Every summer, tens of thousands of Intex pools are set up and filled, with dreams of long afternoons spent splashing and relaxing in a private backyard pool. And then it hits you: “How do I keep the water clean and clear? What chemicals do I need for my Intex pool? Help!?!”
Not to worry! You’ve come to the right place. Whether you have a small Easy Set pool or a big Ultra Frame pool, keep reading to learn how to balance, sanitize, and disinfect your Intex pool water.
Intex Pool Water Balance
Let’s start with the basics. Pool water balance refers to the levels of pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness. Balanced water is less likely to become cloudy or green. This important part of water maintenance also protects your vinyl Intex pool, and is more comfortable for swimmers. Before getting started, test the water with an at-home test kit or test strips (more on that below).
pH
Remember that pH is the key to a healthy pool. When pH rises above 7.8, your chlorine becomes less effective, and the potential for stains and scale formation increases. Likewise, a pH under 7.2 is considered acidic, and may cause skin and eye irritation as well as corrode pool equipment. Unbalanced pH is hard on vinyl Intex pools, and this damage is not covered under warranty. Use pH Reducer to lower pH levels or pH Increaser to raise levels into the ideal range of 7.4-7.6.
Total Alkalinity
Total Alkalinity (TA) affects pH and is best in the range of 80-120 ppm (parts per million). When TA is too low, pH becomes erratic and unstable, and when too high, the pH is difficult to adjust. When your TA is not in range, adjust this first before addressing pH. Use pH Reducer if TA is over 120 ppm. If TA is under 80 ppm, the product you use depends on pH levels. When both TA and pH are very low (TA less than 80 ppm, pH below 6.8), make sure your pool water is free of metals, then add pH Increaser. If only TA is low, use Alkalinity Increaser to bring the levels up.
Calcium Hardness
Calcium Hardness is the measure of how hard or soft the pool water is, and has an ideal range of 200-400 ppm. Hardness levels tend to fluctuate more slowly than pH or Chlorine levels, so you won’t need to address it as often. Soft water (below 150 ppm) tends to become cloudy or foamy easily, so raise the levels with Calcium Hardness Increaser. High Calcium Hardness levels above 600 ppm may cause scale buildup, especially if your pH is unbalanced. You can help keep that excess calcium in check with a scale prevention product. Or, if draining the pool is a feasible option, you can always start over with fresh water in your Intex pool if the Calcium Hardness gets above 800 ppm.
Intex Pool Sanitizers
Once the pool is open, it is extremely important to maintain a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the water. Check the levels at least 2-3 times a week with test strips or a test kit. Free Available Chlorine (FAC) should be no lower than 1.0 ppm at the absolute minimum. For the greatest protection against algae, bacteria, and cloudy water, Intex pools should maintain a chlorine level of 2.0-4.0 ppm at all times.
If you opted for the Intex Salt Chlorinator, you can make your own chlorine by adding the correct amount of Pool Salt to the water. Otherwise, most Intex pools use 3″ chlorine tablets in a floating chlorinator. Use 1-3 tablets at a time, depending on your pool size. You’ll need enough to establish and maintain proper chlorine levels. Small Intex pools under 12′ in diameter should use 2-4 of the 1″ tablets in a chlorine floater.
In addition to everyday chlorination of your Intex pool, you may have heard of shocking the pool. This refers to raising the chlorine level above 10 ppm by adding a granular chlorine powder, also known as pool shock. When Total Available Chlorine (TAC) levels are 0.3 ppm or more above your Free Available Chlorine (FAC) level, it’s time to shock the pool. Most pools need to be shocked at least once per week to remove Combined Chlorine (chloramines) and maintain proper sanitizer levels in the water. Always read and follow label instructions when shocking the pool.
Other Intex Pool Chemicals
Maintaining a good pH level and consistent chlorine reading is good enough for some pools. But with a small pool filter and high pool use, your water may need additional help.
Algaecides are used to prevent algae growth in a pool. Added weekly, the liquid works to dissolve algae’s outer protective layers so that chlorine can penetrate and kill it.
Clarifiers help small pool filters trap tiny particles. They coagulate fine contaminants into larger clumps that are more easily trapped by your Intex pool filter. If you’re struggling with cloudy pool water issues and the water is properly balanced, try using a clarifier to turn the water crystal clear again.
Enzymes work wonders for dissolving oily bather waste and other non-living organic contaminants. These contaminants are often the culprits for cloudy water, and they can gum up small cartridge filters. Enzymes break them down and help your sanitizer work more efficiently.
Intex Pool Water Testing
Testing the pool water is the only way to know if your water balance and sanitizers are at the right levels. I would recommend daily testing at first, until you come to understand how your pH and chlorine levels fluctuate, then you can reduce testing to 2-3x per week.
I took a look at Intex pool purchases over the past 5 years, to find out the most popular water testing kits for Intex pools, shown below, all under $20.
4-Way Test Kit 7-Way Test Strips Taylor 3-Way Test Kit
Intex Pool Filtration
A word on Intex pool filters would be appropriate. Filtration and circulation directly affect water balance and sanitation, with all components working together for clean and clear water. The standard Intex filters that come with the pool are often marginal in size and performance, and may need to run 18-24 hours per day to keep water clean.
When Intex pools turn cloudy or green, first check the chemistry and chlorine levels, but then also increase your daily filtration. This is the only way to correct and prevent poor water quality.
Many Intex pool owners struggle with maintaining their filter the first year, and seek to upgrade their filter. It’s so common we wrote an entire post about it: Intex Pool Filter Pump Upgrades.
Final Tips
As you may have already guessed, chemicals needed for an Intex pool are the same for any other pool type. You’ll just need less due to a smaller pool size. On that note, it’s important to know your pool size in gallons. Pool chemical labels often instruct you to add “X” amount per 10,000 gallons. Intex pools are often much less than 10,000 gallons, so you may have to do a little math! No matter what type of chemical you’re adding, remember to ALWAYS read and follow label instructions.
That’s all there is to it! Remember to keep your skimmer and pump baskets free of debris, and clean the pool filter regularly. Use a leaf rake and/or a small pool vacuum to remove large debris from the pool as needed. Now get out there and enjoy summer with your new Intex pool!
OK so I just filled my new 14ft x 43inch. intex prism pool. Water is is perfect and clear and I tested. It with test strip and they all look good except for total and free chlorine which read 0 since I haven’t added anything to the pool yet.so all I have to do is add chlorine tablets to feeder and that’s it for now? Or is there another way I’m Suppose to raise My chlorine levels?
Brittany, the tablets may take a few days to reach a level of protection. If you have some granular chlorine, it would be best to add a few tablespoons now to boost the level. Another way is to crush a few 1″ tablets in a bag with a hammer, into dust, then dissolve them in a pail of water, then pour the solution into the pool.
I have a 10′ x 30″ Intex pool that I’m using 1″ chlorine tabs in. I had some algae on the bottom, so I brushed the bottom, cleaned the filter as best I could (since I can’t find any Type H replacements right now!) and have been running the filter nonstop all week. My water is still green. Do I need to shock it?
Yes, when the water is green that means the algae is winning. Make sure the pH level is low, around 7.2, and shock it to a high level of near 30 ppm. IF it is so green you almost can’t see the bottom, drain and refill the pool.
Hi. I bought an 18 ft x 48″ Intex pool . 6423 gallons of water. It’s filled with water. Now what? I have no one to help me with this, so bear with me as I am learning to care for an above ground pool. What do I need to add to the water. Please take me step by step as I am confused and lost by so many articles to read on the web. Thank you in advance. Also, the water has been in the pool for about 3 days with one tablet in a chlorine floater floating around.
Hi Alisa, run the filter nearly non-stop. Check chlorine and pH every day, until you understand the fluctuations that can occur with your particular pool (every pool is different, slightly…) Run high chlorine levels (2-3 ppm) and low pH levels (7.2-7.6). Don’t worry about alkalinity unless you can’t control your pH. Don’t worry about calcium hardness. Add cyanuric acid (Stabilizer) at a rate of 1 lb per 3000 gallons, for pools in bright sun. Stabilizer protects chlorine from solar degradation. add label recommended dosage of clarifier and algaecide each week, likely just 1+ oz of each. Keep a clean pool, don’t let debris sit there, get at it. Brush, Skim, Vacuum. Good housekeeping. Enjoy.
I just got an Intex 10×30 Pool that came with the filter system. I got it all hooked up today and then it hit me that I won’t be changing the water every few days like I usually would with our smaller Pool. My question is what should I be using to keep the water clean? It’s my first time having a pool this big and I have no clue what to do! Pls help thanks!!
Edith, keep a chlorine level of 2-3 ppm, a pH level of 7.2-7.6, and add weekly additions of clarifier and algaecide. Run the filter nearly 24/7. Use a skimmer net, brush and vacuum to remove debris.
Hi, hoping for some advice…
We have a 10 x 6 ft pool, cya lvls very high which has impacted on chlorine lvl (0). Ph fine at 7.6 and alkaline also OK. Pool being used daily. I use 200g multifunctional tablets in floating dispenser on setting 2.
I Just bought a submersible pump to help drain half the water and to get rid of the cya issue.(fingers crossed)
The pump cartridge is also really struggling, I’m having to change it every day even though the pool has been vacuumed weekly /skimmed daily etc.
My question is how much chlorine Granules should I use to shock the pool once I’ve drained /replaced half of the water. I used 18g to get to 2ppm but no affect previously.
Any advice about the cartridge would be great too. (530g/h) been using a filter sock last few days which has been great to ease the pressure on the pump.
PS thanks in advance for your help and time giving advice to numpties like myself!
Hi David, that 530 gph filter is very small, and the cartridges don’t last very long (Intex suggests replacing them every 30 days with new). You could upgrade to the 1000 GPH, if you can find one! Maybe next season. For the chlorine granules dosage, visit poolcalculator.com and you can enter your gallonage, and get exact dosage amounts, for a variety of sanitizer chemicals. We also have some chemical charts on this post: https://blog.intheswim.com/pool-chemical-levels-and-chemical-charts/
Hi-we have a new 15 foot intex pool-4400 gallons this year-all has been great-with alkalinity staying strong about 80 and pH 7.2
We are in full sun and have had a hot summer and pool is usually 88/90 degrees-it’s been crystal clear until a few days ago when it just turned cloudy. Alk and pH were still fine-but acid demand was thought to be off-added lemon juice-long story we are back at Alk 82 and pH 7.4-chlorine. In the 5 range but recently shocked,
Brought it to pool store-they our phosphates were high at 895 and hardness low at 34-super nice guy at pool store said because we didn’t have a heater don’t worry about hardness and phosphate was fine at 800-didn’t rec we use the remover. Pool is still cloudy-definitely had some algae-but I’ve been scrubbing vacuuming and cleaning filter for past 3 days. We know the filter is small-but what do you think about the low calcium? Can that make it cloudy? How much to add-and none of my kits test for calcium (strips I have aren’t accurate) Thoughts on the phosphate? Thank you! we are pandemic pool first time owners!
the problem is likely the filter, even if you run it 24/7, it may still be cloudy. It could also be cloudy from the phosphates, but phosphate removers need a good filter to work, which is probably why pool store guy didn’t recommend using one. 4400 gallons? I would suggest draining and refilling, half or more of the pool. That is the cheapest, fastest and easiest solution going.
Hi,
I have a 15ftx42in above ground pool (approx 3740 gallons), that about 2 days after rain turned yellowish (there seems to be some algae in the pool). I tested for chlorine levels and they were near zero. I add a shock and the filter/pump have been running for about 12 hours but the yellow color is not gone. The chlorine levels are high (above 5ppm). Should I continue with the same process for a longer time? Should I increase chlorine levels? Should I add an algaecide? Something else?
Thanks.
Hi Pablo, check that the pH is low, if above 7.6, lower it to 7.2, where chlorine is most potent. Then shock it with 1.3 lbs of shock (yes!), one and one-third bags, to get the chlorine level up around 30 ppm. Brush the pool and run the filter non-stop, 24/7. Clean the filter as needed. Add Clarifier after a few days to help the filter.
I have a soft sided 10×30 pool with an upgraded 1500 gph cartridge filter I use 3 inch chlorine tabs in a floater and try to keep my pump running almost 24 hrs a day. The water has stayed clear and the pool has never gotten slimy, never seen any algae etc. The only issue is the water does tend to make swimmer’s eyes red and burns a little and the pool smells like chlorine. So… I don’t know what, if anything, I need to add to my pool water. I tested water again and Free Chlorine is still dark purple (10 or above) the alkalinity was at 80 (the strip was a bit lighter so the alkalinity may be a little lower than 80) and it’s hard to match the pH color, but it looked like it was in the “ok” range, around 7.8. Thank you very much.
Hi Lee, normally the red eyes and chlorine smell would be from a high level of combined chlorine (Chloramines), which are removed by shocking the pool. In your case however, they can also be from a very high chlorine level and a high pH level can also irritate eyes (7.8 is on the high side). Stop adding chlorine, and allow the level to drop naturally, and add some pH reducer, to get closer to the low end of the range, 7.2.
Thank you VERY much for the super quick reply! Awesome service:)
I’m getting ready to add some pH reducer right now.
Thanks again!
Can I mix calcium hypochlorite
And sodium hypochlorite
Hi Billy, not together of course, but you can add both to the pool at the same time. In fact, I have found that there seems to be some synergy, or enhanced effect, when using both. On very green pools, we like to add 5-gals of 12% bleach, and 5 lbs of shock – seems to produce a better result than double of either alone.
I bought an Intex 12×30 Prism frame pool which holds 1700 gallons. I added 1lb of shock because the pool sides and bottom were getting slimy. Was this too much shock?
Yes, that is too much. 1/4 bag would be more suitable or 3-4 oz for a shocking of around 10 ppm. No worries though, chlorine should come down soon! I would avoid swimming until the level is around 5-7 ppm.
Hello. Just set up Intex 8’ pool little over a week ago. Added only 1’ tab to floater, and have shocked once. Didn’t have filter initially but do now but haven’t been running it non-stop —will change that today based on reading other comments/answers. Water has mostly been ok but we seem to have tons small white, cloudy stuff floating around. Any idea what this may be?
Thank you!
Hi little bird, the white stuff may be what I call ‘shock dust’ or residue from the granular chlorine. It should filter out eventually. I think that just one 1″ tablet may not be enough, but your test kit will tell you for sure. A small amount of Clarifier (per label dose) will help coagulate the suspended particles so the filter can more easily trap them, if needed.
Hi I have a 8ft fast pool (not intex) just different brand. I haven’t got a filter but have multifunction chlorine tablets and a floater. Hoping to keep the pool up for a week, is it OK to just put tablet in thr floater and how many ?
Hi Kim, yes the multi-tabs are fine to use, Just put one tablet into the floater. Test the water every few days to be sure the level is 2-3 ppm. Run the filter non-stop 24/7 if possible, and using a weekly dose of Clarifier and Algaecide is also recommended. You also should raise the chlorine level very high every week or two, (shock treatment) to kill any bacteria and remove byproducts or compounds that consume chlorine and oxidize contaminants. Use 2 tablespoons of pool shock, or 14 oz of regular bleach.
I recently purchased a 8ft x 30in pool it has a filter, it states ot holds 629 gallons of water. How much of chlorine tablets would it need and how frequently. How do I start with the ph levels and I also read baking soda works for alkalinity.I purchased some clarifier+algaecide to prevent algae I have no idea how much to put in and how frequently. I’m not sure how to start with the maintenance I really don’t want to be changing water since I feel like it’s a good bit.
Hi Pamela, all of the pool chemicals have dosage instructions printed on the label, how much and how often. Usually they are given like: “Add x amount, per 10,000 gals of pool water, every x days” 639 is 6.39% of 10,000. So, multiply the dosage listed on the bucket or bottle by .0639 to calculate your dosage. For chlorine tablets, most 8 ft INtex pools will need 3-5 tablets, but your test kit will tell you if you are using too much or too little. Shoot for 2-3 ppm. If you test more than that, use fewer tablets, if you test less than that, use more tablets. The amount of tablets needed varies from pool to pool, and week to week, as the weather, temperature, pool use, debris load changes over the season. For pH levels, start with testing the pH level. If low, add pH increaser – if high, add ph decreaser, to keep it in the 7.2-7.6 range.
I just opened a 15×33 Intex Easy Set. I know nothing about maintaining a pool. I bought 3″ chlorine tablets and a floater. The directions say to dissolve the tablets in water before adding. Did that mean I should forgo the floater? I purchased test kits too. Another question, I’m assuming the filter should be plugged in and on at all times. That includes when occupied, correct?
Hi Chris, yes run the filter all the time, perhaps especially when using the pool, and especially during the hottest, sunniest part of the day. Dissolving tablets in water before adding does not make sense, are you sure directions say to do that? Just place 1 or 2 tabs in a floater, and set it in the pool. They will take a day to dissolve enough to have a testable level in the water, so if needed, you can add a few ounces of granular chlorine, to kick things off. Start testing your water every day, until you build your knowledge level of how it fluctuates and how to respond. Enjoy! 🙂
We have a 15×48 prism pool and have a hard time adjusting PH it is usually high and the Chlorine low, Alkalinity high, any suggestions? Also we just got a lot of white foam today could that be from adding shock, algae at the same time?
Hi Kathy, add a pH decreaser, an acid, and that will lower both your pH and alkalinity levels. Shoot for pH of 7.2 and alkalinity of 100 ppm. Be careful not to overshoot the mark, but add small doses of 1 lb at a time or less, and then recheck the levels a few hours later.
I bought a 8 ft Intex easyset pool without a filter. Will one 3inch tablet work? Can I throw granular chlorine in before I start swimming. If so how much?
Hi, yes, to get a chlorine level started, add some shock, (granular chlorine) to the water. First dissolve it in a pail, pitcher or bucket, as adding directly to a vinyl pool may harm the vinyl over time. Your pool has about 650 gallons, use about 1 oz., or 2 tablespoons, as it will take a few days for the tablet to dissolve enough. Also, I would recommend half of a 3-inch tablet. The entire tab would be too much.
Hi there. I have the Intex easy set 8 foot pool. The calcium hardness is zero. I bought some calcium hardness increaser but I do not know how much to add?
Hello C, are you sure that calcium hardness is zero? That would be highly unusual and doubtful. Maybe take a test sample to a pool store for a comparison? For your size pool, add 1 oz of calcium chloride to raise it 10 ppm. Proper level is 180-220 ppm.
I have 12ft x 33inches i am using 3 small multi-pool tablets the Ph & Alkalinity is ok but at the high end of ok however its showing no chlorine what should i do.
My kids say they have a sore throat after swimming is this the cause?
Hi Jackie, I would shock the pool with chlorine, adding a double dose, per package label. Also be sure the pH level is on the low side, 7.2 – 7.4 or so. This should raise the chlorine level up high, but if at zero the following morning, shock it again. Unsure about the kids throats. If still having trouble with the tablets showing a level, increase the number of tablets used. If the pool is very sunny, you may add 1 lb of cyanuric acid, as a Stabilizer, to protect it from depletion by the sun.
I have a small pool – 5×7 and am planning to add 1 inch tabs to a floater and dump it once a week until I’m able to get a pump and filter. How long do we need to wait to swim after I put the floater with the tabs in? Thanks!!
Hi Stefanie, you may need to add a few ounces of bleach if you have it, or a few tablespoons of granular chlorine (shock) to the water to ‘set it off’, or you could smash up a tablet or two in a ziploc with a hammer into a fine dust, pour it into a glass of water to dissolve fully, then pour it into the pool. It can take a day or two for the tablets to dissolve enough to build up a residual of chlorine.
Hi I just set up my 15’x42″ intex frame pool. Should I use a 3″ tablet? Water capacity is just under 4,000 gallons. Is there anything else I should add? When do I need to shock the pool? Do I need test strips? 1st time owner, thank you.
Hi – use the 3″ tablet in a floater, and replace it before it dissolves completely. Use test strips to test for chlorine and pH level, every other day or so. Shock the pool for A-B-C (ALgae, Bacteria, Cloramines or cloudy water), or just every two weeks if everything looks good. (Bacteria and chloramines are not visible, but if you suspect bacteria, from heavy pool use by people who should have showered first :-), or from animals, or if something looks not right, or if eyes are burning and the pool smells strongly of chlorine [chloramines]). Also use shock if you forget to replace the tablet and chlorine drops to zero. Strive for a constant and consistent level of chlorine, 2-3 ppm, all the time, 24/7, and a low pH where chlorine is most potent, and algae does not like, 7.2-7.4 range. I also recommend weekly additions of algaecide and clarifier, per bottle label, to help with the (marginally sized) filters that come with the pool.
I bought a 12X30 metal frame above ground swimming pool with out a filter. Is it ok if I only add 5 ounces of chlorine every 5 days? Or do I need to do more?
Luis, I don’t think that would be enough. You will want to have a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the water, at least 2 or 3 ppm, 24/7, all the time. When it drops low, the water will turn hazy, then cloudy, then green, all within a day. Test strips or test kit will tell you exactly how much chlorine to add, to maintain a constant level. Test every day for a week, then you will know how much to use. You can also use poolcalculator.com, to help with dosage amounts for the number of gallons in the pool.
Hi! I have the 16 X 32 x 52 with the salt water system with sand filter. Do we ever need to shock it or add any chlorine? Will it hurt anything if we do add chlorine or shock it?
Yes you will need to shock the pool with chlorine. Remember that a salt system produces chlorine, it IS a chlorine pool, you are simply making your own chlorine instead of buying it in a bucket. Yet, you still need to shock the pool, to remove (oxidize) contaminants that are not removed by your daily (lower) chlorine level, and to remove chlorine byproducts such as chloramines, and to be sure that no bacteria exists that has been able to avoid or tolerate your daily chlorine level, created by your salt system. Some salt systems have a “Shock” feature, but it is too slow and it puts a large demand on the salt cell, shortening the life. And, if your pump or salt cell has problems, no chlorine is created, none. Another reason to always keep some pool shock on hand, when you have a salt system.
I just got my 12 ft x 30 inter pool. How much of the tablets will I need? Also do I need to change water weekly? 1 st time owner help, thank you
Maria, you do not need to change water weekly, that advice sounds like for inflatable pools, without pump/filters. Your test kit or test strips will tell you if you are using too much or not enough chlorine. It varies, depending on sun, temperature, pool usage level, bather cleanliness, debris load, pH level, daily filtration time, filter effectiveness, and invisible consumers of chlorine in the water such as phosphates, nitrates, ammonia, to name a few. This is why I cannot precisely say that a 12′ intex pool needs X amount of chlorine. However, you will probably need about 4-6 1″ tablets per week, or one 3-inch tablet per week. Test your water daily, if below 2 or 3 ppm, add more, if above 2 or 3 ppm, you can use less.
Hi I just bought a 32x16x52 intex pool what do we need to maintain it as far as chlorine? We have a sand filter for it. This is our first pool and have no idea what need to keep clear and clean.
Hi Rosie, you will need two types, chlorine tablets and chlorine granular, aka pool shock. You will need a test kit, and a chlorine floater for the tablets. Read the comments below for more information.
I have a 12 ft L by 5 ft wide-can 1 chlorine tablet be enough and can I place tablet in jar with holes? Unable to find floater-AND should I shock it too? I purchased In The Swim tablets and shock–no pump or filter (unavailable)
You should add shock right away, to boost the chlorine level (now), and then yes you can make a DIY floater. YOu can use a jar with holes in the bottom, but need to have something in top to hold it afloat, you don’t want it to sink, or it can damage the vinyl. You can use a piece of pool noodle, or a ziploc filled with air, or balloon, or a ball. You can also use a freeze zip bag, with the corners cut out, and a piece of pool noodle in the top, to hold it aloft. To find out how much chlorine your pool needs, use your test kit, everyday. If it reads low, below 3 ppm, use more, if it reads high, use less. Also test your pH level and add acid if the pH rises above 7.8
I have an INTEX 10’x30” pool. Can I use the INTEX Krystal Clare saltwater system with this small pool?
Hi Steph, you can use a salt system… my personal opinion is that it complicates things for new pool owners, I think it’s easier to just use 1″ tablets and some shock. Salt systems do produce chlorine, and you still need to test the water, and manage good water balance, esp. pH and CYA… but yes you can use a salt system, as long as you don’t think it’s a set it and forget it kind of thing, it’s not easier, it’s not cheaper, but it is an interesting gadget to talk about at dinner parties. 🙂
Hi! I recently purchased a small 6ftx22in easy set Intex pool. While it doesn’t hold tons of water (230ish gallons) – we would like to leave it up about a week before refilling. Would we be ok just using a chlorine floater and test strips? Or do we need additional chemicals,?
Sure you can do that, if you are refilling it every week or so, just chlorine is fine, to keep it safe and fresh.
My pool has dark algae on the bottom, when I go to vacuum it up it makes my pool water cloudy. I have added shock but it still remains cloudy and algae on the bottom. My pool is 15×42, with 3,861 gallons of water. What would you recommend me doing? Or how much algaecide should I add? Please help.
Michelle, lower the pH level to 7.2, and shock it hard-er, until the algae dies. Add more chlorine, keep adding until the water turns blue. At least 1 lb of shock, or two. Algaecide won’t kill it, despite the name, use chlorine. Then, when gone, use algaecide for prevention. Run the filter longer each day as well, 24/7 if possible.
Hello, I purchased a kiddo pool around 200 gallons and bought 3 inch chlorine tabs. Is this safe for that pool?
Hi Joe, normally a 1″ tablet would be better, but you can break the 3″ tabs into smaller chunks and use them in a floater. 1/4 to 1/2 tab will likely be enough. Test the water to know, using a test kit or test strips.
Purchased 8×30 Intex. By 2nd day,the filter was dark brown all around! I removed it, cleaned it, and 2 days later, brown again! I do have chlorine float with 1 3″ tablet. After a week, it still looks ok, hasn’t fully dissolved. The water kind of appears to be a little cloudy… Not sure what to do. I’m totally lost. Please help 😟. Would you be so kind to provide me with links where I will be able to find what I need, if I need anything, i.e. a test kit perhaps? Thanks in advance!
Hi Steve, you absolutely need a test kit or test strips, some way to test chlorine level and pH level. Keep chlorine at a minimum 1.0 ppm, up to 3 ppm. keep the pH level 7.2-7.6, and if it rises higher, add an acid (dry or liquid) to bring it down. Here’s a list of products for pool owners, with our item numbers. You may not need all of these…
1. 1” Chlorine tablets > 10 lbs, item C1010 should be fine for 1 season
2. Shock – 1 oz to boost, 2 oz to shock treat. > 3 lbs Cal Hypo ‘Pool Shock’
3. Test strips > Aquachek Yellow 4-way (Cl, pH, Alk, Cya), or Taylor A8270 test it.
4. Floater > many chlorine tablet floaters to choose from
5. PH increaser > 5lbs Item Y7000
6. PH decreaser > 5lbs Item Y7100
7. Algaecide > Super Algaecide or Algaecide 60
8. Clarifier > 1 Qt Clarifier, Item Y2000
9. Stabilizer > 5lbs item Y7500, but you only need about 1 lb.
Hi if I order a kit from you how long does it take to get it In the mail
Hi Belinda, most orders are shipping within 24 hours these days, usually not same-day, but the next day. And some orders may take an additional day, as we are on reduced staff and following social distancing guidelines established for us, by our elected representatives.
Awesome thank you. One more question how often do you add chlorine and we can’t seem to get the pump to stop running loud and very little pressure
Hi Belinda, chlorine should be in the water 24/7 – you need a constant and consistent level of 1-2 ppm, all the time. This is best maintained with tablets, rather than granular which dissolves too fast, and creates peaks and valleys of chlorination. A loud pump can be vibration, cavitation or bad motor bearings. Low pressure can be normal, in systems with very little resistance. Low pressure = high flow, generally speaking, or it can also indicate an air leak on the suction side, or a clog in the impeller, or incoming hose size that is too small (which will also make the pump cavitate).
Hi I have a 10 foot intro pool and got some 3″ chlorine tabs but not sure how many to use and if it’s daily or weekly? Thanks
Chlorine tabs are for daily chlorination – granular chlorine is for weekly or every other week, shock treatments. YOur pool should have a minimum 1 ppm, 24/7.
Thanks. It’s just confusing as noticed on tub it says 7 tablets weekly for 2500 gallon. I think our pool is 1300 g so presume it’s 3 tablets a week??
Yes, that sounds about right, but there are many variables affecting how much is needed to maintain the minimum 1.0 ppm level. Your test kit will tell you for certain, if you are using enough, too little or too much.
I have a 12′ by 30″ pool. Approximately 1700 gallons I believe. What are a good base to start with? I’ve got a starter kit. Do I need more chemicals?
In addition to a Start-Up Kit, you will need some tablets. You may also need some pH and alkalinity adjustment chemicals, as needed. And you will need some test strips to test the water every other day or more…
I have an Intex Metal Frame 15ft round 48” pool. It’s 4,440 gallons I believe. I have maintained my P.H. at around 7.2 ppm and Alkalinity has stayed around 120 ppm. I shock once a week at night using In The Swim Super Shock with my filter running after doing so. I also brush it around after adding. I have a 12” Intex Crystal Clear Sand Filter & I let it run atleast 12 hrs daily. Usually at night. I keep my chlorine floater with 3 “ chlorine tablets and Clear Balance tablets in it. I try to test atleast every other day or a few times a week. Everything has been good pretty much except for the fact that I use test strips and it keeps saying that my Free Chlorine is always at about 1ppm (Okay range). My Total Chlorine is usually around the same. 1 ppm (okay range) but sometimes, like today, it dips down into 0.5ppm which is slightly low I guess? Is my Free Chlorine suppose to be higher than Total chlorine? Also, my Cyanuric Acid is always at 0, but do I really need to add it in an intex pool? All my other levels seem to be fine & my chlorine tablets seem to last a while in the floater…
Hi Kristen, your pool care system seems solid. It’s OK to not add extra cyanuric acid, you will just use more chlorine, but should be able to maintain the chlorine level throughout the day. Some pools however, during the warm afternoon, when the pool is being used, cannot maintain chlorine levels due to the UV loss and the demand from being used, and also the pump being off (?). In this scenario, the pool water is not sanitary during use, and for hours afterwards, meaning not safe to swim, from a health standpoint. Cyanuric Acid (aka Stabilizer) can help keep chlorine levels high even during 100° days with many swimmers. But not always necessary, for all pools, plus the Stabilized tablets do add some protection, in that they do contain a small amount of cyanuric. For your total and free chlorine – t hey should always be the same, and 1.0 ppm is the minimum level you should have, per health department standards. When total chlorine is more than free chlorine, the difference is combined chlorine, aka chloramines, which burn the eyes, and smell strongly of chlorine. If combined levels are 0.3 ppm or higher, the pool should be shocked, to remove the chloramines. For example, if TC=1.5 and FC=1.0, CC=0.5 ppm, and the pool needs to be shocked. But if they are the same TC=FC, then all is well. For health of swimmers, try to keep the chlorine 1-2 ppm, at all times.
I have an Intex above ground pool host a thousand gallons of water so what amount of chlorine do I need to put in my above ground Intex pool that has 1000 gallon of water so I can be safe from any parasite allergies viruses bacteria I want to be safe
Tammy, use enough chlorine tablets to produce a constant and consistent level of chlorine, of 1-2 ppm, as verified by your test kit. It will likely be 3-6 one-inch tablets, replaced before they dissolve completely. The amount needed will vary, according to water balance (esp. pH), water temperature, pool usage frequency, cleanliness of bathers, cleanliness of pool, and amount of sun received. Translation – you will need more or less, at different times of the year, to maintain the 1-2 ppm minimum chlorine level. Also be sure pH stays between 7.2 – 7.6. If it rises above 7.6, add pH decreaser.
Hello,
I have an 18’ x 48” pool. Can you possibly tell me what is needed to add to my water outside of chlorine tabs?
Tierra, also add weekly doses of algaecide and clarifier. Add pH decreaser if the pH level rises above 7.6. Add shock if you see algae or cloudy water, or if chlorine drops to zero, or if there has been high pool use, heavy rains that change water color, or animals in the pool, or other events that affect water clarity.
I have the 24×12 Intex rectangular pool, water is clear but I started noticing some greenish color along the vinyl walls, especially corners. Making sure I brush and I added a bag of shock 3 days ago, super algaecide the next day and some clarifier yesterday. Water looks good. But I seem to have some algae particles in the water that seem to settle at the bottom of the pool over night and they collect in these lines. I have the manual vacuum and I try to vacuum them out (very slow and time consuming) but the next day I have some again. How do I get those out? any other chemicals needed that I am missing? oh I have to mention, I live in AZ and we are at 110 temps during the day and mid 80s at night. so not much cooling around here anymore. I try to run the pump 3 times a day for 4 hrs each.
Hi Jenny, just keep doing what you are doing, and eventually should get all particles out. Might need a new filter cartridge (Intex suggests replacing every 30 days with new), or you can use the Slime Bag, which is a heavy mesh bag that connects to the return fitting, as a secondary filter.
Hi
We have a 10 x 12 Intex and our tablet ran out we waited two days to replace because we were out of town and now it’s very cloudy and chlorine is very high when i strip test? I added Some more water any other suggestions?
Run the filter non-stop, add a Clarifier to help the filter out, clean the filter as needed. if it won’t clear up in 7-10 days, drain half and refill with fresh water.
How many 3” tablets, and how often, do I add to the floater for a (10’x30”) pool?
Ah Grasshopper, your test kit will tell you for certain, but I will tell you this. When the sun rises each morning, you should have one (1) 3-inch tablet in the chlorine floater, with the vanes or baffles fully closed. Or maybe you should only use it during the day if possible, as one entire tablet may overchlorinate your pool. Test it and see… It is usually best to use 1″ tablets on pools less than 12′ round. 3-inch tabs can be split, but not easily or so safely.. .
Hi. I have a larger Intex Pool. 20′ x 48″. My local pool store says adding cya, calcium and having a pool floater with chlorine tablets could be harmful to my liner so they don’t recommend any of them. Is any of that true?
Hi Jillian, I have not heard that cya or calcium chloride could damage a pool liner, and I think that you should use Cyanuric acid (Stabilizer), in the range of 20-50 ppm, in most sunny pools. Heavily shaded pools or indoor pools do not need stabilizer aka conditioner. For vinyl pools, you should have a minimum of 150 ppm of calcium hardness, because having at least this amount is important to overall water balance and avoidance of aggressive water conditions. Now a floater, the problem with floaters, is that tiny slivers of tablets, when the tablet erodes down to nothing, if the floater were to shake in just the right way some day, one of those tiny slivers might slip out of the baffle, and fall to the floor, where it will make a chlorine burn of an awful orange color. Or worse, a heavy cannonball causes the floater to flip over, and due to a loose lid, the contents spill out into the pool, releasing tablets and tiny slivers and shards of chlorine, all over the floor. The kids don’t tell you of course, and you discover it the next day. Now you’ve got problems. 🙂 But that doesn’t usually happen, in most cases you are fine to use a floater, I’m just painting a worse case scenario. The option is to use an inline or offline chlorinator like the Hayward C100, or Pentair 300 series, as a Chlorinator, installed after the filter, and a check valve installed between pool and chlorinator to prevent backflow, and it’s all getting very complicated now, which is why most people just use a floater, carefully. 🙂 Remove it before using the pool, and rinse out the shards regularly, always make sure the lid is on tight, and if it’s broken replace it.
Hi! I have a 6×10 inflatable pool. Do I need to keep a chlorine floater or can I just toss some pool salt or other chemical to keep away the slime & cloud? If I can toss something in, what would you suggest & how much? We keep it covered when not in use. Thank you!
A floater is best, to keep a constant and consistent chlorine level in the water. A good pH level is also important, for chlorine potency, in the 7.0-7.4 range. In lieu of a floater, you could ‘hand-feed’ granular or liquid chlorine each day, (every day) in small amounts, to maintain a constant residual. Use a test kit or test strips, to test chlorine and pH levels. See also: https://blog.intheswim.com/how-to-maintain-an-inflatable-kiddie-pool/
I just purchased a 10×30 pool. It’s turned cloudy and green. I can’t find anywhere on the internet the instructions on how much chlorine and chemicals should be used to keep the pool from getting this way. Should I empty the pool and and start over or can I shock it? Either way I need a HOW? HOW MUCH? When? etc. Really appreciate all the hep in advance.
For such a small pool, with such a small filter, if you really get into trouble with green and cloudy water, you might probably drain and start over. If you can see the bottom of the pool floor, you may be able to bring it back with chemicals and filtering non-stop, but it will be much faster and cheaper to drain and refill. You can drain thru the hoses, and push the wall over, gently, or use a submersible pump to empt faster.
hello I have a 10x 30 intex pool. Do I need both bromine and chlorine? I didn’t notice that you mentioned bromine in the other comments. Also, I I do can I add both to the same chlorinator/brominator ( A2605)that I am purchasing on your website?
Hello Astrid, you do not need both. Just chlorine tablets, and 1″ size are best for the 8 ft and 10 ft pools. You cannot mix chlorine and bromine, if they contact each other they can explode or catch fire – really! Use only bromine or use only chlorine in the floater, and never mix the two, and never switch and add bromine to a floater used for chlorine, or vice versa.
Thank you so much for the information on this site. Can I purchase the start up kit items at a local store or do they have to be ordered?
Most Local stores should have start-up kits, I think Leslies does at least.
Hello!
This is my second year putting up my 12×30 pool and I can’t seem to get the chlorine to register. The water is clear, with more dirt accumulating at the bottom this year then I remember seeing last year (I am vacuuming our when needed). I’ve had 2 tests done at my local pool supply but their recommendations have not helped. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!!!
When chlorine does not register, I ask: is the pH too high? (lower to 7.2-ish), is the Stabilizer (cyanuric acid) too low? (raise to 30 ppm), is enough chlorine being added? Is the chlorine fresh (less than 5-years old for tablets, 1-yr for liquid), and are the test strips or reagents reliable? Finally if none of that, I suspect nitrates, and suggest a quadruple shock, for your pool, that would be about 3/4 of a 1 lb bag or 12 oz of cal hypo shock, predissolved and poured into pool.
Complete newbie here. Have not used any chlorine or shock yet: just water and it’s cloudy. Which do I do first? Shock? And how do I know how much to use for 234 gallons (smallest intex easy set). Thanks very much!
Robyn, since the water is cloudy and there is no chlorine, add granular shock to raise chlorine level up immediately. You may stop first to check pH, and make sure it is not above 7.6. If it is, first add a pH decreaser, to lower the pH level, to where chlorine is more potent. ALso run your filter non-stop, do not try to save money on the cost of running the pump, or you will pay more in chemicals, and time and effort. Use poolcalculator.com, to find exact amounts of chemicals required for your pool.
I just bought a 10’x30” Intex pool with filter. Based on a lot of your comments to others, I have a sense of what I need to get started. Thank you! Please let me know if they’re not needed or any that are needed. I prefer to hold off from buying extra chemicals that are rarely needed. Thanks so much.
1. 1” Chlorine tablets
2. Shock
3. Test stripes
4. Floater
5. PH increaser
6. PH decreaser
7. Algaecide
8. Clarifier
9. Stabilizer
Hi Lisa, that is a great list. Note: 10×30 Intex pool has just over 1000 gals. of water.
1. 1” Chlorine tablets > 10 lbs, item C1010 should be fine for 1 season
2. Shock – 1 oz to boost, 2 oz to shock treat. > 3 lbs Cal Hypo ‘Pool Shock’
3. Test strips > Aquachek Yellow 4-way (Cl, pH, Alk, Cya)
4. Floater > many chlorine tablet floaters to choose from
5. PH increaser > 5lbs Item Y7000
6. PH decreaser > 5lbs Item Y7100
7. Algaecide > Super Algaecide or Algaecide 60
8. Clarifier > 1 Qt Clarifier, Item Y2000
9. Stabilizer > 5lbs item Y7500, but you only need about 1 lb.
I’m seeing that for small pools, there are many small quantities available. I’m also noticing that our Start-Up Kits are a good way to go, Y6000 or Y6100 because they already contain enough shock, algaecide and clarifier. There’s nothing in this list that I would deem unnecessary, although for very shady pools, you could not use Stabilizer (aka cyanuric acid). Sunny pools will use a lot less chlorine when using Stabilizer, but it is still optional. Algaecide could also be considered optional, after all Chlorine is a great algaecide, I like to say. But it is a good insurance policy and using it will make it difficult for algae to get started. Larger pools can use 3-inch tablets, which are a little bit cheaper than 1″ tabs. Thanks, Lisa!
Thank you for confirming! After reading even more comments I’m gathering that I should test pH and add pH increaser or decreaser after filling pool. Then shock pool which should get me to 10ppm chlorine level. Wait 24hours so that chlorine comes down to 2ppm. Add 1” tablet to floater (10’x30”). Ready to swim? Add another tablet when it all dissolves. How much time should elapse after adding chemicals do I recheck levels? Does it depend on the chemical?
Hi Lisa, sounds good, except I think that one 1″ tablet will not be enough, but your test kit will tell you for sure. Use enough to maintain a ‘constant and consistent’ level of chlorine, of at least 1-2 ppm. This amount will change over the summer – you will need more tablets for warm water, heavy use, heavy debris, lots of sunshine, rain, etc… Recheck chemistry after an hour or two of adding…
Hi. I have a 10 ft Intex pool, do I need to keep the chlorine float in the water with a tablet all the time?
Yes, all the time, 24/7, only removed during swimming, if it is in the way. Once chlorine level drops to near zero, you have hours, not days, before water quality suffers. Intex pools should run high chlorine levels, to compensate for the often ‘marginal’ pool filters. And speaking of the small Intex pool filters, run it 18-24 hours per day, also everyday.
Hello I am new at this I have just put a pool up 16×48 Intex metal frame pool round new with all these chemicals first off what do you start off with. I’m having pool water delivered to fill pool what chemicals do I need to purchase and how much ?
Dina, your chlorine is most important – so put that first on the list. In just hours of being without at least 1.0 ppm of chlorine in the water – and things start to grow. germy things. So keep a Constant & Consistent Chlorine level of 1-2 ppm, at all times, day/night, 24/7. This is done with your chlorine tablets in the floater. For pools with bright sun, add 1 lb of cyanuric acid, aka Stabilizer or Conditioner, per 3000 gals, to protect chlorine from dissipating too rapidly in the sun. Aside from your daily chlorine level, the next most important thing is your pH level. if your pH is above 7.6, use pH decreaser, just a small amount, don’t over-shoot it, add some, test again and add more again later if needed. Third thing is to add a weekly dose of Clarifier and Algaecide, per label dosage. Fourth thing is the use the granular chlorine, pool shock, every few weeks, to raise chlorine level way up, to 10-20 ppm, which will oxidize everything, kills anything that has managed to escape the daily chlorination, and removes organic waste, and invisible solids dissolved in the water, and is used to sanitize and disinfect. Shock is also used when your chlorine level has dropped to near zero, to get the level up again fast. It’s also the best thing to kill pool algae, and algaecide is best used for algae prevention. Finally, run that filter pump 24/7 if you can stand it. It won’t blow up, and it won’t cost that much more. If you can’t do 24 hrs, at least do 14-16 hrs daily, every day!
For a shopping list: Basic or Deluxe start-up kits, and a and 10 lb bucket of chlorine, a small chlorine floater, a 2-way Duo test kit for Cl/pH. That all adds up to about $100
What will happen if i over chlorinated my intex pool
Hi Charles, it happens! Over long term, it will weaken the vinyl, but once or twice per year and it’s okay. I like to ban swimming when chlorine levels are over 5 ppm, to avoid irritated skin, but it would not be unsafe to swim in water that has more chlorine, to a reasonable degree. There are chlorine reducers available, a chemical that will remove chlorine, but the best thing is to just stop chlorinating, run the pump 24/7, keep the pool uncovered, and it will come down in 3-5 days usually. If it is super over-chlorinated, like 50 ppm or something, then you may want to use reducer, or replace half the water and refill with fresh.
Hi, can I add stabilizer and shock at the same time or not? And also, when adding those, do I need to take the chlorinated or out of the pool? I have a Inter easy set Pool 13×33.
Thanks in advance!!!
Hi, yes you can add both chemicals near the same time, and no need to remove the chlorinator.
Hi, I have a 10×30 pool , the water turned cloudy so I put 2 tablespoons of shock. Is that enough or should I put more?
Probably want more, to reach 8-10 ppm of chlorine. Test the water to see if the chlorine is registering, if not add more. You must have a test strip or a test kit to manage your pool. If you don’t have one, you are just guessing.
I just set up our easy index 15 x 42 . I don’t know how much chlorine tablet in the floating chlorine dispenser should I use. and what is the perfect Ph for that kind of poll.
Hello, Use enough tablets to maintain a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the water, in the range of 1-2 ppm, or a little higher won’t hurt either. It’s probably going to be one 3″ tablet, replaced promptly, just before it dissolves completely. For pH, I like 7.2-7.6, on the low side, where chlorine is more potent.
Hi. I have a 12f round pool and my chlorine and total alkalinity are perfect but my Ph and my Cyanuruc Acid are low Should I try to increase both? Or would increasing one affect the other?
Hi SHaron, low pH is good for chlorine potency, and as long as it’s not under neutral 7.0, you need not worry about it too much. I like 7.2-ish best myself. Cyanuric acid, despite having acid in the name, does not affect pH level, is aka Stabilizer or Conditioner; protects chlorine from the sun, like a chlorine-extender. Good range for CYA can be 20-50 ppm. If you need to add some, it won’t affect your pH level, and you will need very little, only 1 lb. or less
I just set up our Intex easy setup 8”X 30 pool, first time having one. Does the water need to be replaced every couple of weeks or just keeping it clean with chemicals would be ok? I think is about 600 gallons
Hi Miriam, if you don’t have a filter, I would plan on changing the water every few weeks, even with keeping it clean and with chemicals. But if you have the filter that goes with it, and you run it long hours every day, and maintain good pH and chlorine levels all the time, you can avoid draining.
Hi Davy – we just got a 10×30 intex easy set pool. We are using the pump that came with the pool and running it 24×7. How often should we change the filter inside the pump? Thank you!
Hi Lexie, clean the filter whenever filter pressure rises 7-8 psi, or when flow is noticeably reduced. Intex says to replace the filter cartridges with new every 30 days, but you can get 90 days, or with the use of a FIlter Cleaner, up to 120 days. After that, the fibers separate and they begin to pass dirt thru…
Thanks, Davy. One more question – I put 1/2 of a 1″ chlorine tablet in the floating chlorine dispenser last night. It doesn’t look to have dissolved at all and the ppm is at zero. The Alk and pH levels are in the normal range. I bought shock and will use it when it arrives but is there anything else I can do in the meantime to increase the ppm so that it’s safe to swim? I’m also keeping the pool covered when it’s not in use.
Hi Lexie, 1/2 of a 1″ tablet is not enough, use 3-4 tablets to start. And to boost the chlorine, put 3 tabs in a ziploc bag or other thick plastic bag, and pound it gently with a hammer, until you get a dust, and then dissolve the dust in a bucket, and then pour into the pool. You can also add some unscented laundry bleach if you have it, about 1/2 cup, to raise chlorine. Remember that you must keep a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the water, 24/7, all summer long, or germy things begin to grow, immediately.
Thanks, Davy! Your solution did the trick – chlorine levels were actually just above normal range this morning. Thank you!
Next question – our filter is getting dirty really quickly (less than 24 hours) and water stops flowing which is not ideal. As soon as we clean it, probably resolved. We’re looking to upgrade the pump so that we don’t have to clean it so often – we currently have the 330 Gph Krystal Clear Cartridge Filter Pump with a 10×30 easy set up pool. I saw all of the options on your blog, but is there one you would suggest for this size pool? Thank you!
Lexie, you can upgrade to the 1000GPH system, that will be much better for water quality.
Hi, thanks so much for your help! My husband has already put granular chlorine directly into our brand new 18 x 48 intex easy set while waiting for the tablets and slimmer, I’m worried he damaged the liner/pool itself. Do we just use tablets from here and continue to test with strips?
Siobhan, probably no damage, it takes more than one time to damage the vinyl usually, and vinyl is more resistant to ‘bleaching’ than before. But it should be pre-dissolved. Keep the shock handy, if your chlorine accidentally drops to near zero, use it to raise the level quickly. If you see algae, use the shock. If you suspect bacteria, from a large party, or animals using the pool, use the shock. And if everything is great, use it every few weeks, to ‘shock’ the pool, or ‘super-chlorinate’, to kill anything missed by the daily tablet chlorination.
Hi Davy,
We just set up a 10’×30″ (1,074 gallons) easy set pool. I started with liquid shock/chlorine at night, then tested in morning. Levels were good per manufacturer guidelines. However, I bought a 3″ chlorine tablet, broke it up. Can I use this inside pump in the basket like thing on top of filter cartridge instead of a floater? Also, I didn’t realize when shocking that levels should be brought up to 10-20ppm…How long after shocking is it safe to swim in the water? I leave the pump on 24/7 to ensure clean, clear water. Also, would clarifier be good for clumping all of the tiny sand particles together so filter can grab? Should I use clarifier at a separate time from other chemicals? Thank you in advance!
Hi, use a floater, don’t put chlorine tablets into the pump basket, or skimmer, it will ruin the pump. Shocking should be 10 ppm for clear water, 20 ppm or higher, for algae or bacteria removal. Wait at least 8-hours after shocking to swim, and leave all covers off of the pool. Running pump 24/7? I love you! 🙂 Clarifier is great for small filters, use weekly per label, use any time. Replace your filter sand every year, on small sand filters under 18″ dia.
Greetings,
We just got an intex 8×30, approx 690 gallons round pool. We are new to maintaining a pool. We have the filtration system that comes with those size pools. We have a chlorine floater and use 1inch chlorine tabs (we put two tabs in). We have a solar cover, a skimmer and just bought a pool vaccuum. I’ve noticed that our two tablets are deteriorating rather slowly. Is this normal? Also how many tablets per week in our floater do you recommend for this size pool? Is it safe to have kids in the pool as the same time as the chlorine floater? Is there anything else we should do to keep tge pool clean and safe? We do have test trips and have tested the water once and so far it seemed ok. Also, do you have any suggestions on what we should do to iur pool in preperation for being out of town for little over a week. We don’t want to leave our filter pump on 24/7 while gone and don’t want to have to ask someone to come maintain it while we are gone.
Thanks in advance!
Hi Cara, use as many tablets as it takes, to produce a constant and consistent level of chlorine, at least 1-2 ppm, day or night. That amount will vary will water temperature, pH level, stabilizer level, debris load, and pool use levels. In addition to your daily chlorine level, you also want to shock the pool regularly, every week or two, and raise the level to 10-20 ppm, to kill anything the tablets don’t kill, and to remove chlorine byproducts (chloramines) and to kill algae, and maintain complete disinfection. Before going out of town, shock the pool, then cover with a tarp, and keep the pump running, don’t shut it off. If you need the filters cleaned once while you are gone, pay someone $25 to come do it. If you just shut off the pump and leave town, it’s not going to be pretty or easy, when you return.
Help- set up a 14 x 36 Summer Waves pool today- letting my son swim now because it’s hot but I know I need to start a chlorine regimen ASAP. I have test strips, one inch tabs, shock, and algacide. Should I shock it tonight, start tabs tomorrow? Can kids swim with tabs floating in it? Will the pump last for the next 2 months if I run it 24/7?
Tiffany, yes add some of the shock, do the math so you don’t over-treat the pool. Then start with the tablets today also. Kids can swim with the chlorine floater in the pool, but if there is lots of activity it might be best to remove it, just don’t forget to put it back after swimming! 🙂
Hi again,
Thanks so much for your reply. We did buy the pool shock and we also appreciated your comments on what to do when we are out of town. I just have one follow up question. As for the pool shock packets we obviously didn’t want to put the cull packet in as our pool is only about 600 gallons so we just did 2 tablespoons of the shock. Does that sound about the right amount?
Yes, that sounds about right, good math! There is a helpful website I use frequently – poolcalculator.com – to help with exact amounts for smaller pools.
I set up my 10 feet intex pool about a week ago. We put the recommended chlorine tablet in a floater and it’s now saying my chlorine levels are too high. How do I stabilize it? Do I need to keep the pump going, does it effect the chlorine? I took the chlorine out for now and have the pump running but if I keep putting it in and out, how will I find the balance? Thank you!
Hi Alyssa, a 3″ tablet may be too much for a 10′ pool, if closing the vanes on the floater does not help, you can either use several 1″ tablets, or use 1/2 of a 3-inch tablet. It’s ok to be a little high, in the 2-3 ppm, or 3-5 ppm range. The only problem is really some wasted chlorine dollars. Running the pump, using the pool and keeping it uncovered will all help to lower the chlorine level naturally.
I have a 10′ round inflatable pool with filter. I orginally bought 4in1 chlorine tabs that are 3inches because that was all that was available. I also bought a floater for in the pool. I think the pool holds 600 gallons of water. Do those tabs dissolve slow enough that I can use them or is that way too much for my pool.
HI MaryAnn, these tablets are probably going to be too big, but you can score them with a knife and break them in half. Sweep up any tablet dust right away, and pour into the toilet. 1″ tablets would be better suited for your pool, and any pool under 2000 gallons.
I purchased a Smmer Waves 8ft round easy setup pool a few weeks ago, and purchased liquid chlorine, ph+, ph-, algaecide and clarifier. I purchased the liquid chlorine as it is a small pool and did not want the chlorine floater getting in the way of kids playing. I test my water daily and my ph level is about 7.6, but my chlorine levels are always very low, about 0.3. I add more than the amount required on the instructions daily, and shock it with double that amount weekly. Could it be chlorine lock, or just need to add more chlorine? Also, how quickly can I test the water after I add chlorine to it. The pool gets sun about 3/4 of the day. The water is very clear though.
Another question I have is do I need to cover the pool nightly? I have been using a tarp to cover the pool in the evening to try to keep some of the heat in and bugs out.
Hi, low chlorine levels of 0.3 ppm are not safe, stuff could be growing. It could be the sun burning off the chlorine, add 1 lb of chlorine stabilizer, aka cyanuric acid, aka conditioner, to the water, to shield chlorine from the sun. I doubt it’s chlorine lock, on a fresh-fill. With liquid, it would be best to add it twice per day, morning and evening, to reduce the peaks and valleys of once daily addition. You can test after adding chlorine, maybe 10 minutes later? Covering the pool is a good idea, you don’t NEED to do it, but there are those advantages if you can…
Hi we just bought the 18X 48 intex quick set and have no idea what to use to set it. Have the 15,000 gallon kit but it says our pool is 6,000 -7,500 Max worried we will use too much chemical! Also, doesn’t seem like chlorine floater included how important is that and which vacuum do you recommend for this pool?
Hi Juliette! – each chemical in the start-up kit will give you precise dosage instructions. Pool chemical labeling is very regulated, and is consistent in format and information. There’s a little math involved, because every chemical will say “add x oz. of chemical per x gals. of pool water” In the case of intex pools, if your pool is 6000 gallons, multiply dose by 0.6. – a Chlorine Floater is very important to use tablets, so that you get a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the pool. For vacuum, the Intex Vacuum is about the only auto vac that works with Intex style pumps. You can use handheld battery operated vacuums, but my best advise is to get a Leaf Gulper, garden hose vacuum, and for spot cleaning, a Leaf Rake net on a pool pole is a good tool, and a great surface skim net too (better than flat, dip-n-flip style nets). Also get a 18″ nylon pool brush.
I just purchased an intex 12x24x52 ultra xtr frame swimming pool what chemicals do I need after filling and should i use a filter on hose. Should i order a start up kit or pool opening kit or sometthing else? First time owning a pool. Help.
Hi Chris, there are filters for the hose, I call them pre-filters, to filter the fill water. If you have poor water balance or high minerals / metals in your fill water, it can be a good idea to use a pre-filter when filling a pool. (But most people don’t use one). When freshly filling an Intex pool, remember the cyanuric acid, aka Stabilizer. Use 1 lb to raise CYA about 30 ppm, in a 3500 gallon pool. This is to protect chlorine from the sun. Then check your pH level and if it is above 7.8, add 1/2 cup dry acid to lower the level. Then add some shock next, use one cup of shock (8 oz, per 5000 gallons), pre-dissolved in a bucket of clean pool water, and then pour around the edge of the pool. Then add a chlorine floater with 1 3-inch tablet for every 5000 gals of pool water. Replace the tablet before it dissolves completely, and shock once per week. I like to see Intex pools also use a weekly dose of Clarifier and Algaecide, to help the filter, and to help the chlorine, respectively. And Please… run the filter at least 12 hours per day, or 18-24 hr/day if you want even fewer problems.
I have a 10ft Intex pool and my free chlorine and PH levels are very high, the total chlorine was normal. I closed the cholorine tab floater and left the cover off for the sun to bring it down and tested today and all are high today including the total. The water is slightly cloudy but not bad. What natural alternatives are there to stabilize this. I’ve heard of Borax and baking soda for low PH but high? and high chlorine? Should I shock? the pool is not that big so how much liquid bleach should I add 1200 gallon pool? Thanks!
If the chlorine is high, remove the floater and do not add shock or bleach. Replace the floater before chlorine drops to zero. For the high pH, if above 7.8, add 1/4 cup of dry acid (sodium bisulfate) or liquid acid (muriatic), and then test again a few hours later. 7.2-7.4 is the best range.
I have a quickset 8′ pool coming. I am trying to get a 350 or 530 gph filter, but not having too much luck. I have a friend that has the same pool and uses a 1000. Is it okay to use a 1500?
Hi Shani, you could use a 1000, the 1500 GPH might be too large, and it also requires adapters, as the hose size is larger. But the 1000 would be a good upgrade for an 8 footer.
Hi there! Our Intex Easy Se 8ft round 30 inch deep pool just arrived and we put it and the filter up. We’re filling it with water as we speak but we don’t know which and how much chemicals to put in to open or start off the pool. Can you help? Also, how what and how much should we be using for maintenance each day/week? We do have the testing kit too. Thank you so much in advance for your help.
Hi Tara, most of your questions are answered in the post, and previous comments, but to start you off, test the fill water. If pH is high, lower it with an acid, to around 7.2. Then add a granular chlorine 1/4 cup or 2 oz to the pool, to begin your chlorination. From this point forward, strive to maintain a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the water, with a minimum of 1.0 ppm – below that level and the water turns cloudy and things begin to grow, fast. For your daily chlorine level, use tablets, either several 1″ tabs, or for your small 8′ pool, 1/2 of a 3″ tablet, placed into a chlorine floater and replaced (promptly!), before it dissolves completely. If you miss that, and chlorine drops below 1.0 ppm, add the 2 oz of granular chlorine to boost it up fast. Also use the granular chlorine (aka shock), for ‘shock treatments’ to the pool, adding 4 oz of shock every two weeks, to control/destroy algae, bacteria, chloramines and cloudy water.
Hey! We purchase an Intex pool. 18ftX48in. We have a well so we are having a water delivery. This is the first time having a pool. Can you tell me exactly what I need to buy to start treating water? I see all these starter kits but feel lost!
Hi Lisa, get a 15K start-up kit, 25 lbs of 3″ chlorine tablets and a chlorine floater. Also get another 6 or 12 pack of regular cal hypo pool shock, or non-chlorine pool shock. Get a small amount of cyanuric acid (Stabilizer), to raise level to 30 ppm. And a good test kit or test strips.
Hi! We cannot keep our 12 ft. Intex pool clear and clean. We use chlorine and change the filters at least once per week (mostly 2 times per week). My husband is constantly using a skimmer and we have coloring floaters. We are having to shock it at least once per week. We clean our feet on the way in the pool and are following all guidelines. Do you have any suggestions? Should we upgrade the pump?
Hi Amy, have you tried running the filter pump longer each day? Like 24 hrs per day? 🙂 I like to over-filter these small pools, especially when using the standard pump/filter that comes with the pool. If the filters are from last year, I would recommend new filters, they only last one season. Also like to see these pools using a weekly dose of clarifier, a small amount, per label dosage instructions.
Davy. Your page is very informative. I have a bestway rectangular (10×6.5×30). It’s about 1000 gallons. I read somewhere that for a pool this size I should just out about 1/2 cup of bleach daily which is what I have been doing. I have a basic Taylor kit and my pH is about a 7.2 but my free chlorine and bromine level is at 0. What am I doing wrong? Water looks clear and I run a bestway 1500 gph pump for about 3 hrs a day. Please help. Thanks
Hi Tim, yes a 1/2 cup of regular unscented bleach 6% strength, will yield 2.0 ppm per 1000 gallons of water. Or, said another way, more formulaic, 4oz of bleach, per 1000 gals, will add 2 ppm free chlorine. You have a good pH at 7.2, but if it were 8.2, the chlorine would not be very active, and half would be wasted. So pH is important, and also know that bleach has a very high pH, so over a few weeks of use, you will notice your water pH level rising, and when it gets to 7.8, add a 1/2 cup of acid (dry or liquid), to lower the pool pH level again, where chlorine is most potent. In your case, you are having trouble maintaining a chlorine level, and in such cases, it is either being destroyed by bright sunlight, or there is a high chlorine demand in the water, from invisible consumers. The solution for the sun is to either cover the pool, or add 1/2 cup of Stabilizer (cyanuric acid), to protect chlorine from the sun. The solution for the high chlorine demand is to shock the pool, using 3 cups of bleach, added all at once, to oxidize everything in the pool, which should be done every week or two. A third issue could be happening, and that is that when you add chlorine only once per day, adding 1/2 cup only lasts so long, and even with stabilization, if added in the morning, the chlorine level will fall by noon. Adding only once or even twice daily, creates peaks and valleys of chlorination, when it is best to have a constant and consistent level of chlorine, added to the water 24/7, not once per day, from the use of a tablet in a chlorine floater or inline chlorine feeder, for larger pools. This allows precise control over chlorine levels and helps ensure that chlorine does not drop below 1 ppm, where germy things begin to grow. Having a constant/consistent chlorine level is the reason for not using bleach, and spending more for tablets.
Thank you so much. I did as you said and waited an hour and redid the test. Free chlorine is around 5 now and pH is around 7.5. The shocking help. Now I just need to monitor the CL level. Thanks so much again.
hi davy my pool holds about 3000gal the test strips i use test for free chlorine the only time i get a reading is after i shock all other reading are fine and pool water is clear.i only run the pump when in use if you want to call it a pump.takes a d filter.Thanks don
Hi Don, start running that filter all the time. At least 12-hours per day, 18-hours if you can, and 24/7, if you want to make the pool easier to manage. The constant circulation is very helpful. You may need to add some stabilizer, to protect chlorine from the sun. You would need only 1 lb of cyanuric acid, aka stabilizer or conditioner. This will protect the chlorine from the sun, and make it last much longer, with much less chlorine added. We have a Natural Chemistry Instant Conditioner, and also standard white granular cyanuric acid
Hello Davy – I have a 18×48 Coleman pool vista series 2 by bestway and it’s water capacity is 6000 gallons and change – I never owned a pool before but once I put it together and filled it – I threw a chlorine tablet floating dispenser in it – I know nothing about pool chemistry and I have 4 kids who loves to swim so I didn’t wanna take any chance pouring chemicals in it – but as I started doing research i realized pools need shocker, Ph, alkaline, etc so I went to Home Depot bought a box of pool shocker each bag has 1 pound and I shocked it weekly – then i tested it w the strips and seems like my chlorine is up but low ph/alkalinity – so I went to my local pool store supply with a sample of my pool water and they said I needed ph/alkaline increased – bought them and I wasn’t exactly sure how much to put in my pool but the guy at the store told me half a cup of both – – my pool is 6000 gallons so I I figured I pour 6oz half of ph first followed by 1 1/2 lb of alkalinity – I Waited few hours for it to filter and mind you I upgraded to a sand filter pump which should be stronger to filter the water and i tested w the strip and seems like my chlorine level dropped and my ph/alkaline is still low – idk what to do at this point ?
Hi Ray, your chlorine is most important – so put that first on the list. In just hours of being without at least 1.0 ppm of chlorine in the water – and things start to grow. germy things. So keep a Constant & Consistent Chlorine level of 1-2 ppm, at all times, day/night, 24/7. This is done with your chlorine tablets in the floater. For pools with bright sun, add 1 lb of cyanuric acid, aka Stabilizer or Conditioner, to protect chlorine from dissipating too rapidly in the sun. Aside from your daily chlorine level, the next most important thing is your pH level. if your pH is above 7.6, use pH decreaser, just a small amount, don’t over-shoot it, add some, test again and add more again later if needed. Third thing is to add a weekly dose of Clarifier and Algaecide, per label dosage. Fourth thing is the use the granular chlorine, pool shock, every few weeks, to raise chlorine level way up, to 10-20 ppm, which will oxidize everything, kills anything that has managed to escape the daily chlorination, and removes organic waste, and invisible solids dissolved in the water, and is used to sanitize and disinfect. Shock is also used when your chlorine level has dropped to near zero, to get the level up again fast. It’s also the best thing to kill pool algae, and algaecide is best used for algae prevention. Finally, run that filter pump 24/7 if you can stand it. It won’t blow up, and it won’t cost that much more. If you can’t do 24 hrs, at least do 14-16 hrs daily, every day! 🙂
Hello,
This is my first time owning a pool, I have 14x8x3.5 since it’s my first time owning a regular pool I was unaware of all the maintenance of the water. It’s been its 2nd full day now as of now that it was not treated with chlorine. Is it still safe to use it? How should I maintain the clarity of the water? What kind of chemicals should I buy? And what should I be looking for in terms of normal ranges or safe range for chlorine level and the pH level of the water?
Thank you.
Hi Cathy, you will need two types of chlorine – daily tablets and weekly shock. Use the tablets in a floater, use enough tablets, in a chlorine floater, to establish and maintain a constant and consistent level of 1-2 ppm of chlorine. Then, every week or two, raise the chlorine level to 10-20 ppm, using granular chlorine, following the dosage info on the shock bag, and doing the math conversion to your (smaller) pool size. Maintain pH in the 7.2-7.6 range, and cyanuric acid or Stabilizer, in the 30-50 ppm range. Don’t worry about alkalinity and calcium hardness for now. Oh, and run the filter nearly non-stop, 24/7.
hi!! I tested my pool and the chlorine level is high and ph is low. Will shocking the pool with non chlorine shock fix the levels? If not, what should I do? Thanks!!
High Chlorine and Low pH? Sounds perfect to me! All kidding aside, that is much better than the other way around! The chlorine will come down by itself. If the pH is below 7.0, add pH increaser (Soda Ash), or if above 7.6, use pH decreaser (sodium bisulfate).
Thank you very much for the explanation, much appreciated! I will decrease chlorine tabs, for adding 1lb PH increaser, I have never purchaser this before, what brand or where to get ? I read a bit about adding regular Arm Hammer baking soda directly to the water,is this the same thing? Thank you again.
Mary
When pH is too low (below 7.0) add a BASE: Ph Increaser is Soda Ash, Alkalinity Increaser is baking soda. And if pH is too high, add an ACID: muriatic acid or dry acid, sodium bisulfate.
I have a 12 ft x 30” pool and I need to add 5% algaecide for a green pool. How much do I add? The back says initial dose is 1 gal to 25000 of water and maintenance is 1 quart to 25000 gal of water.
For small pools, you always have to do the math, to convert. So you need to know the gallons of your pool, your 12′ should be about 3400 gals. which is 15% of 25000 gals (approx). So, then add 15% of one quart (32oz), or about 5 oz. for the maintenance dose, or 19 oz for initial dose
Hi,
This is the second week I have my 15×48 pool up. I have a chlorine tablet floating 24/7 and shocked the pool. Since day 2, I have noticed a light brown to greenish stain on the floor of the pool. This morning for the first time the water was crystal clear however on the bottom I noticed the same light brown to greenish stain and as soon as I brushed over the stain it dissolved making the water cloudy. I poured Algaecide,clarify yesterday and am assuming that is what made it crystal clear. Our pump runs for minimum 12hrs a day. I do live in NYC and most of our pipes are copper and wasn’t sure if that had anything to do with it. Any ideas what these stains that dissolve when brushed causing the water to become cloudy could be?
Hi Hulya, it could be an algae, or it could be pollen, or perhaps there’s a dusty construction site nearby. Just keep brushing 2x daily, or vacuum. Without a means to vacuum to waste, and with a small filter, it’s harder to remove such small silt from the pool, just keep at it, cleaning regularly, running filter and high chlorine/low pH, and weekly dose of clarifier and algaecide…
What would I put in my 10*30 pool for pH increase in cup measurements. I read on the back of the bottle that 10,000 gallons is 1pound or 1.75 cups but I don’t know how to convert that.
Amanda, you just need to know the gallons in your pool and then you can convert the amount. Your pool has about 3400 gallons, so just divide those “X amount per 10,000 gal” instructions by .34. >>> 16 oz x 0.34 = 0.544, or 5.44 ounces.
Hi Davy, we just purchased the Intex 18′ x 9′ x 52″ Ultra Frame Rectangular Above Ground Swimming Pool with Sand Filter Pump. We haven’t set it up yet but can you please guide me step by step on what I need to put to maintain the pool water clean and bacteria free for the entire summer? Your help is greatly appreciated before we start filling the water. Are those start up kit safe for kids? Please advise. Thank you very much!
Hi Wendy, for your pool I would buy a 15K start up kit (safe for kids), and 10 lbs of tablets and a chlorine floater. Once the water is added, you must have a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the water, all the time, 24/7. If chlorine drops to 0, within 24 hours it will turn cloudy and germy things start to grow. A good pH level is also important – if it gets above 7.6, use pH decreaser to lower it back into range. Test your water daily for several weeks, until you understand your water chemistry and how it behaves, and then you can test every 3 days or so. Run the filter nearly non-stop, as the filters that come with INtex pools are typically undersized. Don’t try to save money on running the pump for like 8-hours per day, it will only cost you more money, time and effort later. Over-filter the water, and it will be easier to manage.
Hi. We just set our pool up and the test strip shows all our levels are fine. I haven’t put any chemicals in. Should I shock or add chlorine BEFORE my levels get out of wack or is it ok to wait a few days and then start a weekly routine? New to all this and wanting to keep everyone healthy. Thanks.
Begin to chlorinate right away, your chlorine level will fall within hours. And once chlorine depletes, things start to grow. From this moment forward, you must have vigilance and an unwavering commitment to a constant and consistent chlorine level in the pool – 24/7, Mon-Sun, Day-Night – maintain the chlorine level in the 1-2 ppm daily, and then weekly, more or less, depending on water condition, super-chlorinate the pool to 10-12 ppm, with granular chlorine, or non-chlorine shock, per label dose instructions.
HI Davy
Thank you for all your posts. I have a 12X30 easy set metal frame intex pool, I use the Insta test 3 strips , and use a chlorine floater, my chrloine is about 5-10 alk is medium about 80, but PH is always low, like 6.2, the pool looks clean, not cloudy or slimy, but I feel like their is a film on my skin after getting out, I assume this is from the PH level. I have shock but would I use that for this problem? For 2 weeks its been this way since we set up the pool, but we have had lots of rain and I have a floating solar cover. Thank you for your time!!
Hi Mary, try to remove a tablet, or close the vanes on the floater, to drop the chlorine into the 2-3 ppm range. It may be the chlorine that makes the skin feel funny. Most people’s skin is around a 5.5 pH level, but a 6.2 pH level can feel acidic to a sensitive person, so if you add a base, about 1 lb of pH increaser, you should see the pH rise into the 7.4 range.
Hello. We just purchased the Intex 8’X30″ Easy set pool and filter. Would it be possible to use a chlorine free set up? If so, do you have recommendations?
Yes, if you want to go chlorine free on an 8′ Intex, I would suggest you go with Biguanide systems, such as Baquacil, Revacil, Soft Swim, or our own brand, Aqua Silk. Alternatively, you could use minerals such as the Flipping Frog, or Frog Ease by Frog products, supplemented with clarifier and algaecide, and 2x weekly shocking with non-chlorine shock.
We have an Intex 15’x48″ Prism pool with an Intex 2150 Crystal Clear Sand Filter & Salt Water Chlorinator. When we run the chlorinator, is it also filtering the pool water? Or do we need to filter the pool separate from running the chlorinator?
Thanks for your help!
Jean, I believe that they both run at the same time, because a salt chlorinator must have water flowing through it to produce any chlorine. So the pump turns on and pushes water through the sand filter and then through the salt chlorinator, and then back to the pool, so it all works … together.
We set up our pool about two months ago. We’ve just been using the larger chlorine tablets. Our PH and total alkaline are high. While chlorine and stabilizer are very low. I haven’t noticed much for cloudiness other than dust and tree debris. We live in the country and are on well water. Suggestions? I’ve purchased a startup/closing kit, pH reducer, and chlorinating granules. Our pool is 3861 gallons.
High pH is a problem because first, algae loves high pH, and second chlorine is very slow and sluggish at high pH, and up to 50% of your chlorine can be wasted, and your pool may not be as sanitary as you would like, in addition to spending more $ on chlorine. Now, a high alkalinity is a buffer to pH and makes it hard to adjust pH sometimes. Just keep at it, with a big bucket of pH Decreaser, or a few gallons of muriatic acid, and try to keep the pH 7.6 or lower. Stabilizer is best at around 30 ppm, so if below that. If you are at zero, your pool would need only about 1 lb. to reach 30 ppm. Chlorine may be low because cyanuric acid (stabilizer) is low… for chlorine, you need two types, a daily chlorine tablet, slow dissolves to release 24/7 all the time, slowly… and then a powder or granular chlorine that you add to raise the level real quick, or real high, or sometimes both 🙂 For your size pool, 10 lbs of tablets and 3 lbs of shock is prolly a full-season supply. You also need a small chlorine floater, to dispense the chlorine tablet. Intex pool types of 8-10′ size use half tablet. 12-15′ use 1 whole 3″ chlorine tablet, until it dissolves, then replace just before it’s gone, dont let chlorine drop to zero! If so, break out your granular and toss in a few heaping tablespoons…
Hi it’s me again! You are so helpful. So I am using Hydrotools 4in1 test kit and I have some questions. The instructions say to test ph and get it in range before testing alkaline. But everything on the internet says to test Alkaline and deal with that first to help stablize the ph. I am confused. The first week all my levels have been good. Going into this week my chlorine is consistently high at 6ppm. (using 3in floater and have not shocked yet)Other levels were perfect 2 days ago and didn’t swim yesterday because it was chilly.Today the ph is running high at 8.2 and alkaline seems low at 50 (I went ahead and tested it despite what kit said.) Thoughts?
either way pH first or alkaline first, no big deal, so your pH and chlorine are both too high. REmove the chlorine floater, and set it aside somewhere safe until chlorine comes down. If the vents at the bottom were open, close those vents before putting it back in. Don’t worry about alkalinity so much, but do adjust pH to keep it low, in the 7.0-7.4 range.
I just purchased the Intex metal frame 12×30 pool. Can you direct me on what I need to purchase to get my pool started chemicals and how should I input chemicals thanks
Hi, the reason to adjust alkalinity first is because it affects pH so much. Low Alk will cause pH to be erratic or bounce back after adjustment and high pH will resist you efforts to change it. Add alk increaser, sodium bicarbonate, roughly 1.5 lbs per 10,000 gallons to raise it 10 ppm. Use 5-6 lbs per 10K gals, in your case to get above 80 ppm. First add some acid to lower the pH and be prepared to add more acid (dry or liquid) to the pool to get pH down to at least 7.6, where chlorine is more potent. You can reduce the number of tablets in the floater, and/or close the vent vanes more on the bottom.
Got the 8foot round pool. What type of chemical and how much do I need?
Hi Jen, you need a chlorine floater and a 10 lb bucket of 3 inch chlorine tablets. And a start-up kit for 7500 gals. 1 chlorine tablet at a time in the floater is likely perfect, a test kit will tell you for sure though, as chlorine use not only depends on pool size, but water temperature, sunlight, bather load and organic debris, and pH level. But one 3 inch tablet is likely fine, just remember to replace it before it dissolves completely, in 5-7 days, usually. Every week or two if water looks good, or if you see cloudy water or algae or suspect bacteria infection (!), shock the pool with 2-3 oz of granular shock. Check and maintain a pH of 7.0 to 7.6. I also recommend Clarifier and Algaecide added as weekly doses, for these small pools with small filters, these chemicals are in the pool opening (start-up) kits, or you can buy separately.
Hi Davy,
I am a first time pool owner. We just got a 8ft intex east set. I have ordered a floater and 3” chlorine tablets, but we have started to use the pool already and the water is becoming cloudy. I need to shock it, but I don’t know how much to use. I have found small packets, but they’re made for pools over 13,000 gallons and my pool only holds about 680. Help!
Hi, yes you just do the math conversion and add less. If one packet treats 13000 gallons, then you would add 1/19 of a package, or about 1 ounce, or about 3 tablespoons.
Amazing! Thank you so much! I’m really looking forward to being a responsible pool owner. I appreciate your help!
I have a 10’ index pool (actually summer waves knock off) I’ve been using a 3” chlorine puck in the skimmer and running it 24/7. In the mornings I find the chlorine levels are off the charts – 10ppm. I pull the puck and add more water to bring it down but why do you think it’s so high?Also it’s been sunny here so if anything I thought it would be low. My ph and alkaline are fine and I haven’t done any shock in a couple of weeks. Are 3” pucks too big for the 10’ pool? – thanks
Yes, could be so, if really 10 ppm, thats too much. You can break a tablet with a small hammer, flat screwdriver or chisel optional. But use a floater, do not put tablets in the skimmer, it will ruin your pump and filter over time. 🙂 >>> https://intheswim.com/c/floating-chlorinators-brominators/ you could do the spa floater with your small pool.
Wow, you are so helpful to answer all these questions! We set up the pool (10 x 30), shocked it and the levels were great. Then after a few days the water chlorine level was 0 (it was high from the shocking and then all of a sudden down to 0). We bought tablets but should I shock it again first? And then put the floater thing in after 8 hours? Thanks!
Hi Cassie, yes, shock it again because it went to zero, and tablets take some time to dissolve. Yes, wait 8 hours after shocking or the following morning, and replace the chlorine floater. You may need just one tablet or half a tablet in a chlorine floater, for the 8′ and 10′ pool sizes.
I just set up an intex 12’ ft x 30” pool. I also just bought a intex salt system ( at a premium!) which will be coming by the end of the week. Is salt the only thing I need to add? Can I add it before I receive the system.
Hi Frank, yes you can add the salt ahead of time, and it is the only thing needed, to make the salt system produce chlorine. You will however, still need water balance chemicals, for pH and Alkalinity levels, and will want to add cyanuric acid, per Intex instructions, to protect chlorine from the sun and prevent overwork to the salt cell. In addition, most small Intex pools have smalll Intex filters and can benefit from the use of a Clarifier and Algaecide, added weekly per label dosage. And, you should keep some granular pool shock on hand, to shock the pool every few weeks, and to use if you have pump, filter or salt system equipment issues, and cannot chlorinate the pool.
I have a 10 x 30 metal frame intex, filled it two days ago. Just put 2 3” tablets in the floater. How long do I leave it in? Until it’s all gone? How often do I do this? Do we need to wait after we use it? Also, Plan to shock with a non chlorine shock treatment next week. Do we need to wait a certain amount of time after that? Thanks for the info! Rich
Hi Rich, your pool needs to have a constant and consistent level of chlorine, 24/7, all day and night, all summer long. If chlorine drops to zero, things begin to grow immediately, and within 24 hours, you can have cloudy water and visible algae. So, replace the tablets just before they dissolve completely, usually once per week. After shocking with non-chlorine shock, there is no wait to swim, but for chlorine shock, wait the recommended time, from the package label, to be sure all granules are dissolved, or usually 8-hrs.
I have the 13×33 easy set pool with the filter that comes with it. I have had the pool up and going for 3 days. All of a sudden today the filter keeps randomly shutting off and then coming back on. Why would it be doing this? I have had it on the whole time it’s been up and it has never done this until today.
I suppose it could be overheating, shutting down, cooling off and then restarting. When off, can you plug-in something different to the same outlet and get power? That could rule out fluctuating voltage from the outlet, from a loose wire or other problem. Try to shield your pump from the sun, and make sure it has plenty of air flow.
Hi! I just bought a 10×30 piscina easy set. Theres no filter with it. Please help me with what all I need!! I’ve never had a pool before and now afraid I’m in over my head! Do I need to buy a filter? What all chemicals do I need? Can we fill it up and swim? Help!
Hi Tonya, start with reading up – read this post again, and yes you will need a filter. I would wait to fill the pool, until you can get a filter. The 530 GPH (gallons per hour) filter is standard with the 10×30, but I would highly recommend buying the 1000 GPH intex filter system, if you can find it. Stock supply has been limited this year, and everyone has run-out. We have more on order, but could be another week or three before they arrive. https://www.intheswim.com/p/intex-cartridge-filter-pumps
Hi. I am setting up an 18×48 Prism Frame Intex. Once the water is filled I was told to put in a full bag of chlorinating granular about a lb. then run the filter overnight and should be good to swim next day and add 3, 3 in chrlorine tabs in a floater for maintainence. Does this seem right? What other chemicals should I keep on hand. Thanks so much.
Hi Josh, the 3 tablets will likely be too much, but your test kit will tell you for sure. Add enough chlorine to establish and maintain a consistent and constant level of chlorine in the 1-2 ppm range. If your chlorine test shows something higher, you can remove a tab, and if you barely register 1 ppm, add more tabs. It’s okay if your chlorine runs a little high, say 2-4 ppm, but under 1 ppm and things will start to grow… The other most important thing is pH level, keep it between 7.0 and 7.6. If it gets higher, add pH decreaser, just a 4-8 oz., and then re-test in an hour or so. I also recommend Clarifier and Algaecide, in weekly doses, for Intex pools, which may have small-ish filters.
I just bought a 10×30 easy set pool. Could you approximate what my cost on chemicals would be for the summer? Thanks!
Hi Debra, let’s assume 10 lbs of chlorine tablets and a floater, that’ll be $65 right there. Then I’d get a Start-Up kit $23, that has most of the other stuff you need, shock, algaecide, clarifier. You will want some test strips or a pH/Cl test kit, thats another $10, and you might need some pH decreaser, if your test shows a high pH level, over 7.6, but maybe not – anyway let’s add another $20 for such water balancing chemicals or supplemental chems you may find helpful or necessary, another bag or two of shock for instance. So all told that is $65+$23+$10+$20 = $118.
Thank you for answering all these questions. I was up til 4am trying to find pool chemical answers because ths is our very first pool.. I even paid $50 for a book/videos which I wouldn’t have needed had I found this blog( They weren’t helpful either) This blog has answered all my questions!
Hi Davy!
Apologies; I tried to respond to another comment where you listed the steps:
1. Add chlorine tablets to the floater, replace when depleted. Use enough to produce a consistent 1-2 ppm chlorine level, as verified by your test kit or strips
2. Test water daily for a few weeks, to get used to it, then 2 or 3x per week.
3. Run the filter nearly at least 12 hrs daily, and 24/7 if you can.
4. Skim the surface and brush the floor regularly, as needed, or weekly. Vacuum with a pool Leaf Rake, a garden hose Leaf Gulper or hand held rechargeable vacuum (automatic cleaners do not work well)
5. Clean the filter regularly, as needed, or weekly.
6. Add Clarifier weekly, per label dose
7. Add Algaecide weekly, per label dose
8. Add pH increaser or pH decreaser, as needed to maintain pH in 7.2 – 7.6 range.
I have the 8×30 round intex and bought the basic startup kit but there are no overall instructions, just instructions on each packet. My main question is:
After it is filled, do I shock it right away or put a chlorine tab in the floater and then test it after some period? If I do shock then it sounds like I need to dissolve maybe 10% of the bag into a bucket and pour in?
Lastly, for the clarifier and algaecide, do I use those right away as well or wait 1 week first.
Thank you so much for all of the information!
Hi Evan, here are the instructions for the kit. When you shock, it is best to pre-dissolve, to prevent bleaching or damage to the vinyl liner. And you can wait a week to use the Clarifier or Algaecide, or see directions below.
Pool Start-Up Kit Instructions
• Step 1. Begin filling the pool. Add both bottles of stain away following the directions for use on back of the bottles. This will help control minerals that are in the fill water, protecting your pool from staining and scale formation.
• Step 2. As the pool is filling, add clarifier following label directions. Add the Sun Sorb into the skimmer to absorb oils for up to 30 days.
• Step 3. Once the pool is full, start the filter and circulate the water, and allow the system to recirculate the water over night. This will allow complete mixing of the clarifier and stain away with the pool water.
• Step 4. Once the pool has recirculated overnight, shock treat the pool by using the pool shock. Shock treatment will help give the “polished” look you will enjoy. Broadcast shock directly into a concrete pool, but dilute shock in a bucket for vinyl pools. Brush any settled particles immediately.
• Step 5. Add algaecide according to label directions for initial treatment.
Hello! I’m about to set up my 10 ft summer waves pool. I have all the chemicals I will need. May i know when I should put clarifier and algaecide? Should I put those before the first swim, or should I put those two one week after we start swimming? Thanks!!
Hi Minette, you can wait until the end of the first week, and then a regular dose each week on the same day, to establish a routine.
Hi Davy,
We got an 8 ft Intex pool. We added 2 -1 inch tablets andby reading the comments it seems that we need to shock the pool since it is cloudy. My question is,
How many 1 inch tablets do I need to add and how often?
How often should I shock the pool?
Is it safe to mix all of this chemicals at once?
How soon can the pool be used after adding the chemicals?
Use enough tablets to maintain a proper chlorine reading (1-2 ppm), as verified by your test kit. The amount will fluctuate with the level of pool use and with the water temperature and with the amount of work the chlorine has to do, or the amount of contaminants in the water. So the actual number of tablets can vary over the season, but generally, it is probably something like 3 or 4 1″ tablets, but your test kit will tell you for sure. You also need shock, because the tablets take too long to dissolve, and because tablets may not actually kill everything, you need to oxidize, or raise the chlorine level to above 10 ppm, to zap, or shock everything, and truly sanitize the water, or dis-infect the water. If the pool looks cloudy, shock the pool, if you see algae, shock the pool. If the water smells strongly of chlorine, and kids eyes are red, shock the pool. IF you forget to fill the floater, and chlorine drops to zero, shock the pool. If none of that happens, and the pool looks great, shock the pool every 2-3 weeks, just to be safe. You can add chemicals to the water one at a time, no problem. Just don’t mix chemicals together, or let different chemicals touch each other, and keep your chlorine products very tightly sealed, away from other chemicals and out of reach of children. You can shock a pool with chlorine shock or non-chlorine shock, both are good, but if you use chlorine shock, wait for 8 hours to use the pool. See product labels for more information, every pool chemical has precise dosage, use and application info on the label.
Hi, I just purchase an I text 15 ft round pool 48 inch . I put a 3 inch stabilized chlorinate. The level of chlorine shows fine at 1. The ph , alkalinity and stabilizer are all low. Can I mix ph and alkalinity all together while the stabilized chlorinator is in the pool.
Joann, yes you can add them separately, but close to the same time. Never mix chemicals together dry, but you can add pH, and then add alkalinity, all while the chlorinator is in the pool yes.
Thank you so much for this blog. I have learned A LOT! I have a new Intex Pool 15×48. Do I need to add Cyanuric acid? I have a bag of granules and was planning to add the appropriate amount (sock method) for the gallons listed but a pool supply place just told me I should use liquid for this type of pool/cartridge filter. Is that correct? And without a test specific for Cyanuric acid (my kit doesn’t have this) is it safe to add maybe half to 3/4 or recommended amount?
Cyanuric Acid (aka Conditioner or Stabilizer), protects chlorine from the sun, and makes chlorine last much, much longer on sunny pools. It saves money on chlorine, but more importantly, some very sunny pools just cannot maintain a chlorine residual without it. The recommended level is 30-50 ppm. Adding 1 lb of CYA (Cyanuric Acid), per 10,000 gallons, will add 10 ppm to the pool water, on average. So for a 3500 gallon pool, 1 lb. of CYA should be about right, but consult product label for specific dosing information. Pool Chemicals ALWAYS have good dosing information on the label, so please Always read the label, for every pool chemical you use.
I have an 10×30 easy set i just put up. My mom shocked it right after it was set up yesterday. We have a LOT of iron in our water so it has a yellowish look to it. Do I add a chlorine tab in a floater? When can I let my kids go in?
Yes, go ahead with the chlorine tablet in the floater, and the kids can go in the water. For the iron and other metals, use a Stain & Scale chemical, like our Stain Away, or Metal Free, and these will reabsorb metals back into solution. Not doing so won’t be a problem either, not dangerous of course, but may stain the pool. https://www.intheswim.com/c/stain-chemicals
Hi, great resource indeed, I have an Intel 12ftx30” pool with 1718gallons capacity, I’ve been using the chlorine tablets every night and with all night filter on, today when testing the pool with the test strip I found out that the FCI (Br) is 0, Alk is below 40ppm and PH is 6.8, so I need your recommendation on how to fix this, noting that I have Niagara 4 pools Algae Control Liquid.
Hi Basel, first thing is to get the chlorine reading up. Keep the chlorine floater in the pool 24/7, and I would recommend running the filter all day, and all night, or if you must skimp, shut it off at night, when the sun is down and temperatures are cooler. If you try to save money on filtering, and chlorine, you will run into trouble that will cost more money and time to fix. Don’t worry about pH/Alk, just add a little pH increaser to bring alk up to 60 ppm and ph up in the 7.2 range. Also use the algaecide weekly, follow the label dosage.
Great info! I have a 12’ x 30” 1700 gallon Intex pool. I’ve heard that with the smaller Intex pools I don’t need to worry about Calcium hardness levels, is this true? When I tested my pool water after just being filled, it was at about 0.
Hi Lacey, probably not zero, that would be very unusual to have zero for calcium hardness, but it could be low, or ‘soft’ water. You may know if your tap water in your area is generally regarded as ‘hard water’ or soft water. Anyway, yes Intex pools don’t really need to worry about calcium hardness so much, because the surface is vinyl, and there is no steel wall or other metals present in the pool, and can be safely ignored. For other pools however, a minimum of 150 ppm is best for overall water balance.
Hi Davy I’ve got a 10ft intex pool I’ve got the chlorine floater but what tablets should I get for it and also how many should i put in per day? Thank you
Hi, get the 3″ tablets, they are much cheaper than the 1″ tablets. Just use one tablet at a time, and adjust the floater baffles to control the amount released. If your test kit says you need more chlorine level, and as the water warms in later summer, you will need to open baffles more, or perhaps add a second tablet. And remember to replace the tablet before it is completely dissolved.
Hi there,. We are among the masses with a new above ground pool this year (12×36). We are using several 1 inch bromine tablets, at the moment. Should we switch to chlorine? Every test, the bromine level is one and I’ve read on the test package it’s needs to between 2-3. I’ve added more bromine tablets to the floater but no change in the reading. The pH level is 7.5 consistently. Also, what other chemicals do we need to buy? We are in CO. Thank you.
Bromine is just as good as chlorine, but because it is 2.5x heavier than chlorine, the minimum reading should be 2.5 ppm. Pools and spas that use bromine need to build a bromine bank, by adding Bromide Ions, aka brom booster. See more here: https://blog.intheswim.com/spa-bromine-spa-shock-building-a-bromine-bank/ – Bromine is softer and has some advantages over chlorine, if you don’t mind paying a little more. But most pools, especially sunny pools, will use chlorine, which can be stabilized with cyanuric acid, to protect it from the sun, whereas bromine cannot, which is why it is most often used in spas or indoor pools, or shaded outdoor pools.
Thank you! Our pool gets sun for the majority of the day so it sounds like we should move to using chlorine, especially considering what we know about pool upkeep is minimal. Do we need to do anything to make the switch? Will switching effect the pH level?
What does stabilizer do and what do I need to monitor to know when and how much to use? Same question for clarifier. My test kit only tests for chlorine/bromine and pH levels.
Thank you so much for your time. It is really appreciated.
They say, once a bromine pool, always a bromine pool, because the bromides will remain in the water. To fully switch to a chlorine pool you will have to replace the water. But if you have only just started with bromine, and have not added the bromides yet, just switch, there should be no problem. Stabilizer shields chlorine from the sun, like a chlorine extender. Recommended level is 30 ppm. For a small pool, you only need 2-3 lbs. Roughly 1 lb of stabilizer (cyanuric acid) will raise cya levels 10 ppm, per 10,000 gals of pool water. Clarifier is not tested for, but I recommend it with Intex pools because the filters are so small and somewhat ineffective. It acts as a coagulant, attracting very tiny particles together, that would normally pass thru the filter, into larger, more easily filterable clumps.
Hi Davy, I recently bought the kids an INTEX 8’ x 30” Easy Set Pool (Round). I don’t know the first thing about chemicals, ph levels, chlorine etc. I am assuming the gallons of the pool is 755 gallons. What do you suggest I do once I fill the pool up and run the filter 24/7? Much appreciated
Jason, get a chlorine floater and some 3″ tablets, and put one in the floater, then add 1-2 oz of granular shock to the pool, predissolved in a small bucket of water, before adding.
Hi recently just bought a 10ft pool for my daughter this never came with a filter pump but I bought chlorine granules what would be your advise on this??? I also am totally confused tho and have no clue how much to put in. My pool takes 1018 gallons how much chlorine granules should I dissolve .
Hi Jenn, just read the label and do the math conversion. Most shock is 1 lb per 10,000 gallons, so you would use 1/10 of a pound, or about 1.5 oz, or about 3 tablespoons. You will also need a chlorine tablet and chlorine floater, to maintain a constant and consistent level of daily chlorine. And, you will need a filter, otherwise you will need to drain the water every 10-14 days – even with a good pH level, daily brushing and skimming, and constant chlorine.
Hello.We installed an Intex Easy Pool Set 10’x30”. The guy from pool store advised me to add 1 3” chlorine tablet weekly plus 4 ounces of granulate chlorine every three days. Based on the constant heavy chlorine odor I believe Im adding to much chlorine to the pool. Please advise. Thanks.
Yes, reduce the granular to 2 oz, every 7 days, you should be fine. But test your water every 3 days, for pH and chlorine, then you know for sure if levels are too high, or too low.
A friend gave us an 8 foot 30 inch intex inflatable pool. It does not have a filter. We are lost on how much chemicals we need or what type of filtet to get if any?
Hi, you will need a filter, such as the 530 GPH or the 1000 GPH systems found here: https://www.intheswim.com/p/intex-cartridge-filter-pumps unfortunately, they are all out of stock at this time. For chemicals, read the post, and read the comments.
We just put our pool up 27×52. I usually put a bag of shock in each week. Keep choline tablets in the floater. Do I also need to add liquid chlorine? If so how much should I add. I also use algaecide each week.
No, you do not need to use liquid chlorine, tablets and granular chlorine are all you need.
I ordered an 8 foot easy set pool. Is it possible to set up for a couple days (not use a filter or chemicals) drain and set up and refill again for a few days, etc. Thank you! Newbie here!
Yes, you could do that. It could be unsafe however, as one use of the pool, by people who have not showered thoroughly beforehand, could be enough to start bacteria growing. Probably be OK, if you keep your head above water…
Hello,
In above comments you mentioned running the filter constantly. We purchased the upgraded filter. Do you still recommend running it constantly? I have been running it 2 hours per day as that is what was suggested on another site, but it is rather cloudy. We have very hard water here in Vegas. I am not sure if that would cause the cloudy water. I tested the water today and everything is in the normal range. Thank you so much for this site. It is very helpful!
TWO HOURS PER DAY? OMG, that is the reason your pool is cloudy. Not good, to leave your pool stagnant for 22 hour per day, in the hot Vegas sun. Most Intex pools have woefully undersized filters, which is why I suggest running 24/7, or at least 12-hours daily, if you have upgraded your filter, or have a new filter cartridge, or keep perfect chemistry with high chlorine levels. It won’t blow-up, it won’t melt down, or burn-up the pump, and it won’t cost more than $1-2 per day. Save money on chemicals, and enjoy less stress, and less mess, and keep the filter running! (!!!)
Hi Davy, I just received my 10’x 30″ intex pool today.I am making sure everything is done right before I start adding the water. My question is the area I’m setting it up at is part of my lawn (all grass) and level. I was going to get some sand to put down and then put the ground cover on top of the sand. Setting the pool up on top of that, trying to make the ground and pool work? What do you think? Or should I just set it up on the grass? One other question is I am going to Costa Rica in July for two weeks, do I leave the pump running 24/7 while I am gone? Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.
Jan, I believe that the instructions state to remove the grass? I would follow the advice in the installation manual, which are probably more correct than info from some guy on the internet, lol. 🙂 Yes, keep the pump running 24/7 while out of town, and load up the chlorine floater. Cover the pool with a tarp to block the sun and keep it clean. Lock your gates, so no one can access the yard.
Hello! We are getting ready to put up a new 15×48 intex pool. I bought an 14 inch sand filter pump as an upgrade. Do I just need Choline tablets, weekly shock and to run the pool filter 12 hours a day or will I need other chemicals? Also any idea how many gallons it takes to fill a 15×48 intex pool? Thanks for the help!
Hi Maura, yes that is the basics, and you may need nothing else. I recommend however, using a Clarifier and Algaecide, with weekly doses, and if your pH level goes higher than 7.8, you will need an acid, dry acid or liquid muriatic acid, to lower the pH level. Your pool should have about 4400 gallons when full.
Thanks so much! One last question: should I be using 1 inch chlorine tablets or 3 inch tablets in a 15×48 intex pool?
Use 3″ tablets, they are cheaper and the same composition as the 1″ tablets.
Check the pH level, and add pH decreaser if the level is 7.8 or higher. Then add a few tablespoons of shock, about 2 oz, our 1/8 cup. Brush the pool. Run the filter 24/7.
I have a 8ft above ground swimming pool we have treated with chlorine and the filter is on a lot but woke up to the water been cloudy. Do you have any advice please
More filtering, 24/7. Replace the filter cartridge with new, every 60 days, and use Clarifier on a weekly basis. Be sure pH is low and chlorine is high (7.2-7.4 and 2-3 ppm)
Hello 🙂 it’s me again!! My chemicals just came in and we went ahead and reset up the pool because it started sloping -_- Once that was done I went ahead and put one 3″ tablet in my floating chemical dispenser and we put the cover on. How much of the other chemicals I listed above do I out in the 8ft intex easy set up pool? I read the bottle but it gives doses for a much larger pool size than what I have.
Hi Laura, Find out how many gallons is in your pool, what the dosage is, and then do the math calculation. It will take some time for a tablet to build up a chlorine level, a couple of days perhaps, so you should add a few tablespoons of shock to the water to quickly boost the level.
Hello Mr Merino!
Like everyone else, we are new pool owners, of the 10ft x 30inches above ground pool. Total gallons if filled to the line is 1,074gallons. Our setup also came with the Cartridge Filter Pump with the Chlorinator Filter Cartridge Type D. My question is…is this pump enough to keep the water safe to swim in or do we still need to buy 3rd party chemicals?
Thank you so much in advance for the reply.
-Brian
Brian, yes you do need a sanitizer, and you do need a filter, and you need good circulation, and you need a clean pool. If you want the water to be safe and free from bacteria, viruses and parasites, the water must be well-filtered, well-balanced and well-sanitized.
I noticed PH decreaser granules do not dissolve in water. How do you add to the pool?
You can dissolve them first in a bucket of water, then pour the solution into the pool.
Hey, thanks so much for this blog. I googled “best chemicals for Intex pool” and got here. This page and the comments/questions herein have literally answered ALL the questions I had about my 10 ft Intex inflatable pool. We bought one for our 2 kids, almost 4 and almost 6, due to the current pandemic. The only real trouble I have had is with leveling the ground. I had to take it down because of the lopsided condition of my pool. Just wanted to say thanks for all of the helpful info.
I have a few questions about our 10 ft above ground pool. Can you safely use an extension cord to plug in your pool? Is there a certain type of extension cord that is safe? Our pool plug won’t reach the outlet.
Whether the plug goes into an extension cord or the actual outlet, is it safe to have the pump running when someone is swimming it? I am fearful of electrocution.
Also, if you are going out of town for a week, should you leave the pump constantly running or unplug while you’re gone and shock the pool when you get back?
Hi Sarah, I think that the instructions for the pool say to not use an extension cord, I’m not sure, although I know many people who do, making sure that the cord is meant for outdoor use, and not a skinny cord for a lamp. And making sure that the cord is not damaged in any way, and that the plug connection won’t get wet. I cannot say, for legal reasons, if it would be safe, I would only suggest that you follow the owner’s manual. It is safe to swim while the pump is operating, and when you leave town, and all the time, run the pump 24/7. The pump costs about $1.50 per day to operate, so it’s better to overfilter. If you must shut off the pump daily, use a plug-in timer, so you don’t forget to turn it back on.
Hi, I have a 10 x 30 and was wondering how do I figure out how many gallons is my pool? Also, I recently added shock to my pool but I am afraid I may have put too much since I don’t know the gallons of my pool. Can too much shock be bad?
Hi Janet, the formula for calculating ROUND pool volume is Length x width x depth x 5.9 = volume (in gallons). 10 x 10 x 2.0 x 5.9 = 1180. Notice that I used 2 ft for depth (24″), because you would not fill to the very top. For a rectangular pool, change 5.9 to 7.5. Too much shock is not a bad thing, it will go down in a few days. For shocking your pool, just 2 oz. would be fine, or about 1/8 cup. Be sure to seal the chlorine bag tightly, clipped closed and stored in a tupperware, to keep out moisture and insects, and prevent spills.
I’m totally confused so thanks very much for your help! Here’s my confusion:
If you have a filter, do you still need chemicals for the above ground pool? We have the 10′ diameter (round).
Can you tell me exactly what is needed to purchase for chemicals and what we need to purchase if we use the salt system?
What is the filter used for if not to sanitize the pool?
Can we run the chemicals without a filter? (Just thinking here that if it is merely a matter of doing extra skimming, we could do without the noise.) Also, I think our filter says 2-4 hours suggested filter run. Why the 24hours? Is that necessary?
Does this change if we choose to use a solar panel or the solar cover?
Thanks.
Hi, yes you do need chemicals, unless you had a filter as big as a house, circulating thousands of gallons per minute. But you don’t, you have a tiny, barely effective filter. Filters do not sanitize, they only remove particles and contaminants from the water, to make your sanitizer more effective. If you use a salt system, that will substitute for chlorine tablets, but you still need to test and adjust water balance (pH, alkalinity, hardness, stabilizer), and you may also need algaecide and clarifier. And will still need granular chlorine for shock treatments. Salt systems only replace tablets, as the daily sanitizer – and, I’m not a fan of such gadgetry on small Intex pools, It’s much easier to put a 3″ tablet into a chlorine floater, once per week. Salt systems are just too complicated for such small pools. You could run the chemicals without a filter, but only if you use huge amounts of sanitizer, to the point where the water would not be safe. You need a filter and a sanitizer. YOu can run the filter 2-4 hours per day, at your own peril. If you are concerned about bacteria, viruses, parasites and other germs, and you do not want to overspend on chemicals, you will run the filter at least 12hours daily, and better to run it 24/7. It costs very little to run the filter, like $1 per day. Skimp on filtering, and you will pay more in chemicals. A pool that is over-filtered is simply easier to manage, safer to swim in, and cheaper to operate, with fewer chemicals. If you heat the pool, the only thing that changes is that warmer water uses more chlorine, whether warmed from the sun or by artificial means.
SUPER helpful site. We joined the Intex club with the pandemic closures this summer. I have the floating Chlorinator but am confused because it says take out while pool in use (obvious) but the chlorine tablet packaging says not to take out of water for more than 5 minutes if a portion of the tablet remains? Do I put it in a bucket of water while we swim? I’m a safety sally but also have no idea of anything with pools. Thanks again for your help!!!!
Hi, you can leave it in the pool, it will pose no problem. Remove it if activity gets very rough, or for cannonballs and such, but if just lounging and cooling off, it can stay in the pool. I don’t know why the chlorine tablet package would say to keep it wet, but maybe that’s a good idea?
Great blog Davy!
I’m sorry if your repeating yourself- I did read through the above comments and could not find an answer to my concern. We put up a 15×42 pool 2 days ago. My PH levels tests high and chlorine low. Alkalinity is in the green range. I purchased pH decreaser which should arrive tonite and read the stabilizer instructions. It says you should put through a skimmer which we do not have. Can you dissolve in bucket Of water?
Hi, yes I am repeating myself – people please read comments, I hate to delete questions, but this is a busy time of year for us! You can dissolve cya in a bucket of water and add it to the pool, yes. Keep your pH low and your chlorine high, and run the filter nearly non-stop. 🙂
Hi,
We just built our pool, it is a 12X30. Thanks for your article it is pretty helpful for a novice pool owner. I have a few questions if you can help:
1.When should we add Chlorine to the pool? we built the pool yesterday? How many chlorine tablets and how often?
2.Should we check the PH Levels every other day?
3.Is Shocking the pool required or recommended?
4.How long should we leave the filter on every day?
I appreciate all your help.
1. Always and everyday. Use enough tablets to register 1-2 ppm chlorine level on your testing strip. You will need more chlorine when hot.
2. Yes, be sure that pH is 7.2-7.6. Higher pH levels make your chlorine lazy.
3. Yes, shock the pool every two weeks, to kill anything that your tablets did not. Also use shock for algae, suspected or known bacteria, cloudy water, or if the chlorine level drops to zero.
4. Run the filter 24 hours per day, 7 days per week for best results. It does not use much electricity. If you must turn it off, be sure to use a plug-in timer, to prevent forgetting to turn it back on.
Hello 🙂 I just ordered the 8 ft intex pool. Per your recommendation above, I ordered the maintenance kit, 7500 gallon start up kit, a floating chlorine dispenser, chlorine tablets, and the filter cleaner. However, being the impatient person I am…I set up and filled the pool today. The stuff for the pool will arrive hopefully soon, I’m not sure how long In The Swim takes to sip items. I am hoping to use it as early as Thursday or whenever the water is less frigid although with Chicago heat, the 62 degree water temp felt great today!! Am I fine if I just use some of the shock stuff in it to hold me over until my regular pool stuff gets here? I figured I would just buy shock and strips and see how that works out until I get my shipment! Thank you in advance for your time and response! It seems like you have helped many people through this, and for that you are a saint 🙂
Laura, yes most important is to have some chlorine in the water. YOu can use regular bleach, 1 cup or so per day, or use granular chlorine, 2-3 oz per day, to hold you over. Also good to run the filter, 24/7. If you plan to run it less, be sure to use a plug-in timer, so you don’t forget. Just one day without filtering (or without chlorine), in that Chicago heat, and things can go awry.
I have an intex pool size 10’ x 24’ and filled it up 2 weeks ago and my chemicals never came:( Luckily it’s been less than 70 degrees and I have had it covered. It just have slimy sides and bottom but water is very clear still. Will it be ok if I start treating it now or do I need to refill it?
April, yes you will be fine, just check the pH and adjust if needed to 7.2-ish, then shock the pool with chlorine, brush the walls and floor and run the filter. Small filters, like on Intex pools, need to run nearly 24/7, for best results.
My first above ground please help. What do I need to maintain my intex 12 x 24 above ground. I heard some products stain and ruin the liner.
Hi Rose, you need-to-read… this post, twice perhaps. And then read other posts, to begin to understand how to operate your pool. I’ve written it all down, over 1000 posts, for your perusal. For vinyl pools, just be sure to pre-dissolve granular products into a bucket before adding to the pool, as undissolved granules may harm the liner, or stain.
Thank you and I’ll be reading tonight!!!
Extremely helpful, thanks for your time. I have the 10 x 30 and continue to get loads of very tiny brown bugs in it. I have the floating chlorine going, but definitely have not been running the pump enough. Is this the cause of the little bugs? I haven’t tested the ph either, so that is another to do.
Can’t do anything about the bugs. They don’t like high chlorine. Your little filter, should be running close to 24/7, especially as the water gets warm. Trying to save 50 cents per day, can end up costing you much more in chemicals.
Hi Davy, I just purchased a 14 x 42 Intex above ground pool. Once I set it up and fill it with water, In what order should I start the pool off with the chemicals? Which step should I perform first? Do I start off by shocking the pool or do I first check the pH level and balance if needed then shock?
Hi Sam, start with pH, making sure that the pH level is low, around 7.2, where chlorine is most potent.
Hello! I have a newly installed 18×48 intex prism metal frame pool. We have 2 chlorine tablets in the floater. 3oz of Algecide, and 1/2lb of shock that we pre dissolved. We ran the pump all night and are keeping it on 24/7 for the first three days and 12hrs a day after.that. I will be adding another 1/2lb of shock pre dissolved today (2nd day).
I have a liquid tester for chlorine, ph, and br. Do I really need a different tester? Also do I really need to have ph increaser, decreaser, alkalinity increaser, and clarifier? Please help. I want to get this right. Thank you!
Your test kit is likely fine, and if your pH stays within 7.2-7.6, then no need to worry about pH chemicals and alkalinity increaser. Clarifier will help your small filter do a better job, but if you are happy with the way the water looks, then no need for that either.
I just bought a 16 by 9 prism intex pool. How much chlorine do I need?
Hi,
We also got the 10×30. Couple questions: 1) if we just filled it and only have liquid chlorine should I put that in right away? I don’t have any other testing equipment and would like to use the pool this weekend. I’m not sure if I’ll get any testing kit before I’d want to use it. 2) should I just run the lim every night? Or how often should I be running it? If there was any confusion, I’m another beginner..
Yes you can use the liquid chlorine, add 22 oz of 6% bleach, or half that if you have 12.5% [pool] bleach. Run the filter day and night. It’s a small filter and should run nearly 24/7, for best results. If you must limit run-time, shut it off at night, and run during the [hot] day. And if you are not going to run it 24/7, buy a plug-in timer, so you don’t forget to turn it back-on.
Hi there, we also got a 10 feet by 30 inches Intex pool and are not sure which brand of chlorine and how many to tablets to put in the floater. Would you kindly be able to help us on this?
Chlorine brand does not matter, although many say that In The Swim tablets are great! Use enough tablets to give a consistent level of 1-2 ppm of chlorine, as verified by your test kit. Basically one 3-inch tablet, replaced promptly when it has almost dissolved.
Hi,
After the first initial water fill for my 15×48 pool, do I need to immediately test the water and add anything to it and how often should I be testing the water. Also, I purchased the pH up, pH down, chlorine stabilizer, and chlorine tablets is there anything else I would need?
Thank you
yes test immediately and begin chlorinating with tablets immediately. Because it can take a day for the tablet to dissolve, add 2 cups of bleach or 1/2 cup of pool shock granular, to boost up the chlorine quickly. I also like to see Intex pools using Clarifier to help the filter, and algaecide to help the chlorine. Weekly dose, per label.
We have a 12×30 with filter. When I set it up I was excited and didn’t have chemicals and just went for it. Yesterday the water had turned green which was no surprise. I bought a starting/maintenance kit and got a floater, 1in chlorine tablets, shock and algecide (all of which I have since applied to the pool) I also bought a ph increaser and decreaser and filter aid which I haven’t opened. Also do you clean the cartridge of these filters and how do they come apart. How often do I use it all I’m so lost lol, I wish I could personally speak to you in the phone bc this post has by far been the most helpful!
Nikki, yes you should clean the filter, like right now! 🙂 There should be instrucions in the manual, but basically shut off the pump and plug the wall fittings at the pool, or close the valves if you have them. REmove the lid to the filter and pull out the cartridge and hose it off well, with a high pressure garden hose spray (Not a pressure washer). Do this when the pressure rises 5-7 psi, or when flow slows. Replace the cartridge with new every season, or sooner if it fails to perform. For algae, kill it with shock chlorine. Use enough tablets in the floater to consistently maintain a 1-2 ppm chlorine level (at ALL times) and a 7.2-7.4 pH level. Use Clarifier and Algaecide weekly, per bottle dose.
Hi, I just bought a 15×48 intex pool. I did buy the 3″ chorline tablet and floater. My question is how long do I leave it in the pool for the very first time and do I keep the filter running the whole time? Thank you.
Hi Laura, keep the chlorine floater in the pool 24/7, and remember to replace it just before it dissolves. Run the filter nearly 24/7 as well, it is very small and needs extra filtration, if you want to do less, get a small plugin timer, and run it 12-18 hrs daily, more when the water is 75 degrees or more
Hi there,. We are among the masses with a new above ground pool this year (12×30). We are using several 1 inch bromine tablets, at the moment. Should we switch to chlorine? We ordered testing strips online and are waiting for their arrival in the next day or so. Are those accurate? Or should I invest in an actual kit? Also, what other chemicals do we need to buy? We are in CO. Thank you.
Test strips are about 10-20% less accurate as compared to drop style test kits. My favorite is the $20 Taylor Troubleshooter, but we have a $10 Taylor DUO (pH/Cl) test kit also. Use the bromine you have, and then switch to cheaper 3 inch chlorine tablets. Keep some clarifier, algaecide, and pH down on hand, in addition to shock – chlorine or non-chlorine shock oxidizer.
Hi. This post is incredibly helpful! I apologise if I missed this in another comment, but I just ordered a 10×30 quick set pool with filter pump and cover.
Is there a checklist of all the chemicals, testing supplies and accessories I should have on hand to get started and maintain?
I’ve never owned a pool like this before, so I’m hoping for a literal shopping list.
With so many stores closed, I want to order this now so when I need it, I don’t have to wait for it to arrive.
Thank you so much!!!
Intex pool shopping list
1. Maintenance kit (cleaning tools), telescopic pole, pool brush, skim net (leaf rake nets are best), and a vacuum (hose and head, or a Leaf Gulper, or a handheld vac, or pool cleaner)
2. Chlorine Floater to place chlorine tablets
3. Chlorine tabletsChlorine tablets
4. Basic 7500 gallon start up kit, which includes test strips, pool shock, algaecide and clarifier
5. Filter Cleaner, to soak the filter cartridge, to remove oils and scale. or Intex filter replacements. Intex says to replace cartridge A and B every 30 days, but it can go longer if cleaned well. After many cleanings however, the fibers separate, and the filter cartridge will become less effective over time.
If you get a start up/maintenance kit do you still need the increaser and decreaser and additional Shock and chlorine tablets. This is more than so bargained for lol
Start up kits are a good way to start, cuz it has the clarifier and algaecide and a bag of shock and test strips, to start. But you still need tablets, and a floater, and probably will need more shock soon. As for the pH chemicals, you may get lucky and not need them, but if your pH rises above 7.8, get some ph Decreaser quickly. If pH is too low, it’s less of a problem, don’t worry about that – but it is important for chlorine potency to keep pH under 7.8, and 7.2-7.4 is best in most cases.
Hi! I have the 10×30 intex prism and have the small chlorinating tablets and floater. How many tablets do you suggest and how often should I be using them?
Probably one 3″ tablet at a time, but your test kit or test strip will tell you for sure. Add enough chlorine tablets to reach a constant and consistent 1-2 ppm of chlorine. CHlorine too high? Use fewer tablets. Chlorine too low? Use more tablets. YOu can also adjust the vents at the base of the floating chlorinator, to control dissolution rate.
Hello, we have an Intex Easy Set 10 x 30 and decided to get bromine tablets instead of chlorine. I have testing strips, will they read bromine as chlorine? Also, they’re 20g tablets. How many should I use at a time?
We had the pool set up but had to drain it because it wasn’t level. We noticed that there was a slimy film all along the bottom. Any suggestions?
Thank you!
Test strips will test for chlorine and bromine. If you have chlorine only strips, multiply result by 2.5 to determine the bromine equivalency. Use enough tablets to maintain a 3-4 ppm reading. The slimy film can be removed with good pH level, good bromine level, a good brush and good filtering.
Hey Davy, thanks for setting this up, we’re new to all this and it’s VERY confusing 🙂
We have the Intex 15\48, water going into it now. But like we have no idea where to start from there. Your article is a great primer, but if you don’t mind I have a few followup questions.
1) Does the type of chlorine matter for the easyset pool? Is that even a thing, or chlorine is chlorine.
2) You mention pH around 7.2, then in the next paragraph you talk about pH in ppm, are these numbers found on the test kits?
3) What about sand in the bottom of the pool, is that filtered by the pump that comes with it, or what do we do there?
4) Do you do the treatment\testing the night before kids would go in it, or day of?
Thanks for this article!
Steve
The brand of chlorine does not matter, they are all made the same, by law. But there are different types (never mix them, they go boom) – there are 2 types to use, you can ignore all others: trichlor tablets, and cal hypo shock. I do mention that you use pH decreaser to lower alkalinity (as well as to lower high pH levels), but pH is the one chemical that is NOT measures in ppm, but a logarithmic scale from 0-14, with 7.0 being neutral, neither acidic or basic. For sand in the pool, you will need to vacuum it up with a hose/vac head set-up, or a handheld vacuum, or if you get good with a Leaf Rake net, can scoop it off of the floor. And for #4, I would test before and be sure water is balanced and the chlorine level is steady and holding. The most important thing to know is – keep a constant and consistent level of chlorine 1-2 ppm, all the time, everyday and every night, until you close the pool. NExt most important is a good pH level 7.2-7.4, and third, run the filter almost non-stop, it’s very small and needs to run, a lot.
What is the basic starter kit for a pool 10 x 30? And what is the correct size (tablets) for a pool of this size?
Hi Cesar, you could get the small opening kit, and then the 10 lb bucket of tablets. Tablets can last for two seasons or longer, if you buy more.
Hi! I just got a 12 x 30 easy set pool and I don’t know where to start. Do I fill it, test pH and Chlorine levels and go from there? Or do I shock it first? Thanks for your help!
Hi Jen, there may be no need to shock, if you fill it fast and it has not sat unfiltered for many days. But do balance pH. If you are having pH management problems, check the alkalinity level, it is best at 80-120 ppm. You may wish to use Stabilizer for a pool in a sunny location, to protect chlorine from the sun. Best range is 25-50 ppm.
We are about to put up our 8 x 30 pool with filter pump. What exactly do I need to get things started chemical wise? It looks like all I’ll need are those chlorine tablets and just replace them whenever they dissolve. Is there anything else I need for such a small pool?
Mike, that’s the basic level, be sure there’s a good chlorine reading, 1 tablet is enough, with the vents in the floater closed all the way. If you test over 2.5 ppm, you may want to switch to half a tablet, or use the 1″ tablets. Also important is pH, test and adjust to maintain 7.2 to 7.6. Keep it clean, run the filter non-stop, nearly 24/7. Cover if possible.
I have a question. We bought your 8′ x 30″ pool. There is just the two of us,and can’t figure out how much chlorine to put in. We have just been putting one 3″ tablet in the floater. Will that be ok? We don’t want to use to much or too little. My wife uses it to “float” on top on hot days. Will the one tablet be ok? We will watch it and when it is almost gone will put another. Thank you we look forward to your help and answer.
Hi Tina, let your test strip be your guide! I always say “use enough chlorine to establish a consistent and constant chlorine level of 1-2 ppm, as verified by your test kit or test strips”. The two variables for controlling the amount of chlorine introduced to the pool water are 1. the number of tablets in the floater, and 2. the amount that the baffles or vents on the bottom are open. With some experimentation, you can figure out the right amount of tablets, and the right amount of vent opening, to produce a consistent chlorine level. However! It’s not actually that simple, because the amount of sunshine, the temperature of the water, and high pH levels will all create more chlorine demand. And the amount of pool use, or ‘bather load’ also affects the ‘chlorine demand’, as well as the effectiveness of the pool filter, and the amount of circulation, amount of debris load, yada yada yada. So yeah, long story short, 1 tablet should be fine for your 8′ pool. 🙂
Hi Dave,
I also have a 10×30 intex pool with a filter. If I am understanding things correctly, I need to shock the pool then add chlorine tablet floats as well? This is clealry my first time. I think the pool holds 335 gallons of water? Once the pool is shocked, will I need to do it again? Or will the tablets be enough for most of the summer? I am so happy I found this blog!! Thank you!!
Hi Amanda, the tablets are used for your every day, all the time, chlorination. 24/7. The shock is used to kill anything that escaped the tablets. Some bacteria is resistant to normal levels, or high levels of bacteria can overwhelm normal chlorine levels. Or algae can also. So, we shock the pool to raise chlorine levels to 10 ppm (or higher when needed), to kill anything that the tablets have not killed. Shock is also used to kill algae, or to clear cloudy water, or when you forget to replace the tablets, and chlorine went to zero, and you need to raise the level very rapidly, or after a pool party with many users, or after a rainstorm that turned the pool green-ish…
How often do you use shock? How much shock should I use for an 10 ft intex pool?
Shock is used for many reasons – to kill algae, to kill bacteria, to clear cloudy water, to remove chloramines (aka combined chlorine), or to boost chlorine quickly, when you forget to refill the floater. If everything looks good, and pool use is not too heavy, you can shock the pool every 2 weeks or so. For a 10 ft Intex pool, you have about 3500 gallons. Read the label on the shock bag. If it is 1 lb per 10,000 gals, then use 1/3 lb. Pre-dissolve the shock in a bucket of water, stirring to dissolve and then pour around the pool. For best results, the pH level should be on the low side, 7.2-7.4.
hi! we bought a 10×30 pool. I don’t think it came with a filter. It has hoses and stuff. Am I supposed to buy a separate filter. And of so what do you recommend?
Hi Aimee, that would be odd if it did not come with a filter, but it did come with hoses? Most small Intex type pools DO come with a filter and hoses, as a minimum. If yours did not, I would recommend the 530 GPH or the 1000 GPH Intex Cartridge Filters, found here: https://www.intheswim.com/p/intex-cartridge-filter-pumps
I just set up a 15’x42″ intex pool. It came with a pump system but no chemical treatment supplies…feeling overwhelmed. I take it I need a chlorine floater and tablets. And a testing kit. What else do I need and can you recommend best products or places to purchase what I need?
Hi Sara, of course I’m going to recommend you buy your pool chemicals, accessories and supplies at InTheSwim.com! I also like to see small pools use weekly additions of Clarifier and Algaecide, to help the filter and to help the chlorine tablets. In addition, you will need a shock treatment. Chlorine or Non-Chlorine pool shock – used every 1-2 weeks.
Hello, we bought a 10 x 30 pool which uses an E cartridge (can’t find replacement anywhere for it) and am wondering about treating the pool. I tested it using 3 in 1 test strips for Chlorine and my ppm FREE CHLORINE result was between 3 and 5 bu my ph level was yellow, which I believe means it is too low and the TOTAL ALKALINITY was also low reading a 0. How and what can I do to keep the pool and water levels where they need to be? Thank you so much for any response.
Hi Stacy, use enough chlorine to produce a constant and consistent 1.5-3.0 ppm of chlorine. If it gets up to 5 ppm, back off a bit to let it come down naturally. Your Alkalinity is probably not 0, but could be very low, add a few lbs of alkalinity increaser (aka baking powder, sodium bicarbonate), and test again. The pH will also rise with the alkalinity. Keep adding the alkalinity increaser until alkalinity measures 80 ppm, and pH is around 7.2-7.6
Have a newly setup and filled 18’x48″ Intex pool. I tested the water and it checks good on everything, but chlorine. We are currently having a rain storm that has lasted the past two days and has one more to go. It has filled up over an inch to two, almost at the pole hole area. What should I do to help keep it safe with chemical levels after the rain. I purchased the startup kit, but not sure what to add and when.
Rain is pure water, but as it falls thru the air it can pick up pollutants and other contaminants. In some cases, heavy rains can affect your pH and chlorine level, as well as overfill the pool. To keep the water safe, just test the water after the storm has passed, to be sure chlorine and pH levels are still holding fine. IF not, you can boost up the chlorine level with a cup of dissolved pool shock, or non-chlorine shock can also be used. Run the filter too, to help filter out the solids.
Lynn! This is great, thank you! My intex 15×48 with a salt chlorinated filter is up and running. My chlorine is good but struggling with the others. I added some calcium, less than what I probably could have and bought some alkaline but am nervous about becoming a mad scientist so taking it slow. I’m mostly concerned about the ph which was low…thoughts?
Low pH is not really a concern, unless it is below 7.0, verging into acidic territory, where, over long periods of time, it could damage the pool and components, by being aggressive or corrosive. Low pH has the benefit of providing the best environment for chlorine, which is more potent at low pH, and also difficult for algae to survive. pH is best at 7.2-7.6. Adding the alkalinity increaser, will also raise the pH a small amount.
Hi Dave
first time pool buyer of an intex 10’x 30 inches deep no filter. concerned about chemicals damaging the pool? secondarily IF we keep up the chemicals at the right levels how often would we need to replace the water, which is a 1,000 gallons. I did buy a cover too.
thanks much
The only two chemicals that could damage the pool, are pool shock and pH decreaser, and that’s only if you do not pre-dissolve the chemical, but pour it right in – and that’s usually when it is done for years, not one time. Your water should last all season, if properly filtered and balanced and sanitized.
Hi! I just got a round 15’ x 42” inflatable pool with pump and filter. Never had a pool! Can I use the same products for other above ground pools or inflatable pool need different chemicals?
Also, do you think solar panel pool heaters could help? Or the pump provided is too small to actually help heat the pool?
Thank you very much!
Your blog is really helpful .
Hi Sabrina, small pools – big pools, they all have the same water management chemicals and concerns. For the beginner, focus on maintaining a consistent and constant level of chlorine in the pool water, and keeping your pH in the range of 7.2-7.6. For very small pools such as yours, I also recommend using a weekly Clarifer and Algaecide dose, to help the usually very small filter. The solar panels do work, one Suncoil can add 5-9 degrees to the pool. Using a solar cover really helps too, to gain some heat and to keep it in at night.
Hello! I need to know if the trichloroisocyanuric acid 90% chlorine will damage my intex pool?
Hello Mirna, no that is a good product to use, place the tablets into a chlorine floater, and dont’ allow them to touch the vinyl surfaces. Most intex pools need just one 3″ tablet at a time, with a good pH level for the most chlorine potency. This product is used for your daily chlorination, and 24/7, you should have a 1-2 ppm chlorine level, everyday. Then, weekly or so, use non-chlorine or chlorine shock to ‘superchlorinate’ the water.
Hello Dave,
Thank you for this post and your help. I just bought an 8 foot Intex pool. It has a small filter but I thought I would get a salt and or sand Intex system. I like the idea of less fuss with chemicals but the systems say the pool size minimum is much larger than ours which is 639 gallons. Can I still use a salt water system?
Thanks for you help!
Matt
Remember that a salt system is still a chlorine system, and it is only replacing chlorine tablets. It does not replace other chemicals. You will still need to shock the pool (with chlorine or non-chlorine shock), and still fuss ( 🙂 ) with pH, alkalinity, hardness, stabilizer, clarifier, algaecide and perhaps other chemicals. And, for pools so small, I think that a salt system overly complicates things. Just get a $15 chlorine floater and put 1-2 tablets per week in there. The salt system is not a better way to chlorinate, it only operates when the pump is running, and if power is not available, or there is an issue with the pump, filter or salt system, things can go south quick for someone that knows no other way to sanitize. Keep it simple, with simple pools, I think.
I have an Intex 15×48 pool. I have a chlorine floater w a 3 inch tablet in it along w a balancing tablet. I am having a heck of a time getting the ph and chlorine levels in line. My ph level was high so I have treated the pool w ph decreaser. It seems to be helping but now chlorine level is high. What do you suggest I do and what products should I get? Just for reference I am in central Texas with high humidity. Temps haven’t gotten too high yet but will be in the mid to high 90s soon
Hi Lynne, sounds like you over-shot the chlorine treatment. Close the vanes on the bottom of the chlorine feeder, to release less chlorine, and if needed, remove the floater for half-day to allow level to drop. Adjust the amount of tablets used, and the vanes or baffles or vents, at the bottom of the chlorine floater, and you will get chlorine level dialed in, to a consistent and constant 2 ppm.
Hi
I am new to pools, I purchased a 15×48 intex prism pool. It can with a 1000gph pump. We really wanted salt water so I did some research and ordered a intex 26679eg Krystal clear 2150gph saltwater sand filter system. I also ordered intex 1.25 – 1.5 hose type b hose adapters for saltwater pumps and intex hose conversion adaptor kit.
Is this pump ok for my size pool? Did I order the correct items? What chemicals will I need to open my pool?
Maria, yes that sounds fine, what you bought. In addition, you will need salt for the pool. Use pool salt, which has very low impurities. You will also need to keep shock chlorine on hand, to shock the pool, but also in case there are problems with the salt chlorinator. You will also need to maintain water balance, just like any pool – pH, alkalinity, and cyanuric acid (stabilizer). See the owners manual for the filter / salt system for more details.
Hi there – I’ve been reading your answers above and have purchased all the recommended In The Swim chemicals for my 10’x 30″ Intex easy-set pool. Can you please provide a step-by-step list of which chemicals to use, in which order, when initially setting up my pool, as well as weekly maintenance steps I should take? Thank you so much!
1. Add chlorine tablets to the floater, replace when depleted. Use enough to produce a consistent 1-2 ppm chlorine level, as verified by your test kit or strips
2. Test water daily for a few weeks, to get used to it, then 2 or 3x per week.
3. Run the filter nearly at least 12 hrs daily, and 24/7 if you can.
4. Skim the surface and brush the floor regularly, as needed, or weekly. Vacuum with a pool Leaf Rake, a garden hose Leaf Gulper or hand held rechargeable vacuum (automatic cleaners do not work well)
5. Clean the filter regularly, as needed, or weekly.
6. Add Clarifier weekly, per label dose
7. Add Algaecide weekly, per label dose
8. Add pH increaser or pH decreaser, as needed to maintain pH in 7.2 – 7.6 range.
Hi I just bought an intex inflatable pool 10x6x20 what do I need please????
Hi Michelle, if you bought the inflatable kiddie pool, I just wrote a recent post about the care and feeding of inflatable pools. https://blog.intheswim.com/how-to-maintain-an-inflatable-kiddie-pool/
Are there any chemicals to avoid? Will anything eventually eat through the pool lining?
Hi Sarah, with vinyl you do want to be careful with two products. The first is granular chlorine – must be predissolved in a bucket of clean water, stirred for 60 seconds, and then carefully pour into the pool with the pump running. The granules, if dropped onto the vinyl, can do a little micro-abrasion or corrosion that over time (years), will lead to bleaching and weakening of the vinyl, which eventually (many years), will make it brittle and prone to problems. The second chemical is dry acid, pH Reducer granules, for the same reason. Everything else is okay.
Great blog! Just bought my 9 x 18 intex pool and all of your recommended chemicals. My question is what do I do right after fill up? Add chlorine tablets only and test everyday until it reaches 2.0? I have read a lot of “pool opening” procedures with shock but do they apply only to water left in over the winter or brand new set ups too. Thanks!
Hi Liz, there may be no reason to shock a freshly filled pool, although many people do it, just to kill anything that may still be lingering from the well, the water treatment or sitting for 1-2 days before the filter was started. Shocking is also good to do every 1-2 weeks for small intex pools, due to their small size and the small size of the filter. Also shock if you see algae, or if you suspect bacteria may be present in the pool, with diapered children or many bathers, or animals, for instance. Or if you forget to refill the floater, or forget to run the pump – a shock is helpful to restore water clarity. So yes, keep enough tablets in the floater to maintain a constant and consistent 2.0 ppm of chlorine, and then shock the pool every 1-2 weeks, per label instructions. You can use chlorine shock or non-chlorine shock. You can also use a Clarifier, to help out a small Intex filter, and an Algaecide as well, both in weekly doses, per label, to help maintain water quality. FInally – pay attention to pH by checking at least weekly, and adjusting if needed to keep it in the 7.2-7.6 range.
We just bought a 18 X 48 pool what cover should we get, I would like one that keeps the water warm if possible.
Hi April, we have 18′ round solar covers that are cut to fit. There are a few grades, from thin to thick, and different colors. Standard blue is most popular. https://www.intheswim.com/c/solar-blankets-reels or https://www.intheswim.com/list/solar-pool-covers-reels/_/N-n5gZnxgZfgz
just got 13 x 33 Intex pool. What do I need to do? I’m clueless! Got it set up, just need to add chemicals. HELP!!
Hi Joanne, from this point, until the end of summer, you need a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the water. If it goes near zero, bump it up fast with 4 oz of shock, or 2 cups of bleach. Use a chlorine floater, and keep 1 or 2 tablets in there for the daily chlorination needs, Then once per week, shock the pool with 8 oz of pool shock, pre-dissolved in a bucket of water, and poured into the pool with the filter running. Run the filter nearly 24/7 for best results. Here’s a shopping list.
1. 3″ chlorine tablets, 25 lbs item C3025
2. Chlorine floater item A2605
3. Pool Shock, 6 lbs item Y8005
4. Clarifier 1 Qt item Y2000
5. Algaecide 1 Qt Y1000
6. Taylor Troubleshooter test kit item A8270, or 7-way test strips, item A8020.
7. If your pool is in a sunny area, some starter stabilizer will save you money on chlorine. Add 3 lbs of cyanuric acid per 10K gals, item Y7500
You may also need some pH adjustment chemicals, but possibly not, if your pH stays within 7.2-7.8 range.
Dave! can you give me a list of the same for my 10 x 30 intex pool??? i have a filter system for it as well
Hi Alex it’s really the same list. Only less tablets and shock, for a smaller pool. You may need only 10 lbs of tablets, which is about 20 tablets. (Each Jumbo In The Swim tablet weighs 8 oz, or 1/2 lb). Keep a tablet in the floater at all times, use enough to maintain 2.0 ppm. Check and maintain pH level 7.2 – 7.6. Use shock every 1-2 weeks to raise chlorine to 10 ppm. And a Clarifier and Algaecide are helpful, preventative measures that are added weekly.
Can you swim with the floater inside the pool, or should we take it out when there are people in the pool?
Also im assuming the filter should only be on when there are no people in the pool?
Hi Belle, the filter can run when people are using the pool, and the floater could stay in the pool as well, but if activity is rough in the pool, you can remove the floater, so it won’t tip over.
Hi Dave,
I have an intex 300x200x75
It is having most of the time slimmy floor
I am using the brush and the vacuum and the net everyday to clean them which is working but again the second day.
And I am never seeing a crystal clear water
The PH level is always transparent
I am putting 3 tablets of crystal clear chlorine everyday
What else I have to? This is driving me crazy 😂
I would look at filtration. Either the filter cartridge needs replacing, or the filter is not being run long enough each day (try 24 hrs/day), or the filter is just too small an ineffective. Transparent pH level sounds like bad reagents, they need to be replaced every few years.
Hi i have just got a 6ft east set pool with no filter. I don’t want to keep emptying it every day as it takes alot of water. I am wondering what I can do/add so I can keep water in and safe for my little girl
Hi Sara, wrote this post just for you and your little girl: How to maintain an inflatable pool: https://blog.intheswim.com/how-to-maintain-an-inflatable-kiddie-pool/
Hello! I just bought a 10 ft round Intex frame pool. Was planning on upgrading the pump as suggested but now I am wondering about splurging for the salt pump and using salt instead of chlorine. Seems like a lot for a little pool but I do like salt water over chlorine. Also, I am assuming I will still need to use chemicals to control algae correct?
Hi Elizabeth, thank you, a great question. Did you know, however, that a saltwater pool IS a chlorine pool? You add salt the water and NaOCl + H2O + electrolyis = H2O + Cl2 + OH. The Salt Chlorine Generator as they are called, produces the same exact chlorine (Hypochlorous acid) as chlorine tablets, or liquid chlorine. In my mind, such small pools should use chlorine tablets, as the Intex salt systems are a bit pricey ($200+), and not as reliable as larger inground systems. I’m a fan of using 3″ chlorine tablets and a chlorine floater on Intex pools. Keep it simple and you can thank me later. 😉
Hi Dave-
We have the Intex 15×48 pool. We set it up a little over 2 weeks ago. We shocked it a couple of days after filling it and we have 1-3 inch chlorine tablet in a floater. The chlorine level and ph levels were both high. I got the chlorine level down to ideal range but still having problems with the ph level being high. I have ph reducer and have probably used about 12 oz of it in the last 6 days. It’s better but still about 7.8. What am I missing? That is in advance for your advice.
Hi Lynne, if your pH level is resistant to change, that may mean that your alkalinity level is high. Keep adding IN THE SWIM pH Decreaser, until both your alkalinity level and pH level come into proper range.
Does the pool need to be empty for a certain amount of time after shocking? Are the higher levels of chemicals harmful to children? Thanks so much for all this info! Very helpful to us beginners.
The main concern with swimming after shocking (with granular chlorine) is that some of the granules may still be undissolved and may irritate skin or eyes. High chlorine levels may also cause skin irritation, but there is little danger otherwise. We normally advise to wait until chlorine levels have dropped below 5 ppm to allow swimming after shocking. You may also require swimmers to use a mask or goggles, to prevent undissolved granules from entering the eye.
Hi Dave,
I just got a 366*100 Bestway above ground pool, and I have no idea how much chlorine tablets to put in it. I have purchased 3 inch tablets and put half in, but I am not sure if this is correct.
Also the sides and bottom of the pool are going to a little slimy, what can I do?
Craig, you need some test strips or a test kit, to test the chlorine level in the pool. Use enough tablets to maintain a 2.0 ppm chlorine reading. For the slimy walls, elevate the chlorine level with 3 oz of Pool Shock (Calcium Hypochlorite), or you can use 24 oz of regular unscented bleach. Maintaining a good pH level is also important. Use your test kit to determine the level and add pH increaser or pH decreaser as needed.
Hi Dave Im in the same boat as Regan I have no idea what im doing and looking on the web, everyone has there own idea and I just need examples of what to do for each situation. I have a 10×30 index metal frame. Can you provide an example of how much Pool Shock u would need to do if you had to use it also same question for the Clarifier and
Algaecide.
Thank you!
Hi Jasen, your pool 10’x30″ has about 3500 gallons when full. Most pool chemicals have the instructions listed as “add x amount per 10000 gallons of pool water”, so you would just divide by 3, and use 1/3 dose – whether it’s shock, algaecide, clarifier, etc. the dose will always be printed on the label. For chlorine tablets, it’s probably just one at a time, but your test kit will tell you for sure. If chlorine level is high, use less, but if the level is low, use more (or open up the baffles on the chlorine floater a bit more). Thanks for the question, hope that helps!
Hi so i just purchase a 18 x 48 intex metal frame pool & i have no idea what chemicals i should buy to keep the pool clean. I have the filter and everything just need to know what i should buy? Any help
Hi Cici, please read the previous responses to the same comment, listed below. You will need, at the very least, chlorine tablets and a tablet floater, some granular chlorine, and Clarifier and Algaecide is a good idea for Intex pools.
Hi. I’ve never had a pool, let alone an inflatable pool. Just purchased a 10 x10 x 30 intex inflatable pool with a cover. I read the information above but it’s a bit overwhelming I’m still not sure what to buy to maintain the water. Is it necessary to buy a filter as well as chlorine? Or is either or fine?
Hi Ashley, without a filter and circulation pump, the water will only stay fresh for so long, and it should be replaced as needed, to prevent sickness. Inflatable pools are not meant to be treated and filtered, but emptied and refilled regularly. However, you can keep the water chlorinated, with twice daily additions of bleach or granular chlorine, or you can use a chlorine floater with tablets (best idea), to keep a consistent and constant level of chlorine in the water. Covering the pool will also help the water last longer and stay cleaner. However, even with chlorine and cover – without circulation and filtration, you will need to replace the water every week or two.
Thank you so much! I plan on buying the chlorine tablets and floater as well as a filter. Do you recommend a certain filter? Also, with a filter and chlorine floater, how often would I need to replace the water? And where do people typically go with all their pool water?
Hi Ashley, a filter will be hard to use on an inflatable pool because the hoses will go over the wall, and need to be held down underwater… but not impossible. You can just dump the water onto the lawn, or use a small pump connected to a garden hose, or a siphon. But you’ll never get it all, so at the end, you flip the pool over to dump the remainder – BTW, since there has been so many questions about the care of inflatable kiddie pools, I am dedicating a new blog post to the issue tomorrow. Check our blog this weekend for more details on how to filter, treat and replace the water, in an inflatable pool.
I just bought a 8.5ft x 5.5ft x 2.5ft intex pool with a cartridge filter pump model 637R,what do you recommend to maintain chlorine,ph and alkaline levels
Hi Chris, I like the Taylor TroubleshooterTaylor Troubleshooter test kit, and using chlorine tablets in a chlorine floater, with weekly shocking and maintaining pH in 7.2-7.4 rang
We just purchased a 12 x 30 pool with 1,718 gallons . My question is how many chlorine tables do I need and how often ? Same question for the shock
Edna, please read my previous comments and extrapolate an answer to match your own situation. I feel like I’m repeating myself every morning. I will tell you this – your test kit or test strips will tell you, if you are using too much or too little chlorine.
Hi, i recently purchased a 10ft above ground pool it has a capacity of 3638 Litres. Size L305, W305, D76cm. I have purchased chlorine granules instead of the tablets. How much chlorine granules do i need to put in for first time use? And then after first time use how much do i need to put in? What ppm does my pool have to be maintained at? How often do i need to put the granules in?
Hi Sara, your test kit will tell you for sure, but I like to use Poolcalculator.com to determine exact amounts of chemical to use, when needed. In your case, for your size pool, and using 65% cal hypo granules (regular pool shock), use 11 gms to raise chlorine level to 2.0 ppm, which is a good target. This will last for 12-48 hrs, depending on: pH level, sun exposure, water temperature, pool usage, debris load, cyanuric acid (stabilizer) level, and if the pool is covered or uncovered.
My question is very similar: we have a 12’ Intex pool which holds 1718 gallons. I bought granules (now wish I hadn’t) and can’t figure out how much to start with and how much to maintain. Pool calculator.com had too many variables and was too confusing ack!
Hi Oona, OK, let’s say you wanted to raise chlorine from 0.0 to 2.0, using Cal Hypo 65%, or regular pool shock, with 75° water and 7.5 pH level. For 1718 gallons, you would use 0.7 oz, or about 4 teaspoons. If you wanted to shock the pool, and raise the chlorine level to 10.0 (every few weeks), then you would use 5x that amount, or 3.5 oz, or about 1/4 cup of the granules. After using the shock, be sure to clip the bag tightly closed, and store it in a tupperware, to keep out moisture, dirt, bugs, and to prevent spills. 🙂
Hi! I purchased a small Intex family lounge inflatable pool. It’s 88in x 85in x 30in. It holds 156 gallons of water. What would you suggest for maintenance?
Hi Julie, I would first plan to empty the pool often, perhaps every two weeks or so, longer if you can keep it clean and covered and chlorinated. You can clean it with a pool brush and skim net, the Leaf Rake type of nets are also used for scooping from the floor. A siphon could be set up with a garden hose for some light vacuuming. YOu can cover it with a tarpaulin and bungee cords, connected to stakes. For chemistry, use test strips to check pH and chlorine level. Lower the pH level if it rises above 7.6, with just 1 or 2 oz of dry acid. For chlorination, the best constant/consistent method is to use a chlorine floater, with one 3-inch tablet at a time, replaced quickly when almost dissolved, or use half-dozen 1″ tablets. You can also use liquid bleach or granular chlorine, added in small doses of 1 or 2 oz, twice per day. Use your test strips to determine the best amount of chlorine to use, so as not to underchlorinate or overchlorinate. And if the water looks bad, dump it and refill. A small electric pump (cover pump) can be used, or you can make a siphon to get most of it, then flip it over to dump the rest.
Just bought a 12×30 easy set. What chemicals/supplies will I need? Thanks!
Hi, get a 10 lb bucket of 3″ chlorine tablets C3010, a six-pack of chlorine shock Y8005, a bottle of Clarifier, Y2000, a bottle of algaecide Y1000, and a 5 lb bag of chlorine stabilizer, Y7500, if your pool is in the sun (saves money on chlorine). Also will need a test kit A8270, OR test strips A8020. A chlorine tablet floater, A2605. Finally, you will probably need pH increaser or pH decreaser, if your pH strays outside of the range of 7.2 – 7.8, but perhaps you can wait and see on that one…
I have a 14×42 Intex pool. With frame and pump. I really cannot do math to find out how much gallons of water it holds. I can probably manage to use the testing kits and get the current ph of the water but I am afraid on how to get it to the recommended pH level. Should I at least start by using a 3 of 3″ tablet in chlorine floater?
Hi, I would say your pool holds around 3500 gallons, filled to 36″ depth. Start with 2 tablets, and see how that does, top reach a consistent 2 ppm of chlorine, as verified by your test kit or strip. For pH adjustments, use 1/2 lb or 8oz (1 cup) at a time, then recheck the pH level several hours later and see if more is needed. Easy! 🙂 Thanks for the question Ruby.
Just purchased an 18 x 18 48inch intex inflatable pool. What chemical should we purchase ?
Hi, get a 10 lb bucket of 3″ chlorine tablets C3010, a six-pack of chlorine shock Y8005, a bottle of Clarifier, Y2000, a bottle of algaecide Y1000, and a 5 lb bag of chlorine stabilizer, Y7500, if your pool is in the sun (saves money on chlorine). Also will need a test kit A8270, OR test strips A8020. A chlorine tablet floater, A2605. Finally, you will probably need pH increaser or pH decreaser, if your pH strays outside of the range of 7.2 – 7.8, but perhaps you can wait and see on that one…
Hi! Just bought a 12ft x 30” intex metal frame. I don’t know where to begin with the chemicals I will need. Do you have a list for a beginner? Thank you!
For Intex Pools:
1. 3″ chlorine tablets, 25 lbs item C3025
2. Chlorine floater item A2605
3. Pool Shock, 6 lbs item Y8005
4. Clarifier 1 Qt item Y2000
5. Algaecide 1 Qt Y1000
6. Taylor Troubleshooter test kit item A8270, or 7-way test strips, item A8020.
7. If your pool is in a sunny area, some starter stabilizer will save you money on chlorine. Add 3 lbs of cyanuric acid per 10K gals, item Y7500
You may also need some pH adjustment chemicals, but possibly not, if your pH stays within 7.2-7.8 range.
Hi
We have a 220x220x57 cm blow up intex pool and I have no idea what we can use in order to keep the water clean? The amount of chlorine etc. Do we need to get the test kit? We are a a family of four and will be using the pool every now and then.
Thanks
Hi Neda, you can use a chlorine floater with chlorine tablets, which is best to deliver a constant and consistent level of chlorine to the pool. Use test strips to determine how many tablets it takes to reach a consistent 2 ppm, which is probably one or two 3″ tablets or five or six 1″ tablets. Alternatively, you can add a small amount of liquid bleach each day, perhaps 4-8 oz., but this will create peaks and valleys, unless you can add a small amount several times per day. The amount needed will depend on how clean the water is, how many people use the pool (and how clean they are!), and how warm and how much sun the pool receives. If you can cover the pool during non-use that will help reduce the amount needed, and also keep it clean. Regardless, since the pool is not filtered, I would recommend dumping and refilling the pool every two to three weeks, to be sure it is safe, and be sure kids don’t drink the water, or urinate in the pool. 🙂
Do you need pH decreaser and pH increaser? or is just decreaser ok? Above I only see pH decreaser and alkalinity increaser suggested but I have notcied sites offering pH increaser and pH decreaser.
Hi Shannon, most pools will gravitate one way or another, often depending on the chlorine type used. If you use liquid chlorine, it has a very high pH (13), or a salt chlorine system, you will need pH decreaser. If you use 3″ Trichlor tablets, it has a lower pH, so you will most often need pH increaser. Some other chemicals used frequently or high pool use, or certain types of debris, will also make the pool pH go up or down, most often. So, most pools need either pH up or pH down most often, but occasionally may need both.
What is the difference between pH decreaser ad alkalinity decreaser? Is either one a better choice?
Hi Shannon, they are the same chemical. To lower alkalinity levels, one would use an acid, or pH decreaser. We don’t have a chemical called Alkalinity Decreaser, only Alkalinity Increaser.
I purchased an Intex family lounge center inflatable pool 90x 85 x 30.
I read that to keep water in there longer you could purchase InTheSwim 1” chlorinating tablets and put them in a floating chlorine dispenser.
However, since my pool only holds 156 gallons of water, how many should I put in there?
Hi Hannah, it depends on the amount of sun, the amount of swimmers, the amount of debris (including bather waste) and the warmth of the water. Your test kit or test strips will tell you for sure, but aside from that, it would probably be about 3-4 of our 1″ chlorine tablets at a time, replaced promptly when they are almost dissolved/depleted, which should be about every week. You should also change the water every week or so, since it is not being filtered.
I have a 10×30 Easy Set Intex pool that did NOT come with a pump/filter. 1. Do you I need to purchase one? 2. If yes, will you please provide a brand/model number for pump/filter? 3. Do i need a chlorine floater? 4. If yes, what size tablet and how many tablets? How often? Model is 28120EH. Thank you.
Hi Susan, yes you do need a pump/filter, to circulate and filter the water, to keep the water safe and sanitary. The filter should run nearly non-stop, small Intex filters are not made to operate only 8-hours per day, I recommend at least 16 hrs daily (every day – no vacation days). In addition to filtration and circulation, the other leg of the stool is sanitation. You need to have a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the water, every day until the end of the summer. If chlorine levels drop to zero, within 48-hours you will have a green swamp and it will be very costly and time consuming to restore the water. For the 10×30 Easy Set Intex pool, I would recommend the 530 gal filter pump, item B3516. The 1000 gal filter pump (B3518) would be a better option, and worth the extra $26, in my opinion. YOu also need a chlorine floater and tablets, that should be in the pool all the time, as mentioned above. Use enough tablets to maintain a 1-2 ppm chlorine level, as verified by your test kit or test strips. This will likely be just one 3″ tablet at a time, maybe two as weather and water gets warmer. You may need about 10 lbs of tablets for the summer. You also should have some powder chlorine (Pool Shock) on hand to periodically raise the chlorine level very high, or if you forget to add tablets and need chlorine fast. The pool pH level is also very important, not to let it get too high, add pH decreaser (an acid) to lower pH if it rises above 7.8.
I got a 12’x30″ Intex pool and used a start up kit from an online company. I think I probably put too much shock in it because I used a half a bag and I read afterwards that it said a full bag for 10k gallons (this one is only around 1700). Aside from that it mostly looks alright. I bought an Intex skimmer that is coming in soon, so hopefully that will take care of the surface.
I don’t love the strips I have because the colors are a bit hard to tell apart. My biggest question is even after shocking it with half a bag, 36 hours later it’s still showing 0ppm according to the strip. Is that possible? I just threw a floater in there, closed almost all the way up (it’s smallest setting says 5000 gallons) with a 3″ tablet. How long should it take for the water to chlorinate to the proper level and is that too much chlorine? Thanks so much.
Hi Kai, it could be possible that 36 hrs after shocking that the chlorine is zero again. Not normal, but possible. It would indicate that there is a lot of contaminants using up the chlorine so fast, or no stabilizer on sunny days. One tablet in a floater should be good for daily chlorination. If it makes it too high, you can use 1/2 tablet, either way, be sure to replace it promptly when it’s almost gone. A tablet should be measurable by a test strip within 12 hours or so, in a floater. And Oh! If you are having trouble with chlorine levels, you may need to check the cyanuric acid level, aka Stabilizer, to protect the chlorine from the sun. If you have not added any, or the level is zero, add 1lb of Cyanuric Acid to the pool, to raise the level up to 30-50 ppm, and protect the chlorine from the sun. Also be sure to maintain a good pH level, very important for chlorine potency, in the range of 7.2 – 7.6.
Hi I have a 10ft easy up pool received chlorine tablets today but no dispenser 🤷♀️ is it ok to crush 2 chlorine tablets and put them in the pool to work overnight until I receive a floater dispenser I’ve ordered which should arrive within a week
Hi Emma, yes – put them in a heavy paper bag, and use a hammer to pulverize it, then dissolve into a bucket of water. Then pour into the pool 🙂
I have a 12×30 intex pool and I was wondering how much pool shock do I put in there? Ty 😁
Hi Krystal, your pool holds about 1500 gallons, and a basic dose of shock is 1 lb per 10,000 gallons, or more, up to 5 lbs per 10K gals, depending on severity of algae. But if water is clear, go with the basic dose printed on the label. So, I would use about 1/6 of a lb, or about 2-3 ounces of pool shock. If not using a full bag of shock, be sure to clip the bag closed tightly – and store inside of a plastic tupperware… to block out insects, dirt, moisture, and prevent spills, all of which can be dangerous.
I have 1200 GALLON BESTWAY POOL AND AM HAVING AN ALGEA OUT BREAK!!
HOW MUCH ALGAECIDE SHOULD I USE?
Hi Janie, remember that you can empty and refill the pool, as an option. To Kill Algae, Pool Shock or liquid chlorine is actually more effective than algaecide, which despite the name, acts best as a preventative (algae-stat), than a true algae-cide. For shock, I would use about 8 oz of granular (1/2 lb or 1 cup), or use 2 Qts or 1/2 gallon of regular household bleach. Be sure your pH level is nice and low, where chlorine is most potent, 7.2 – 7.4 range is best for shocking. If you only have the algaecide, follow label instructions – which may be 12-18 oz. In either case, then brush the pool, and run the filter 24/7 until clear. Test water 2x per day to make sure chlorine is high and pH is low. Add Clarifier after 48 hrs to help the filter, and then Clean filter after 72 hours.
Hi i have an 18×48 prism pool we just set it up a little over a week ago and I have already did the 6 in 1 shock treatment tomorrow i should have the chlorine tablets so i can make sure to put 3 of them in my turtle chlorine tab holder… My filter doesn’t pump right though and the bottom of the pool is getting slippery will the chlorine tablets help? This is my first time owning a pool so i thought the 6 in 1 shock is all i had to do… Now i realize i still need the chlorine tablets… So when i use the chlorine tablets that should help clear up the slippery bottom right? I am still waiting on someone to get back to me about the filter too seen its not pumping like it should and its only been a week and a half… Thank you for your help!
Hi Laura, the tablets are for your everyday, constant and consistent 1.5-3.0 ppm of chlorine, all the time in the water, day/night. The shock is to boost the chlorine level occasionally, to kill any bacteria and algae that has escaped the normal chlorine routine (tablets), or for filter problems, or heavy use, heavy rains, cloudy water, etc… Use the shock every week or two, as needed, when the water looks bad or floor getting slippery. Also be sure that the pool pH level is good, not too high but in the range of 7.2-7.6. Run the filter 24/7 (very important), and brush the pool floor, vacuum the floor and skim the surface regularly, also very important, to prevent algae growth. The filter pump impeller may be clogged, if your filter is clean yet it seems to not pump with much force – which would be the main reason for your problems. Filtration, Circulation and Sanitation – the 3 pillars of clean and clear pool water!
We have a Intex above ground pool 12×30. The pool hasn’t been circulating like it was 2 day’s ago. The levels are are all normal! There aren’t any bubbles in the filter or hoses. The filter is clean. Any suggestions? Also, should we continue to run the pump 24/7? We use the tarp at night to keep our the many bugs we have in the south! TIA!
Hi Molly, the impeller may be clogged. This would be located in front of the pump, and may require removing a cover plate to access. You can also try forcing water backwards thru the pump, with a garden hose. Depending on the size, most Intex, Bestways or Summer Waves filters should run almost 24/7 (unless sufficiently oversized for the pool). Using a cover at night is a great idea. If you do want to experiment with running an Intex filter less than 24 hrs per day, use a small plugin pump timer, if your intex filter does not have a time clock.
I have a 24X52 ultra frame pool, saltwater system, sand filter pump. I cannot regulate the chlorine level or stabilizer both read low. I have algae and pool in unusable. Can I use shock or bleach without damaging the saltwater pump?
Hi Diana – yes you can! Many times, you may need to supplement a salt chlorinator with either granular or liquid shock, and also can use 3″ chlorine tablets, if your salt system is not working, or if the pump or filter have problems. All saltwater pool owners should keep a small supply of both tablets and pool shock available, or move quickly to buy for occasional emergency use.
We have a 10ft x 30in easy set pool it’s only been up a week swam in almost every day and the water is cloudy and the bottom is slightly slippery. Haven’t used any chemicals. Also cannot seem to keep the water cold in these hot temps. Any advice on chemicals? First timer here.
Hi, no way to keep the water cool… but the slippery surfaces and cloudy water needs chlorine. Your pool must have a constant and consistent level of chlorine, 24/7, to prevent algae and bacteria from growing, which can be unsanitary for swimmers. Start with a shock treatment of 1 lb of pool shock, or 1 gal of bleach, then use chlorine tablets in a floater. Brush the pool, and run the filter all day and night. No swimming for 24 hrs.
Hi can I use the same for a 8 x 5 pool ? How many tablets mine been up 2 days used two days by my kid? First timer too
Yes, pretty much the same. Every pool is different in chemical needs, dependent on sun, temps, rain, pool usage, water balance and other criteria. Your test kit will tell you if you are using too much or too little chlorine. pH is very important as well, when pH rises above 7.8, chlorine becomes very sluggish.
I have a 15 ft Intex above ground pool and am wanting to shock it. Do I use the whole 1 lb bag of granuals or do I need to measure some out? Also can my kids swim the next day?
Hi Amanda, if your depth is 36″ – that would have about 4000 gallons. Using an entire bag would be a ‘double shock’, useful for light algae or cloudy water, or a general shocking. Kids can swim the following day. It is best to use the entire bag when possible, to prevent spills, mixing with other chemicals, or contamination by moisture, insects, dirt, etc. If you don’t use the entire bag, be sure to fold over tightly, clip with two paperclips, and store safely, in a cool, dry and dark location.
Is it possible to have a “salt water” pool vice a “chlorine” pool? If so what chemicals would you suggest?
Hi Lisa, salt water pools are also chlorine pools, the only difference is that a salt pool has equipment to convert the slightly salty water into pure chlorine, not all at once of course, but just enough to keep the water sanitary. Non-Salt pools, use tablets in a chlorine floater or chlorinator, to maintain the chlorine level. Water balance is the same for both methods of chlorination, pH, alk, calcium, stabilizer)
I have an 18×48 intex with a sand filter and saltwater system that I set up a week ago. The only issue I have is the test strips are giving me a very low total hardness. Is that a big deal in a vinyl pool? Also do I need to add algicide even though the water looks perfect?
Hi Chris, the low total hardness is not a huge deal in an Intex pool. It is hard on the vinyl, and very soft water is known to foam easily, and may be more prone to clouding-up. But if you don’t experience trouble, no worries, feel free to ignore it to a point… (I would keep at least 100 ppm hardness, normal being 200 ppm). For algaecide, Dr. Pool likes to say “Chlorine is a Great Algaecide” – and I’ve heard him say that if you don’t need to use algaecide, then don’t. Algaecide does allow some buffer room, or room for error, for other problems in filtration or with occasional low chlorine, for example. For pools with marginal filter systems (like many Intex pools), it may be cheap insurance against a costlier algae bloom.
I have a 14 x 42 above ground pool
I can’t get my chlorine levels to go down
Every time I check the free an total levels are 10
And it’s recomended not swimming
I have drain about 1/4 of the water an refilled
An the chlorine levels do not change
How do I correct it
Janet, stop adding more chlorine if not done already. Chlorine will go down naturally. Sun and water agitation will help. We sell a chlorine neutralizer product that removes chlorine if needed.
I’m trying to figure out how much chemicals or what all the chemicals I need to put in the pool when I first put water in it
Hi Kelly, first and foremost, you will need a good chlorine reading in the water, 24/7 – so you will need chlorine tablets and a chlorine floater to place them in. You will also need some granular Pool Shock powder, for shock treating every month, or for algae or cloudy water, or if the chlorine level drops down to zero. If your pool gets a lot of sun, you may need to add Stabilizer, aka cyanuric acid, to protect chlorine from sun degradation, just 2 lbs per 10000 gals. Next, pH is most important, you may need pH increaser or pH decreaser, depending on if your test kit says you need it. You may also need to add alkalinity increaser or calcium hardness increaser, if your test kit says you need it. That’s about it. Oh, if your water gets cloudy, you can use clarifier on a weekly basis, to help your filter. If you see algae, treat it with shock, and then treat with weekly algaecide dosage. Finally, perhaps most importantly, run your filter long enough to do the job, which could be 24/7 if you have a weak or undersized filter system.
I have the Intex 16 foot pool. It was set up 14 days ago. The kids jumped in it on the second day but have not been in it since then, we just covered it up the next day. Since then we have not touched it or done anything to it until last night when my husband read on the internet that he should shock it, so he did. I haven’t added any other chemicals or even cut the pump on. Now they want to swim in it and I don’t know a thing about adding chemicals. I just went to Walmart and purchased some chlorine tabs and a floaty thing to put the tabs in. Should that be enough?
Hi Billie, Run the filter every day for at least 8-hours (if covered), and 16 hours per day if open. It needs daily circulation and filtration, or it’s ‘stagnant’, and stuff grows. Secondly, keep a constant and consistent level of chlorine with tablets and a floater – yes. Probably need 2-3 tablets, per 5-7 days. Add more before they dissolve completely. Third, shock the pool with 1 lb of granular shock (predissolved in a bucket, then poured in), if the water is cloudy, or if you see algae, or if the pool has been used heavily, or if the pool has been contaminated by poo-poo or barf or something. Otherwise, if the pool looks great, shock it with 1 lb anyway, every 3-4 weeks, just to be sure the water is sanitary. Also keep an eye on the pH level, 7.2-7.4 is best for chlorine potency, when pH rises above 8.0, chlorine is lazy and ineffective, and ‘stuff grows’. Use pool test strips to test your chlorine and pH level 2-3 x per week. And! Be safe, practice proper pool safety!
I just got my Intel pool on Memorial Day. I ran the filter while we were swimming in it. I don’t have chlorine in it and I haven’t ran my pump since. It’s covered. Should I drain my pool and start over? What is your recommendation?
Probably no need to drain it, just balance the pH and shock the pool with 1 lb of shock or 1 gal of bleach. Then brush the pool, and run the filter, 24/7. non-stop until Labor Day 🙂
I have a Intex model B 20’ x 48” pool how much of each chemical should I use and how often? Idk where to start
Hi Kristen, start with testing the pool water. You can use test strips, or for greater accuracy, use a test kit, to test for pH and chlorine levels, and also the water balance levels of total alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid (stabilizer). Most important are a good chlorine level of 1.0-3.0 ppm, constantly and consistently, always in the water. The minute that chlorine goes to zero, bad things begin to grow in the water. the pH level is also very important, if it gets too high (above 7.6), chlorine gets slow and sluggish and is only half as effective, resulting in cloudy, green water when not corrected. Below 7.2 and the vinyl suffers degradation, and skin, eyes and hair start to complain. Use pH decreaser or pH increaser to adjust pH to between 7.2 – 7.6.. Use a Clarifier with your little filter, to help it out, and run it near 24/7. Add 3-4 3″ chlorine tablets to a chlorine floater, and replace when empty, every 4-7 days. Use granular pool shock every few weeks, or after heavy pool use or after heavy rains, or if algae is spotted. Your pool has about 12000 gallons, remember that b/c all pool chemicals list dosages in ‘per 10,000 gallons’… oh, and keep reading more of our blog posts! Lots more to see here…
GDAY I was looking at the Intex Swim Centre Family Lounge Pool. Looks a good size but it doesn’t seem to come with a filter? Is there any way you can maintain the water quality without a filter? Chemical tablets etc? I’m not keen on wasting water refilling it every few days
Hi Bernie, Intex pools like the easy set and frame set pools do come with a pump/filter system. the Swim Center pools are just inflatable wading pools however, and do not include a filter. YOu can maintain the water for about a week with use of chlorine bleach, in most cases, but yes they are meant to be drained and refilled regularly. You could hook up an Intex filter system, but it would be a custom set-up, nothing is made for the purpose.
My pool water is very dirty I filter the water every day after swimming but then also dirty what should I do? Shall I add some chemical or other any way out
Hi Gabriel, the Intex filter is very small and not very effective. For this reason, you may need to filter the water nearly constantly, 12-24 hours per day (every day) – in addition to having good water balance (pH and alkalinity levels) and a constant and consistent level of chlorine in the water. Using a pool clarifier can help coagulate small particles that can pass thru your filter, for better water clarity. Finally, shock the pool by raising chlorine level to 10 ppm, every week or two as needed to maintain water clarity.
Just set my pool up not long ago. Test strips show everything is low. It’s a 10 foot pool (30″) deep. What do I start with and how much and, how long between adding one chemical and the next?
Hi Barbara, start with chlorine – it’s most important to maintain a Constant and Consistent level of chlorine in the water, 24/7 – at a minimum of 1.0 ppm, up to 3.0 ppm. Next most important is a good pH level, or not a high pH level. Adjust if needed to keep pH around 7.4. Add Alkalinity increaser if below 70 ppm, raising to 80-90 ppm. Add calcium hardness increaser if the level tests below 150 ppm, and add cyanuric acid (stabilizer) if there is none in the water. Be careful not to overdose in your small pool. 1 lb of stabilizer raises cya level by 10 ppm, per 10,000 gallons (approximately). I like to use poolcalculator.com to calculate chemical amounts, and the package labels will also give dosing information, right on the bucket, bag or bottle. Most chemicals can be added within a few hours of each other, or some can be added at the same time, in different sides of the pool. Consult the label for any guidelines (always read the label for dosage and treatment information). Thanks, good question!
My ph level is 8.2 how can I bring it down
Hi Carla, when pH is too high, we add an ACID to the water to reduce the pH level, and when pH is low we add a BASE to raise the pH level. There are two types of acids used to lower pH, liquid acid, or muriatic acid, and dry acid, aka sodium bisulfate, aka pH down/pH reducer/pH minus. For a pH level that is 8.2 – add 2 oz of liquid acid, or 3 oz of dry acid, for each 1000 gallons of water in the pool. Just add it directly to the pool, with the filter running. After a few hours, test the pH again, to be sure enough was added, and the pH is now in the 7.4 range. ALKALINITY also affects the pH level – if your pH rises again in a few days, you may have low Total Alkalinity levels (80-120 ppm ideal). And if your pH doesn’t move at all, or hardly at all, the Alkalinity may be too high (over 120 ppm).
We just bought the 15×48 metal frame pool but there’s no guidance about how and when to use chlorine and other chemicals. Help!
Hi Tara, for daily chlorination, use 3″ tablets in a chlorine floater, to maintain a constant and consistent chlorine level, 24/7. When chlorine levels are low, bacteria flourish and water becomes cloudy. So, use it all the time, everyday. Then shock the pool with granular or liquid chlorine every 2 weeks, to kill anything that the tablets missed, or to kill algae, restore cloudy water or remove combined chlorine molecules. Test your pH and alkalinity weekly and adjust to the proper ranges when needed.
We just purchased a pool and will set it up soon. The water from our garden hose is very hard. We have high iron and it stains. How do we get the water clear and to not stain our new pool?
Hi Laura, good question. Pleatco makes a nice pre-filter that can be put on the end of a garden hose, to remove minerals, metals, chloramines and bio-matter from fill water.
We just filled our pool and the water is green. What is the best way to fix this.
Hi Nikki, is the water green coming out of the tap? If you have well water, and the water is a bright green and very clear – it may be minerals, copper probably. In such case, don’t shock the pool right away, but start with a Stain & Scale chemical like Super Stain Away. If from a city source, or if because the pool took forever to fill, and it sat in the hot sun for 3 days… in that case, check the pH level to be sure it’s 7.2 to 7.6 (or just not higher than 7.6 actually), and then shock the pool, using 1 lb of pool shock per 10,000 gallons. If you have a small Intex pool, you can also shock with regular unscented household bleach, 1 gallon per 5000 gallons of pool water. Then run the filter, all day/all night, clean the filter as needed to keep flow rates high. brush the pool and skim the surface. A clarifier can be added in a day or two if the water is cloudy, which is common after an algae shocking