Heavy Rains & Swimming Pools
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rainy-poolMother nature has certainly been giving us some strange weather lately. In California, we’ve been pelted by torrential storms, with several inches of rain in a few hours.

Our call center has taken hundreds of calls from distressed homeowners, desperately seeking solutions to heavy rains and flooding, or fixes for pool problems created by heavy rains.

Californians – Take these steps to protect your pool, or clean-up after heavy rains.

Problem #1 – Too much Water in the Pool

Lower the water level in your pool to keep proper skimming action, and to avoid contamination from planters and deck area flooding.

For most pools with a sand or DE filter, the simplest way to lower the water level is to place the multiport valve onto the waste position and roll out the backwash hose. If you have a slide (push-pull) valve, backwash the filter to lower the water level.

lil-giant-water-wizard-cover-pumpSome pools have a hose spigot plumbed after the pump, or on the filter valve, which you can connect a garden hose, to lower water level. Or, you can use a submersible pump, aka pool cover pump, to keep the pool from overflowing.

Finally, there is the siphon method. A pool vacuum hose works best. Prime the hose in the pool, to fill it full of water, and attach a vac head or use a heavy item to hold the hose on the first or second step, the pool ladder, or swim out.

Cap the other end of the hose with your palm and quickly pull the hose away from the pool and a few feet below the level of the pool water. Uncap the hose at ground level and let it flow! Keep an eye on it though!

Problem #2 – Contaminants in the Pool!

From Run-Off: When a backyard pool gets 5 inches of rain in a few hours, flooding can result. If surrounding planters or lawns, or even concrete pool decks overflow into the pool, just a handful of soil or mulch can elevate phosphate levels and create problems with cloudy water and algae.

flooded-pools in Califonria, image by istockphotoIn severe cases, a pool can fill with a thick layer of silty mud, and all sorts of debris. Use leaf rakes to remove the big stuff, followed by a slow vacuum to waste. Follow-up with a good daily pool brush, and near continuous filtering. Clarifiers and flocculents can be used to speed up the process considerably, and may be needed for sand filters.

As the water clears, use a phosphate remover chemical like Phos-Free or Sea-Klear to naturally consume phosphates in your pool. Just pour it into balanced pool water, run the filter for 24 hours, then backwash.


From the Rain:
Rain is pure, distilled water, but as it falls through the air, it picks up dust, pollen, pollutants, oils, even algae spores. If you have tall trees overhanging the pool, rain will wash them clean, right into your pool, adding phosphates and other organic gunk. Add algaecide before a storm to help battle incoming invaders as they enter the pool.

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Rain can also destroy your pool’s water balance. It dilutes the cyanuric acid, and can also soften the water, lowering calcium hardness, and it can affect pH and alkalinity as well. Acid Rain falling through smoggy summer air hits your pool at a very low pH, reducing pool pH and alkalinity. Be sure to test your water with a complete test kit like the K-2005, or use 7-way test strips.

Problem #3 – High Wind, Debris & Projectiles

Before a storm hits: Store all loose toys, furniture and cleaning equipment that could become airborne in high winds. Don’t cover the pool, which can be damaged severely in a heavy storm.

After a storm hits: Clean the pool, lower the water level, check the water balance and the chlorine level, adding sanitizer if needed. If your pool is a funky color, super-chlorinate with some pool shock, and run the filter overnight. It’s best to remove leaves and debris from the pool, and lower the pH to 7.2, before shocking the pool.

Problem #4 – Flooded Pool Equipment

Keep the filter running, however if flood waters threaten to submerge the pool pump, shut off power to the pool on the main home panel. If you can safely remove the pump, store it indoors, if the pump motor becomes submerged, it will likely need to be replaced.

Regular rain falling on your pool equipment will not usually cause any harm, even if it lasts for days on end. If concerned however, you can build a lean-to of some sort over your filter pump. Flooding however is the real problem. Sand bagging your pool equipment could save you from pump replacement, if flood waters rise above the equipment pad.

Problem #5 – Poor Water Drainage

If your pool has a tendency to flood in some areas of the pool deck, and if run-off from heavy rains ends up in the pool – it needs to be fixed. Pool decks should slope 1/4″ for every foot, and storm run-off needs to go somewhere; never in the pool.

Look at the way water moves around the pool, and rework the land to create natural swales, or install drains and drain pipes, or install French drains in gravel around the pool deck, sloped to a downhill, away from the pool location, and also away from the pool equipment.


Don’t let heavy rains and storms make your summer a bummer, follow these tips to avoid these 5 pool problems caused by heavy rains and summer storms!

davy-merino-sm
Davy Merino
InTheSwim Blog Editor

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Comments

Heavy Rains & Swimming Pools — 9 Comments

  1. Hello, I have an above ground fountain with no plumbing holds about 3500gal. Can I simply run the hoses over the top of the fountain. Algae is beginning to build and settle. The wall is 2ft high and the water level sits around 18in. I’m out of options. Everyone says it won’t work but with a strong enough pump won’t it it be able to filter even with the slight incline.

    • Hi Adam, absolutely you could run rigid PVC pipe, or Flex PVC pipe over the wall of the fountain to circulate the water with a pump. Attach a filter to it, and use a chlorine tablet floater and you’re all set! Use 1.5″ PVC, with 90 degree elbows to go up and over the wall, and another elbow on the pipe end, underwater. Place the suction pipe on the floor, but elevate the return pipe to discharge 4-5 inches above the floor, and point the 90 elbow toward the wall, to develop a circular flow pattern around the fountain. You should use a Hayward safety grate on the suction line to reduce entrapment hazard, or place a large strainer basket or strainer box around the suction pipe, for safety and to strain out the leaves and debris. You could also attach a lily pad skimmer or floating skimmer to the suction line. On the return line you can use an eyeball fitting to create more return pressure if needed. You can use a small pump and filter system for aboveground pools, a small sand filter can also be used, with a plug in type pump, like the Hayward VL, Sand Master or Intex Sand filter – http://www.intheswim.com/c/above-ground-filters .

      Now if you wanted to, you could do the same thing as above, except use a large rotary drill or core drill to cut two holes in the lower wall of the fountain, run the pipes through the wall, and then patch with hydraulic cement and plaster to waterproof the pipe on both sides of the wall. then you can run the pipes underground – if that matters! Over the wall will work great, I’ve done it before, no problem.

  2. Hello,

    When draining your pool of excess water where is it supposed to go? My neighbor is dumping chlorinated water into our neighborhood storm drain which goes straight to the Bay.

    • Hi Kelsey, most cities/counties around the Chesapeake Bay have ordinances that state that water must be de-chlorinated before release into the storm drain. in practice however, excess water or filter backwash water will likely have some chlorine in it, at least as much as found in tap water (Fairfax county water often has more chlorine in it than the average pool). The option to draining to the storm drain is to drain it to the woods or a lawn that can absorb the water, without erosion concerns. Most pool water is not full of dangerous chemicals, and is even potable or could be used as drinking water (in an emergency). Chlorine, clarifiers and algaecides are not a large problem for the bay. Phosphates, nitrates, industrial and farming pollutants are the real enemy to aquatic life, pools or pool water (in most cases) is not harmful to the bay.

  3. We have been getting some heavy rains and I have a high alkalinity with the rest of the chemical readings as good. Would it make sense to let the pool overflow for a little while. There was someone who said that the chemical that makes alkalinity high stays at the top of the water. So flooding the pool during a rain would lower the alkalinity. Is this correct?

    • Rain water is typically low alkaline and low pH, so it is possible that heavy rains, or several inches of rain can have some small effect in lowering Alkalinity, but maybe not as much as you need. Alkalinity should be in the 80-120 ppm range, and can be lowered by pooling acid in a calm area of the pool. It also lowers pH, so you often have to then raise the pH, which raises alkalinity, and so on, until you get the alkalinity in range. Or you can lower the water in the pool, and refill with fresh water of a lower known alkalinity level.

  4. It’s interesting that contaminants in the pool can be a big problem for people who get a lot of rain and runoff. It makes sense that this could be problematic because it would make the pumps and cleaning system work harder. It’s something I’ll have to remember to make sure I can get the pool pump repaired before a lot of runoff gets into the pool and makes it dirty.

  5. These are all good things to look for when experiencing a murky pool. In many cases a pool could handle a good bit of rain, and should not overflow, and as you mentioned the pitch of the concrete decking must run water away from the pool coping. All of these items would not be a concern to a pool owner with a quality built pool, but not all pools were created equally either!

  6. Pingback: How Long to Run Pool Pump? | InTheSwim Pool Blog

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