So your pool filter is having problems, and you’re seeking answers. Well, good news – you’re in the right place! Pool filter trouble can take on many forms, and not all issues with filtration are filter problems. Clogged or closed pool skimmers, pumps, or valves can all cause pool filter problems. Before you get too far into troubleshooting your pool filter, check for anything that could be obstructing water flow to or from the filter. Here’s a list of common pool filter problems, and the different solutions that can fix it.
Pool Filter Has No Pressure
When the pump is off, or when the valve is set to recirculate or drain to waste, the filter pressure should be zero. If the filter pressure gauge reads zero or close to zero with the pump running, and the valve is in filter or backwash mode, something is wrong. Give the gauge face a flick with your fingernail to see if it pops up. Inspect the gauge dial or face for warping, which can prevent the dial from moving.
If you are certain that water is moving through the filter at a normal rate, either the gauge has failed, or there may be a clog within the air bleeder assembly that the gauge screws into. To check, shut the pump off and remove the pressure gauge with pliers or a small wrench. Run a stick or small screwdriver down into the hole to clear out any clogs or debris. This may be blocking the pressure gauge or air relief assembly. Pool filter gauges are inexpensive instruments that will fail in time. It never hurts to keep a spare gauge on hand.
If the water is not moving through the filter at a normal rate, there is most likely a clog or obstruction before the pool filter. It could be a clogged pump basket, impeller, pipe, or skimmer basket. It could also be a closed or broken valve before the pump. In some cases, the pump may have an air leak and is drawing in more air than water. This can reduce filter pressure (and filtration ability).
Pool Filter Has Too Much Pressure
If your filter pressure is higher than normal, this usually indicates a dirty pool filter. We generally recommend backwashing your filter (or cleaning your cartridges) when the pressure rises 8-10 PSI above the clean start-up pressure. The manufacturer’s recommendation may be slightly different, depending on which pool filter you have.
If your pressure is much higher than that, there may be foreign materials in the filter (paper products, plastics, mulch, oils) that are really clogging it up. There could also be a closed return valve or bypass valve after the filter. Either scenario will cause the pressure to rise to very high levels. The filter or the filter valve (multiport or slide) may have broken internal parts which have lodged themselves inside of a pipe or fitting. Check the return side valves or heater bypass to be sure they are open. Return pipes or valves after the filter don’t normally clog with debris. But broken filter or valve parts could restrict the water flow after the filter, thus raising the filter pressure.
Very high filter pressure can be dangerous! Filter lids of clamshell type filters have been known to blow off when the clamp band fails under high pressure. Many pool filters operate in the range of 8-15 PSI, though they can sometimes range from 3-30 PSI. If your filter pressure has jumped unexpectedly to a higher than normal reading, or if the clean/starting pressure is higher than manufacturer recommendations, you may have internal filter problems or filter valve problems. Be sure that all pipes and valves are open after the filter, and if you see the pressure spike to 40 PSI or higher, shut off the pump immediately.
Pool Filter Pressure Rises Too Slowly
Most pool filters will run for several weeks before the pressure rises 5-8 PSI higher on the pressure gauge. Very large filters can even take months when paired with smaller pools. However, some filters can have problems where pool water bypasses the filter and returns to the pool unfiltered. This can cause a pool filter pressure to rise slowly, and it can take weeks to clean up adverse water conditions. In D.E. and sand filters, problems with the filter valve can cause water to bypass the filter. Internal problems (broken, missing, or misaligned filter parts) inside a filter tank can cause water bypass on all pool filter types. In addition, an oversized pool pump can push the dirt right through a filter.
Pool Filter Pressure Rises Too Rapidly
If your filter pressure rises rapidly within hours or days after backwashing, the filter media (sand, cartridge, or D.E. grids) may need attention. If your media is clogged with oils or minerals, it will require deep cleaning with a pool filter cleaner cleaner made for your filter type. In some cases, you may even need to replace it with new filter media.
D.E. filters will also see a rapid pressure increase when an insufficient amount of D.E. powder is used. The same is true if you don’t open up the filter and thoroughly clean the D.E. grids at least once per year.
During very poor water conditions, having to backwash daily or even more often can be considered normal. But with clean and clear water, a properly sized and well operating pool filter should ideally have a filter run of 3-6 weeks between cleanings.
Pool Filter is Leaking Water Around Clamp
As mentioned above, clamshell type pressurized pool filters can be dangerous when the pressure gets to be too high. This is a common filter tank design for cartridge and D.E. pool filters, where there are two halves and a center clamp to hold the two pieces together. If the clamp band is leaking water, it is not making a safe seal, and you’re at an increased risk for pressurized mishaps.
Shut off the pump and drain the filter tank by opening the air bleeder. Remove the filter clamp band and the filter o-ring, a.k.a. the belly band o-ring. Clean the o-ring with water and a rag to remove any dirt and debris. Also clean the rim of the bottom tank where the o-ring sits. Inspect the o-ring for damage. If the o-ring is no longer round, but triangular in cross section, or if it is cracked or has dry rot, replace it.
Lubricate the filter o-ring with Teflon pool lube, and reinstall the top half of the filter tank. Secure the clamp band around both tank halves and tighten down the nut all the way, until the springs are touching (new style clamps) or the two ends of the clamp are within 1/4″ of each other (older clamps). Tapping the clamp band lightly with a heavy wrench or mallet around the tank while tightening improves the seal.
In rare cases a tank may warp, preventing a good seal with the clamp band. In this case, contact your dealer or the filter manufacturer for possible warranty coverage or replacement part numbers.
Pool Filter is Blowing Dirt Back Into the Pool
After backwashing, it is normal for a small amount of dust to blow into the pool. Using the multiport valve Rinse setting for 20 seconds will fix that problem. For sand filters, a small amount of fine, silty dirt may pass through the filter all the time and be considered normal. Using a filter cleaner or replacing the filter sand can help, in addition to using a clarifier. Just be sure that it’s not sand that is coming into the pool. Hit it with a brush, and if it poofs up into the water it is dust; if it just rolls around, it may be filter sand escaping through a broken filter lateral.
D.E. filters can lose D.E. powder into the pool (which looks like sandy dust) through small tears in the fabric, a loose filter grid assembly, cracks in the manifold, or from a missing air bleeder screen or standpipe o-ring. Cartridge filters also need to be installed properly into the tank to keep water from bypassing the cartridge and flowing around it. Again, there could be holes in the cartridge fabric. Water bypass can also be caused by an oversized pool pump, improper use of cleaning chemicals, or from aggressive cleaning with a pressure washer.
Another common issues is caused by the pool filter valve on sand or D.E. filters. If your filter valve is in need of repair or replacement, it could be bypassing some portion of the water back to the pool unfiltered.
Pool Filter is Leaking Out of the Backwash Line
This is a valve problem, and not a filter problem. In a multiport valve, the spider gasket and rotor make a seal together to prevent water from going to the backwash port when the setting is anything other than Backwash. If there is a trickle or stream of water constantly draining out of the backwash line, open up the multiport valve and inspect the gasket. You may find that it’s twisted, deformed, cracked, or broken. If the valve handle is floppy and has little tension, you may also need to replace the spring under the handle.
Pool Filter is Not Clearing the Pool Water
Why is the pool still cloudy? It could be many things, but let’s start with your water balance and sanitation levels. As we have preached on this blog for many years, for clean and clear pool water, you need the perfect ratio of filtration, sanitation, circulation, and good water balance..
If your sanitation, circulation, and water balance are spot on, it’s time to look closely at the pool filter. Is the pump running long enough each day for your filter to keep up? Are the pump and filter sized properly for the pool and for each other? Is there a chance that water is bypassing the filter and returning to the pool unfiltered?
If your pool filter is a bit undersized, or if the filter media is tired, try using a clarifier to help coagulate suspended particles. You can also use a flocculant to settle suspended particles to the floor and vacuum to waste. In many cases where it takes weeks to clean up poor water conditions, replacing the filter media (sand, cartridges, D.E. grids, or D.E. powder) can help tremendously.
Pool Filter is Making Loud Noises
This one’s a bit of a trick question. Normally if you notice a noise on the equipment pad, the pool pump is to blame. While in operation, a pool filter is actually quiet. Loud pool pumps are normally caused by cavitation (starved for water) or by bad internal motor bearings. A pool pump with an air leak can put lots of air into the filter. This can sometimes be a little noisy as it gets pushed through the pool filter. If you have a constant stream of air bubbles in the pool, or if you can see bubbles through the clear pump lid, look for and patch any suction leaks (before the pump) with sealant.
Pool Filter Won’t Turn On
Another trick question! The pool filter is not electric, and only the pump turns on. If the pump won’t turn on, it could be a whole range of things. Look for this answer in our Pool Pump Troubleshooting Guide.
Hello Davy, Pressure gauge shoots above amber and then pops up lid of the filter. I have fixed it and when I switched to filter, the filter gauge rises fast and I turn off, the moment it increases to Amber . Please help.
Tega, this could be very dangerous of course. The reason the pressure is rising too fast likely has to do with your filter media (sand, cartridge or grids) being clogged up. Replace the media with new, and hopefully that will fix it. Another cause could be if you installed a pump recently that is much too large for the filter.
This weekend I decided to put new sand in my filter.
After I changed the Sand, my filter and bypass setting does not work.
Backwash, rinse, waste works.
Could I have damaged the laterals when adding the sand with no water?
Cornel, likely you have used “Bad Sand”, improperly graded sand from a company that has a problem in quality control. Switch brands and try again, sorry. Not a lateral problem.
Hi Davy,
So I’m having issues with pump pressure to the point where we end up losing prime in our pump. We have checked for leaks and even replaced some valves but still have the same problem. When we run the pump in re-circulation there are zero issues. What could be the cause? How can I test my valve to make sure its working properly?
Thank you!
Hi Jack, I would guess that there is an obstruction in the filter, likely bad filter sand, or bad DE powder (seems to be a thing, in 2020), Especially if you have high pressure and low flow, and it works on recirculate… sounds like filter media, yeah.
Hi Davey
My pool filter builds up pressure when I run water through it.
the pressure builds up to the extent that water leaks by the gasket.
when I bypass the filter it runs ok. I have emptied and changed the sand already but it still does the same thing.
can it be the filter tubes in the inside of the filter drum.
Ronald
Hi, it possibly could be the laterals in the bottom of the tank. Some sand grains of a small size can clog them up. If you inspect, I would also suggest changing the sand again, using a different brand. There has been a run of improperly graded sand this year (ah, 2020!)
Hey! Any advice, the weir intake is not sucktioning, the output PSI is fine and both sand filter and filter at the pump has correct PSI, the pool was re-done in the last 12 months and has been working fine. And suggestion on what could cause the problem between the intake weir and the pump?
Hello, so the skimmer has no suction? It could be a clogged pipe, and a Drain King is usually the fix, pressurizing the line from the pump, towards the skimmer. Or it could be a closed skimmer valve. Or the water level may be too high, and it is sucking water, just does not appear to be.
I have a sand filter set up and my filter basket seems to not hold water in it when the filter is running.
Hi Patti, if the pressure is lower than normal, check the impeller for clogging. If nearly normal, check for an air leak. Most common air leaks are on a loose pump lid, or a loose pipe threaded into the front of the pump, or a leaky skimmer or main drain valve. When you shut the pump off, if you see any water spray back, or any dripping, that is a likely area for an air leak, when the pump is running. More info here: https://blog.intheswim.com/air-in-pool-pump-or-bubbles-in-the-pool/
I have no flow at all through the muti port valve. Can you give me any ideas as to what I can do?
Hi Raymond, if the water flows thru on Waste or Recirculate (two filter bypass settings), then the problem is not in the valve, but in the filter, perhaps bad sand. If water won’t flow thru on waste or recirc, it may be a pump problem, like an air leak or clogged impeller.
Hi! I have an Intex sand filter pump that is only about 3 months old. After weeks of torrential downpours in our area, the pool was a mess. I did, unfortunately, overdose on the algaecide. Now that that problem is solved, the pump is having low flow, but just on the return. I have backwashed probably every day for 2 weeks now. The flow for backwash and rinse is perfect, full power. But when I return to filter mode, it’s great for about 3 seconds, then the psi jumps up to about 12, normally around 6, and return flow decreases dramatically. I’m totally at a loss. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Hi Jennifer, it could be that something is stuck in the hoses, between the filter outlet and the pool wall return, or there could be something stuck inside the filter too. If you have recirculate position, how does that do? Recirc is a filter bypass setting, and if pressure does not jump-up in the same way, the issue is inside the tank or filter valve. Some obstruction, a piece of plastic, a plastic baggy, or could be bad sand. There has been some of that this year. And the fact that you need to backwash so often… might be bad sand, graded improperly.
I have a Triton II sand filter and IntelliFlo variable speed pump. The pump won’t prime and there is no water flowing through unless I have the main drain completely closed off and the slimmer line open while the filter is on. The pump will error out. Once the main drain is slightly open the filter loses all pressure and the pump errors out. Not sure if there is a clog but I can’t seem to locate the issue. I’ve checked the pump impeller and checked the pump and skimmer baskets for clogs. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
James, sounds like an air leak in the main drain pipe, or the valve. Not a filter problem, not a pump problem, but an air leak. Check out our other posts about locating an air leak – in this case it will at the valve or just before the valve, or could possibly be a cracked pipe, usually just underground a foot or so, near the 90 fitting.
Hi my name is Dave I have a pentair nautilus FNS de filter with a 1-5 hp pump. I seem to loose pressure for the floor heads. I backwash and everything is ok for half hour then loose pressure again. I turned the valve to recirculate and it seems to work ok
Hi Dave, pull out the grids and soak in a DE Filter Chemical solution, or soak in a 10% muriatic acid solution 1-gal acid per 10 gals water, rinse and then soak in a 2 cup per 10-gal, TSP solution. You can soak half for an hour then flip over and soak the other half of the grid assy. Hose well and then recharge with DE powder. If it happens agin, switch to a new brand of DE powder.
hi
i have recently installed a air pump heater works fine
this week i put new sand in the filter backwashed it
now the heater doesnt seem to be on for long ?????? is the sand to compact should i backwash it again
i assume the heater flow switch is noticing slower flow so not kicking the heater on???
what do you think please
Hi, yes backwash again. Perhaps using a Filter Sand Cleaner chemical may help. Do you notice that the water flow seems slower? Try placing the filter valve on the Recirculate position, and see if the heater stays on. If so, then yes the sand may be causing the issue. You did not put more sand than required amount? If so, try to remove the correct amount. Some pressure switches are adjustable, with a small screw on the face of the disk, tighten to reduce the pressure required.
Hi I have a Hydo Mite HM 100 duel filter. I have taken these out and cleaned them many times, however, this time I can not pull out the bottom filter. The top comes off easy, but the lower…its like its glued. It rocks back and forth and i keep pulling on it, but it wont pull up and out. Any ideas?? Thank you.
Hi James, might be calcium scale or some other substance keeping it stuck in there. You could try a mild acid solution, like 10% with dry acid or liquid acid + water. Pour into the top of the filter and around the base. Let it soak for a few minutes, then rinse and try again? Or just clean the filter inside the tank? Assuming you have a drain plug.
I have a Hayward s180t sand filter. I replaced the sand, the laterals, the multi port. Now I cant get it to backwash. I was having this issue before i replaced the multi-port. It will filter, and has a good flow, but it willnot backwash or rinse. I’ve tried everything. I’ve tightened everything and replaced everything. If there is air coming in , I cant find it. I’m about to loose it, i’m a nervous wreck over this because on top of everything, the new multi-port looks like it has water standing in the top and its brand new. I’m in need of some serious help on this one.
I would try a different brand of filter sand. I know, not an easy task, but there have been many complaints of this year, which points to sand that has been mislabeled or misgraded, or is not able to filter, or backwash or both.
My hayward sand filter works in all positions except filter. I have no clogs. Put in new sand, backwashed and rinsed, then put back in filter, nothing. Any ideas
Hi Dale, that is unusual, to test the pipes, place the valve in the Recirculate position, and see if it flows normally back to the pool. If it does, then I would want to say maybe ‘bad sand’?
Good morning, we have a Pentair sand filter. The pool contractor came out a month again, replaced the capacitor, replaced the pressure gauges. Now I cant get lid off the tank, he put a lubricant on the lid, now it’s so tight we can’t loosen it. I was in the process of back washing when the capacitor started blowing white smoke so I turned it off. I replaced capacitor but I’m afraid to turn on because I don’t want to blow it out. I’m not sure if there is enough water in our tank. Also the capacitor I bought is the same but it’s longer is that ok. It’s a tight squeeze in the housing. Any suggestions? Thank you
Hi Lynn, I’m not sure why you want to open the tank, to check the water level, not sure why that is necessary, but you can open the air bleeder on top of the tank, then close it when it sprays water. The capacitor should be ok if the same MFD numbers are printed on it. Make sure not to pinch any wires when closing the motor cover.
My psi is at 40 with the filter off. The filter was adnormally loud and I noticed the psi was high but even with the filter off it still is at 40psi?
Hi Angie, the gauge is probably stuck if it does not return to zero when the pump turns off. The pump you have may be too large for the pool, or there is restriction on the inlet/outside of the pump, such as closed valves, dirty filter, bad sand, clogged pipes… 40 psi is very high, and the loud pump is called ‘cavitation’, things are not right. There is an obstruction, or it is too big
Hello, I purchased a year old Coleman 22′ x 53″ above ground power steel pool, which, with its parts, I believe is a Bestway product. That company does not allow anyone to speak with it on the phone. I have everything set up as it should be, according to the manuals I found online. The pool came with the little but mighty Flowclear 2500 gph pump/filter unit.
The filter chamber keeps filling with air, dramatically reducing the efficacy of the filtration. When it’s running, I have to unscrew the vent cap every 15 minutes or so to let all the air out.
I can find no defect in the parts or my setup. The o-ring on the filter chamber cap was a pain to stuff back into the chamber housing, until I used dielectric grease to lube it. I also greased the connection fitting from the big tube coming from the suction tubes to the pump inlet port. All of the connections on the suction side of the pump are tight, and I see no leakage.
I have observed that, while in use, the two translucent suction-side tubes, about 2 feet each, have lots and lots of tiny air bubbles form in them, which of course travel with the water towards the pump. If there were pinholes in the translucent tubes, I would think there would at least be seepage observable when the pump was not on, but I have not seen it.
Could the [inadequate but still strong] pump drop the pressure to such an extent that air dissolved in the pool water is actually coming out of it in the suction tubes, the way CO2 comes out of carbonated beverages when the cap comes off, thus dropping the pressure?
Whether or not that is the culprit, is there any device I can introduce in the suction tube system that could vent the air before it reaches the filter chamber, without also venting all the pool water?
Or do you think it’s likely the problem lies elsewhere?
A small amount of air will always be in the filter tank. it’s normal to have some air. When too much air enters the filter, it will push out into the pool. As long as the pump continues to pump, there should be no problem. You may be worrying yourself over a non-problem, as the filter chamber would not be FULL of air, if the pump is continuing to pump water. If you have continuous bubbles in the pool wall return, then you have an air leak, which will always be before the pump impeller. Usual places are the pump lid oring, or the threaded hose adapter on the pump or on the pool, not installed with thread sealant like Teflon tape.
I screwed up! While doing several different things around the pool this AM I switched from back washing the filter to charging the filter with DE powder, Unfortunately without switching the filter from back wash to filter. The inside of the filter is now loaded with DE powder and will blow the DE powder into the pool when running in filter mode. Does anyone out there have an easy way to clear the interior of the filter ?
Hi, no easy way, I think I would just let it blow into the pool, and then vacuum it back into the filter – several times. 🙂
Hi! We have a Intex Sand Filter Pump. 4 months old. We were trying to trouble shoot our skimmer not working well and wanted to check the collection basket to make sure nothing was clogged. In the process we opened the basket and lost a lot of water even w the pump off. We finally figured out the water was pulling from the jet source. After getting the clear lid back on we started the pump Back up and now it is surging . The pressure goes down fast and comes back up fast. Any thoughts? We double checked to make sure the seal was tight on the basket lid.
haha, that musta been a sight, the pump erupting with water, and you two dancing around! 🙂 Well, likely the pump lid o-ring popped off during the event. Or the lid is not tight as possible. Maybe the hose clamp is loose or if unions, maybe the union nuts at the end of the hose are loose, or the o-ring inside the union is mis-aligned. Check that the hoses are not split and leaking or crimping/collapsing during surge.
When removing a pump lid for an above ground pool that has the filter equipment below the water level, you have to close the shut-off valves on the inlet and outlet hoses. Or place the filter on the Closed position, and close the suction side valve, or plug the skimmer with a tight plug. Some pools do not include valves and so you must purchase later and install them, or at least one on the inlet suction side. You can use ball valves or slice valves, both inexpensive, with two hose adapters and two hose clamps per valve, to connect flexible hoses. Intex has valves also. You can also raise the pump/filter higher, placing it 24″ off the ground, on a small, sturdy table for example, will reduce the volume of gravity water flow considerably.
I have a Hayward S244T sand filter and I’m having to backwash every day if not twice today because I lose pressure and it only works correctly for a while after I back washed and rinsed. Skimmers are clear there’s no leaking anywhere that I see. What else could it be?
Hi Layla, I would try some Sand Filter Cleaner, use it a few times, and see if that will help. Another method is to open up the top and inspect the sand. Be sure it’s filled up to about 2/3 full, and run your hands in it, feeling for greasy gunk, or hardened calcified chunks. Irrigate with a garden hose is good too, allowing the tank to overflow. If the sand was recently changed, you could possibly have bought some junky sand, not graded properly to 0.45mm-0.55mm, aka #20 silica sand.
I have a 22×52 Coleman II Above ground pool. My pump is not circulating water. All the lines are clear and free of debris and I have the type A-F filter that it calls for. When the pump is on it is louder than normal and is not moving water. What does this mean? Thank you for any help.
Mandy
Hi ya Mandy, that would/could/should mean that either there is an air leak drawing in air instead of water (the path of least resistance), or the impeller is clogged, or worse the impeller has melted or disconnected from the shaft, or it could be a motor problem. Be sure all hoses are tightly connected with o-ring seal in the unions, all valves are open for full flow, and that the impeller is not clogged, and spins with the shaft turning.
I have a Hayward pool pump and filter. We just started it as it’s our first pool and the pump pulls the water from the slimmer fine but all of a sudden it seems to suck a great deal of water. The filter reads pressure of zero or 2 but when the pump sucks the water it seems to shoot the water from the jets. What could cause this to happen?
Hi Jason, sounds like an air leak, and a pump that is surging. Take a look at this post: https://blog.intheswim.com/pool-pump-surging/
Hi Davy,
I have a Hayward Power-flo matrix filter for my 10,000 gallon above ground pool. The pump doesn’t have a backwash feature. Every time I vacuum the pool the dirt comes right back into the pool. Also, if I don’t turn the pump on the water looks clear. As soon as I turn it on dirt appears all over the floor of the pool and the water looks cloudy. I changed the cartridge and I have no idea what could be wrong. Also the return water is coming out into the pool with a ton of force. Help! Thank you!
Hi Amy, the filter may be too small for the pump? Or, the filter may be missing parts, or the filter cartridge may not be inserted or seated fully, to allow bypass. Maybe there is a plumbing bypass, around the filter? Maybe the filter is installed backwards? Something is wrong, you should not have this issue.
I have about 30k gal lap pool @ 10 x 90 foot about 5 feet deep. Just redid all the piping from where pipes come into pool house. All new jandys, and all new connections to filter and pump. I’m getting about 15 lbs on filter, no de yet, and pump seems to be pretty full going thru. Problem us I have virtually no suction at skimmers. Seems like barely enough to keep water moving but no swirly’s in them. I’m running a Harris 1.5 hp pump with a fns 60 filter. Could it just need a bigger pump? Had a 1.5 Hayward before and seems fine, just the cheaper brand maybe?
Hi Gary, sounds like a great pool! All 1.5 HP pumps are not equal in flow rates. There can be huge differences, depending on model. There are low-flow, med-flow and high-flow pumps, all with 1.5hp motors. Look at the flow curve for the pump you have now, and compare it to the one you had before. Also be sure your skimmers have weirs in them, and Jandy valves are adjusted properly. Running filter without DE powder will slow flow quickly, and can clog up the grids. High water level can give the appearance of low flow. Or, as you suggest, it could be the new pump. If so, look at getting a VS pump, which are required after next July…
Hi, I have a Hatmywars Pro-serious High Rate Sand Filter model 166t and. Hayward Maxie Pump model AC2000MXV 2hp SPL, yes a little over kill for a 12x24x52 intex pool all modified and with a Hayward built in skimmer. My problem A the PSI stay right above 50 Psi right after backwash needing backwashes just below and B when I vacuum on filter the waste seems to go back into the pool so I have to waste it…
What am I doing wrong?
Kelly, if your filter pressure reads 50 psi, that is very dangerous. A 2 hp pump on a 16″ sand filter is not a good idea. Sell the pump and buy a 3/4 hp PowerFlo pump – Max-Flo pump is way too strong, both for the filter and the pool. 50 psi is the max working pressure for that filter, and you risk a rupture of the tank or valve that can injure or kill a person standing nearby, or at least destroy the filter and drain the pool.
Wonderful 🤦♀️ I just bought that pump at $249😩. Is this why why I am sweeping is going right back in?
Yes, the pump would push the dirt directly thru the sand, it cannot be filtering hardly at all, and will likely soon turn hazy, if not already.
I have a Haywood S220T sand filter the keeps blowing the o-ring out . We replaced the old o-ring but still have the problem. Any suggestions?
Hi Bruce, maybe the clamp band is not tight enough, or the bolt might be stripped, or may have stripped before and left the nut threads on the bolt. Or perhaps the pool pump is much too large for the filter? OR the sand is calcified? In both cases, the filter pressure would run high normally, in excess of 20 psi.
Hi Davy,
I am afraid I have a similar issue and can’t seem to troubleshoot to a solution. I have an 8,500 gallon pool, run with a new 1.5 HP Century pump (3450 rpm single speed) and a DE Hayward Perflex EC40 filter. I have a polypropylene solar heater on the roof that requires a 30 ft horizontal push and 15 ft vertical push after the pump. I can bypass the solar heater. All PVC is 1 and 1/2 inch.
Upon first ever start up in June, pressure (after adding 4lbs of DE) was 22. Within two weeks, it rose to 24 and air bubbles started coming out when using the solar heater. Note, I have checked thoroughly and don’t believe there are any suction side leaks. Each time I bumped, pressure dropped to 23, but rose to 24 within a day or so and same issue of low flow and air bubbles. Even when bypassing the roof heater, pressure still 23 or 24 with weak flow. Pressure never rises above 24. When I bypass the heater, pressure was still roughly 23-24 with a weak flow (albeit no air bubbles noticed).
I have removed all DE from filter fully twice since. The second time was a very thorough cleaning to ensure all existing DE was removed. With no DE at all and bypassing the heater, pressure gets as low as 20. With 4 pounds of DE, lowest pressure is 22. Unfortunately, pressure now rises to 24 within a couple days and back to weak flow and air bubbles (air bubbles only when solar roof is on).
Any ideas? Could 1.5 hp pump be too strong or too weak? Is a baseline pressure of 22 for this type of setup normal? It seems like I should be able to get to a lower starting pressure with this set up. I am new to pools and hoping I am missing something simple here.
Puzzled,
Tom in Rochester,NY
Hi Tom, my first thought is that a 1.5 hp pump is pretty big for an EC40, and such a small pool, and is likely the reason for the high pressure. Not sure what make/model it is, but you can find a flow chart for the pump online and see what the flow rate is, at different levels of resistance (feet of head). The EC40 has a design flow rate of 40 GPM. More than that and you will get higher pressure and low flow. The filter could be clogged with minerals/scale also, but the main problem is likely the pump. Also, be sure that your ‘pound’ of DE powder is actually 32 oz, not 16 oz. Other than that, you may consider a bypass plumbing arrangement, around the filter, using tee fittings, and a valve, to go around the filter, to reduce the flow rate entering the filter, but still have enough oomph to make it up to the roof effectively. I would not worry about the air in the system, it may be entering from the drain down air valve on the solar system. “Normal” pressure may be 10 psi +/-, but it varies from 2-20 on different systems.
Hi Davy,
Thank you – it sounds like a lower hp pump may be in my future. Before going this route, I have read about putting a Hayward flow restrictor / flow controller (ECX1055) between the pump and the filter to reduce the flow to the filter. I do not recall installing this when setting up my filter.
Would it make sense to purchase one of these and try this as a means to reduce the flow to the filter (and thus the pressure in the filter) or is this just likely to place undue stress on the pump itself?
Thank you once again!
Tom
Hi Tom, that would be a cheaper experiment than the bypass – just $7 for the disk, it is inserted behind the check valve on the bottom of the tank. https://www.intheswim.com/p/hayward-perflex-ecx1055-flow-controllr – it will put some stress on the pump, but less stress on the filter. Solar heating will be more effective with slower flow rates as well, although perhaps you have a valve to throttle that already.
My sand filter seems to only work properly after performing a backwash and rinse cycle. I can see and feel the pressure in the water. After a couple of hours the pressure is almost nonexistent. Any thoughts?
Cameron, please read similar problems / solutions in the comments below.
we can not get the filter tank drain to close. Help!
Hi Beth, most filter drain plugs or caps use a gasket or o-ring, make sure yours is still there. If so, you can put some teflon tape around the male threads and/or some silicone sealant to improve the seal. Also check that no sand is in the grooves and the threads are not stripped.
Hi! We have the Intex 2800 Above Ground Pool Sand Filter installed on our SummerWaves above ground pool which is 15×48. We installed the pump just yesterday. Everything seems to work fine except we found sand in the pool this morning and were having sand in our backwash. Not sure to keep backwashing—as the pool loses water each time—or if there’s a problem with the sand. Also started having problems with the psi staying near at least five on the gauge. Can you please tell me what we’re doing wrong? My husband purchased the Quikrete pool filter sand and followed directions on the installation. I’m just stumped and ready to give up.
Hi Stacey, that sounds like maybe too much sand was added, over the fill line. Don’t worry about it too much, it should subside. If it continues over time, there may be something cracked in the bottom of the tank, allowing sand to come into the pool. If the sand coming in is very dusty (not granular), and if ‘poofs’ when you hit it with a brush, it is mostly ‘sand dust’, and should subside. The pressure differential is odd, but also maybe nothing to worry about. It also could be a bad batch of sand, graded to the wrong size, which we have seen lots of problems with this year.
I have a 33 ft above ground pool ,I had to change out the 7position valve and now when I backwash I have no pressure coming out the hose . Pressure on tank when running filter is perfect
Hi David, that is odd, are we sure the plumbing is correct on the valve, the correct hose/pipes connected to PUMP/RETURN ports on the valve? Probably… and is the stand pipe inserted fully into the bottom of the valve? Probably. No valve on the backwash line, right? Might open up the valve (pump off and handle in BW position) and check for any obstruction or check the position of the rotor/diverter. Is it new sand? Might try a sand filter cleaner perhaps, which is added while the valve is in the backwash position, and soaks overnight.
Hi, I have an Hayward Perflex Series Extended Cycle Filtration System and when I attempt to vacuum the pool the filter does not maintain suction the water level in the strainer basket drops and I lose suction.
I thought it might be that the pump was worn (about 10 years old)so I replaced it with a Blue Torrent 1.5 hp pump but the problem continue.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Dennis
Hi Dennis, either there is a split/crack in your vacuum hose, or an air leak in front of the pump. If not the hose, check the fitting going into the pump and make sure the pump lid is very tight, with lubed o-ring. Sometimes, when a vacuum hose is connected, this causes more suction (vacuum) pressure, which causes an air leak to appear, where normally there is none.
I have an Intex 26651EG 3000 GPH Above Ground Pool Sand Filter Pump with Automatic Timer. The valve will not turn. It’s stuck on filter, and I’m trying to turn it to backwash.
Hi Amy, just to be sure, you are shutting off the pump before turning the handle? And you are pushing down on the handle fully before turning? You may try opening up the air bleeder on the filter, if you have one, or closing incoming/outgoing valves, if you have them. If you have access to a strong person, maybe they can try. If it still won’t budge, plug the hoses, or close the valves, and remove the screws around the lid of the valve, and see if there is sand or something else obstructing the valve, on the inside.
I have a Hayward C900 filter. The lid came off. I seems that the lid doesn’t catch on the rod. I made sure the filter was in correctly. I went to the pool store, they said my lid tighten on their C900 filter, not sure if it was really secure. Mine seems like it tightens a little.
Barbara, I suppose that the o-ring (O-288)inside the lid (where the rod passes thru) is intact, and the larger lid o-ring (O-240) is also fitting well and not damaged? And also are there two of the Teflon washers (CX900W) in place, along with the Guide Cone (CX900D)? Check the parts schematic to see if all the parts are there, and none missing.
Davy,
I’ve got a Pentair sand filter, in normal filter mode it moves lots of water and maintains 8psi, however in backwash I’m not sure about psi but I get very little water coming out of the port. I’m also not sure it’s actually filtering as the water remains cloudy even when it’s chemically balanced. I have backwashed the filter a number of times and find the water to be clear. The handle does get a bit loose when I screw the top portion of the valve down, the spider gasket is solid in place and not rolling. I’m at a loss at this point.
Hi Jason, it sounds like the multiport valve may not be to blame, but maybe the filter sand has problems. I would remove the valve from the tank and irrigate the sand bed with a garden hose, sticking it deep into the sand bed, and letting the tank overflow (shielding the pump motor from splashing water). Dig your hands in there too, and see how it feels, looking for calcification or slimy gunk. It could be time for new sand, or maybe just irrigating it, or you could just try a Filter Cleaner chemical first, backwashing it into the tank, and shutting off the pump overnight, then backwash in the morning. If it seems to help somewhat, the process can be repeated the next night.
Thank you for your reply I will give that a shot, I forgot to mention my waste is moving very little water as well.
Well now that changes things, if both backwash and waste are moving very little water, and the pressure on the gauge is higher when in these two positions, that would indicate an obstruction in the waste line. I assume that there is no valve on the waste line, if so be sure it is not partially closed. If there is PVC pipe attached to the waste line, and not a flexible backwash hose, then you may assume a clog or collapse of the line. If you have PVC pipe as a backwash line, I’d suggest cutting it open, and pivoting the pipe and trying again. If that’s all good… how about the possibility that the valve is plumbed backwards? Pipe from pump attached to the Return port and vice-versa? You said you have opened up the valve, and no problems found inside. (The handle should become a little bit looser as you tighten down the cover screws on the valve…)
We have an AquaPro Sand Filter for our above ground pool. Upon running it for the first time, the pressure gauge reads ‘9’ then goes back down to zero. Any suggestions on troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated — the troubleshooting guide that came with the pump/filter is no help. Thanks!
Susannah, it could be any number of things, but when pressure drops to zero, usually the water flow also drops to near zero. This could be from low water level or something blocking water flow in the skimmer. It could be an air leak near the pump like a loose pump lid, or a loose pipe coming into the pump. It could be something clogging the impeller, maybe the pump basket is not locked in place and letting debris bypass.
I suspected a leak and got fix-a leak for treatment,. (It worked 2 yrs ago) As per instructions I set it on Recirculate and went inside the house for 10 minutes. When I came back, to my amazement the water level dropped almost 2 inches… What on earth happened?
Hi Gabriela, unsure of what happened, perhaps the water ran out of your waste line? Or the increased flow rate of being on recirculate may have opened up a leak in the return line even more than before.
I have a new 10 ” Intex sand filter for a 15′ ubove ground pool. We have use it for 4 months. The control handle is getting very hard to move. I’m afraid I will break the handle. I have tried silicone lube but did not help. Can hear a gritty sound moving handle.
Probably have sand in the valve, pull the 6 screws, remove the lid/handle/diverter and clean the gasket. Lube is not needed. You may have too much sand in the tank? Or maybe someone is turning the valve while the pump is running? (a no-no)
Hi there. I have a Hayward DE3620 filter. Yesterday I backwashed it for the first time and added DE back per the manual. I then added no phos as suggested based on my last water test. After only a few hours the pressure was pushing 25 and this morning it was at 30. The no phos bottle suggested if the pressure was 10lbs higher than normal to backwash for a minute. I have done this a few times and the pressure keeps headed up to 25. I am not sure if this is normal after using this product and it just needs to run its course or if I did something wrong. Any thoughts?
Eddy, that is normal. although for DE & Cartridge Filters: directions say to not add more than 1.5L (48oz) at a time. Phosfree works by filtering out the phosphates, which are removed by backwashing. It may also gum up the DE filter grid. If psi does not come down to normal, remove grids and clean manually, and soak in TSP or filter cleaner.
Hi, my intex sand filter all the sudden has low water pressure but the gauge reads goods but water comes out with less force as normal now. After I backwash it the pressure is good for about an hour and then it will go back down. I tore the filter apart searching for a clog or bad gasket and came up with nothing. Any ideas?
Lower than normal pressure indicates a clog or restriction on the suction side, or an air leak, before the pump impeller. Higher than normal pressure indicates a clog or restriction after the pump impeller.
I let a friend use my intex pool. She decided to try to empty the skimmer and didn’t know what she was doing. When I got home there was no suction going thru the skimmer line and also the line that pumps water back into the pool isn’t working. I have a sand filter. I have no clue what to do now.
Amy, if the skimmer is flooded with water and the pump has water in it, but is not pumping, it could have overheated, if run for a long time without water. This can warp plastic parts like the impeller or pump housing. It could also be the hose adapter that threads into the pump, it may have melted and shrunk, and now draws air. If so, it will probably be dripping water when the pump is off.
I used a clarifier that settled the pool waste to the bottom of the pool. I attempted to vac the pool with the filter set to waste but the pool waste is still being shot back into the pool via the return. This has never happened before and I have done this twice so far this summer. I have a sand filter and the pool waste is not sand
Any advice? Thanks
Hi Doc, the spider gasket inside the filter must be damaged and likely in need of replacement. Top mounted Hayward valves have the gasket on the bottom of the diverter, and Pentair valves have a separate gasket that fits into the valve body. Order the replacement spider gasket (or for Hayward the diverter, or entire Key Assembly) for your valve model, and replace.
Thanks Davy, I did all that and everything looks good, I’m puzzled.
I’m reminded of a similar situation years ago, probably not the case here, but the slide valve plunger was broken, and the bottom disk was staying put at the bottom of the valve cylinder, when the plunger was pulled up. Maybe inspect the plunger/piston, if not done already?
Good morning! I have a Hayward DE filter with a slide valve, I have always done the back washing and cleaning myself with no problems until last night, I went to do the usual(or so I thought) cleaning I do every 2 months.
Turned the pump off, turn the slide valve to unlock an pulled it up to back wash and locked it, turned pump back on and waited for the water to come out to the drain after one minute and no water flow I looked to the pump strainer cover and there seem to be no water coming in from the pool, I turned off the pump, turned the slide valve back to the filter position (down) and locked it, turned pump back on and it primed and run with no problem (water circulating normal to the pool, after a few minutes, tried the back wash again and same problem no water coming out from back wash hose and no water circulating from the pool to the pump:(.
Brand new slide valve with all the gaskets on and lubed, no air bubbles on pump skimmer, any suggestions?
Thank you in advance
Hello – hmmm, that’s a stumper! So, no water flow on backwash… I would disconnect the backwash hose, and see if there is some obstruction at the bottom of the slide valve chamber, or in the 90 fitting, at the bottom of the valve, where the hose attaches. IF not, open the tank, and hose off the grids and inspect the standpipe inside the tank, also looking for an obstruction of some sort.
I have a Hayward DE filter for an above ground pool. Two things – the pump has a clear window and there is always a large air bubble there. I can’t find anything leaking or open that would cause that. Any ideas? And also the water in the slimmer isn’t being sucked in… it’s moving water because there’s water in there but there isn’t any force in the skinner basket. My flapper weir isn’t flapping just staying open. Any ideas about any of that? Thanks!
karen, the air in the pump is normal. The skimmer suction may be low because the water is too high, or the weir is stuck, or the pump is weak or the impeller clogged, or the filter dirty, or the main drain valve open too much, or the skimmer line is clogged, or the pipe is collapsed. Or ten other things.
Hi I have a new Hayward swimpro voyager cartridge pump. My psi reading is strange and it does not sound normal. It’s at 1 psi then about 10-15 min later it jumps to 15 psi and the water wooshes out in the pool. Please help I’m new to all of this.
Hi Jenna – check out this recent post on pool pump surging – https://blog.intheswim.com/pool-pump-surging/
I have a Triton II sand filter with a Whisper-flo pump. There is hardly any pressure. It is not the water level and I replaced the pump and motor, so it is not the impeller. There are no air bubbles so it is not a leak on the intake. A clog on the intake line is very unlikely. There is very little water movement on either the old or new pump. Other then cutting into the intake line to look for a clog, what else could it be.
Get a Drain King at the hardware store, connect it to the garden hose, and stick it into the pump, facing the pool, turn on the hose. Then use a plug or tennis ball, to cover the skimmer hole for 3-4 seconds and release, to let pressure build up, sort of a water hammer effect. This is to try to unclog the pipe. Do it the other way, from the skimmer to the pump, with the filter valve on closed, to check for any air leaks before the pump.
I have an intex sand pump hooked up to a 8 ft stock tank. I believe I have it set up properly. When I run it, it seems to gain pressure and then decrease pressure. It does this over and over. Also after it gains pressure and water is flowing well, it only last for a few seconds and then decreases before it builds over time. I have noticed that after it builds and then decreses, an air bubble come up from the stainer filter in the pool.( I call it the intake). Not sure what is going on… Thanks Matt.
Hi Matt, I might call that ‘a surging pump’, and it can be fixed. It could be a hose that is collapsing, or crimping under the vacuum suction, the pump being too powerful for the hose, probably not the case, since the hoses came with the filter…. It could be that a suction hose is split, or has small holes drawing in air, or it could be drawing air from the union connections on the pool or at the pump, if they are not tight or missing the internal o-ring. It could be something like a flap of vinyl or plastic piece obstruction the suction line, or if water level was low, it might draw air in from a vortex to the surface (usually happens more with surface skimmers). Something may be drawing in air, which it only does under “full prime”, draws in air (from somewhere only BEFORE the pump impeller), which bogs down the pump and causes it to ‘lose prime’ for a bit.
This blog has some tips on locating an air leak: https://blog.intheswim.com/air-in-pool-pump-or-bubbles-in-the-pool/
We replaced the sand in the filter. Reconnected everything. Turned on pump runs strong for about 10 min. Then slows down. Turn it off and back on same thing. Do you have suggestion on what could be the problem
Hi Rhonda, I think bad sand. We have had reports of similar nature from many this year. One brand (HTH) has been called out a few times, but there are others, likely packaged by the same sand yard. What brand of sand did you use? We’d like to know. Then I would suggest, as awful as this advice is… that you dump the sand on the door step of the place that sold it to you, and then go across town and buy a different brand. If you have limited options, we have filter sand here, $25 bucks per 50lb bag, but free shipping.
I am having trouble getting pool clean, the water is a greenish color and cloudy. The sand in the filter was old so I replaced it. After changing the sand and backwashing and rinsing the psi on the guage is still 20 psi. That is what it was with the old sand. Could there be something else that is wrong with the filter?
Sand filters can struggle with cloudy conditions, even with new sand, so I’d suggest using a Clarifier, per label dosage, and focus on the water balance and chlorine level. pH 7.2-7.6, Alkalinity 80-150 ppm, Calcium, 150 ppm minimum for vinyl 180 ppm for plaster. And a good consistent chlorine level of 3-5 ppm. Keep adding pool shock until the water turns a blue-grey color and then run the filter non-stop, or near 24/7, and don’t backwash unless pressure rises to 25 psi, or water flow decreases noticeably. For sand filters that are on the small side, the Slime Bag is a nice accessory to own, like a secondary filter, the mesh bag attaches to the return line for use once or twice per year, as needed.
Our pump lid broke and its unfixable. Its at least 3-4 weeks before a new one will arrive. Is there anything we can use to make a temporary lid?
I suppose if you had heavy vinyl or rubber sheeting, you could wrap over the lid tightly, and use heavy rubber bands or a wire twisted at the ends, to hold it in place. Your lid, if not completely crushed, but just cracked, may be fixed with superglue?
I backwashed & rinsed my Hayward system twice & now when try to bleed the air to ‘prime’ before adding the DE I get no water. I closed the air valve to see if that would build pressure & it didn’t. I saw you told someone here to use the Waste or Recirculate option so I did both of them & still nothing. If this means I have a clog somewhere I have no idea how to unclog it. We bought the house a couple months ago so I’m learning as I go.
Thanks.
I fixed it!! I found a drain clog bladder adapter for my garden hose at a hardware store & used it on the pump filter & then the closest skimmer.
Drain King? Essential item in any poolmans toolbox.
Kevin, this most likely is an air leak, is the pump lid gasket in place? Is the pump lid (very) tight? The pipe that threads into the front of the pump, is it loose? Does it drip water? (#1 source of air leak) – is the water level in the pool okay? Is the skimmer full of water? Are the incoming suction valves open? are the return side valves open? Is the pump basket in place? Is the impeller clogged perhaps?
My pool filter turns on but no water is coming out of small tube back into the pool
Hi Marina, that’s a rather broad question it could be many things. First off the pump could have an air leak from a loose pipe coming in, or a loose pump lid. Or an obstruction in the pipes bringing water from the pool, or a crimp in hoses (abg pools). Is the water level in the pool good? If you have a multiport filter valve (sand or DE filters), put the valve on recirculate or waste and see if the pump will ‘catch prime’. IF a cartridge filter, pull out the cartridge, and see if the water will flow…
My pool was running fine. I cleaned and all, back flush etc. That evening I went out and the pool water lever had dropped several inches. I checked the valve and they”plunger was in the right position. Looked over the wall and saw a “trickle” Of water coming out of the back flush pipe. I did notice that when I back flushed earlier the plunger didn’t seem the same in that when you turn it to lock It in, it didn’t seem to turn as far and the lock
In felt not as solid. Almost forced. Also I cannot maintain prime now. The pool is about 24 yrs aged.,I don’t think the backflush valve is that old.
George, fill up the pool, so the pump will catch prime, then go out over the wall and find the plunger o-ring that fell off the bottom disk, or just buy a new o-ring for the slide valve, since it is likely damaged or stretched out. You may be able to use the old o-ring temporarily, until you get a new one, or plug the waste line, again temporarily.
My Filter was cleaned a month ago. Odd problem. when i turn the skimmers off but leave the cleaner on, pump seems to work great. as soon as i turn the skimmer back on it gets much louder and my gauge will read “clean filter”. Does this mean i have a clog?
Hi Trey, interesting question, and it has to do with the additional load that the cleaner places on the pump, which quiets down the pump and lowers the pressure. There could still be a clog, after the pump, if this pressure is not normal, (and cleaning the filter does not help).
Hi. I have a sand filter on my pool that is leaking water, actually is coming a big jet of water from the back of the pressure gauge, it looks like there’s some kind of relief valve on the back of it (I don’t have an idea what is that). I browsed the web in search of an answer but I can’t find a similar problem. Thanks
Hugo, many sand filters with side mount valves do have an air relief next to the pressure gauge, usually with a thumb dial to open and close the bleeder valve. Sounds like the thumb screw may be missing, or the very tiny o-ring may be missing. Search for air relief or air release for sand filter. If it is a Pentair or Hayward, use that also in your search, to find what part may be missing. Or just find the schematic parts page for your filter Make and Model.
Thanks Davy! Have a great summer 🙂
Hello my pump won’t filter (no water comes through barely)in the filter position..works good and strong in the (N) and (Recirculate) positions. Please help. Thank you
Andrea, not sure what “N” is, perhaps Waste, but recirculate is a filter bypass setting, where water does not enter the filter tank. Have you tried backwashing the filter? Or, have you tried a Sand Filter Cleaner? (it may be clogged with oils and/or scale). If you have replaced the sand this year, it possibly could be bad sand that was not graded properly, or could be an incorrect type of sand. If nothing else works, consider replacing the sand with a different brand, of #20 silica sand, labeled as Pool Filter Sand.
I have a small problem with air bubbles coming out of all 3 of my jets. Also periodically I lose the prime and need to pour water in the basket to start filtering process. Valves are all on 50/50 and running at 15 on pressure gage.Pool is a 17 x 32 in ground with a 1 hp Hayward motor. Suggestions
Hi Phil, an air leak is going to be in front of the impeller, and 9 times out of 10 it is either a loose pump lid/unlubed lid o-ring, or a shrunken and loose threaded pipe fitting screwed into the front of the pump. The other 10% of the time it will be leaky suction side valves. Here’s more info: https://blog.intheswim.com/air-in-pool-pump-or-bubbles-in-the-pool/
My sand filter when vacuming dirt from floor now blows dirt right back , its never done this before . we live in a harsh Environment and has to be vacumed Every day this weekend is when the dirt started blowing back into P I pulled the sand and washed it put it back and it still doing the same thing
Larry, it might be that the sand has become rounded, with happens with age, when grains become round, they no longer trap dirt as well. It could also be that your filter is very clean, as a dirty sand filter will trap more dirt. Or perhaps your pump, if new is too large for the filter tank size. However, sand filters are known to pass fine, silty dirt. You can assist by using a Clarifier weekly, or using a scoop of Alum on top of the sand bed to act as a Filter Aid, or use a secondary filter, in the Slime Bag product, a mesh bag that attaches to the return, or vacuum to waste, quickly before the water level drops too far.
I have a 15′ Intex Round with the 2 1.25″ inlets that T off to a 1.5″ line that goes to my Bestway Sand filter rated at 2000GPH.
I am noticing that one of the inlets has great suction, but the 2nd one is very weak. When I hook a vac to the second line, the suction is so weak I can’t pick up any debris.
The pressure gauge on the filer reads about 7PSI which is below the max of 8 that they recommend.
What am I doing wrong? I would consider cutting all the holes in the pool to 1.5″ but I don’t want to have to drain the pool half way.
Hi Rob, that does not make sense, they should pull the same, if they are both connected to equal lengths of hose from the tee fitting. There may be a flap of vinyl covering the jet in the weak one, or a clog in the hose, or an air leak on the hose clamp? And when you say ‘Inlet’, you mean the suction outlets, right? Where water is coming out of the pool… just so were on the same page. They should have the same suction, but if you cover one, it will draw from the other, designed as a safety set-up, so you cannot get suctioned to one… When vacuuming thru either, you would need to plug the other…
Hi.
We recently moved in and the property had a pool with a hayward 3600 DE filter. We had some problems getting the water clean so after some troubleshooting (with the help of your article) i found that the filter elements were all torn. I ordered a replacement for the whole assembly and refitted successfully with a new o-ring on the exit pipe.
I charged the system with DE and run the pump. After a while the pressure went up significantly so I did a backwash which helped a bit but after a while the pressure goes up and I see very little water making its way back to the pool. I thought that I may have clogged the system with too much DE so I opened the filter, took the filter elements out and hosed the whole thing down.
I reassembled it and ran it again. It works fine for 15-20 mins then the pressure starts building up to almost 30psi (the previous owner told me the normal pressure is usually not more than 20 on this system).
It does not look like there is any blockage as I can see a nice and strong jet of water for 15-20 mins before the pressure builds up. When I bypass the filter the stream is strong and steady.
There is no air build up in the filter tank.
Do you have any idea as to why the pressure builds up so quickly and any suggestions on what to do 5o remedy this?
Hi Sammy, perhaps you are not using enough DE powder? Each 1 lb scoop, should be 32 oz of dry measure, not 16 oz as one would think. Also, avoid using Clarifier in your pool, which can clog a DE filter.
I have a sand filter that was working great the first few weeks but then something happened. When the filter is in filter mode, little water comes out the output and the pressure is a little high but when the filter is in recirculate the pressure is normal and the normal amount of water comes out. I have checked all the pipes and cleaned them along with cleaning the basket. Backwashing does not seem to do anything and I am not sure what to do.
Hi, Recirculate is a filter bypass mode, water does not enter the filter. So your filter sand is either bad sand (there has been a problem with that this year, poorly graded sand, among some brands), or the filter is clogged with oily substances. Try a Filter Cleaner chemical, or irrigate the sand bed with a garden hose, letting the tank overflow, or replace the sand with a different brand.
I have a 33000 gallon inground pool with a Hayward DE 4820 filter. It has 4 returns. One return keeps losing all pressure. The other three are fine. If I rerout water to the one non working return it blows bubbles then works. Eventually it stops again. Any suggestions as to why? Pool is otherwise filtering fine.
It might be the size of the eyeball fitting, or the lack of an eyeball fitting. Some returns need some back pressure to work properly. The size of the eyeball – use smaller orifice eyeball fittings on the returns closest to the pump, (3/8″ eye), and use largest eyeballs (3/4″ or 1″) on the return furthest from the pump, or last on the line, to help balance flow among returns. IF that does not help, it could be a clog in the pipe or crimp in the (flex) pipe going to that return – this would be evident by high filter gauge pressure when sending water to just that return.
Hi, we are new to the world of pools having just installed an above ground pool with sand filter. We’ve had a few teething problems but today I’m stumped.
Even though the pump appears to be running and the pressure seems good there is no flow of water back into the pool. It’s a brand new filter with new sand so shouldn’t need cleaning. What could be the problem?
Samantha, if there is no flow back to the pool, the filter pressure should be very high, if there was no exit for the water. Is there also no suction in the skimmer? If the pump is running and there is very low flow, check that the pump impeller is not clogged, and Backwash the filter, Rinse the filter and return to the Filter position (turning pump off before turning handle).
How can you tell if you have an air leak in the pipe leading to pump? I loose pressure/ prime after an of solid operation. If a backwash, I get pressure back for about an hour then the suction and pump stops working again
Hi Phillip, probably not an air leak problem, which is not intermittent like you describe. Bad filter sand, time to replace the sand with new. You can also try to use our Sand FIlter Cleaner, or irrigate the sand bed with a high pressure garden hose, allowing the tank to overflow.
I have a sand filter /pump combo on an 18’ above ground pool. This is the 3rd year with a sand pump with no prior issues. My grandson dumped sand on top of the filter ports/handle In the pool etc we cleaned out the pump replaced the sand in the filter and since that the sand filter doesn’t seem to be filtering, all the debris dust etc is being returned to the pool. Any suggestions!? Also no pressure and have replaced the gauge as well
SHannon that sounds like the filter valve is on Recirculate position. If not, maybe the spider gasket inside the valve is busted. No one is turning the multiport valve while the pump is running I hope? (maybe the grandson? 🙂 )
I have an above ground pool with a sand filter. My filter works great but then goes to barely working and i have no suction to vacuum
That would mean that the sand needs to be replaced, or cleaned. Pick up a bottle of Sand Filter Cleaner, and backwash it into the tank, let it sit overnight, and then backwash fully. another method of cleaning the sand is to remove the valve from the top, and then use a garden hose to irrigate the sand bed, pushing the hose deep into the sand bed (with the water turned on), and letting the dirt and gunk flow over the top. You can also vacuum ‘to waste’, with a high water level, and with the valve set on the “waste” or Drain to Waste position.
Hi, I have a DE filter pump for an in ground pool of 30,000 gallon capacity. I have never had any problems with my pool filter until last year. I backwash it when the pressure gets too high, but no DE comes out. When I open the filter to clean it out. The DE is evenly distributed on my grids; but they are all coated with a heavy, slimy scum that prevents the DE from backwashing. I installed all new grids and the same thing happened. It is happening all over again this season. I just cleaned my filter two weeks ago because the pool wouldn’t backwash, and I added a quart of natural enzyme cleaner at the suggestion of my pool guy. The pressure is already too high again. I backwashed and no DE was discharged. Is it time for a new filter pump? This one is over 15 years old. I am at my wits end.
Maybe the filter valve is to blame? It could have a bad spider gasket, or other issue that is causing backwash to not work. YOu can open up the valve to inspect the insides, and if needed, replace the gasket, or the key assy, or the entire valve.
have 7 yr old hayward quad de 60 with multiport valve. this year it ran without de for about a week. I tired backwash and nothing came out.
taken apart and cartridges sprayed off. there was a bunch of chunky de in there
when de was added the pressure went high (tried two different meters) and the flow is still low
been getting worse and worse. need to turn the pump way higher than usual to run water features.
water features and flow are great in recirculate mode. the pool is covered when not in use and it has only been a couple of weeks. I don’t believe it needs backwash.
i bought new quad filters but they weren’t here on time so haven’t been installed, the air release valve has a slight crack and leak
How should I troubleshoot – is there anywhere it could be clogged where I can run a plumbing snake?
How can I tell if cartridges need replacing? never had any issues until this year
Hi Bill, the grids or carts are probably just clogged with micro particles, need a good soaking in a DE or Cartridge Filter CLeaner chemical, or can use 1 lb. per 5 gals TSP soak for oils and 10% solution Acid soak for scale.
When my pool is recirculating, the pressure is between 10-12 PSI. We prime the hose so we can vacuum then put one end in the skimmer. When we flip the pump from recirculate you waste so we can vacuum and the pressure falls to 5 PSI. We have checked the baskets (not broke), skimmer (no clog), and bought and tried on two new hoses (no leak). We are officially at a loss as to what is going on. Also, the pressure gauge is brand new too. What else do we need to look at?
Rachel, when the filter valve is on Waste, there should be no pressure, the gauge should register -0-, because the water is not going into the filter tank. Same thing with Recirulate, another bypass setting, which should also be zero. There may be a problem with the valve gasket, if there is pressure on these two settings. You do shut the pump off, before moving the valve, right?
I’ve spent hours on end and I’m completely at a loss as to why water is not flowing back to the pool. I have a brand new Haward DE filter, tried multiple pumps. There is no clog in the lines. Water flows fine into the pump and through filter when drain is open. The line going from the filter to the pool will shoot water out fine before being connected to the return. When I have the hose disconnected from return you can see water flowing freely out of return without restriction. I’m at a loss.
I will not that initially when I hooked up the new filter it was putting water back into the pool. Even now after hosing off the filter and reassembling it will start with a little bit of water going back to pool but will quickly, and I mean within probably 30 seconds, go back to no water going through the return jet.
If anyone has any suggestions I’m all ears. I’m out of ideas. Thank you!
Hi Taylor, that is unusual. it’s like it can’t overcome the resistance of pumping against the water pressure in the pool… is there an eyeball fitting on the wall return? Does it make a difference if it is used, or not? What if you were able to raise the filter system somewhat, 12-24″ off the ground? Also at a loss for ideas here…
Hi, I’m having a issue with my skimmer it has no suction. When the Jandy valve is in the middle gauges read fine, but no suction from skimmer. When I turn the Jandy valve to just the skimmer side the gauges drop to zero and wont prime
Raul, could be a clogged skimmer line, or possibly a collapsed pipe underground, if Flex PVC pipe was used. Go to the hardware store and pick up a Drain King, attach it to a garden hose. Remove the pump lid and stick it into the pipe that comes into the pump. Turn on the garden hose. Then go to the skimmer, remove the basket and reach down with a plug or tennis ball to plug the hole for a few seconds then release. Repeat several more times, to allow pressure to build up and release, to create a ‘water hammer’ effect. This is a way to unclog a skimmer. If that does not work, or perhaps before you do this, open up the Jandy valve and be sure it is not clogged.
I’ve tried the Drain King already it didn’t work. How would I know if the line is collapsed? I’m not losing water, pool level is good
OK, then I would try to snake the line, and if you can get only so far and it stops, it could be a 90, or it could be collapsed. A plumbers camera can also be used, tiny cameras on a cable that can be pushed into the line. They are really cheap now. It would not necessarily leak when collapsed. We have a blog post about it: https://blog.intheswim.com/sylvan-pool-flex-pipe-skimmer-repair/
When we opened our pool the filter and pump were working well. A half gallon of clarifier was accidentally poured into the pool and the water hasn’t been clear since. I replaced the sand and put too much sand in my filter and had sand in the pool and while backwashing. Sand isn’t coming in any more but the skimmer has no suction. I cleaned the impeller and blew out all hoses and replaced the multiport top. Still no suction. What else can I check?
Hi Joe, yes an overdose of clarifier can have the opposite effect, reversing the charge and acting as a dispersant, instead of a coagulant. For the skimmer, this is an aboveground pool? Then you can see the piping/hosing, and that would rule out a crimped or collapsed pipe. Is there a skimmer weir in place? That does not improve suction, but helps improve skimmer action. Is there a valve on the skimmer line? Could it be broken or closed? You say you blew out the hoses, so no chance of the skimmer hose being clogged? A Drain King is good to use for clogged skimmers.
Davy – Having unusual filter pressure issues all of a sudden (Sta-Rite DE filter). Cleaned my filter yesterday and added new DE when pressure reading was around 29 psi which represented an 11 psi increase since last cleaning about 10 days ago. Restarted pump and everything was fine w/pressure at 17 psi. Within 2 hours it had climbed up to 30 psi. I shut the pump down and restarted it and again everything was fine (back to 17 psi) but over the next hour it was back it 28+ psi. Had repeated that 2 more times again with similar reaction of being ok after off/on pump action for an hour or two – and not sure what the deal is.
Hi Jesse, when the pump shuts off for awhile, or if you do a very short (10 sec) backwash (bump), this sloughs off the DE/Dirt and mixes them up, resulting in lower pressure, because the water can pass thru at higher flow rates. The reason that it is ‘short cycling’, is that there is some oils clumpy gunk on the filters. Time to drain the tank, open it up, hose it off fully, and extra credit for soaking the grid assembly or spraying with a DE Filter Cleaner chemical, to remove oils and scale deposits. Then add a new charge of DE. If the problem repeats itself, try a different brand of DE powder? DO we now have DE powder problems too (in addition to the sand problems some people have had)?
James, that is a filter problem, it is either clogged with oils and/or scale, or the filter media (Sand/Cartridge) is old and needs replacement. Try a Filter Cleaner chemical first, and if that does not do it, replace the media.
I just installed a brand new DE50 Hayward filter with fingers and 1.5 hp pump. I have to bump/backwash it after running it for only 30-45 mins because the psi rises to 20-24psi. I installed it 2 wks ago and I’ve cleaned it completely 4 times already my pool was clear but now it’s turning green!! Please help! I have a 30ft round above ground pool. Thank you in advance for your help.
Hi Monique, either the fingers are clogged with oils or scale, or you are not using enough DE powder. Remove the assembly and soak in a Filter Cleaner, or in TSP and warm water, which removes oils. When you add DE, keep in mind that 1 lb. of DE powder is actually 32 oz dry measure, not 16 oz. Keep your chlorine high and pH low, and run the pump as long as you can each day, at least 12 hours per day.
Keep losing pressure, we have a sand filter. It did push water back through the skimmer a couple times, we have changed the sand, cleaned the pump basket, pressure gauge shoes no pressure. Any advice
Hi Theresa, check for an air leak in front of the pump, or a clogged pump impeller.
Hi Davy, my filter pressure is at 30 lbs. The filter is clean,not new. I changed the plumbing into the filter it had 5 elbows, now 1, no change. Removed filter to run it without one, to see if clogged stayed at 10 lbs. cleaned the clean filter again, installed, after 10 mins. back to 30. Correct filter from Hayward. Baffling. With high pressure vaccum fails to work. THANKS in advance.
Hi Eddy, the filter must be clogged, with oil or scale, or both. Use a Cartridge Pool Filter Cleaner chemical, -OR- soak in TSP and warm water for a few hours, then rinse, to remove oils. Then soak in a 10% acid solution for a few hours, then rinse and reinstall.
pool vacuum was working. When I came back there was no suction. I changed the sand and returned to service but there still is insufficient suction. Water is coming out leaking of the back wash.
Help
Mike, check that the pump impeller is not clogged, or the pipe from skimmer. Check that the cleaner hose has no air leaks in the hose. Check that the pump has no air leaks, in front of the pump. The water leaking from the backwash is a spider gasket issue, most likely. Open up the valve by removing the 6 screws on the lid, and prying up the cover. Is the pressure on the filter higher than normal? Does the filter backwash at full flow? Did you use the right kind of sand? #20 Silica Sand, labeled Pool Filter Sand. And did you add the correct amount of sand, for the tank?
Good morning. I just backwashes and rinsed my pump and when I went to put it back on filter, nothing is happening. The pump turns on, but no water is circulating through the filter and back into the pool. Not sure why, not the first time I’ve backwashed it. Thanks in advance for your help on this.
Lisa, the pump may have lost prime? Might need to be refilled with water, with a tight pump lid. You may have an easier start if you put the valve on recirculate, to bypass the filter. Then once it catches prime, shut off pump and switch valve to filter, and quickly turn back on.
Help!
I have 1 part in my filter that is a very small part it’s DE filter and whe. That small part gets clogged it shuts down my whole system. Is it possible to take it off so I can run my pump without having to take it all apart empty the water clean that small little part and then put it back together. When it gets clogged I lose pressure and my pump stops working. It is a small part with a screen that attaches to the top of the filter. Help help I’m losing chemicals and water by having to take it apart 3/4xs a day for my pump to work properly.
Hi Vicki, that part is known as the air relief strainer, and it’s designed to allow air in the filter to escape, without letting DE powder/dirt escape. If you remove it, you will have a small DE leak into the pool. I cannot think however, how that might be related to your pump pressure, as they are not related. I think it must be a coincidence. You likely have an air leak, in front of the pump impeller, a void that is drawing in air. Can be the pump lid o-ring, or the pipe coming into the pump most commonly, but also could be a leaky skimmer or main drain valve, or pipe connection in front of the pump. It could also be low water level, or a stuck skimmer weir.
Davy Marino, I thank you for your prompt response, In answer, I have never and would never ever attempt to move the handle without turning pump off. bY opening the valve are you saying to remove the bolts holding the multi port valve to the tank and go from there? Or have a serice come out and replace the multiport valve.i have no experience in the inner working of the valve. I am not familiar with the4 spider gasket. Again I thank you for your patience.
Hi Sam – I mean loosen the 6 bolts around the valve (don’t lose the nuts), and then use a small flathead to pry up the cover, and pull out the key assy (handle, cover, rotor). Then inspect the spider gasket, the rubber 5 or 6 spoked wagon-wheel looking gasket, it probably needs replacement. If you would rather not tackle that, you can call for a service company to come and do it. To stop backwash line leakage, you could plug up the backwash port with SP1022C threaded plug with o-ring. Just remove the backwash hose and hose adapter. This is a temporary measure and should not be permanent, but will stop the leaking until repair can be made.
Just installed a Krystal Clear Sand Filter Pump Model SF90110-1. The 6-way valve is not rotating. Not sure if it’s an installation issue or the pump itself.
Hi, are you pushing down on the handle first, and then rotating? Try opening the air bleeder valve on the tank, if there is one. Or try closing valves to/from pool, if you have them (or plug the lines). They do require some effort to turn, not super easy.
I have an intex sand filter. Since setting it up this year, when off the pressure gauge reads 10. Within 3-4 days it will be up to 12-13. I notice that the pressure coming out of the return line decreases to where you can barely feel the water coming back into the pool. I can turn the pump off and immediately back on and can feel some water coming out again. Backwashing helps but again, it will do this within 2-3 days. What is wrong?
Hi Kate, you can start with a Sand Filter Cleaner, or you can irrigate the sand bed with a garden hose, allowing it to overflow the tank (protect the pump motor from the water), or you can change the sand. If the sand is new, and this is your first time using the filter, it could be sand that is not graded properly, should be #20 Silica Sand, graded to 0.45-0.55mm in size, and labeled Pool Filter Sand.
My pool ran great the first 3 weeks. The tree droppings started . I kept dumping basket and scooping. Pool got slightly cloudy. I shocked. Then filter gauge would go high and jets slow. Back washed. Helped for couple days. Started again. Took filter apart and soaked with acid. Better but only lasted 2 days. Now i am bumping every 3 hours. It does come down some but back up quickly. Pool had cleared and now is slightly cloudy in deep end. Pool store said i have phosphates from trees. It’s a de filter. A few bubbles in pump basket but they are always there each year. Water level about 1/2.
It was last cleaned 4 days ago.
HI Bern, take the filter apart again and clean with 1 lb of TSP in a 5-gal bucket of warm water, and then recharge with DE, remembering that 1 lb of DE powder is 32 oz of dry measure, and not 16 oz of dry measure. Avoid using polymer Clarifiers, but SeaKlear natural clarifier or enzymes can be used.
We have a blog post called 50 causes of cloudy water, and there are a lot, but 80% or more of cloudy water problems are from either low chlorine or poor filter performance. With a Hayward Perflex DE filter, they can get gummed up, and since your acid wash only lasted 2 days (and would have removed mineral scale), let’s do a TSP wash, 1-cup in 5-gals of warm water, and then hose completely, followed by a full DE charge, remembering that 1-lb of DE powder is not 16 oz of dry measure, but actually 32 oz.
I have a Pentair Tagelus high rate sand filter. Just opening the pool. All 5 of the 6 positions on the multi port valve work, with the exception of the FILTER POSITION. When moving the control to filter, the prime is immediately lost, no water movement whatsoever and pressure jumps to min 40 psi and I immediately turn off power. The handle is no even movable until power is cut. Please help me. Pool owner for 37 years and never this problem.
Wow, that is an interesting problem. So it does not do this when the handle is on Recirculate? That would mean the lines to the pool are clear, downstream of the filter. if it only happens on Filter, but will Backwash and Rinse just fine… I would first open up the valve and inspect the spider gasket and the ports for any clog. The handle should never be moved while the pump is on. Something is clogged or in the wrong position. Not a pump problem, it is either the valve, or the filter.
H! My pool filter gauge shows low pressure when filtering. However pressure is fine while backwashing or rinsing, so I imagine air is getting in somewhere along the way between the skimmers, drain and the pump. Am I correct? And if so, is there a way to pinpoint where the leak us? Many thanks
Hi Gildas, air could be a cause of lower filter pressure, when you bleed the tank (assuming you have an air bleeder, or you can remove the pressure gauge), does the pressure rise back to normal? Or, is the water in the pump basket swirling more slowly? If so, it could be a clogged impeller, common this time of year. Another cause of low pressure could be problems within the multiport valve, a bad gasket or spring, allowing water to bypass back to the pool unfiltered.
I have a salt water pool with a water fall. After about 3 hours the water fall stops, and I have to backwash the DE Hayward filter to restart the water fall. This occurs 3-4 times a day. What is the best way to correct this issue-Should I clean the filter grids- if so how?
Or is there a better backwash technique that I should be using? Thanks
Mike, start with a deep cleaning of the filter grids, Remove them from the tank and hose them clean. For the best clean, soak them in DE Filter Grid Cleaner, or soak them once in TSP and warm water, then rinse and then soak in a 10% acid solution and rinse. Replace into tank and recharge with full charge of DE powder, remembering that 1 lb of DE powder is not 16 oz dry measure, but 32 oz.
Hi — I have a Hayward DE 4820 filter. Yesterday I noticed no flow from returns and low pressure. I checked skimmer baskets and pump basket and cleaned all but still no go. I then opened up the filter and it was caked with DE with tons of pollen and debris. I washed it off completely, reassembled and then started filter back up and added new DE media. The pressure is back to normal and other than a little bubbling for about 5-7 minutes from the return lines when the pump initially starts (which then fully resolves and doesn’t happen again for the day) I haven’t noticed any issues. I also tried feeling around for any blockage in impeller (Hayward SP23520VSP) and couldn’t feel or grab any debris. Anyway — could this have been a clog in the flex air relief assembly as that also had tons of gunk and DE caked onto it? From my reading that seems to be the only thing that could cause the gauge to register a low pressure and yet be fully fixed after cleaning off the filter assembly — as opposed to other issues that would occur before the pump etc. Thanks and sorry for the novel….
Hi HOwie, lower than normal pressure is always associated with an obstruction or clog Before the filter, like the pump basket, skimmer basket or impeller. It can also be from closed valves and clogged lines or even the dreaded collapsed Flex pvc pipe used for skimmers. It can also be a bad gauge, or a stuck gauge needle. In your case, low pressure could also be a case of low pump speed, with your VS pump. But it would not be caused by your filter being dirty, but it was a good thing to clean it anyway! 🙂
Thank you for all of your help ! This has been the year of pool nightmares . I had to buy a new Hayward pump, had to dump the new sand because I forgot to spread the fingers: got the fingers spread and new sand in and then had to buy a new Head for my Hayward XL . We put it all together and turned it on, but my back flush has no power at all .. it barely streams out . Any suggestions please ? Thank you
Monica – another one, same problem! I have heard various versions of this over the last few months. And I suspect that there may be some bad filter sand out there, not the right size, or the right cut, or not 100% silica, not sure just yet… What brand of sand did you use? Does it work normally on the Filter position, just not on backwash? How about Rinse position?
I used HTH brand, it says silica and .45 to.55 particle . It sounds normal on the filter cycle , though now I feel like I might “hear” something a little different than last year , but it’s likely my imagination from trying to figure this out . Rinse does the same thing and back flush – barely comes out . Rinse came out less than the back flush actually . Thank you for your help ! So frustrating and I’m not even sure about beginning chlorinating my water yet~ since I can’t back flush the yuck .
Second person I’ve talked to that told me HTH brand. The .45-.55 is correct, aka #20 silica sand. But bag labels can be wrong, they could have gotten a bad load of sand, and bagged it up incorrectly. Could be like masonry sand, or some other grade of sand for another purpose. These are bagged up in big sand factories, and well if some sand guy is ‘asleep at the wheel’, they could make mistakes, yeah… anyone else have problems with HTH pool filter sand? Or other brands too, the sand factory could provide bagged sand for many brands, perhaps.
why are we getting sand through the filter return into pool. We have replaced the sand made sure everything is connected ok but after backwashing and turning to filter water starts flowing clean then in a few minutes it spits sand back in pool with the water .
Please help we never had this to happen before
Could be too much sand was added during the sand change. If the sand continues to flow into the pool, there is a larger problem like a cracked lateral or standpipe, but if only after backwashing, it could be considered normal. You can do a “Rinse” cycle after backwashing, to rinse the pipes clean, before switching to filter position.
Hi, i have a Hayward varioflow Xl filter head on my sand filter (also Hayward) . Circulation, backwash, rinse modes all work fine, but in filtration mode after a few minutes, it looses “power” it doesn’t “pull” water thru the system. I can see in the view port of the pump that the water level has depleted to less than half. It’s as if the filter is not allowing the water to go thru., I changed the sand last year and there does not appear to be any leaks or air getting into the system .. any idea as why? All help is greatly appreciated
Thanks mark
If that’s not air getting into the system, or a pipe that is collapsing under vacuum suction, then it sounds like clogged and clumpy sand. I would try a Sand Filter Cleaner and also you can open up the filter and use a garden hose as an irrigation tool, to flush out dirt deep in the sand, and letting it flow over the top of the filter (shield the pump motor from water). I’m taking a poll – what brand of sand did you use, last year, if you remember? I’m wondering if there was a run of bad pool filter sand in the last 12 months….
I replaced all of the sand in my Hayward S180T932STL filter with Vari Flo XL valve. I backwashed and rinsed as per directions when replacing the sand and the water came out of the backwash outlet with a lot of pressure and volume. I then set the valve to filter, and it ran fine on low speed. When I switched to high speed(it’s a 2 speed pump) water starts to run,not drip from the backwash outlet. I tried back washing again and this time just a small volume of water with little pressure was coming out of the back wash outlet even on high speed. So I replaced the key assembly for the vale, cleaned and lubed all of the O-rings, reassembled the valve housing and the problem still occurs…water runs out of the back wash when the pump is set to filter at high speed, and back washing at high speed has little pressure and volume. What else can I try other than buying an entire new Vari Flo valve?
Hi Kevin, sounds rough, sorry. You can run on recirculate and should continue to filter as much as you can until you figure this out. I’m also wondering about the sand, if maybe there’s a lot of dust on the bottom, around the laterals, affecting the backwash? You could try a Sand Filter Cleaner or you can use a hose to irrigate the sand bed for an hour, pushing a strong garden hose pressure deep into the sand bed, and letting the tank overflow the dirt/dust (shield pump to keep motor dry). I’m hearing lots of similar complaints this year of sand changes and water is not flowing normally. Is your filter pressure higher than before the sand change? What brand of Pool Filter Sand did you use?
I threw out the 3 bags the sand came in earlier this spring, but I’m stopping by the pool supply store tomorrow(6-12) and will ask what brand of filter sand they were selling, and I’ll post it here. I also plan tomorrow to run a garden hose into the filter’s sand as you suggested and will let you know if that helped.
It’s seems the water is returning to my pool and bypassing the sand. I don’t know what to do. I put a sheer piece of panty hose over the incoming water valve and all the dirt and grass I’m vacuuming are getting caught on that. It seems the sand is not filtering the water? Any thoughts?
Sand filters are known to pass very small debris, but if you are seeing grass clippings and such come thru that could indicate a problem. The problem could be in the filter, but often times it is a multiport valve problem, and not a problem with the filter itself. Nice trick, to use the pantyhose under the eyeball lock ring, there is a product we have called Slime Bag, which attaches to a wall return, and is a thick filter fabric, and acts like a secondary filter. So, it’s normal for fine dust to pass thru a sand filter, using a Clarifier can help, or a Slime Bag on occassion, or using Sand Filter Cleaner or new filter sand are also helpful. However, there are times when something is allowing water to return directly to the pool, without being filtered, or when the filter is allowing larger particles to pass through. Read More: https://blog.intheswim.com/bypass-the-hidden-pool-filter-problem/
Hello. I have a hayward DE perflex ec65 filter for inground pool; ~25k gallons. I had an issue with algae when I opened, shocked it and it all cleared up. I started getting algae on the sides again, scrubbed the walls, shocked it and everything was fine. But, on a daily basis I wasn’t getting any chlorine reading. Figured it was a lock, so bought some hypo cal and shocked per some directions for clearing the chlorine lock. I did not dilute it with water first, rather scattered across the pool, all 9 bags. I let it run for 24 hours, then did a whole backwash and added 5 pounds of DE. Well, I went to regenerate and shut the pump off, opened the air vent valve, bumped handle, shut air vent and when I went back to turn the pump on, I noticed alot of brownish dirt all around the 2 skimmers on the floor of the pool in the deep end. I did vaccuum it up, but on a whim I checked the filter basket and there was like white clumps, and I am not sure if was DE or what. Any ideas? Thank you 🙂
I have seen some weird colors and clumpy things with pools, and who knows what this gunk is sometimes?!? Some sort of white slime, could be an admixture of shock residue, and whatever material was causing chlorine lock, unsure. But glad you went for it with the super shock of 9 lbs – good job, man! Sometimes that is all a pool needs, when you can’t change the water, which is also needed at times. Fresh water is much more manageable than ‘aged water’.
Thank you so much for you advice Davy! I used a drain king like you suggested and that did it! Out popped some acorns and now my pump is fully priming. Thabk you so much again!
I have an inground with 10,000 gallons. I get good suction from the bottom drain but zero from my skimmer. I changed all pump fittings to address any possible air leaks, used the drain king to run water through and it seems to be running strong. However, no matter what still no suction from the skimmer line. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
THomas, it could still be a clog, did you pressurize with the Drain King, from the pump, back toward the skimmer? It can be helpful to use a plug or a tennis ball in the skimmer, hold it firm for the count of 3 then release. Repeat. This builds up pressure in the line to create more pressure, kind of like a water hammer effect. It could be a clog of leaves and twigs, or, could be a winterization plug, or piece of plastic of just the right size, to clog the 90 fitting directly below the skimmer. Or, … it could a collapsed skimmer line, if your pool is 30+ yrs old inground guinite, they may have used flex pipe for the skimmer line, which over time, and placing tablets in the skimmer, causes the skimmer pipe to shrink inside (like plaque in arteries), and eventually weaken and crimp. see this post:
https://blog.intheswim.com/sylvan-pool-flex-pipe-skimmer-repair/
Hi Tom, OK, now let’s assume it still is a clog, you can see some water pressure come thru, that’s good. The next logical step might be to try and snake the drain with a plumbers snake, or other thin strong cable, and see how far you can get it past the first 90, in the bottom of the skimmer. IF you can only get it a very short distance past the 90; you have either hit the clog, or a collapsed line, (which also clogs, because of the reduced passageway). If you have just 3 feet of concrete behind the skimmer, or less? If this continues, it may be worth exploratory digging, tunneling under the deck, to remove about a yard of soil (that’s several hours of digging), to expose the pipe. If you see ribbed Flex pipe, I’d bet that is the issue, but consult the other blog post first, on the Sylvan pool with collapse line. Vinyl builders have done it too, used Flex PVC pipe instead of rigid pipe. But first, try to snake the line, and hopefully clear the clog, or you could get a snake camera down into the skimmer, maybe you can rent them? There are those that attach to iphone, but of course must be waterproof.
Hi,
My pressure is low and it looks like it’s because my pump won’t prime fully. I cleaned the baskets, cleaned tbe impeller, have adequate water. and checked for suction leaks but it still only fills half way. This happens when filtering or recirculating. I can see water flowing into the pump but it still won’t completely fill and priming doesn’t help.
Hi John, if pressure is lower than normal, it could be all those things, clogged impeller or pump basket, air leak in front of the pump, or a very dirty filter. Since it happens while the valve is on Filter AND while the MPV is on Recirculate position, this means a dirty filter is not to blame, but must be something before the impeller. Be sure the lid o-ring is on the pump, and lubed and the pump is very tight. The pipe that goes into the pump, is the most common source for air leaks, and can be fixed with Epoxy pool putty, or by replacing the fitting, with new Thread Sealant. It could also be a clog in the pipe, or even a collapsed Flex PVC pipe used on the skimmer or main drain pipe. You can use a Drain King (avail. at hardware store), and use it to blow water back to the pool, to clear out potential clogs and can also be used from the skimmer to the pump, and plug the pump intake, or close the filter valve, to pressurize the suction manifold and pump basket, to check for air leaks.
Hi there!
Everything seemed to be working fine on my system until I plugged in the vacuum to clean out a chunk of debris – leaves, pine needles, tree droppings after a storm yesterday.
I cleared out the skimmer basket and strainer basket which had debris as well. The filters are new this year and just cleaned last weekend.
Switched back on the pump and the strainer only filled halfway, the salt cell is moving at half speed and there is no output coming from the jets in the 30k gallon pool.
Any guesses on how to fix the water pressure? I shocked it as well, so need the circulation.
My guess is pine needles clogging your impeller – https://blog.intheswim.com/how-to-clear-a-clogged-pool-pump-impeller/
just put in new filter. The psi increased from an average of 11 up to 20 with new filter in. But the suction from skimmer basket has decreased. Any suggestions?
Interesting, your old filter must have been so ‘porous’ that the water was able to flow thru much faster. That would be normal I guess. Each time you clean a filter cartridge, the fibers separate a little bit, allowing dirt (and higher flow rates) to pass thru more easily. So now you have slower flow, but better filtration. Assuming that nothing else is at play… if you run the filter without the cartridge, you should see the pressure drop to a very low level.
I have a Hayward DE filter, Inground pool & every 20-30 minutes the jets go off or really low flow. Backwash, restart, it’s fine, 30 minutes later same thing. When it does this, pressure appears to rise until I backwash again. Pool water is clear tho. Never had this happen like this & that often. Any idea on what the problem is? Skimmer & filter baskets aren’t full.
Hi, a Hayward Perflex filter? I would suggest that the nest assy be removed, and hosed very well, and then cleaned with a DE filter cleaner, soaking in a bucket. You can also soak in a TSP / Hot Water mix to remove oils, followed by soaking in a 10% acid solution to remove scale, then rinsing well, reassemble the filter and charge with DE powder.
Hi, thanks for the reply. Unsure if it was perflex filter but wanted to let you know my father was planning to clean out the filter assembly this weekend & took apart the filter yesterday & the filter grid was Really dirty he said. It was brand new last year so he was surprised it got that dirty. But he hosed it down & cleaned it & now the pool is running top notch. The jets are super powerful & We had it running for over 5hrs today with out the jets stopping or the pressure rising. Thanks for getting back to me. I’m so happy it wasn’t something major.
Hi Davey, I have a Hayward filter it backwashes great but won’t rinse and on filter there’s not much return water uggh any ideas?
hello, is this a new filter? Is the plumbing attached correctly? The pipe or hose from the pump, is attached to the valve port labeled PUMP?
Hi Davy, thanks for your blog and service. It’s so helpful. I got an above ground pool with an Intex 1000 GPH Filter Pump and skimmer last week. I’ve been using chlorine in a floater, as well. So far, the pool water is still clear. But dirt (twigs, leaves, etc) have piled up on the bottom of it. And the skimmer does not seem to be attracting any of it into the bucket.
Bubbly water is coming out of the output nicely. But I don’t see much suction or pressure going to the skimmer. (When I checked the filter, it did have dirt and some sediment in it, so I guess it is working a little bit.)
Should there be more “obvious” pressure towards the skimmer? Do I need a vaccuum to get out the dirt and leaves on the floor? Or is everything actually OK?
Thanks!
Jeff, you will need to remove the leaves and debris manually, they won’t jump-up and go into the skimmer. For Intex pools, you can vacuum with a Leaf Gulper, attached to a garden hose, or use a Leaf Rake skimmer net to scoop debris from the floor, or use a battery operated handheld vacuum.
I’ve recently installed a CrystalWater 570-0425 Cartridge filter system that replaced my old Hayward Sand filter (purchased from InTheSwim). Problem is, when the pump shuts off for the night, it seems to backflush through the pump and blows the lid off the skimmer. When I restart the pump, I assume it’s gathered considerable air, so I open the MRA and allow the air out. I can’t do that every day. Why is it backflushing through the pump? (Pump is a Hayward 1.5hp superpump) Filter and pump are above the water (in-ground pool).
Hi Craig, there is an air leak on the system, probably the pipe that comes into the pump, or the pump lid, something before the impeller is drawing in air, which builds up to cause this issue. Find that air leak and seal it up, and you will fix the issue. Read More: https://blog.intheswim.com/air-in-pool-pump-or-bubbles-in-the-pool/
Hi,
I have a 20,000 gallon salt water pool, and a Hayward C3030 cartridge system. I have had the pool for 5 years and have had no problems.
After I opened the pool a month ago, and having cleaned the cartridge filters first, I am finding that there is a lot of dirt ending up on the bottom of the pool after the 8 hour pump cycle. I vacuum it up, and the dirt comes back in a day or so. My filters are not old, and they were properly cleaned. What am I doing wrong? Thank you for your help!!
Hi John, it might be time to replace those cartridges. 5-years would be about the lifespan, for a C3030, on a 20K pool. Each cleaning separates the fibers more, making it easy for fine silt to pass thru. They say… replace your cartridges after 12-15 cleanings, or every 3-5 years. It might be time!
Hi i am having some issues that i cant seem to figure out.
I have a DE Hayward Filter. the pools is around 5000 Gallons of Water. When i opened my pool this year is was more green than normal.
I shocked the pool Quite a bit. the water is not dark green anymore but more of a dark teal now. It has been two days.
I have noticed that the pool filter is not returning much water to the pool. when i start the filter it will return the water at a good rate. after about 10 to 15 min sometimes 30 it seems to come to a CRAWL. I have back washed and done a full cleaning by taking the fingers out and spraying them down. this has been done twice.
I do not see any water leaks around the pool or from the filter either.
Hi Wayne, you probably need to soak the fingers in a DE pool Filter cleaner, or soak in TSP, and then soak in a 10% muriatic acid solution. Then add the required amount of DE powder, remembering that one pound of DE powder is 32 oz dry measure (not 16 oz).
I’m hzvinvcz similar situation to Wayne. I am going to try soak I no my DE filter’s baffles. I read elsewhere that vinegar may be used also. Is that as effective?
Secondly, pool is on beach and takes on sand. Lower drain is always closed (since I bought the house). I’m wondering id I’m getting sand into the filter baffles. There was about 2-3 inches of sand in filter basket and z little near impeller. Pump basket rarely seems to fill completely with water. I know one skimmer seemed to have gotten impacted with sand. Could I have a clog or would the sand generally continue to flow or be sucked through pipes to pump, thus alleviating a sand clog?
Pump starts out, then within a few minutes suction dies down and water return is low.
Could I have a leak or crack in a below ground line (flexible hose)?
Are you in Rehoboth Beach, DE? I’m staying at the Sand Castle this weekend, I could have a look! Sand won’t easily clog a line, But mixed with other debris I suppose it could partially clog a line. Your pipes could be partially collapsed, if Flex PVC was used. It could also be just clogged DE grids, clogged with grease/oil or with scale. Vinegar can be used full strength, to help dissolve scale, as it is a mild acid.
I have a Hayward EC40 DE filter. When i start it up she has great flow and after a few minutes i have no suction and no output. I have done everything i know to do. PLEASE HELP!
Hi Corrine, that means that the fingers are either clogged with grease/oil or with scale, or both. Time to open up the filter, by removing all those little bolts, and then spray clean the fingers well, and then soak in a DE Filter Cleaner product, or first soak in a 10% muriatic acid solution, rinse and then soak in a TSP solution (1 lb per 5 gals of hot water), rinse again well, and reinstall with the correct amount of DE – remembering that 1 lb of DE powder is not 16 oz dry measure, but 32 oz dry measure.
Hi, I have a Bluetorrent cartridge filter PCR 120. My pool was fine last summer. After opening the pool this spring it has been super cloudy. After shocking 3 times, using clarifier I finally saw a YouTube video which said to try floculant. I used floculant which sent all the sediment to the bottom. My problem is, every time I vacuum, it sucks it up and shoots it right back into the pool through the return and I’m back where I started. I even bought a new cartridge with no luck. Please help I’m at my wits end!
Flocculent must be vacuumed to WASTE. Since you have a cartridge filter, that is hard to do, unless you modify the plumbing, between the pump and filter, or after the filter (and remove the cartridge), or just remove the filter lid and cartridge and let the tank overflow – but not a good idea if it will pour water onto the pump motor. See this post: https://blog.intheswim.com/vacuuming-to-waste-a-how-to/
Thank you, thank you! This worked! But I think I’m going to start saving for a sand filter.
We opened our pool on Sunday. We have a Hayward perflex de pump. We are continuing to have issues with the pressure rising above 10 psi after about 20 min. We have replaced the o ring, thoroughly soaked and cleaned the filter and backwashed several times. Any suggestions? Pool is still cloudy because the pump has not been consistently running well.
Hi Kevin, are you using enough DE powder? Many don’t realize that 1 lb of DE powder is not 16 oz dry measure, but 32 oz dry measure. When this issue you are having happens – normally the cure is to remove the net assembly and soak the ‘fingers’ in a DE filter cleaner, or in lieu of Filter Cleaner, first soaking (in a 5-gal bucket filled to the very top) in a TSP solution, followed by rinsing and soaking in a 10% acid solution. Another issue could be if the pump was recently upsized, or replaced with a larger flow pump, which can cause filter problems.
Hello
I’m new at this pool stuffs learning everyday
My question is this , when I put my pump to filter water comes out of the returners strong but after 30 minutes or so it dies sometimes I don’t even see nothing coming out and when I put the system on recirculate works strong all the time none stop
I had clean the filter plenty of times already backwash etc idk what else to do and why in the filter system stops working properly after a while being on
Hi Luis, the filter is clogged up with oils and scale. Try a Pool Filter Cleaner, we have one made for Sand Filters, that people love. If that does not improve your filter cycle length, then replace the filter sand.
We just installed our pool this weekend. We have a Hayward sand filter and the return hose keeps spitting off every time we turn the filter on. We checked for air and that due by seem to be the problem. What can we do to make the hose stay put?
Hi Jess, if you have the flexible filter hose, they are held in place with stainless steel radiator hose clamps. #20 is the size, we have them, or you can find them at any home/hardware store. See item A1446, on this page: https://www.intheswim.com/p/filter-hoses-clamp
I have a Haywood filter I tried to put a new pressure gauge on but won’t take tried to put pipe tape on but the threads I think Are striped .
Not sure what my options are ?
Hi Norm, be sure that the gauge has only 3-4 wraps of Teflon tape, more than that will make it too fat. If it is stripped, the threads can be recut easily with a tap, a #20 Tap specifically, for 1/4″ NPT threads. Otherwise, you’re looking at a new valve. The tap should cost much less.
The label on the Hayward Sand Filter faded, so I purchased a new one. But there seems to be 2 ways that it could potentially fit. How can I ensure I am putting it on with the correct settings aligning with the label?
I think you will need to experiment, to see which setting does what, and then you will know.
I also changed the sand in my Hayward 180-T filter and tried to start it up. The filter will recycle and return into the pool, but when I set it to Filter, I feel a slight movement at the return in the pool, but no water is returning into the pool. What do you suggest?
May be too much sand? It was labeled Pool Filter Sand, right? Pressure and flow will naturally be greater when on the Recirculate setting, as opposed to the filter setting
Hi Davy – I purchased the sand from a pool store – 150lbs. Should we open and take some of the sand out? When we did replace the sand, should we have filled the tank to the top with water before closing?
Take some out if you added too much sand, yes. No need to fill the tank with water.
I just purchased a multi valve vari flo sp714t. After installed, the backwash and rinse setting does not work. No water is coming out when set to backwash and the same thing for rinse. when on filter setting, the gauge was reading 15 psi. When setting is to waste, water does come out like it is supposed to. Just no water comes out for backwash and rinse cycle. The handle moves freely no difficulty at all
Hi Teresa, is it plumbed correctly? Is the pipe from the pump connected to the port labeled PUMP?
i left my pressure gauge on all winter went to start up and its not reading any pressure any thoughts
Might be clogged,or stuck. Unscrew and water should blow out freely when the pump is running. Flick it with your fingernail on the dial, to see if the needle is stuck. IF still nothing, replace the gauge, they are cheap instruments.
I have a Hayward pool filter put a new pump on last summer trying open my pool this year ,I have pressure going in but not coming out . I have pressure when I backwash and in waste
Hi James, are there any valves on the return side that need to be open? Are all of the plugs out of the pool wall? Is the pressure gauge higher than normal? This would indicated an obstruction or blockage after the filter. Pressure lower than normal indicates obstruction before the filter, like the pump impeller.
Recently had a company install a new Hayward super pump. There is 0 flow. Verified both the lines from skimmer baskets are not clogged. Opened and inspected diverter valve to ensure there are no obstructions. Pump is running, nada. Zero flow. Lost
Matt, if it is not a clog, I would suspect an air leak. The pump will rather suck air than water – it is the path of least resistance. The air leak may be around the pump lid, is the oring clean and lubed? It can also be on the pipe that comes into the pump (did they used thread sealant?). Or it could be one of the suction side valves, leaking air. More info here: https://blog.intheswim.com/air-in-pool-pump-or-bubbles-in-the-pool/
My sand filter is losing water pressure/flow. I will turn the pump on and everything is working as it should, good pressure/flow. After it runs for several hours the gauge still reads normal pressure(pressure gauge is brand new) but the suction going into the pump and the return going back to the pool has slowed greatly. If I turn it off and backwash everything works for a few hours and then the same thing happens. Sand was put in last year. What could be my problem?
Try a Sand Filter Cleaner chemical, the filter sand is likely gummed up with gummy gunk.
Attempted Pool opening today. Hayward salt system DE filter. Plugs are out, eyeballs in, gizmo out, basket in. Plugs lubed and replaced in equipment. Pump primed and flowing nicely. NO RETURN to jets??!! Tested skimmer on waste and flowed, back to filter, not returning to pool. Aggravated.
Test the multiport valve on the Recirculate setting, if water flows to the pool, you know the line is good to the pool, and the problem is inside the filter, or the valve. If the problem also exists on Recirculate, then the return line may be clogged with something, or a valve is closed maybe? Might have to open up the filter, and the multiport to look inside.
Had a new Hayward C4030 cartridge filter installed last November. Start up pressure was 20 PSI and has only risen to 21 PSI over the past 6 months. No one has been in the pool since it was installed as it’s been too cold. Pool is well maintained and water is sparkling clean. Is there any reason to clean it? Can I just wait till it rises 7 to 8 PSI before cleaning? I was told to clean regularly.
That’s a good filter, very oversized, which is paying you back dividends. No need to clean it, unless and until pressure rises, at least a few more psi. Maybe by November?
We have a Hayward Power-Flo Matrix Pump. It is sucking and blowing fine, but the needle on the gauge isn’t moving. Suggestions?
If the flow rate seems normal, the skimmer and pumps swirling water and the returns pushing it back in fairly strong, then the first suspicion is the gauge is clogged, or the gauge is broken. But, is the valve on recirculate or waste? Then there would be no tank pressure. Is there even sand in the tank (or cartridge), bro? Or is the tank empty? (sorry, I have to ask). Did you put the eyeball fittings in the wall returns? Is it normally a higher pressure?
I have a intex sand filter. Last year had a problem with water flow on backwash and a jump in pressure on gauge. so i cleaned out sand, cleaned out all pieces, checked hoses and rubber rings. checked for blockage pretty much everywhere. didn’t fix anything. ran it the rest of the season. This year same problem with backwash. but now have lost water flow into pool and pressure gauge is up in yellow just below red 30psi. again checked everywhere i can think of and still no fix. any suggestions? or just get a new filter? thanks
Gloria, these small sand filters need new filter sand almost every season, so that would be my first guess, replace the sand. Then, I would advise using our liquid Sand Filter Cleaner before every backwash.
If we don’t have a skimmer basket, how do we use the filter cleaner for the sand filter?
Hi, You can put Filter Cleaner directly into the pump basket, or if you don’t have a pump basket, you can use a funnel and hose (beer bong, lol), to put it into the wall outlet, the suction line that leads to the pump. And then shut the pump off right away. The idea with Sand FIlter Cleaner, is to add it on backwash, and then shut off the pump before the chemical backwashes out of the filter tank.
I have a new sand filter.. while I am filling the pool my basket on my pump is overflowing and when I turn the filter on I am getting no pressure whatsoever..
Sounds like the pump lid is not tight? Or maybe is missing the pump lid o-ring?
My 10″ sand filter reads 0-2lbs of pressure when in filter mode, I’ve back washed then rinsed number of times now, flow of water seems great. Already checked pressure gauge,pump is new. I have no other issues just wondering if my filter is working
Some filters operate at low pressure. Low pressure is actually a good thing. But if you normally operate at 10 psi (clean), then to find it at 2 psi would be a problem, this would usually indicate an obstruction before the impeller, such as a clogged impeller, pump basket or skimmer basket, or clog in the pipes, or closed valves… But in your case, if the water volume is good, and you have not known higher pressure in the past, then no problem. I have seen filter sytems running from 3 psi to 30 psi, they are all different. Most systems are designed for a normal, clean pressure of around 10 psi, but system changes over time can change that. Lower pressure is best! As long as it’s not! 🙂
I have a new Hawyward Sand filter. When it was installed the setting was left on “CLOSED” for a whole week while the pump was running. When noticed, it was immediately changed to “filtration” but it then started to spit out dirty water into pool. The filter/pump seemed to working as it comes into skimmer and pool. I have added many chemicals on 2 occasions this week (18th and 20th) but it is still very cloudy. What shall I do? How do I know it is working properly? help please
If you have normal filter pressure, and the no air bubbles coming into the pool, and no sand or dirt coming into the pool, and no funny noises from the pump… you are probably OK :-). Just keep running the filter 24/7 for now, and use a Clarifier to help out, per label dose. Keep the chlorine high and the pH low, it will clear…
I have a 2year old ec50ac de filter that I cant get the pressure down below 20lb with no circulation. I cleaned the fingers with filter cleaner,followed by an acid cleaning.that didn’t help. I removed the filter and put the winter by-pass pipe in ,and the pressure in the pool was fine. I hope you have a fix for me. nine grandkids are depending on us
Hello Randall, has the pump been upsized in the past? EC50 is best with about 40-60 gpm. Does the filter ‘Bump’ normally, with the bump handle? Are you using 5 lbs of DE powder? Have you tried any new chemicals this year like Clarifiers that may have clogged up the ‘fingers’?
hi davy,no sir all I did was reinstall the filter (2 unions) and turned it on. put 5lb of de in skimmer. the bump handel works normally.doesn’t seem to matter if it has de or not pressure still runs 20-22lbs same pump as last year 1hp
Hi Randall, the gauge could be stuck or broken, that will happen every 5-10 years. Not the cause of no water flow, but another issue.
Hi,I just purchased a home with an already set up above ground pool. When I run the filter plenty of water comes out of the return and stays that way for several minutes, but when I come back in a few hours it seems to have slowed dramatically. I backwashed it for just about 30 seconds and the water in the bulb looks pretty clear now, but this problem is still persisting. Any suggestions?
Hi Jack, if this is a sand filter, I would recommend changing the sand. Sand filters of small size (18″ or less), usually need new sand every 1-3 seasons, just because there is very little of it, and it gets gunked up faster. Also for small sand filters, regular use of our Sand Filter Cleaner, is loved by many abg pool owners, I have read in the reviews. For other types of filters too, DE and Cartridge, when having the symptom you describe, it usually means the filter is clogged up with scale or oily substances.
I would appreciate your help. I purchase a number of things on line from in the swim. I can’t really open the orange valve on the skimmer return all the way, but the man drain valve is opening and closing fine. I just tried to open my pool and the skimmer on the side is not drawing water and the pressure psi on my Hayward sand filter is extremely high at 60. I’m not sure why the skimmer valve won’t open and the pressure is so high. I even tried to backwash and that did nothing, as this problem is not related to the sand being clogged, as I just opened the pool. This has never happened before. I would really appreciate some help with this. Thank you.
Hi Gary, 60 psi is above the safe working pressure of a pool filter, so shut it off – does the gauge go back to zero? If not, 60 psi may be incorrect. Are the plugs removed from the wall returns, and are return side valves open? The orange handled skimmer valve, do not force it too much, the handle can break off. When you close the main drain valve, does the skimmer suction increase? The skimmer valve may be clogged, if so, a snake or other flexible wand could help. Drain King is a product that is easy to use, affordable for cleaning out skimmer line clogs and clogged valves. Find at Home/Hardware stores, or buy online.
So I had a broken key on my variflo valve. I bought whole new assembly and replaced in within a few minutes.Brand new gaskets and all. Everything was running good. Pool was clear. I noticed a small drip coming from one of my glued pipes. Went to Lowe’s and bought new PVC and fittings. Came home and replaced all piping from sand filter to motor and chlorinated. Ran in filter mode over night. Woke up to small amounts of sand in bottom of pool below returns. Assuming broken lateral or stand pipe(are you kidding at this point).Removed all sand from filter and replaced with brand new lateral/standpipe assembly along with 300lbs. brand new filter sand. Upon inspection could not find “any” issues with old lateral/ standpipe assembly. Got everything back together and turned key to backwash for 3 minutes after sand replacement as instructed.PSI gauge reads “zero” in backwash mode and is only coming out at what looks like half flo. Turned key to filter to check that out. Huge mistake OMG it blew sand all over the pool but PSI within normal range at 8lbs. I’ve checked impeller on motor. No blockage and spine freely. Skimmer baskets are clear from debri and obviously no blockage in brand new plumbing. No air leaks that I can find. New gaskets with Magic lube were also put on everything. I’m at a loss and frustrated at this point. How do I fix this!?!?!? Main issues being no PSI during waste and sand blowing back into the pool.Help would be much appreciated!
Wow, when it rains it pours. Backing up to the key replacement. Any reason to think it may be the incorrect key? For a different valve? It’s a top mount valve? The standpipe from the laterals should be sitting on the bottom of the tank and centered, so that it extends up inside of the bottom of the valve, by about 3/4″. There is an o-ring on the bottom of the valve that seals up to the standpipe, to keep sand out of the valve. It’s not uncommon to find a tablespoon of sand, directly below the returns, after backwashing or after changing sand. But more than that, if it’s cups of sand, there must be a broken lateral, broken standpipe, or standpipe not sealing into valve. Unless you happened to spill sand into the standpipe while adding it to the filter, that would deposit it back into the pool. Keep filtering the water if you can, so things don’t go south as you figure this out – and raise the chlorine level a bit too.
Hi
So it seems like my cartridges are not allowing proper water flow. We cleaned them with a water hose and the gauge to show the pressure is not reflecting that they are clean. The pool is brand new and we only used it a season. I need to know if they have to be replace or can I get them cleaned another way.
If hosing does not help restore lower filter pressure and higher flow, you could try a filter cleaner, which removes oils and scale that can clog a cartridge. We sell a cartridge cleaner of course, we have a spray-on, rinse off type and a type that you soak the cartridges in the solution, then rinse. Or you can use TSP as a degreaser and use a mild acid solution for a descaler. That should help somewhat, but if the filter clogs up again very rapidly, it just needs to be replaced. It’s good to have two cartridges on hand anyway, to be able to soak and allow them to dry fully, while alternating with the other cart.
Hi, I have the Hayward sp0714t and until a few days ago flow has been great. Now, I turn on the pump and and it flows for about 10 seconds then goes to a trickle (as observed by the flow meter on my salt clorinator). Thinking it was just dirty, set it to backwash and it backwashes with no problem for 15+ min. Then did a rinse for 3 min with no flow issues. Turn to filter and same thing after 10 seconds, thinking it was maybe the sand, I put it in recirculate and was only given 10 seconds of flow. I would appreciate any thoughts to this.
Thanks.
Kevin, OK so flow is good on backwash and rinse, but only flows for 10 seconds on filter and recirculate. That leads me to believe that there is a partial obstruction. You should also see high pressure on the filter if this was the case. The obstuction could be inside the hayward sand filter tank or inside the multiport SP0714 valve, or it could be in the return valve or pipe or hose, or at the wall fitting. If you have a valve on the return line (not sure what type of pool you have), there may be a problem there. Sometimes it is a broken part, a piece of plastic. When the water flows to a trickle, if pressure is NOT high on the filter, then look for an obstruction before the impeller. Is the suction hose crimped or collapsed? Or an air leak on the system?
Hi, so we changed the sand in our filter this season, we seem to be getting sand blown back in the pool after backwashing, we just recently opened the pool, first time changing the sand so not sure if there is a certain amount I’m suspension that ends up in the pool. We didn’t remove the filter lateral at all. I seen about doing a rinse cycle that may help. Any information would be greatly appreciated
Hi Amanda, the Rinse cycle is used after backwashing, to clean out the tank of residual dust, so you won’t get a poof of dust into the pool, after backwashing. If you used too much sand, and it’s tempting to add a little extra, that can blow back into the pool. Tanks are filled about 2/3 full, to allow for what’s called freeboard. But all tanks require a different amount of sand, so you should check the info, and try to adhere to the amount listed. If you continue to get sand in the pool, all the time, and the sand level is pretty close to correct, then there may be an issue with a broken lateral. BTW, sand will show up directly below the returns only. Silty sand dust, will float around and coat the entire pool. OFten times it looks like sand, but is really dust. Dust will ‘poof’ when you hit it with a brush, but sand grains will just roll around.
My Hayward sand filter is getting air bubbles that you can see in the pump basket. The pressure reads fine, but when I shut it off to backwash, it made a loud swooshing noise and all the water was sucked out of the filter and there was so much pressure that it blew the skimmer lid off, along with a giant hush of water. Also, the bottom filter shot water up to the surface. Any idea what could be going on?
Yes, it’s an air leak into the pump. The most common areas are the pipe that threads into the front of the pump, or the pump lid o-ring (clean and lubed), or just a loose pump lid, or the drain plugs on the pump. It can only come from before the impeller. Find the air leak and fix, and that issue will stop.
I am getting air into my filter. Great suction at the skimmer, good pump pressure and no air or bubbles in pump skimmer. Just replaces skimmer basket o ring and pump drain plug o ring. Could dirty filter sand be the issue? I noticed opening my pool this year the pool was far dirtier than last year with a lot more debris.
Hi Trisha, there will always be a little bit of air in the filter. If the air is not pushing back into the pool, and bubbling out of the returns, I would say that all is normal and fine. No worries. The most common sources of an air leak are the pipe that threads into the front of the pump, the pump lid and the pump drain plug, and less common, the valves or pipe fittings in front of the pump.
Hello, I have a hayward DE filter on my above ground pool, same set up for years…. now filter will run great, strong with the normal psi….. then in about an hour pressure will go about 8psi and water flow seems to completely stop…. have replaced everything before the intake (hose,clamps, valve, teflon tape and lube where appropriate, have cleaned the filter and added the required de lbs……..at with end…thanks Chris
Hi Chris, the Hayward Perflex filter needs to be dissasembled and cleaned, and have the fingers soaked every few years, for best results. Remove all the bolts and pull out the ‘Filter Nest’, and hose off completely, spraying between the top and bottom plates, and making sure the assembly is tight. If loose, there may be DE powder between the plates, which can get inside of the tubes. Then, soak the Nest Assy in a bucket with Filter Cleaner chemical, to remove oils and scale. Or, in place of FIlter cleaner, first soak in a solution of TSP, followed by a mild acid solution soak. Rinse fully and reinstall with a full charge of DE powder.
Just bought a hydro tool sand pump everything is correct when I put it on backwash no water is coming out I even set it on filtration still no water
Hi Amy, are the hoses connected correctly to the filter valve? The port labeled PUMP should connect to the hose from the Pump. Second, did you fill with sand labeled Pool Filter Sand on the bag? Third, the impeller on the pump could possibly be jammed with debris, as there is no strainer basket on these pumps. Fourth, are there any valves in front of the system that are closed, or are there plugs in the pool that need to be removed? Here’s a link to the owner’s manual:
Hi! We have Hayward DE filter. It’s only 2 years old. We are good about cleaning it. After backwashing and running the filter, it always looks like DE is settling on the bottom of the pool. That’s the whole reason why we bought a new filter. We have good pressure and circulation though. Please help
Hi Cindy, if you have a multiport valve to backwash with, after backwashing, use the Rinse setting for 15 seconds, to clear out any residual DE powder. If that does not help the issue, then there must be a DE leak in the filter, which can come from many areas, allowing DE to leak back into the pool.
(1) Too much DE powder added
(2) Tear in the fabric of the Grid
(3) Crack in the top manifold, or missing air relief strainer
(4) Missing or damaged o-ring on top of the standpipe
Hello I am having a issue I have never run into before. I am having a issues with water flow. When I backwash, waste, rinse ,The water is flowing strong and normal. But When I put it on filter it slows down tremendously. I have recirculated a couple times. Also skimmer basket and basket at the pump are cleaned out. I have a sand filter. The pump and multiport are almost brand new changed at the begging of last season.
Hi Daniel, since the pump and valve are new, I want to ask two questions 1. Is the pump too big for the filter, or is it the same size and type that was used before? 2. Is the valve plumbed correctly, with the pipe from the pump connected to the valve port labeled PUMP? Third question, are all of the plugs out of the wall returns? Are any return side valves partially closed? Could there be a clog or foreign object stuck in the return line? (if recirculate works well, that rules these two out) If none of that pans out, I would look at the filter sand, try a Filter Sand cleaner first, and possibly change the filter sand, which could be clogged with oily gunk, or calcium scale. Also, when the flow slows on filter, the tank pressure (psi) rises, right? This indicates higher resistance, like a clog or bad sand.
I have a Hayward C2030 filter for a inground pool. I noticed 2 issues after opening my pool a few days ago. 1st I notice the pressure gauge on 20 PSI. it normally at about 14 psi in the beginning of the season and takes about 2 months to reach 20 psi. So I decided to clean the filters a second time, when I drained the filter tank I noticed a small pin hole on the lower piping part CXC3030. 2ND I noticed air coming from one of my return lines. Can the air be related to the pin hole? or do I have 2 separate problems. Kindly advise, your help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Todd, air will come only from before the impeller, usually the pipe that screws into the pump, or a loose pump lid, or damaged or unlubed pump lid gasket, or a loose drain plug. The pinhole can be repaired with silicone or PVC glue. The gauge issue could be a broken gauge, does it go to zero when the pump turns off? Are the return side valves in the same position as last year? Are all the return plugs out of the wall returns, in the pool? Could also be time to replace the cartridges, they only last 2-5 years, depending on filter size and how much work they have to do.
I have cleaned my cartridge filter every 30 mins turn it on and the pressure keeps going up I don’t know what else to do ? We are starting it up for the summer it was green and had alge now it’s cloudy with alge I can’t keep the pump on to get my water clear because of the pressure ! What do I do !
Hi Marianne, remove the cartridge and run the filter without the cartridge, 24/7, for a day or two. Check the pH and lower it to 7.2, and then add shock chlorine, until the water turns blue-grey, with no hint of green. If you can vacuum the pool to waste, that will help to remove the settled solids that are clogging the filter. https://blog.intheswim.com/vacuuming-to-waste-a-how-to/ The cartridge may be choked with scale or solids that do not come out with a spray of the hose. Or oils could be clogging the pores. Try a cartridge filter cleaner, or soak in TSP to remove oils, then soak in a 10:1 water:muriatic acid solution, to remove scale.
Hi I am having the exact same problem – and my entire system is less then a month old with brand new sand. I have a variable rate pump which is rated for 25000 gallons and my pool is less than 15000 gallons. When on recirculate it runs perfectly – when I turn the sand filter on I have to run the pump at MAX speed to get any flow at all. I do have a waterfall but again its affected the same way.
HI Melissa, VS pumps do tend to run very slowly when they are on lower speeds, that is normal. The idea with a VS pump is to run it nearly constantly, but 80% on low speed, 20% on high speed. Most people will run the pump on low speed for 20-hrs per day, then high speed for 4-hours, for skimming, heating or running a pool cleaner, or the waterfall… It IS flowing on low-speed, it just seems like it’s not, or not doing much.
We have just shocked our above ground 24′ round pool, vacuumed and was beginning a back wash cycle, 0 measured PSI and checked psi on rinse, 0 as well. I have checked for debris in all baskets, all are clear of waste. We have a 250lb hayward sand filter. Sand was cleaned 2 seasons ago. No lines have leaks around clamps for any lines. Was going to try a sand filter cleaner… any other suggestions you may have? Thank you
Stephanie, put the backwash valve on recirculate or waste, and see if you can get water flowing. 0 psi generally means -0- flow, no water moving. If you do have water moving, but 0 psi on the gauge, the gauge may be broken, stuck or clogged. if you have -0- psi and zero flow or very low flow, it could be many things, such as a clogged filter or baskets, as you mention, or a clog in the pipe or an air leak causing the pump to lose prime, or a closed valve or plugs left in the wall – or common in springtime, a clogged pump impeller.
I have a 10×30 pool, I need a good filter and not work because the filter that brought the pool does not filter well
Hi, if you have the Intex or Bestway 10′ x 30″ pool, you likely have the 530 GPH pump/filter model. You could increase to the 1000 GPH model and see a big improvement. The 1500 GPH model would also be a good choice, but you also need to have adapters connect the larger hoses to the smaller wall port on your pool – or adapters to use the smaller hoses you currently have, with the larger 1500 system. Look at Intex Type B hose adapters (we don’t carry this item currently).
Hi! I have a Hayword Cartridge Filter that is putting way too much dirt and debris back into my pool all the time. I recently replaced all 4 cartridge filters. What is my next step in troubleshooting? Is there a common valve or manifold issue? Thank you!
Hi Ryan, on the Hayward Super Star Clear (assuming that’s your model), there is a bottom manifold, a plate with 4 stanchions that insert into the bottom of the cartridges, and a top closure plate that plugs the holes in the top of the filter. There is also an air relief tube, that connects to the bottom manifold. The manifold also connects into the exit elbow of the filter, for which there should be an o-ring to seal up. So, the debris that is passing thru, if it’s not coming from the holes in the cartridge pleats or end-caps, whould be coming from a crack in the manifold or closure plate, a missing air relief tube, missing outlet tube o-ring, or the cartridge assembly of manifold/carts/closure is not tightly together. Some cracks may be hard to see, but open-up larger under pressure, so you may have to look closely, in good light.
I have a Hayward sand filter that has a small crack around the pressure gauge. I had just replaced the gauge because the old one was full of water and not working. The new one is now filling up with water, and I’ve tried several types of water weld and such to repair the crack. The crack doesn’t leak now, but water is spraying out the front of the pressure gauge. Any suggestions?
Hi Anita, are you sure you are using a water pressure gauge? That sounds unusual, what you describe. If it’s a water gauge, I’d have to say … try again with another new pressure gauge. For the small cracks around the pressure gauge hole, which comes from too much (years) of Teflon tape, and overtightening, I have used SuperGlue effectively many times. Screw-in the gauge so the crack widens, squirt it full of superglue, and unscrew the gauge real quick. Remove all of the years of Teflon tape, and thread in lightly.
I’m a fairly new pool owner and I had a robotic vacuum before it broke so this maybe a dumb question but the pressure in my sand filter builds to about 28 psi. It causes my vacuum to stop and the return water to slow drastically. I backwash it to release the pressure then everything goes back to normal. This happens every 45 minutes to an hour. Its a brand new filter and vacuum. I replaced the diverter valve seals and the pump lid. What would be causing this? Is it normal? Repair company said everything is working fine when they looked at it but it seems odd. Thanks
HI Daniel, definitely not normal. I would suspect that the filter is clogged with greasy gunk (technical term), and would recommend trying to use a Sand Filter Cleaner. If that does not fix the problem, replace the filter sand – it is either worn-out, or not enough in there, or not actually ‘Pool Filter Sand’, aka #20 silica sand, graded to 0.50 mm in size. Or… the filter is too small for the pump size, as another possibility.
I have a Hayward sand filter that is leaking around the pressure gauge. There’s a small crack where the gauge screws in. Is there any way to fix this?
Hi Anita, YES! And it’s one of my favorite filter hacks! 🙂 Thread the gauge in, so that the crack opens up, then squirt it full of Super Glue, and then quickly unscrew the gauge and let the glue harden. The crack has to be open 1 mm or so, enough to allow the glue to get in there. Before threading the gauge back in, remove all of the years of Teflon tape or silicone, too much of which can cause the cracking problem to begin with… Clean the brass threads very well and wrap 3x counter clockwise, with new Teflon tape, then thread in carefully (not too deep). This fix has worked for me many times successfully. Also works for cracks around the valve inlet/outlet ports when the PVC fittings are overtightened, causing outward radiating cracks.
Why is the gauge filling with water? Is there supposed to be some type of seal or gasket?
If it’s coming from the filter, I’d say you need a new pressure gauge. If it’s coming from rain, can you reposition the gauge to not face the sky? Or use a backmount gauge instead of a bottom mount (or vice-vesa)? They are not supposed to fill with water, and it will ruin it, if it has not already.
New Hayward calve for sand filter , backwash won’t fill thank to clean sand ??? Old one did in about a minute, and recirculating works , waste is slow, and of coarse in filter it blows dirty sand filter crap because new valve isn’t working properly???? Help 😜
Hello Jim, is the valve installed correctly? See port labels PUMP (from pump) RETURN (to return), and WASTE. Sounds like you may have PUMP and RETURN reversed? If not, was the valve disassembled, and reassembled, with the footpad or rotor (aka diverter) in the wrong position? Or did you replace the entire valve, and did not open it up? Is the sand the same sand, or did you do a sand change? If so, is the sand labeled POOL FILTER SAND?
When I put my pump inbackwash it spits instead of a steady stream. Why is itdoing this?
Could be an air leak, on the suction side of the pump, drawing air in, instead of water, because of the increased pressure of a dirty filter. Or, it could be that the filter tank is so dirty that water is having a hard time getting thru, or instead of dirt, it could be calcification of the sand, or pockets of greasy gunk. I would try a Sand Filter Cleaner, and possibly sand replacement, if it has been awhile.
I have a C1200 Haywood C1200 Pool Filter system. I clean the filter cartridge regularly and replace it every 6 months.I just installed a new Unicel cartridge and the unit now shakes when the pump turns on. I was told it might be a bad cartridge so I exchanged it for a new one. It is still doing the same thing. Everything else appears to be in order. What is causing the vibration?
Not unusual for filter tanks to shudder or expand as the pump is turned on. Not sure why it would be doing it now, if not before… Is filter pressure different? Is the filter secured to the deck below? You could bolt the tank to the pad, using concrete lags.
Issue – Low water flow in Filter AND Recycle mode. Normal flow in Backwash AND Rinse mode. This is for 24 ft above ground pool. Pump and filter about 2 ft above the base and about 5 feet away.
Filter is only one year old. Took out the lateral assembly and rinsed off. Inspected for anything broken. Ran water from hose through it. Replaced with correct sand. Still not working correctly. The clear bulb for water quality is only half full. Could it be a faulty handle assembly?
I have not checked to the return line going back to the pool for obstruction yet and when weather is better will check that.
Tracy, the return line could be suspect, is the pressure high also? High filter pressure would indicate an obstruction or plugged return line, something after the impeller. Low filter pressure would indicate an obstruction before the impeller, or not enough back pressure after the filter (is the return eyeball fitting in place?). With the backwash and recycle working fine, that would rule out a clogged impeller or obstruction on the ‘suction side’, before the impeller. Interesting case, let us know what happens!
My husband replaced the backwash pull turn valve and when he did he put it on and I now have to turn it in a different direction then the original… thus it is on backwards…. but it still backwashes…. my question is since he did that when I vacuum the pool sand comes back in through the jets…. could that be because he put it on wrong position?
Hi Cheryl, it sounds like he may have installed a Push-Pull valve for DE filters, which operate in reverse of those valves used on sand filters. I’m not sure why the sand is coming thru the jets when vacuuming, is it actually sand grains, or is it fine dust? (which is somewhat normal for sand filters).
We are at our wits end! We have done everything to think of and our pressure still goes up to at least 30 within at most and hour and a half. We have opened and cleaned and re-DE’d so many times we can’t count. We even put in all new filter grids yesterday. The new grids did greatly impact the amount of suction and starting pressure with a new application of DE but again only lasted about an hour before we had to turn it back off due to increased pressure. We started with a very green pool and have shocked and green to cleaned and clear aid’d it as well. But without good and constant circulation it’s only getting us so far. The clarity is coming back slowly but no matter how clear it gets we are making no headway on the amount of time we can leave it running. Anyone have any suggestions?? We are so stuck!!
Eric, there must be a lot of dead algae and shock dust in the pool, and this is clogging the grids. Vacuuming to waste, could be helpful, to remove the solids on the floor of the pool. Also, be aware that 1-lb of DE powder is not 16 oz but 32 oz dry measure, and if you were not aware of this, you would need to double the amount of DE powder you are using. If any plumbing work was done, or if the multiport valve was disassembled, be sure that the in/out pipes and valve top assembly were both correctly re-installed.
I have a hayward sand filter. I have poor water flow on filter setting. It has great flow on recirculation. I have backwashed the filter several times, with good outflow, but this has not resolved the poor water flow on filter setting. Any help would be appreciated!
Hi Jason, I would first try a Sand Filter Cleaner, perhaps twice, to see if the cause is greasy or scaly gunk in the filter. If that doesn’t work so well, I would suggest replacing the Filter Sand, or if it has been many years since the sand was changed, you might just jump right to that, over time, sand can trap greasy solids, or become calcified (solidified), and the once sharp edges of the sand grains wear down, needing replacement. Inground filters that are properly sized can go 5-7 years, or up to 10 years for an oversized filter. Aboveground sand filters, which are typically very small, can need new sand every 2-3 years, or sooner in some cases.
I have not been able to get enough pressure from the skimmer to run my automatic pool vacuum. I noticed that my Cartridge Filter gauge is reading zero. I have replaced it, bled the air from the relief valve and opened the filter tank, etc. I don’t know why It’s not reading. It’s filtering the pool just fine and I have a steady flow through the pump. Help!
Hi Kevin, not sure if the cleaner is new, or it ran fine last year, but not this year? You may have a clogged pump impeller, filled with small debris or pebbles, which slows down flow, but can continue to pump. Also if you have a small air leak around the pipe coming into the pump, or the pump lid, and then connect a suction cleaner, it can cause more air to be drawn in. Or if the cleaner hose is not fully filled with water before connecting it, or if the cleaner hoses are not fully connected, or there are some tiny slits/splits in the hose.
Just finished filling pole and setting up sand filter, pump filters with good pressure with discharge into pool. When filter is in backwash water comes out at a good pace for a few seconds then starts blowing out some sand and water exiting the drain hose comes to a trickle, what is wrong?
Hi Greg, are the pipes coming into the valve correct? The port labeled PUMP should be connected to the pump and the one labeled RETURN is heading to the pool. If that’s OK, was the sand used labeled Pool Filter Sand on the bag? Is there too much sand in the tank? (check manual or tank label, use only listed amount). Is there a loose pump lid, low water level, or other problem allowing air into the pump?
We can’t get the filter lid off to clean the cartridge. It’s a Clean & Clear filter that uses a cartridge R173214. We have opened the air-release valve, but the filter lid is stuck tight.
HI, it may help to open up the pump lid too, to release any possible air lock. If that didn’t help, let me look here at the C&C…if you can remove the lock ring, but cannot separate the tank halves, I would insert a large flathead screwdriver between the tank halves and gently pry upwards. You may need to do it in a few spots, like a paint can lid, but it should come up. You can also whack it a few times with a rubber mallet, or tap it a few times with a steel hammer, which can help sometimes