5-Step Hayward Pool Filter Repairs

DE pool filter cutaway Making your own pool filter repairs is the subject of today’s post.

I’ve outlined the 12 most common repairs that you may need to do at some point to your Hayward filter or to any pool filter.

Simple hand tools is all that’s required to maintain and repair a Hayward pool filter, along with a few Hayward filter parts.

You also need to know some process about repairing pool filters ~ I hope these 5-step summaries are helpful.

Hayward Sand Filter Repairs

add-new-filter-sand-smSand Change: Replace your filter sand every 5-7 years or sooner if your filter is undersized or if it has cleaned up a few algae blooms. Jackie wrote an entire “How To Change Pool Filter Sand” post about how to change pool filter sand, but here’s a 5-step summary.

  1. Drain the tank by removing the drain cap.
  2. Remove the top mounted valve or dome.
  3. Scoop out, or use a wet/dry vac to remove sand.
  4. Pour in new #20 silica sand, labeled pool filter sand.
  5. Replace valve or dome securely, start up filter on Rinse.

hayward-folding-lateral-umbrella-assemblyLateral Replacement: Replace your laterals every 10 years. When one cracks, replace the entire set of  laterals. If sand begins to pour into your pool, the usual cause is one or more broken laterals – here’s how to fix it, in 5-steps.

  1. Drain tank and remove sand, as described above.
  2. Fold up the laterals vertically, or unscrew threaded laterals from hub.
  3. Snap in or screw in your new sand filter laterals.
  4. Cap the standpipe, and pour the sand back in, or use new sand.
  5. Replace valve or dome securely, start up filter on Rinse.

Hayward Multiport Valve Repairs

multiport-valve repairsValve Change: If your multiport valve begins to leak or the handle loses tension, you could repair it with a new key assembly or a new spider gasket, or you could just replace the entire valve – in just 5-steps.

  1. Cut pipes with hacksaw, leaving enough pipe to reconnect.
  2. Unclamp valve from tank, wiggle and pull up to remove.
  3. Lube o-ring and push new valve on standpipe, clamp tightly.
  4. Wrap threads 4x with Teflon; screw hand tight, plus 1-1/4 turn.
  5. Rejoin pipes with coupling or union; using PVC primer and glue.

white-spider-gasketSpider Gasket Change: Losing water out of the backwash line? Remove the top of the multiport valve and inspect the spider web style gasket. If it’s twisted, broken or worn, here’s how to replace it – 5-step style.

  1. Remove 6 screws around valve lid and pull out key assembly.
  2. Use small flathead screwdriver to remove all of the old gasket.
  3. Place small dabs of super glue or silicone in the grooves.
  4. Press in new gasket, wipe off any excess silicone.
  5. Reassemble by replacing key assembly in the proper orientation.

multiport-valve-leaksCracked Valve Body: If there is a small crack around where the pipes screw into the valve ports or where the pressure gauge screws in, these were over tightened or had too many layers of Teflon tape (use 3-4 layers over clean threads).

  1. Obtain SuperGlue ® or a liquid 2-part epoxy, like Plast-Aid ®.
  2. Cut pipe on cracked port, or remove gauge and clean threads.
  3. Thread pipe or gauge into hole to expand crack to it’s widest.
  4. Squirt expanded crack full of Super Glue or liquid epoxy.
  5. Quickly remove pipe or gauge; allow glue or epoxy to set up.

Hayward Cartridge Filter Repairs

MTA-PVCLeaking Pipe Connections: If your filter is leaking where the pipes come in and out, inspect for cracks around where the pipes screw in. If noticed, fill with epoxy as described above. If leaking around the pipes, replace them in 5-steps.

  1. Cut leaking PVC pipe(s), leaving 2 inches of clear pipe to reconnect.
  2. Unthread the pipe(s) from the filter in/out port.
  3. Wrap new Male Threaded Adapter with 4 layers of Teflon tape.
  4. Screw new MTA fittings into filter body, hand tight, plus 1-1/4 turns.
  5.  Rejoin with pipe, a coupling or union, and PVC primer and glue.

hayward-clamp-band-filterLeaking Filter Clamp: For your safety’s sake, when you start up the filter, if the belly band holding the tank halves together or holding the multiport valve is leaking, shut off the pump immediately and take these 5 steps.

  1. Remove clamp band and top filter half completely.
  2. Remove belly band o-ring, and wipe clean with paper towel.
  3. Replace tank o-ring and apply a thin layer of pool lube.
  4. Replace lid and tighten up clamp band as tight as it will go.
  5. If it still leaks, loosen clamp band, reposition it, and retighten.

Cracked Filter Tank: If your filter tank has a pinhole leak or a full blown crack, the only repair to make it to replace the filter tank.

For sand filters or older stainless steel tanks, it’s not cheaper to buy an entire new filter, but depending on the age, filter tanks or tank halves can cost 50-80% of the cost of a new filter.

Hayward DE Filter Repairs

de-filter-grids-DE Filter Grid Replacement: Every 10 years or so, DE filter grid fabric starts to break down and develop holes or rips. When one goes, the others will soon follow. Brett wrote a how to replace your DE filter grids in 6 easy steps post with great pictures on how to change out DE filter grids, but here’s the 5-step executive summary.

  1. Remove wing nuts on top of manifold  to disassemble completely.
  2. Place the manifold upside down on two bricks facing upwards.
  3. Start with the partial grid, and push all of the grids into the manifold.
  4. Place the bottom spreader on top and work it between the grids.
  5. Replace the thru bolts and tighten wing nuts, pulling assembly tight.

DE Manifold Replacement: Another cause of DE powder spilling into the pool is a cracked top manifold, or missing air screen or sock. Follow instructions above for changing DE grids to replace the manifold.

hayward-perflex-nest-assyDE Finger Replacement: If you have a Perflex® DE Filter, you don’t have filter grids, you have Flex Tubes, aka ‘fingers’. Like filter grids, these deteriorate over time. You can replace just a few if needed or buy the entire filter nest assembly.

  1. Remove the nuts and bolts around the top and bump handle pins.
  2. Remove filter lid, then lift out the entire nest assembly.
  3. Slide off the tube sheet top, and pull up the damaged flex tubes.
  4. Push the new fingers in place snugly, replace tube sheet top.
  5. With nest assembly in place, secure the filter top and bump handle.

exclamation pointA word of caution: Filter systems are under pressure and can explode or rupture if clamp bands are not properly installed, or if valves after the filter are closed or pipes plugged while the pump is running. Open air bleeder and all return lines before restarting the pump!

A call to action: Make your own filter repairs with our factory fresh, original Hayward pool filter parts, shipped fast from our 9 parts distribution centers around the country. Besides Hayward parts, we carry filter parts for 20 other brands, old and new!

Give us a call or send an email if you need more information on making your own pool filter repairs, or identifying the correct filter part.

Davy Merino
InTheSwim Blog Editor



5-Step Hayward Pool Filter Repairs — 73 Comments

  1. Hi Davy, I have a SM 2000 series filter, Model 2060. The filter has a dripping leak from the lid closure. I replaced the o-ring and used silicone lube on the tank groove and the lid as well as the o-ring. The leak has not gone away. I inspected the metal surfaces of the tank and lid. The o-ring groove in the tank body is nice and smooth. The lid paint has started chipping away in some areas, and one area of the lid surface that goes against the groove has some corrosion pitting. Three questions. First, is it typical for paint chipping and corrosion pitting on the surface that goes against the o-ring? Second, is the paint chipping or pitting the likely cause of the leak? Any suggestions? Thank you.

    • Hi Greg, I’m not sure if the pitting and corrosion is normal, and I suppose that it could be the cause of the leak, if the pitting were very deep. But if quite small and shallow, probably not. If rusty/crusty, use some sandpaper or sanding block, or even a small smooth rock to sand it down smooth. In your case, the o-ring should fit very tight around the tank, other filters fit a bit more loosely (but not ‘loose’). if a generic o-ring was used that could be a problem, although generics are usually on spec. When tightening the clamp band, it is helpful to tap the band in 2-3 areas around the band, to help seat it fully, and filter clamps do need to be tightened very tightly, until they squeak and creak, and for clamps with a spring, all spring coils should be touching. Also helpful at times is moving the clamp to a new location, so that the bolt/nut is in a different location than before. Some filter lids also have to be aligned with an arrow on the bottom tank half, for proper sealing.

  2. When I start up my pool pump (by timer of course) I get leakage at the center of my Hayward C4000 filter housing, at the clamp. Actually, quite a bit of water comes out! If the air release valve is open, this doesn’t happen. I’ve replaced the O-ring (last year) and it seems as though it’s a smaller diameter than the one I had (I’ve had this pool since 2002). Also, I’ve replaced the air release valve, the pressure gauge, and the small O-ring gasket inside that valve.
    It seems at start up there is too much pressure to hold that major O-ring from leaking. Once up and running for a few minutes it stops leaking and seems to work fine.
    Does this seem like a gasket issue or a air release valve issue? I’m at a loss and can’t afford to lose this much water at start up every day!
    Thank you, Gregg

    • Hi Gregg, sounds like a gasket issue, the large tank o-ring, or ‘belly band’ o-ring. On the Super Star Clear filter tanks (C4000), the Hayward part number is DEX2400K, however this part has been discontinued by Hayward. O-429 is the generic replacement. O-430 is nearly the same, but slightly smaller, perhaps you have the wrong o-ring. Lube on the o-ring is also important, and every year or so it’s good to clean the o-ring with a rag, to remove any grime, and clean the tank groove of any dirt (or DE powder for DE filters), then apply a fresh coat of lube all-over, by using a rag or paper towel, to apply a coating of Teflon or Silicone based o-ring lubricant, to help improve seal and protect the rubber. Also, the clamp band spring should compress fully, so that all spring sides are touching. Tap the clamp band around the outer edge with a hammer or heavy tool, when it first tightens up, then crank it down tight with a socket wrench or closed end wrench until it squeaks and creaks.

  3. Hello Davy, I have an older Hayward EC75 Perflex DE Filter. It works great but recently the bump handle is very hard to operate. I have to remove the handle and hit the pin with a rubber hammer to force it down. Then, after after spraying it with WD40, I reattach the handle and pull the pin up. It works good then to bump but in a week, I have to do this procedure all over again. Pressure is fine and no leaks anywhere. Any idea what is causing this?

    • Hi Dave, sorry for the delayed response, was at the national pool show – anyway, under the lid, attached to the shaft, above and below the two plates, are small o-rings (O-30), that likely are dry and choked with DE powder. It’s a repair that can take an hour or so, to pull out the nest, (hose it off well and set it in a tall bucket), then remove clips to pull off the top plate. Replace the o-rings and lube heavily with Silicone based lube like Magic Lube II (red label), and reassemble. WD-40 can actually eat away at the o-rings, so not recommended. You can find the $1.19 O-30 o-rings on the perflex parts page, and look at the schematic image to see how it’s assembled with the o-ring, clip and washer above and below the plates…

  4. Hi Dave, I have a Pentair 48ft DE fiter and after taking apart and cleaning grids, it leaks around the band. Replaced the O-ring and lubed it but it still leaks. The bolt on the band is tightened all the way which never happened before. I checked the main top and bottom parts of the filter and there are no cracks or damage. Why does the band not tighten up enough now to stop leaks?

    • Hi Rich, some DE filters, like Pentair FNS Plus, have a back-up ring, pn 195339, which is also called an o-ring retainer, a round metal back-plate that the o-ring sits against. It may be pushed down into the tank, or may have fallen off the top tank half, when removed. If that does not apply in your case, I would suggest replacing the o-ring.

      • Yeah I never saw a back plate on the O-Ring. Just the beige fiberglass shell.
        Not sure why the band is tightening all the way but not sealing

        • Rich, that could be a dangerous situation, if the lid were to blow off. Inspect the clamp band and threaded bolt and nut, and the tank sealing surfaces closely for damage. Take a look at our schematic diagrams in our parts department to see if you are missing any parts. O-rings can become smaller over time, but not usually so much as to cause your particular symptoms.

  5. Since I have started with a new pool maintenance company. My filter pressures have been over 30 pounds consistently. My filter is not properly primed weekly. My automatic vacuum has not worked in the past month since I have issues with the filter. I noticed recently that the lid on the filter wasn’t closed tight enough and water was dripping from where the clamp is. My trap basket was broken but the pool guy didn’t notify me. I have to inspect the filter myself and fix problems myself. Recently just after the pool guy left last Monday I noticed the vacuum wasn’t working, the pump was not primed and big air bubble were going back into the pool. I has the owner of the company come out. He noticed that all of my DE cartridges were broken including the big plastic parts. They were just replaced less than 2 years ago and my pool did not get a lot of use this summer. Could the cartridge damage be due to negligence by the company of not maintaining the filter. In addition I check the chemicals all the time and the pH has been over 9 and alkaline high for the past 2 months.

    • Hi Michele, yes it could be due to negligence. If you can document these issues for the owner, perhaps he would see his way clear to installing a new set of grids for you, which wouldn’t cost him more than $100, plus labor. Grids should last ten years, and collapsed grids is always a result of not backwashing often enough, not using enough DE, or deadheading the system, all items that they were supposed to prevent, presumably. Either way, I would find a new pool company, sounds like trouble…

  6. I cannot get the filter basket cover on my pump to move. It is loaded with pine needles blown into pool during TS Irma. Turned off pump released pressure at drain hose cock. It has probably not been removed for a year. Cannot budge it using supplied handle even smacking it with the heel of my hand.

    • Try also opening the air relief on the pool filter tank, and depending on what type of lid you have on the pump, you can often use other tools, some can use a 2×4, or a long rod, positioned between the upright tabs, others can use a long 2×4 with a hole cut out of the middle, or other rod or board to get leverage. Or call over a strong neighbor to help. They can really get stuck on there sometimes!

    • Try also opening the air relief on the pool filter tank, and depending on what type of lid you have on the pump, you can often use other tools, some can use a 2×4, or a long rod, positioned between the upright tabs, others can use a long 2×4 with a hole cut out of the middle, or other rod or board to get leverage. Or call over a strong neighbor to help. They can really get stuck on there sometimes!

  7. Our Hayward sand filter was installed in May 2016 and now has a small leak in main body of the filter. Pool company says it might have to drill a hole where leak is and put in a screw. I doubt this will help for long. Is this a common concern with these new filters? Our old one lasted for years! $’s!

    • Hi, definitely not a common problem. A screw, sealant and gasket repair can sometimes be successful if the hole is small enough. However, it could be fail dangerously, and Hayward would recommend replacing the tank, which are not usually repairable permanently.

  8. i have hayward sand filter 200lb. when i vacuum i get dirty water back in the return stream almost immediately. what do i do to correct this. filter is 9 yrs. old never had a problem until now.

    Thanks in advance. Mark.

    • Hi Mark, Probably need to change the filter sand. The issue you are having is common with sand filters, but if it was never a problem before, I would just change the sand. a product called Slime Bag is useful for just this problem, it attaches to the wall return fitting, to trap fine dirt, like a second filter.

        • OK< if the problem is occurring After a sand change, and silt did not pass thru before the sand change, I would ask if you are sure you had used the correct amount of sand, and did it say Pool Filter Sand on the bag? If yes and yes, perhaps the old sand was better, or more properly sized and graded. It shouldn't be a cracked lateral, unless you are seeing sand in the pool, in addition to dust/silt. If your sand has developed 'mud-balls' (greasy deposits) or calcified in sections, that could also cause pass-thru problems. If possible, open up the tank and dig your hands into the top 4", should feel like smooth sand, not clumpy, goopy, rocky...

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