Sand and D.E. pool filters use a valve that allows the pool owner to reverse flow through the filter to flush out the accumulated dirt. A push-pull valve, also called a Slide valve can be used, but the majority of installed filters will use a Multiport valve, mainly for the reason that it provides more settings than just filter or backwash.
Multiport valves do have a few drawbacks however. Some builders prefer slide valves because they allow for higher flow rates than the many ports of the multiport valve. They are also much simpler to repair and require repair less frequently than multiport valves.
Spider Gasket Problems
The most common problem with a multi-port valve has to do with the internal gasket, known as a spider gasket. A spider gasket is what prevents water from leaking from one port into the port next to it. The spring loaded diverter presses down on the ridged spider gasket, sealing up each port and directing the water only where it needs to go.
If your spider gasket becomes worn or torn, or twisted or happens to pops out of the groove in the valve body, this allows water to creep and seep from one port to the next.
You may not notice water bypassing the filter, and returning to the pool without being filtered, but this can happen. On D.E. filters, if you notice D.E. powder coming back into the pool when you add it after backwashing, this can be one of the causes, aside from internal filter problems like torn grids, or a missing air bleeder or standpipe o-ring.
The more common problem is that you will notice water coming out of the backwash hose, even after you stop backwashing. Sometimes, just shutting off the pump and slightly repositioning the valve will create a better seal or allow any grit or debris between the diffuser and the gasket to be flushed out. If it continues, it’s time to open up the valve and inspect the innards of your multiport valve, specifically the spider gasket.
To inspect your spider gasket, remove the bolts surrounding the lid and by lifting on the handle, pull the entire ‘key assembly’ from the valve body. You may need some slight prying with a flathead screwdriver to help in removal.
The spider gasket should be firmly attached (glued) into all of the grooves in between the ports. It should not appear twisted or overly worn or torn. Check to see that your gasket is not enlarged or looks as though the rubber has been chemically altered. If so, you should find the source of this, which could be a chlorinator backing up, or it can be caused by pouring chlorine or pH decreaser in through the skimmer, which is a big no-no.
On some Pac-Fab and Jacuzzi multiport valves, the gasket is not below the diffuser, or rotor, but is molded into the rotor itself. This is a superior design, and will likely give the owner fewer problems.
If it looks like you need a new gasket, make notes of any make, model and part numbers listed on the valve. Keep in mind that you may see a part number on the valve label, which may be just that, the part number for the valve label or decal, and not an item number for the valve itself. Nevertheless, this clue can be used as a means to identify the valve that you have.
There are dozens of different spider gaskets made, for dozens of valve models, visit our valve parts department to assist you in finding your correct valve.
How to Replace a Spider Gasket
- Use a small, sharp screwdriver to remove old gasket and bits left behind in the groove.
- Dry the groove out with paper towels or a leaf blower or hair dryer.
- Dry fit the new gasket to make sure the size is correct.
- Place dabs of silicone or superglue in each groove. Not much is needed.
- Press new Spider Gasket in place, with flat side down, ridged side up.
Leaking Multiport Lid
In the center of the lid is a hole that the stem of the diffuser sticks up through to connect to the handle. There are two small o-rings that seal up the stem. Occasionally these may leak. If the leak is minor, it may not be worth the time to fix it, but if it bothers you, go through the steps above to identify your valve and order these o-rings, or you can also look for the Go-Kit for your multiport, which contains all of the gaskets, washers and o-rings for a particular multiport valve.
Broken Valve Spring
Under the lid of your valve, a spring is used to provide the tension needed to press the rotor into the spider gasket, and also to facilitate the rotation between one setting and another. When you press down on the valve handle to change positions of the valve, you are compressing the spring.
If the valve spring becomes broken, which can happen from chemical corrosion, the handle will be floppy (no tension) and you may experience a problem of water (and debris) making it’s way into different ports or coming out of the backwash port. You may also see DE powder coming into the pool, as described above, or bits of debris coming back into the pool while vacuuming or cleaning the skimmer.
Leaking Sightglass
The sight lass is the little clear bottle or view glass that allows you to see when the backwash water becomes clear, so you know when to stop backwashing. If your sight glass is leaking during backwashing, it may be missing the small gasket that prevents this, or you may notice a small crack. Is it worth repairing if it only leaks during backwashing? Maybe not, but you can decide this for yourself.
Taking care of your Multiport Valve
- No lubrication is necessary, except on the lid o-ring, after opening the valve for service.
- Always shut the pump off before turning the multiport valve.
- Drain the valve completely for winterization.
- Move the valve handle gently and purposefully. Not herky-jerky.
One more thing, if you are faced with major valve problems, it may be cheaper and faster to replace the entire valve, or what’s called the ‘Key Assembly’, which is everything from the rotor to the handle. Drop it in, tighten it down and you’re done. If you need any assistance with your valve, send me an email, or call our pool valve experts in our call center.
Hey good information.
Question — does it make sense to replace the whole multiport if the top and spider gasket need replacing and the bottom seems fine — or is there potentially something wrong in the bottom that I can’t see?
Thanks.
Tim
Hi good question, no sense in replacing the entire valve, if you can save a few bucks just replacing the ‘Key Assembly’, or the handle/cover/rotor/gasket (Hayward). For Pentair style valves with the gasket in the grooves of the valve body, you could just replace the spider gasket, sure.
I just replaced the top half of my Pentair Multi-Port valve and spider gasket. However, when I rotate the handle on the multi-port valve, it does not “seat” into any position. I’m assuming the handle’s orientation was off when I bolted it back on. However, it appeared to be in the same position as my old one when I removed it. What did I do wrong? It looks like some water is being pumped through the returns in the pool and other water is now going out of my waste/backwash line.
Hi Chad, it is possible to rotate the lid (with some effort), so that rotor/diverter is no longer in the right orientation. All I can suggest is to pull up a chair and spend some time looking at the ports in the valve body and the position of the rotor, to understand how the water flows in the filter position (top to bottom thru the sand), so that you turn the lid to the right orientation. Sounds like it is off by just 1/2″ or so, so turn it so that when the handle is in the Filter position, the backwash EXIT port is completely closed and the entrance port INTO the filter is completely open, as well as the entrance port FROM the pump.
Replaced lid diverter valve as pool was leaking from backwash port indicating new spider gasket needed. Got entire valve so it’d be foolproof. Can’t get new diverter valve on correctly. Did not notice how old one came off.
New one on, still leaking from backwash but will not backwash or rinse. Pump running very hot.
HOW do we get diverter valve on correctly?
Hi Mary Anne, if you replaced the diverter only, not the entire lid/diverter/handle assembly, it can be tricky to orient the diverter and the lid. Since no water is flowing, it must not be aligned with the proper ports. I can’t explain exactly how it orients, but if you look closely and see how the water flows into the valve, and into the filter, you should get it correct. I can tell you this, when the diverter is correctly positioned, the holes thru the stem, for the handle pin, can only be two positions. Meaning, when the handle is in the filter position, in order to line up the holes on the diverter stem and the handle, it can only fit one of two ways, either correct, or 180 degrees wrong. If it is backwards, when the handle is in the Filter position, the valve will be backwashing the filter. Hope that helps.
The sticker on my multiport valve is hard to read and can not tell the model number. is there another way to tell so I can purchase the spider gasket?
You can tell by knowing what filter model you have, as there is only one correct valve for each filter tank. You may also find stamped numbers on other parts of the valve, which can be cross referenced to find the whole valve.
I try to find a stamp number, however i have not find it. The sand filter it is Pentair TR-60.
The multiport valve is valve number 261173 for 1.5″ valve (likely the one you have), or 261055 for the 2″ valve.
Dave,
At a loss here. Getting a lot of DE back in the pool. Had local pool company inspect grid assembly on my FNS plus filter all is good. Grids,manifold,breather, standpipe O ring, standpipe itself. Two years back replaced the spider gasket still looks good. Replaced the spring in the valve last year. Not sure what is going on. I measured the distance from the rotor surface to the bottom of the valve assembly cap. Measured 3 3/16. Same distance for the top of the valve surface to the spider gasket 3 3/16. Should the expanded assembly be a bit longer to allow more pressure on the gasket? I’m open to any suggestions. Should I bite the bullet and buy just the valve assembly of the complete valve? Very frustrated with this pool right now. Thanks so much in advance for your insight.
Tim, don’t be too frustrated, enjoy the pool, after all it’s just a little DE on the floor 🙂 I’m still going to say that it is probably (usually) a problem inside the filter tank and not inside the MP valve. If the spider gasket was twisted or damaged, or out of the groove, or if the spring was broken with a floppy handle… but otherwise prolly not the valve. DIY filter grid assy inspection: (ucandoit!), Backwash filter well, then shut off pump, open air bleeder, remove clamp band, pull off top lid, hose off filter system ermoving any chunks of DE, lift up to remove partially clean grid assy, place on side in suitable area and clean with hose deeply, inside and out while inspecting grids. Is assembly loose? Are grids pushed ALL the way into the manifold? Any tears in fabric, or loose stitching (top or bottom)? Cracks in manifold, air bleeder and air sock? Standpipe o-ring? Cracks in standpipe, or loose standpipe bulkhead.
Dave the filter is 100%. No doubt. Even had the local shop look at it. I’m just wondering if the rotor was placed a bit askew when it was put back together with the new spring. Which is allowing the de to skip the filter and just get redirected to the pool. I ordered a new gasket and valve top assembly today in hopes of clearing up this issue
Tim, yes it can happen on some valves, it is possible to reassemble a top/rotor so that the rotor is not oriented correctly with the ports, but is 180 degrees. The handle and handle pin will prevent being off just a little bit, but it could be completely opposite. The way to determine is to stare at both for ten minutes, looking closely and you should be able to tell if it is backwards or askew, by tracing how the water flows when in place and assembled.
I have an old Multiport Stay-rite Filter Valve.
Problem is no matter what position it is in (filter, backwash,closed etc.) water is not going into filter b ut coming out backwash valve. water is not circulating.
I have replaced gasket ,0-rings,washersetc.
and also washed DE filter completely. same problem.As soon as I turn on the pump
( new)water goes right out backwash valve.
Ursula, that sounds like it may be the either the spider gasket (are you gluing it into the grooves?), or the spring under the lid may be broken. If the pressure is very high in the filter gauge, there could be some other issue, an obstruction inside the filter, or return line perhaps, but usually it will be the spider gasket.
I can’t figure this one out. When I set to backwash, no water moves through my multi port, EXCEPT when I have the waste valve open, and then I get normal flow.
Multiport valve operates completely normally otherwise. Everything else operates on normal psi, except on backwash with closed waste valve, that causes psi to spike.
I thought it was dirty sand, which was hard to believe since I replaced this past offseason. So today, dumped it, new sand, reassembled…same issue.
Any insight would be awesome, I’m stumped!
Hi Michael, so do you have a valve on the waste line? Sometimes, lazy pool guys (or pool owners) will install a valve on the waste line, to stop it from leaking, instead of replacing the spider gasket. If that is true, then open the valve before backwashing and close it afterwards. Even better, open up the multiport valve and replace the spider gasket. If more questions, email me at swimmers at intheswim.com
I just bought a house with an I ground pool with a Pentair Sand Dollar SD80. In waste, rinse or backwash, water sprays from the sight glass. Do I need to replace the sight glass? If so, how do I do that?
Hi Jaime, it might just be loose? Give it a turn to tighten. There may be a gasket in there that is missing. If it still drips, no worries, it’s only during backwashing, so it should not cause a problem.
I a Pentair Quad DE 60 filter and have lived in this house for 7 years now . This year I’m having trouble w the water being cloudy despite perfect chemistry, cleaned cartridges and new DE, frequent backwashes and DE replacement. I’m wondering if I have a DE leak somewhere in the system. And I happened to notice that my multi port valve is a SM10-3 SAND (USE ON SAND FILTER ONLY!) I guess the previous owner forgot to change it to a DE compatible multi port valve when they changed to DE filter? … but it seems like it’s been working fine for past 6-7 years. I guess my question is, can this mismatch cause a DE leak, and perhaps a delayed one like I’m getting now? Should I replace it w the correct multi port regarhdless? I’m going to go ahead and replace my DE cartridges since they are 7+ years old and could be a cause of water cloudiness if they’re not running efficiently or have a hidden leak causing DE to escape. Thanks for any help/advice
Hi Mike, for other DE filters that would be a problem, but for the Quad DE filter, they do use the same valve as the sand filters. Leaking DE can come from many areas, either torn grids, cracked manifolds, missing manifold air bleeder strainer or sock, loose assembly from loose thru-bolts, or from a missing standpipe o-ring. Or a bad spider gasket in the SM10-3 valve.
I have a pentair sand dollar SD60. We saw water leaking from the backwash valve so we bought a new spider gasket. When we opening the top today the inside of the faker assembly was cracked, so we ordered a whole new Multiport valve system. How do we go about installing this now that the pool is full? Do we drain the whole filter???
Hi katie, to replace the entire valve, you just have to use a hacksaw to cut the pipes coming in and out of the valve. Leave 2″ of PVC pipe attached to the fitting that is threaded into the valve. When the old valve is removed, unscrew the pipe fittings on the in/out ports, the pipes you just cut. Remove the old Teflon tape and wrap the threads again with new Teflon tape, in a CW direction, 3-4 times, and then screw the pipes into the new valve ports labeled PUMP and RETURN. Then use slipxslip couplings or unions, and with PVC glue, connect the pipes that you cut before, and then clamp the new valve to the filter tank securely. If you use unions, you won’t have to cut the pipe next time, for sand inspection, sand change or other future service needs.
Can the multi port valve prevent the pump from priming? I just put in a new one and now can’t get the pump to prime. I can fill the pump to the top with water and when the pump starts it looks like air is getting sucked from the valve side
Try starting the pump or priming the pump on Waste or Recirculate, which are both filter bypass settings. Sometimes it’s easier to prime a pump on these valve settings, and then once caught, the you can open the air bleeder and (turn pump off first) switch the multiport valve back to Filter position.
I have a Pooline sand filter for my above ground pool. I noticed today that when the filter was running the psi for up around 57 psi. When I turned the system off the psi only went down to 45 psi with the system totally off. I unscrewed the pressure gauge from the filter and when I did that the reading still read 45 psi with the unit not attached. Does the mean the pressure gauge is malfunctioning? The filter and pump is still filtering beautifully and it seems normal even through it’s reading a 57 psi when turned on.
Ryan, yes the pressure gauge is defective. It might have a bent dial, or an internal problem. Anyway, they are only $10 to replace, so get a new one, and use Teflon tape, and thread it back in, being careful not to over tighten.
i have a hayward multi port valve that was leaking to waste even when it was on filter so i changed the spider gasket and it stop the flow going to waste all good there but i have noticed now the de media when i add it it comes out of the returns. the multi port valve is working fine at all settings just dont know why de is coming out of the returns it wasnt till i changed the spider and spring thanks
So, you replaced the spring too, under the handle? What may be happening is that the rotor may have been reinstalled in a backwards orientation, or off by one click or something. This would also affect filter pressure and backwash pressure, and may not be the issue. The issue could be a separate one inside the filter, a cracked manifold, missing air relief strainer, missing standpipe o-rings, holes in the grids, or a loose grid assembly, not fully tightened up.
We just replaced the entire multi port assembly on our pentair sand dollar filter and the handle is loose. Also the pool is losing water. Should that handle be loose?? And could that be causing our pool to lose water? We also can’t figure out where the water leaking out or where it is going. This problem just started last week after pumping water out to waste after a big rain. Thanks!
Hi Jackie, a loose or floppy handle, can indicate that the spring is broken, under the lid. The spring is what gives it the tension when you push down on the handle to turn it. The spring keeps the rotor (aka diverter or footpad), firmly onto the bottom of the valve body, so that water goes where it’s supposed to go, and not into other (multiple) ports. Check your backwash hose for water leaving the pool, thru the waste port. If that is found, then I would wonder why a brand new valve suddenly has a broken spring, or does it? Let’s disassemble the valve, by removing all screws and lifting out the handle/cover assembly to inspect inside, and see what’s going on.
How would i replace that spring?
Spring replacement on a multiport valve involves removing the pin that holds the handle on, then lifting the cover off of the diverter stem, to expose the spring.
I have the 261152 multiport
yes, that is the 2″ version, same orientation as the 261177
do I need to buy a new multiport valve if when replacing it I stripped a couple screws. So its not completely sealed. Would that cause any problems of lets say sand to filter back into my pool?
Hi Larae, no loss of sand, just leaking around the valve cover. If the screws are not bolts/nuts, like on most valve covers, you can use a C-clamp to replace the screw. With a tap & die set, you could cut new screw threads to repair the stripped threads.
It is the correct gasket. It fits snug and I have used silicone to glue it down. Thats a good idea on the slurry directly in the tank. I will try that. Through this process I have not added any DE over the last week or so as I’ve replaced parts. I’m not sure where its coming from at this point. Built up in the lines? Just recirculating through the main and skimmer? Let the pump run for 5 hours the other day and at the end the water coming through the floor jets was still cloudy.
Hi Frank, check that the pipe from the pump connected to the port labeled PUMP and the pipe to the pool connected to RETURN? Another reach is to ask if you ARE shutting off the pump when you turn the MPV handle? Another question, you say you recently replaced grids, top manifold, air bleeder and standpipe o ring. Were any of these parts possibly wrong, meant for a different filter? And is the assembly tightly reassembled, so that the DE grids push tightly up into the manifold, so there is no gap at the top? And is the pump the same as always, not overpowered, like one of them new 2.7 HP VS pumps?
Did the slurry. Pool is covered in DE. I have a whisperflow pump. The top port of the filter where multiport attaches is labeled “outlet” and bottom port is labeled “inlet”. There are 2 threaded nipples on the right side of the multiport. The higher to the left (which looks like the flow of the water goes to the bottom port of the filer inlet) is plumbed to/from the heater. The lower right port of the multiport (which looks like flow of water is to outlet) is plumbed to the top of the pump. The DE grids all fit nice and snug into the manifold (way better than the old grids). All parts were bought at the same local supply distributor (have to have an account, not like a leslies type place). and he went through all the invoices to check if that could have happened after telling him my problems. All parts were correct. The pump seems to be running just as it had the last couple years.
Frank, if your multiport is the Pentair 261177 DE valve, the port on the top-front should be labeled PUMP, and be connected to the pipe from your pump. The lower pipe should be stamped RETURN. We’ve checked everything that I can think of – maybe just review all these ideas, and go over each one again, to see if something occurs for you. Good Luck, and when you figure it out, let us know! Davy
I have a pentair fns plus de filter and pentair multiport valve. I put a new one in due to it having a crack. Worked great. Backwashed the pool. Went to put in DE and it immediately came back into the pool. Replaced spider gasket. Still happens. Everytime I rotate multiport valve trying to clear all this DE the spider gasket rolls over and I get water out of my backwash tube when its on filter. Clean out old one, dry it off, silicone new one in, bolt the top down and wait until the next day to run the system. I’ve gone through 3 spider gaskets now in a week.
Hi Frank, you may have inadvertantly installed a multiport valve meant for sand filters. The valves used with FNS Plus are 261049, 261142, 261152, 261177, or the slide valve 263064. The Pentair sand filter valves are 261049, 261050, 261055. The bulkhead ports (in/out) are in-top, out-bottom, but for de filters, it is in-bottom, out-top.
Its a 261152 that I installed. Its strange. Worked as it should until the first backwash and then all these issues since then.
Ah, okay then – what I now suspect is that the filter grid assembly has become dis-assembly, because the wing nuts came off the thru bolts. Or, the standpipe o-ring is missing. Or, there is a crack in the top manifold. Or, the manifold is missing the air relief strainer.
Ready for the next curve ball? Over the last 2 weeks I’ve replaced all grids, top manifold, air bleeder and standpipe o ring. Only thing I havent replaced is the actual standpipe but I see no cracks
OK,backing up to the spider gasket, is it the right one, does it fit snug? And then, I would glue it in place with dabs of Superglue or silicone, to keep it from rolling. To rule out the valve as a suspect, you could clean the filter, and then pour in a slurry of DE/water, directly into the tank, then seal up the tank, and start the pump, and see if it comes back into the pool.
My multi port valve was leaking. Replaced the O ring. Now when I put the multi port valve back on the sand filter it doesn’t go down far enough to put the collar claps back on.
Hi Krista, you gotta give it a little nudge, put your weight into it, pressing on both sides of the flange, and it will come down over the o-ring. Large pliers can also be used. Lube the o-ring with pool lube, if you have not already, that will help make it easier.
My diffuser broke off of my Hayward VariFlo XL valve while trying to change sand. Can my filter still be used without the diffuser screwed to the valve?
Hi Joe, it’s best to have the diffuser in place, to ‘diffuse’ the water as it enters the tank, spreading it over the sand bed. Superglue is your friend in this situation, just peg it back on there.
I need the multi valve diffuser
Hi Chris, the diffuser that’s on the bottom of a top-mounted valve? Those are not sold as a separate part usually, but part of the valve housing. Can it be repaired with some strong glue, or is it too mangled? You will find valve housings in our valve partsvalve parts dept. It may possible be cheaper to buy the entire valve, see our multiport page.
My backwash has no pressureFilter works fine and vacuum is good.. Nu spider gasket is gone. Can that cause no pressure to backwasj
Brian, if your spider gasket is gone (missing?) that could cause a problem with backwashing, and also filtering, as much water is being bypassed, and returning to the pool unfiltered.