines for leaking, using a pressure testing stick in the corresponding pipe, back by the system, on the filter valve plate. So you pull out the complete pop-up and then insert pressure test plugs into all of the pop-ups on that branch, and then you can verify a leak. These could also be used as dummy plugs or blanks, to abandon a branch, along with replumbing the pipe at the system, using a Tee fitting to reroute the pipe into an adjacent pipe, so that one branch would be powered twice as long (with two pipes). Hope that makes sense! Good luck!
Hi,
I have an older pool with an AA manufacturing system type 1 popups and a 5 port top feed valve. The system is stuck on one zone. There are no other returns to the pool other than the cleaner pop ups. The cleaner valve and equipment sit about 6 feet under the waterline. Can I service or replace this valve without having to drain the pool? Will the popups prevent water from gushing out if I remove the band clamp?
Thanks
Hi Dennis, below water level, huh? And I guess there are not valves on each port line. I’m not sure if the pop-ups will seal up water from the pool, maybe I would loosen the clamp band but not remove it, and see if water gushes continuously… and if so, tighten it up again. The stuck on one zone issue is likely with the cleaner valve gears, or propeller, something is jammed up in there, so you’ll have to get that lid off to repair… let us know what happens?
Hi, I just had my pool resurfaced. After the water was back in I turned everything back on but the pop-ups aren’t coming up. Is there something I need to do to prime the pop-up system to start moving water? I have one pump for the whole pool and the pop-ups are tied into that. It worked before I had it resurfaced so I’m assuming it is my error. I tried it on skimmer and on main drain and nothing pops up. I took apart the gear mechanism and inspected and put back together and manually spun it and it worked. I’m at a loss. Please help.
Hi Ben, is the filter pressure normal? If lower than normal, it could be a clogged pump impeller or obstruction before the pump, and if higher than normal, it could be a dirty filter or obstruction after the impeller. Is it possible that the plasterers were sloppy and grouted the pop-ups closed? Probably not… Do you have a return side valve to adjust flow between the wall returns and the floor pop-ups? Are wall returns turned off? Is the gear assembly mechanism spinning and changing ports? Are any parts missing for the mechanism?
The pump is slightly larger than the old one that died, as far as gpm. I have had the heads out many times and the only thing I have found is some teeth have slight damage however, when I have them out, clean them etc the do turn as I manually manipulate them.
Hi Greg, maybe the nozzles are missing or need to be reduced in size? The nozzles are silicone pieces that have orifices of different sizes. A smaller orifice will increase pressure, and thus should increase the spin. Your nozzles are perhaps too large, or missing outright? Really just a theory… it could also be the teeth, or grit/sand stuck in the pop-up, or leakage at the head unit, so that water is entering two pipes at once (check that all o-rings are in place on the bottom of the head unit, to seal up each pipe). Let us know what you find, if you get it fixed I’m curious!
My pop ups are cycling through the zones however none of the heads rotate which results in dirt collecting outside of that cone created by the water flow. I have replaced the caretaker valve and the pump is new. Any ideas where to start?
Hi Greg, since the valve is new, I would inspect the pop-up heads, to be sure the nozzle is in place, and that debris has not clogged the interior, reducing flow. Check that the wall returns are not open, so that all flow is going to the head valve unit. Is the pump the same as before? If not, perhaps it has less flow than the old pump?
I recently moved into a home that has a paramount in floor cleaning system . It seems the previous owner removed all the heads and cut off power to the paramount system. I’m guessing he was having issues. Is it possible to close the 3 holes that sit at the bottom of my pool where the pop up heads used to be? Could I possibly purchase some sort of cap? I could seek out having the system repaired but was told it would be quite costly. Pool runs great without the pop ups but it sure is ugly looking at the 3 holes throughout the pool.
Hi Mark, yes I understand. You could fill them in with cement and top them off with a plaster mix, but that would be easiest done with the pool drained. Or fill it full of gravel, and top it with Fast Set plaster, which can be applied underwater. You could also replace the pop-up heads, about $50 each. Third would be to find some sort of cap that fits, and glue it in place. Could be the bottom of a cylindrical shampoo bottle (white), for example, or anything that fits well. I don’t know of a dummy cap that is made for this purpose, however.
At this point it seems like the best route would be to replace the heads and get the system running again. Do you know if the pool would need to be drained for this process? By the way…. this is an awesome blog! Very pleased to have found this as I am a new pool owner. Two weeks in so far. It is quite the learning process.
Mark, you do not need to drain the pool to replace the pop-up heads, you can just jump-in with a mask and quickly insert them with a push and quarter-turn. They also make a tool that fits on the end of your pool pole, an installation/removal tool, but if the water is warm, it is easier to get in the pool to do it. Thanks for the kudos – keep on reading! 🙂
The infloor system was in place when I bought the house. The actuator unit is leaking bad and stuck pushing water out of all the floor units. I already have a vacuum going around the pool doing a great job. Can I remove the actuator and add a couple tees to continue the flow? I don’t want to pay $400-500 for a part I don’t really need.
Hi Matt, yes you can abandon the in-floor cleaner. Most systems have a valve to select between floor cleaner and wall returns. If so, you can just turn the valve to direct all of the return water to the wall returns. If not, you can bypass the system, removing the water valve and sending water to 2 or 3 of the pipes, preferably one shallow, mid-depth and deep end, for best circulation. If you are in the snowbelt, give some thought to winterizing, perhaps installing unions on the lines used, so you can still blow out the lines separately, and using non-glued PVC caps on the unused pipes.
Hello, question for you on the pop ups.
I’ve got the Jandy/Zodiac heads and I’m not getting good enough flow or pressure in one zone. The fact that the other zones work well has me perplexed. Even after having filters professionally cleaned, pressures good at the valve etc.
I can see on a couple of the heads in shallow water there is leakage around the head when it is extended. The surface of the water is turbulent. I can imagine there is always some but I Put my hand in there and there is quite a bit of flow all around the head right at the pool surface. Are there o-rings that can or should be used to eliminate this? It seems like such a waste of flow and energy I’m wondering how to fix it.
Thank you
Hi Ryan, the pop-up heads themselves don’t have o-rings, but each port on the water valve does have an o-ring, and if the o-ring goes missing to seal the head valve to the plate/pipe, then it could leak some water, inside the head, perhaps reducing pressure to the pop-ups. If that’s not a problem, I would wonder if the pop-up heads lost their nozzle, which is a silicon insert designed to focus the flow, and create the spinning action, one or more may be missing. Third, sometimes the pop-ups themselves become worn around the sides and need replacement.
My floor system motor is out which is quoted $550.
But my pool guy said that I have too much debris and leaves for this floor system to work effectively without continuing to break. (This is 2nd motor in 3 -4 years.)
He recommends a pressure cleaner with its pump …+ labor total cost of $1500.
Is this the long-term, cost effective way to go?
Hi Kay, for heavy leaf debris, a pressure pool cleaner is the best type to have, and $1500 is not a bad price. I’m not sure what the motor is, do you mean the water valve gear assembly? These can have problems, but do not wear-out from heavy leaves, and should last much longer than 3-4 years. Pressure cleaners also need regular repairs, prob. $75 in parts every year, then every 10 years a new booster pump or entire cleaner, which can set you back $550 or so… I would say, if you are happy with the level of cleanliness and performance with the infloor system, keep it operational. If not, and you would like to have a cleaner pool, with less work on your part, go with the pressure cleaner (Polaris or Kreepy Legend). Switching will cost more money in the long run, but the pool will be cleaner, also the filter system will operate at a lower pressure, without going through the floor pop-ups, which is better for a few reasons…