Hayward Chlorinators: Install & Maintain

hayward-chlorinators-cl220-cl220The Hayward Chlorinator is the most recognized pool chlorine feeder on the market.

Hayward chlorinators have been around since the 70’s, in the same design, and one could say it’s America’s favorite pool chlorinator.

If you use Trichlor tablets or sticks, the safest, easiest and most accurate way to slow-dissolve them is with a chlorine feeder. A pool floater can get stuck or flip over, and putting any type of pool chemical into the skimmer is a big no-no.

Aboveground or inground, all pools that use chlorine tablets, should also use a tablet feeder, like the Hayward Chlorinator.

Hayward Chlorinator Installation

The CL-200 model (CL-100 for above ground pools) can be plumbed in-line, which means that the feeder is glued in place on the return pipe, after the filter and any heater, last on the line.

The CL-220 (or CL-110) are for off-line installation. The feeder base is screwed to the floor, and hoses carry water in and out of the feeder, pushing chlorine through injection fittings in the pipes.

In-Line Hayward Chlorinator Install

Hayward CL100/CL200 are designed for permanent installation to PVC pipe or hose. Both feeders have 1.5″ female threads to connect to a hose adapter (above ground pools), or a 1.5″ male adapter. You can also buy the optional Hayward SxS Unions, connectors to match 1.5″ PVC pipe.

In-line chlorinators must be installed after the filter and after any heater. They should be installed at ground level to prevent back flow, and if you have a heater, a one-way check valve should be installed between the heater and the feeder, to prevent damage from corrosive chlorine gas.

  1. Shut off pump and open air bleeder to drain pipes.
  2. Locate section of pipe to cut, measure twice and cut, twice.
  3. Thread 1.5″ adapters (2) fully into feeder, sealing with Teflon tape.
  4. Use PVC Primer and Glue to connect pipes to adapters.chlorine-tablets-and-chlorinator
  5. Fill with America’s Favorite Chlorine!

Off-Line Hayward Chlorinator Install

If you don’t have the 9″ of clear horizontal pipe, close to the ground available to hard plumb the CL200 chlorinator, you can install an Off-Line CL-220 model. No plumbing involved, but you do need a power drill and a 3/8″ drill bit for the injection fittings.

Securing a Hayward chlorinator into a concrete floor with anchors and screws is recommended, to hold the body stationary when you remove the lid. An alternate method is to fasten the feeder to a hefty piece of pressure treated lumber that is pegged into the pad.

  1. Secure the CL220 feeder to the pad or hefty length of lumber.
  2. Mark the Inlet and Outlet locations for the hose fittings.
  3. Drill 3/8″ hole at marked locations, clean holes of any burrs.
  4. Install hose fitting/gasket and clamp firmly to pipe.chlorine-tablets-and-chlorinator
  5. Connect feed hoses, cutting off excessive excess.
  6. Fill with slow dissolving Trichlor tablets or sticks!

 Hayward Chlorinator Maintenance

The Hayward Chlorinator is a workhorse and doesn’t need too much attention to keep plugging away. Here’s some items that may need attention from time to time:

Clogged Chlorinator: A cheap chlorine tablet can leave behind a crusty, goopy residue. Do not use any solvents or chemicals to clean, which can cause a reaction. Use only water to flush out the feeder. For Off-Line models, a new Check Valve & Inlet Fitting (CLX220EA) is in order every few years, to keep water flowing properly. Also replaceable is the internal standpipe or feeder pipe (CLX200H).

hayward-chlorinator-capStuck Chlorinator Lid: The Hayward Chlorinator has a unique internal o-ring, made of Viton, a chlorine resistant rubber. It can grip very tightly, and if the base is not anchored tightly, be almost impossible to remove. There is an aftermarket lid wrench available, or removal tool.

Lid O-ring Replacement: The Viton Lid O-ring mentioned above? It needs replacement if it becomes distended or pinched. Remove the logo cap to get at the screw to separate the inner top and o-ring from the outer top. Lube your chlorinator lid o-ring (CLX200K) regularly to keep smooth operation.

hayward-chlorinator-accessory-pak-clx220gaHose Replacement: Although the black poly hoses used for the Off-Line CL-220 model are UV resistant, they don’t last forever, especially in strong sunlight or freezing winters. Fortunately, you can buy an 8′ replacement chlorinator tubing (CLX220J), or the Accessory Pak (CLX220GA) for hose, clamp, nuts and fittings.

Winterizing a Hayward Chlorinator: For safety’s sake, please remove all tablets and rinse the inside with clean water thoroughly. Do not replace the lid for storage, chlorine residue may continue to gas off. Store open in a cool, dry area during periods of non-use, or just remove the drain plug and leave it connected for winter.

With regular maintenance and a few replacement parts every few years, your Hayward Chlorinator can give a lifetime of service!

Davy Merino
InTheSwim Staff Blogger


It was a Dark and Cloudy Pool…

cloud-pool-water-7It was the stormiest, rainiest June on record in Illinois this past month with July not proving to be much of an upgrade, and the cloudy skies have equaled cloudy pool water.

The rain isn’t the only culprit conspiring to murk-up my water, but it certainly is the ringleader.

Storms have brought with them their henchman of dissolved solids: metals, soil, fertilizer, and the rest the Cloudy Water Gang.

These uninvited guests have crashed my pool party for the last five weeks, and I have amassed my own crew of bouncers to Roadhouse these punks out of the water. It’s time to unleash some water clarifier power.

I am a relatively new pool owner, and I have been performing my own trial and error (more error than I may care to admit) tests to find the products that work best for my 20,000 gallon inground pool. The last five weeks have yielded varying results all of which have been reset by nearly daily downpours. At least the constant rains have been lending the opportunity to a new product week-after-week.

Week 1: Ahhh, a month ago. The potential for an endless summer of sunshine and 90 degree days lay before me, and all I had left to do was put that final polish on the pool water. It just needed some minor clearing-up that a bottle of In The Swim Clarifier could handle with ease.

intheswim-clarifier-2Since it was my initial attempt at clarifying the water since the initial opening, I poured the full 32 oz. bottle of the economically priced In The Swim Clarifier directly into the skimmer, and let the filter run for 48 hours. I was hopeful the pool would be clearer than the day before and ready to be thoroughly vacuumed. I still had time before guests arrived for the weekend, and the Clarifier had plenty of time to circulate through my Hayward Sand Filter.

It worked great, and by that sunny Saturday morning the pool looked perfect. “This pool stuff is easy”, I thought to myself, as storm clouds began to gather in the distance. “I hope it doesn’t rain today.”

Week 2: By the time I saw my guests off, apologizing for the bad weather and soggy BBQ, the pool water had turned a whiter shade of pale. Our muddy Shepherd and cannonballer Bulldog (who love the pool even more than me) certainly contributed to the water’s foggy state, and somehow a small flower pot had landed in the pool. The water level had risen by about an inch and continued to rise as it rained for pretty much the rest of the week.

super-clarifierThat Thursday I slumped back into the company store for some more Clarifier. As I thought about my Bulldog splashing into the pool, I reached for the In the Swim Super Clarifier this time around. The stakes seemed a bit higher, and I had a pool party to redeem in a little less than a day. Super Clarifier is concentrated, and required a smaller dosage than the previous week’s Clarifier, a direction I ignored.

As I poured half the bottle into the water, I was sure that my water problem demanded more than what was directed. I was wrong. Super Clarifier is powerful stuff and works great, if you follow the directions.

My water was cloudy all weekend because I overdosed it. As I later read (on this very blog), too much clarifier can have the opposite effect, and act as a dispersant, not a coagulant.

Week 3: After nearly 24 hr daily filtering, the water was clear once again, partially due to the absence of Guapo, the Cannonballing Bulldog. I dealt with some minor pH and alkalinity balancing issues that were resolved by Wednesday, and by Thursday morning I stood at the edge of the pool deck and thought, “It’s kinda clear. Pretty clear, I guess. But it can be better.” Back to the company store.

jacks-sapphire-stuffThe slight water line stain that was slowly forming around the pool, so the decision to buy Jack’s Magic Sapphire Stuff was easy. Sequestering agent to get rid of metals? Check. Flocculant for suspended particles? Check. Clarifier and Stain remover for that waterline stain…Check.

This time I followed the directions implicitly and It seemed to magically work immediately. I still have half a bottle left of Sapphire Stuff by the amazing man of pool science, Jack.

Week 4: The 4th of July was a success, aside from the odd expression on everyone’s face when they first got in the water that weekend. “It’s like bathwater,” was the general consensus of the 10 or so guests, all covered in suntan lotion, oil, BBQ sauce, sparkler residue and who knows what else.

The weather was hot, the pool water was hot, and everyone had a good time. It didn’t rain but the perfect storm was brewing in my pool as the combination of heat and pollutants from my stewing swimmers left the pool water the hue of skim milk. There was nothing luxurious about this milk bath.super-floc-out

I was going to have to call in the Patrick Swayze of pool chemicals–Roadhouse Patrick Swayze, not Dirty Dancing Patrick Swayze: In the Swim’s Super Floc Out.

First, I raised the pH, as recommended, and diluted 16 oz of Super Floc Out into a bucket of water and poured it around the pool. I ran the pump for a few hours, and then turned it off to let chemistry happen.

Pool Floc vs. Pool Clarifier

The main difference between Floc and Clarifier is that Floc attaches to the particles in the pool water to increase their size and weight, forcing it to settle to the pool floor, while the pump is off. Clarifiers on the other hand, also coagulate to increase particle size, but work with the filter to trap the particles as the pump circulates the water.

I used the Floc correctly, but didn’t vacuum to waste. Later that day, when I only saw half the results I expected, I re-read the bottle and discovered that I should have been vacuuming the water to waste, out of the pool, and not run it thru the filter.

In The Swim Clarifier and Super Floc are powerful, effective chemicals that undeniably work wonders if you are willing to read and follow directions, which I sometimes fail to do…

In Summary…

As a write from my Week 6 perspective, I have the hindsight of five weeks of trial and error. It’s been an experience that has given has given me the clarity to know which pool clarifier product to call upon when presented with cloudy pool water.

chicken-fight-in-the-poolAfter a month of cloudy water, I let the dust settle, and vacuumed my pool with the filter on the “waste” setting. I didn’t lose as much water as I worried about, as the water levels were already slightly high from all of the rain, and it only needed about an hour of refilling. The pool finally looks crystal clear and I am ready for Pool Party Redemption!

With another 6 weeks of a summer to go I’ll test two new products that I put on the company store tab – Sparkle Plus Pool Water Clarifier, and a new item Ultra-Clarifying tabs. The directions say to use 1 tab in the skimmer, but I’m thinking it might call for more.

Ryan Dornan
In The Swim Staff Blogger


Pool Phosphate Problems

dr-pool-phosphatesWelcome back to the lab, students of pool care! As a follow-up to my post below on Algae Eradication, it seems that I only briefly touched on a very important cause of algae – Phosphates.

Our discussion today focuses on the causes and effects of phosphate on a recurrent pool algae problem.

Phosphates are the number one cause of persistent algae problems. It is estimated that nearly all outdoor pools have measurable phosphate levels.

What are Phosphates?

Phosphates are compounds of phosphorous, a fairly common element on earth. Phosphates are naturally occurring in plants and rocks, and are also found in human and animal waste. They are a primary component in fertilizers and industrial cleaning products.

phosphate-chart-for-poolsHow Much is Too Much? Phosphates enter the pool from many sources, so many in fact that a goal of zero pool phosphates may be unattainable. For swimming pools, 100 ppb, or 0.1 ppm could be considered an acceptable minimum, with levels over 300 ppb being treated with phosphate remover.

Testing for Pool Phosphates

aquachek-phosphate-test-kitPhosphates are tested with the use of a color comparison test. Powder packets are added to a small vial of water (Aquachek, Taylor) or phosphate test strips (Hach, Lamotte) can also be used. Results are ready within 1 minute, at which point the color of the vial solution or the test strip is compared to a blue gradient chart.

Phosphate test kits primarily measure orthophosphates. A Total Phosphate test kit will also measure for metaphosphates. This is quite similar to how Free and Combined Chlorine levels add up to Total Chlorine.

Removing Pool Phosphates

phos-free-for-poolsFortunately, the process for removing phosphates can be accomplished fairly easily. The first step is to check and balance the water chemistry, kill any visible algae and have a clean pool filter at the ready.

Pour PhosFree into the skimmer, to form a phosphate trapping layer inside of your pool filter. After 48 hours, backwash the filter and retest phosphate levels to be sure they are below 100 ppb.

pool-perfect-plus-phos-feeeAlso available from Natural Chemistry is another Lanthanum based phosphate remover, combined with a natural enzyme in Pool Perfect + PhosFree. Use for controlling phosphate levels, with a regular ongoing maintenance dose.

If you find over time that your phosphate level rises again, you may investigate some causes such as fertilizer or mulch washing into the pool during heavy rainstorms, over-hanging trees or dust storms.

Phosphates are the number one cause of persistent algae problems, and it deserved this additional column space.

If you have recurrent algae problems, I can almost guarantee that you have high levels of phosphates in your pool water. But don’t take my word for it, test for phosphates and find out for yourself!

Class Dismissed!


Dr. Pool


Break the Algae Cycle this Summer!

green-pool-againThere are some pools that are so contaminated from years of algae blooms that eradication seems impossible.

If your pool, or someone you know has several algae battles each summer, there is a solution, in fact there are many.

Today I will share some methods for removing algae from a swimming pool – permanently.

STEP ONE: Decontaminate

dead-algae-cellsAfter many consecutive algae blooms, the cellular remains of dead algae become the genetic building blocks of future generations. You can’t see it but it’s there, a framework for a new algae colony.

Change the Filter Media: Filter sand, filter cartridge or filter grids should be replaced. That means change the filter sand, replace the cartridges or new set of DE grids. Even if you do a deep cleaning, you’ll never remove all of the dead algae DNA – it’s important to replace the pool filter media.

Buy New Pool Stuff: Anything with a soft or semi-soft surface will harbor algae genetic material. Throw out and buy new pool brushes, skim nets, soft pool cleaner parts, pool noodles, and vinyl or foam pool floats. Anything with a semi-porous surface that has been soaking in the pool has to go, sorry.

Drain the Pool: I know this all sounds severe, but if you really want to fully decontaminate the pool, the water needs to be changed. For pools in water restriction areas, or for homes on well water, mobile pool water recycling may be an option in your area, or have treated water delivered to you, by truck.

Clean the Pool: While the pool is drained, an acid wash or a bleach wash can be done (but not both at the same time!). Vinyl pool liners in good condition can be washed with a TSP solution and reset while filling, but older liners should be replaced, as vinyl is fairly absorbent. Also, vinyl pools can harbor algae beneath the liner, on the walls or floor.

STEP TWO: Destroy

A Super Shock can be achieved with 4 bags of 65% Cal Hypo per 10,000 gallons, to raise the chlorine level to above 30 ppm, which is sufficient to kill most forms of algae, visible and invisible. Dissolve first in a bucket full of water, 2 bags at a time, with a proper pH level.

yellow-out-green-to-cleanA Chlorine Accelerator like Yellow Out or Green to Clean can be used to boost chlorine shock activity and potency. Follow the instructions to the letter, particularly proper pH level, dosage amount and timing.

Even if you have drained your pool and refilled, a super shock is necessary to kill any remaining algae hidden away, that may become viable.


After step one and two, the next and final step is to prevent algae from returning. In addition to good water balance, normal sanitation and regular oxidation, your pool may benefit from one or all of these specialty algaestat chemicals, for added protection against a recurrence.

no-mor-problems-blogNo Mor Problems: An algaecide that contains 41% sodium bromide, it inhibits algae growth while clarifying the water and helping to prevent pool stains. I had a very pleasant email just this week regarding a happy No Mor Problems user.


eclipse-3-algaecideEclipse 3: Used by several large waterparks, Eclipse 3 is a mineral based algaecide that is chelated, or stabilized to prevent staining. Eclipse 3 also contains clarifiers to help coagulate the smallest particles, including dead algae.


sea-klear-90-day-algaecideSea Klear 90 Day: Another mineral algaecide, using chelated copper to reduce your chlorine demand and prevent algae growth. The 11.8% elemental copper is the strongest available, and it even comes with a Sea Klear 90 day no algae guarantee.


pool-perfect-plus-phos-feeePool Perfect + Phos Free: Phos-Free is a phosphate remover, which every pool with an algae problem should use to keep phosphates below 100 ppb. PP + PF combines Enzymes (Pool Perfect), to consume organic matter (like dead algae).


intheswim-algaecide-60-plusIn The Swim Algaecide 60 Plus: A Polymer algaecide is very effective algae preventative, without taking control away from your chlorine. Our strongest formula, Algaecide 60 Plus can be used weekly without foaming or staining.


I didn’t say it was going to be easy, or cheap!

To eradicate algae completely, even if it’s been a swamp every year for ten years, complete Steps 1 and  2, and then choose two of the chemicals from Step 3, applying regular maintenance doses, as a preventative measure.

To beat a tough algae problem, you’ve got to kill it, then remove all traces of it, and then keep it from coming back! Or, Decontaminate, Destroy and Deter!


Dr. Pool



Swimming Pool Safety Products

pool-safety-products-at-intheswimRight now in North America we are at the peak of pool season, and also at the peak of pool accidents.

Improving pool safety should be on every pool owner’s mind; over time it’s natural to become complacent.

Take a look at your own pool and see how adding a few pool safety products can make your pool safer!

Safer Swimming Pools

For protecting children under 10 and dogs over 10 ~ a pool alarm sounds an alert at the pool, and also in the house.

poolside-alarms-by-pooleyePoolside alarms sound when an object over 15 lbs falls into the pool. Wearable pool alarms will sound a remote alarm when a transmitter, worn by child or dog, is submerged in water.

Safer Pool Fences

A primary pool perimeter fence is required in nearly all parts of the U.S., and they need occasional repair to keep them non-climbable, and to be sure the fences self-close and self-latch, as required.

mesh-pool-fencingA typical 3-sided pool fence doesn’t provide much protection. Boost your barrier with secondary fencing, mesh pool fence sections, which restrict access while preserving visibility.

safet-latch-hinge-and-latchAdding self-closing Safe-T Latch hinges and child proof latches will also add a strong layer of protection. They easily retrofit to nearly any pool gate style or materials.

Safer Main Drains

VGB stands for Virginia Graeme Baker, who was entrapped on a main drain cover. The VGB Act requires pools to use safe drain covers for main drains and suction outlets.

hayward-antientrapment-drain-coverFor most inground pools with main drains or water feature suction outlets, the VGB compliant Hayward Drain Cover will fit nicely, and make your pool that much safer. aquastar-hocky-puck-main-drainThe AquaStar “Hockey Puck” drain cover can also retrofit to nearly all 6-8″ round pool main drains.

Safer Pool Ladders

safety-pool-ladder-step-kit-smPool ladders are pretty safe, or so you may think. Fact is, hundreds of adults are injured each year on pool ladders that break during use.

commercial-pool-ladder-smIf your pool ladders see heavy use from heavy adults, swap it out with our heavy duty commercial pool ladder, or beef up your existing ladder with the Safety Ladder Step Kit.

Safer Pool Pets

dog-days-of-summer-2Although most go unreported, it is estimated that 1000 pets drown annually in US swimming pools. Most occur to very young or very old dogs, with poor vision and poor swimming ability.

Protecting your pets means training them on how to exit the pool, if possible. Where no exit stairs exist, a Skamper Ramp or some other means of egress can be installed.

safety-turtle-on-dogSafety covers or safety fencing is also a good choice, as well as in-pool alarms or wearable alarms like Safety Turtle.

See all of our alarms and safety equipment for pools, and take a look at your own pool and see how you can make your pool safer - for children, friends and family pets!

Davy Merino
InTheSwim Blog Editor


Stop Taking Water Samples to the Pool Store

pool-test-resultsThe first mistake I made as a new pool owner was the first sentence I said to my former pool guy, “I’m new to this, and I don’t know anything about owning a pool.”

I now know that the gleam in his eye upon hearing my confession was the distant glow of dollar signs populating his pupils, and faster than I could say “budget conscious”, I was the proud owner of a new pump and filter.

THE-POOL-STOREAfterwards of course, I went to the Pool Store to get my “Free” water sample test because, after all, I was a novice pool owner that “didn’t know anything about this stuff”.

Little did I know that I would be limping out of the Pool Store with several very large buckets of acids, bases, calcium and conditioner, and an LED underwater light show. I was lucky to escape with my shirt. The Pool Store clerk looked me right in the eye and recommended that I come in once a week for testing, “just to be safe”.

Would I eventually need all of these chemicals and equipment? Probably, eventually. Could I have saved hundreds of dollars buying them as elsewhere? Absolutely. If only I was aware of InTheSwim.com as opposed to my overpriced, local Pool Store. (I was not yet an employee of this fine organization).

How I Broke Free of Free Water Testing

While test strips are a handy tool they are not entirely accurate and can be a bit ambiguous with their color coding system. They are great for a ballpark, at-a-glance test. What test strips really are is a ticket to the pool store water testing money machine.

k2005-test-kit-by-taylor-at-intheswimSo, I bought the same pool test kit that the Pool Store uses to do the water testing, and now I do it myself! The Taylor K2005 or K2006 test kits are easy to use, only takes a few minutes for accurate results, and has saved me from amassing a stockpile of pool chemicals that I may or may not need.


I’ve come a long way from the doe-eyed, wet-behind-the-ears, new pool owner and the first and most important step is understanding my pool chemistry.

I test my pool about 3 times per week, an easy process and most importantly highly accurate and trustworthy, which is more than I can say for the Pool Store.

taylor-test-kit-instructions-K2006Taylor test kit directions on the lid of the carrying case, and precise chemical dosage charts tell you exactly how to test and adjust any size pool or spa, without trying to sell you 30 pounds of a chemical you may only need to use once.

What Chemicals Do You Really Need?

Hat tip to Christina, who recently wrote an entire post on what pool chemicals to keep on hand, but really each pool is different. Typically, barring drastic circumstances, you will need pH increaser/ decreaser, alkalinity increaser, calcium increaser and perhaps some cyanuric acid increaser, to maintain good pool water balance.

chemicalsNobody wants to store a sweltering garage full of chemicals all summer long—chemicals that you might not use at all. While it’s great to have supplies on hand, bulk supplies of pool chemicals isn’t necessarily needed.

Pool Owner – Heal Thyself: Pool stores do not operate like your friendly neighborhood hardware store. Ever get that uneasy feeling when you walk into a Pool Store and feel like bait on a hook in shark infested waters? Pool supply stores often operate on incentive based wages and/or commissions and spiffs. They want you to buy bulk items, sale items or specialty cross-sell items.

thumb-on-the-scaleAnd, I hate to say it, but some water test jockeys at Pool Stores have their Thumb on the Scale, so to speak – when testing your water or entering results, or the size of your pool – which inflates dosage amounts needed, and costs you money.

On a hot summer weekend, or after a busy work day, the last thing I want to do is leave my house with a sample of pool water and traverse three suburbs to have some kid size-me-up, spout off any number he pleases with my water test results and ransack my checking account.

taylor-k2006-pool-store-test-kitYou do not have to be a chemist to test your own pool water accurately, you do not need a glorified water testing machine at some strip mall Pool Store to sell you what you don’t need.

Stop taking water samples to the Pool Store – buy your own Taylor Pool Store Test Kit, and take control of your pool chemistry!

Ryan Dornan
InTheSwim Staff Blogger